Valve adjustment? - Drive Accord Honda Forums
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post #1 of 35 Old 11-12-2007, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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Valve adjustment?

How difficult is it to check valve clearance? My car has been ticking like crazy for the past 8000 miles. I have been to all three local stealers: two of them say they can hear it, one says its just the injectors, and none of them know what they are talking about.. I know i would have to take the IM off and the valve covers also, but after i get that far how difficult is it to use the feeler guages?? any info would be great
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post #2 of 35 Old 11-12-2007, 10:58 AM
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What year, etc.?

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post #3 of 35 Old 11-12-2007, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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Oh, sorry.. 2003 V6 6Speed 70,000 miles..
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post #4 of 35 Old 11-12-2007, 03:12 PM
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Oh, sorry.. 2003 V6 6Speed 70,000 miles..
Once you pull the covers check the rollers for the rocker arms. Some 03 and 04s have had the needle bearings come out of the rollers. Then the cams are destroyed in short order.

Also, I have not seen many low mileage J series make valve train noise. The only ones are what I mentioned above or ones that have been overrevved. Over revving even a little will cause the pistons to kiss the valves, some will keep running ok, but make noise. Others drop compression and run like crap

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post #5 of 35 Old 11-12-2007, 03:29 PM
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Normally you don't need to adjust hydraulic valves. Unless they are noisy. Part of that ticking noise does come from the injectors. That is another story if they never had any application of any injector cleaner (the stuff you put in the gas tank).

I did mine in late July. Big job since this was the first time I did something like that. Lots of studying and research. For that job you may want to get a hold of the Haynes repair manual. It explains everything in detail. However what you'll find out soon is that you'll spend half your time cleaning what you remove, like the intake manifold, the throttle body valve, the valve covers and all the bad oil from inside the valve train areas. Also you will need a new set of gaskets for the valve covers and a new gasket for the upper manifold base. Don't be fooled by the good condition of the removed old valve cover gaskets. They may look ok but compare to the bran new ones they aren't as soft. Better get the new ones in. Also, the back valve cover may be a bit tricky to take off since that stupid black rail with the spark plug wires isn't something I was looking forward removing.

Here is how my valve trains looked like when I first opened it up after 100k miles.





I think somewhere in this forum there is a PDF file that explains what to do. However to get to the valves you need to know a few basics of "turning the wrench". For example, disconnect the battery and relieve the fuel pressure before you remove the intake manifold (big blue relay on the driver side cabin, just above the fuse box behind the kick panel, pull it out and crank the engine a bit to get rid of the gas from the engine). Also, take off the spark plugs so that you can turn the engine from cylinder to cylinder easier as you go through the motions of adjusting the valves for each cylinder. Essential tool is a valve adjusting tool (Google it!) and feeler gauges. Get the feeler gauges that are bent or at least some that you can bent to get under there (not too much space there to work with!). Also a torque wrench since the manifold and the valve covers have torque specifications. You will find the intake valves tend to loosen and the exhaust valves tend to get tight over time.

So read up all you can before you start. Get the right tools, the right parts (new gaskets!) and book a good back massage because by the time you are done bending over the engine bay for hours at a time you will need it !

Hope this helps.
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post #6 of 35 Old 11-12-2007, 05:11 PM
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The inside looks very clean for 100k, Tony. You definatley haven't neglected her. I can take a guess and say that the clearences weren't that far off from spec, huh?

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post #7 of 35 Old 11-12-2007, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredsvt View Post
Once you pull the covers check the rollers for the rocker arms. Some 03 and 04s have had the needle bearings come out of the rollers. Then the cams are destroyed in short order.

Also, I have not seen many low mileage J series make valve train noise. The only ones are what I mentioned above or ones that have been overrevved. Over revving even a little will cause the pistons to kiss the valves, some will keep running ok, but make noise. Others drop compression and run like crap

Actually, that is my story.. haha.. i was at the track for the first time.. my tires were not hooking up at all and it was really getting to me. i ran against a little hatchback my first run and beat him, which i expected, but i only ran a 15.1. He wanted to run again so of course i did and i was paying more attention to how many car lengths were between us than i was at shifting.. i reached the top of third and was shifting to 4th when, !!!!!, hello second gear! Idle was horrible, but that was the only noticable difference until the check engine light came on. took it to the dealer the monday after, not telling them what had really happened. The adjuster came and knew what it was, hondacare declined coverage, and i am out $2,800. Expensive mistake, i know, but i now have all new exhaust valves and a new rear head.. haha.

Now my car is nothing like it was before, as far as noises. It ticks all the time.. follows the RPM's and is loudest when cold. Injector cleaner made no difference.. im running mobil1 synthetic that i change every 3500 miles. I am not sure what else to do besides check valve clearance and now the needle bearings..

The dealership who did the work wont even look at it again. I do understand its a full day worth of work, but when it sounds like S*** I figure they would at least be concerned. But who am i kidding, they have their money. They played it off twice in the same day by telling me it was the Purge valve solinoid and promising all noises were normal. I want to start doing all work myself but im still under that extended warranty so its kinda hard for me to pull away from the dealerships when things should be looked at or fixed for free.

Sorry for the long post
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post #8 of 35 Old 11-12-2007, 05:52 PM
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The inside looks very clean for 100k, Tony. You definatley haven't neglected her. I can take a guess and say that the clearences weren't that far off from spec, huh?
The exhaust somehow were tight down to around 0.006, half the recommended. The intake were all ok but still loosened up the bolts and with a screw driver and feeler gauge adjusted them all again to the recommended clearance. Cleaning all the dirty oil in there may be also a contributing factor in noise reduction.

In a month or so I'll open it up again since I am about to receive the Acura TL type S camshafts I ordered (plug and play they say). Assuming I find a place to work, since its getting cold in my garage. So everything will come off and checked again.

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....The dealership who did the work wont even look at it again....
Go to another dealership?
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post #9 of 35 Old 11-12-2007, 06:05 PM
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You'll think I'm crazy but the oil you use can make the engine louder (ticking) or softer even though everything is in correct parameters. Mobil 1 is known to make Honda engines tick & click but works well. Other brand names quiet the noise within 100 miles of changing oil.

Just a thought, you might want to change to 5W20 Pennzoil Platinum to see if it quiets things down. After all.....the cost is only an oil change and a filter. Try it. The worst? It still ticks excessively and you adjust the valves.
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post #10 of 35 Old 11-12-2007, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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Go to another dealership?

Tried already. No one else will touch it because they dont want to get involved with all the repairs the other dealer did. I have even called consumer relations and hondacare claims. If they open it up and find that nothing is wrong besides a need for adjustment then i will have to pay out of pocket for the labor.



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Just a thought, you might want to change to 5W20 Pennzoil Platinum to see if it quiets things down. After all.....the cost is only an oil change and a filter. Try it. The worst? It still ticks excessively and you adjust the valves.
Thanks for the info. ill def try that next oil change. cant hurt.
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post #11 of 35 Old 11-12-2007, 07:36 PM
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i wonder what the chances of it being wrist pins? trying to think of what else could make that noise after the over rev..

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post #12 of 35 Old 11-13-2007, 02:29 AM
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Yes, oil may help. If you don't want to open it up to clean/adjust.

You may want to try 30% Lucas Oil for 2-3 back to back oil changes (like one oil change every week for 2-3 weeks) and see if they go quiet. Then go back to the Honda 5w20. Also get into the habit of filling up with higher octane gas, as it is more clean... and get it on the highway for an hour or so.
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post #13 of 35 Old 11-13-2007, 08:01 AM
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In case you decide to tackle adjusting them yourself:
Attached Images
File Type: pdf 03 V6 valve adjust.pdf (67.4 KB, 493 views)

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post #14 of 35 Old 11-13-2007, 08:20 AM
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"Also get into the habit of filling up with higher octane gas, as it is more clean... and get it on the highway for an hour or so."[/QUOTE]

It also makes a big difference by using a Top Tier gasoline..like Shell etc. I just made the change and it was well worth it.
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post #15 of 35 Old 11-13-2007, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the info guys... Wow, 24 hours and about 12 responses... dont know why i was just lurking around here before.. thanks a lot!
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