I will use this thread to detail the process of swapping the stock non-touchscreen head unit from a 2014 Sport with the touch-screen model out of the EX-L.
I will include wiring diagrams for both, photos of both, and instructions on what fits and what has to be changed.
The first step to wiring up the new HU is figuring out what the hell it came from.
Actual part number is 39101-T3W-A830-M1 from a 2015 Honda Accord Hybrid
Lucky for me, the main 24 pin harness is identical.
The rest of the harnesses vary with being useful with the following differences:
Harness B isn't needed - it has audio I won't use (has sub out)
Harness C has HandsFreeLink and external AUX audio.
Harness D has HandsFreeLink
Harness E goes to the external FM Tuner - so I lose FM unless I adapt and feed my Alpine DVA-9861.
Harness F only has ground and power but the Navi model adds a few other cables.
Harness G has the lanewatch camera, and I need to check the harness against the base model because the harness includes the rear view camera.
Harness H is i-Mid and the same
Harness J is HandsFreeLink
Harness K is the USB port
I referenced several schematics to figure out the connections.
After comparing the schematics, it seems the only wire that I have to manually re-configure is the HFL steering wheel controls - assuming they will even work with the new HU directly since that wire routes to the HFL Controller on the premium model.
Don't mean to hijack this thread, but quick question... Does anybody know if that ex-l hu's subout mentioned in this unit would support a dedicated aftermarket sub amp? And if so, how would it compare in sound to an aftermarket hu?
I hate using LOCs.. i never get the bass I want when with em. I hooked an LOC to my boys bmw and it wasnt hitting certian lows like how it would in my pathfinder with a $150 amazon boss double din hu. I took my subout lines out of my amp coming from my aftermarket hu and connected them to his amp to test and we saw a huge difference in sound while playing the same song via aux cable from both cars. That experience turned me off from using anytype of hi-low converters and now I've got myself sitting with all my old hardware out my pathfinder but im hesitant to install without more knowledge how this will work.
It's not the LOC but the DSP and crossovers in the factory speaker signal.
I am also curious how the sub level outputs behave. I can test them for the group, but I won't personally use them in my system since I have the Alpine PXA-H800
Great project. I am more interesting in knowing how you will hook up after market amp with this audio. I believe you will be tapping into 24 pin wires . I want to see what wires you will pick. Pic will help a lot. I have posted some scheme on my other post . Also I am still kind of afraid to put after market amp with this audio. I went to audio express today to check their thoughts . He said even after unplugging anc will not deactivate it. First it does not make sense but now I am thinking might be possible because audio need conti input from sensor . If anc sensor are un plunged then audio might not produce good sound quality as it needs a functional anc. I am thinking of connecting after market amp directly to my smart phone . It is much easy and by pass every thing and still will produce quality sound . And if I want to sell this car after few years I will take out amp and speakers and this way I do not need to modify stock premium sound system.
So I am leaning to a different project where source of audio will be my smart phone which will provide feed to after maker amp. I will use some nice graphic app for my smart phone and stick it infront of the space ( where usb is ) . It will look like a 3rd screen
Thanks for you help
Great project. I am more interesting in knowing how you will hook up after market amp with this audio. I believe you will be tapping into 24 pin wires . I want to see what wires you will pick. Pic will help a lot.
Keep in mind what all I have going on. I will be taking the low level audio out into the AUX in on my Alpine PXA-H800. I don't have a factory amp so I will be adding RCA jacks on the low level cables coming out of the head unit. The H800 can handle balanced inputs.
I have posted some scheme on my other post . Also I am still kind of afraid to put after market amp with this audio. I went to audio express today to check their thoughts . He said even after unplugging anc will not deactivate it. First it does not make sense but now I am thinking might be possible because audio need conti input from sensor . If anc sensor are un plunged then audio might not produce good sound quality as it needs a functional anc. I am thinking of connecting after market amp directly to my smart phone . It is much easy and by pass every thing and still will produce quality sound . And if I want to sell this car after few years I will take out amp and speakers and this way I do not need to modify stock premium sound system.
So I am leaning to a different project where source of audio will be my smart phone which will provide feed to after maker amp. I will use some nice graphic app for my smart phone and stick it infront of the space ( where usb is ) . It will look like a 3rd screen
Thanks for you help
smart phones are low quality sources, so that's your call.
you don't need to unplug the HFL module, just unplug the microphones. that way you don't have cancellation issues. the ANC system just runs in parallel with the audio output. Removing the mics is an effective bypass.
i have high expectations for the premium head unit ran directly out to an amp.
So I was trying to read and pay attention, just noticed the unit you're using from an EX-L is just standard touchscreen without nav?
I'm going to assume the Nav version wouldn't work since it would need other connections that don't come standard in factory wiring harness for models without nav, gps antenna etc or it would be more work than its worth.
Regardless still is a great mod swapping out standard unit for touchscreen nav or not may have to take up this task later down the road.
You can see the schematic for a 2013 Nav unit and see the connections/pieces. The main addition would be the lower control unit that goes in place of the pocket, and the nav antenna and harness (which would be a grand)
seller on eBay. I haven't powered it up yet, the touchscreen models on 9th gen have a security code? the non-touchscreen models don't. i thought they stopped doing codes with 9th gen.
I had to combine A harness and F harness power and ground to get the unit turn on. And it does require a code. I have contacted the seller requesting the vehicle VIN so I can look it up with Honda.
From my experience with Civic's premium head unit (I did the same as what you are doing right now back in 2012) the sub out can be used for dedicated amp. Amp power is to be sent by turn-on wire on the main harness. It will output signal as long as it is not all the way to the front. The only 2 wires to be used are SUB+ and SUB-. The rest of them just leave open.
My question is...Why is the your main diagram (connector A) doesn't look anything like a Honda wiring on the radio? Usually a Honda wiring will have +12V and ground on one end and ILL/DIMMER on another end...Is it specific to this head unit?
Back then I was taking 2 pins out of a harness and insert them there. I have found that a 4-pin internal USB connector will work perfect on the pins and they are more secured.
All units have a code. It will register the VIN number when it is fresh out from factory so holding power button will register it. When changing to another car, it will need a code...when I bought a 2012 civic radio directly from Honda dealer, it actually comes with a radio card and it will register when I power up.
Seller got back to me today, apologized, and said he would get me the code Monday. He said his source for codes (i.e. VIN) wasn't available and he got busy.
I've been too busy to install till Tuesday anyway.
Have you had a chance to test the output to see how flat the frequency response is and how much volume control is usable? Do you still have access to all of the vehicle settings with this head unit?
I do have access to vehicle settings and menus, and locking preferences, lighting preferences, etc. are functional. Code only needed when battery is disconnected (not each time car tuns on).
I haven't done an RTA of the output yet but I can say that it's good and likely perfectly flat. It sounds really good, even at high volumes. Sounds as good as the Alpine HU in the pocket below. detailed testing to follow after vacation through the 22nd (maybe during vacation).
I need to resolve the missing HFL module and figure out the rear camera trigger, both solvable.
my modded unit sounds ok, nice to have no distortion but bummer to be stuck with the HPF and EQ.
The premium unit sounds perfect. I just soldered RCA jacks directly to the HU front outputs. It will be my daily use and the lower HU will just hang out for CD demos/competition due to the benefits of fiber optic.
Driving 10 hrs today to vacation for a week with family. I'll study the backup cam wiring a bit while on vacation. HFL requires the separate module, I need to source one with the harness included (wire cut off long enough to extend). I considered going back to stock for the camera and HFL but it sounds too good
I just ordered a salvage premium unit with touchscreen, harness and VIN out of a 2015 EX-L for $250 from a recycled parts dealer in the Great NorthWest. Also ordered the 39800-T2A-A01 Tuner Module for $125 (ouch).
KHA, I'm going to need some step-by-step cartoons or paint-by-number type stuff. Let me know what you need in exchange. Craft brewed IPA? Copper River salmon? Dungeness crabs? Utilikilt? Alpine CDE-HD149BT (NIB)?
You bring a lot of value to this board, my man. Thank you!
I just ordered a salvage premium unit with touchscreen, harness and VIN out of a 2015 EX-L for $250 from a recycled parts dealer in the Great NorthWest. Also ordered the 39800-T2A-A01 Tuner Module for $125 (ouch).
KHA, I'm going to need some step-by-step cartoons or paint-by-number type stuff. Let me know what you need in exchange. Craft brewed IPA? Copper River salmon? Dungeness crabs? Utilikilt? Alpine CDE-HD149BT (NIB)?
You bring a lot of value to this board, my man. Thank you!
I hear ya. FWIW, donor vehicle is 2015 EX-L Sedan (photo below).
So here's are the damages for those that are interested:
$100 - HFT unit 39770-T2A-A71 w/ intact harness
$150 - Audio unit 39101-T3W-A830-M1 w/ touchscreen & VIN
$100 - Harness plugs and ~6" of wire on back of Audio unit
$125 - Radio tuner unit 39800-T2A-A01 w/ harness
$475 - Total
Thought I was getting a steal on the HU at $150 until I asked for the harness plugs and wires and he added $100 saying they sell the harness parts all the time. I figured $250 was ok since they were going for $200-$360 on ebay, some with, some without plugs and wires.