Power door locks suddenly not working - Drive Accord Honda Forums
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post #1 of 49 Old 01-07-2009, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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Power door locks suddenly not working

So today I get home from work and in the usual routine I hit my lock button on my key and start walking away, only this time I noticed that my interior lights stayed on and didn't fade out. I walked back over to my car and hit the lock button again and still the lights stayed on. Hmmmmm. I hit the unlock button and opened my door and then closed it again thinking maybe the door didn't shut all the way the first time. Well it wasn't that because once again the interior lights stayed on when I hit the lock button. I noticed that the door lock stems were not down as far as usual. In fact they barely moved when I hit the lock or unlock button inside the car, although they did move slightly, just not enough to lock and shut off the interior light.

I can manually lock/unlock the doors with the key in the drivers door key hole or by manually pushing the door lock stem down on either driver or passenger side door. All other electical seems fine and when I push the drivers side lock stem down the passenger side goes down as well. I checked fuse for the power locks in the interior fuse panel and it's totally fine. The driving lights and interior lights flash like they should when I hit the lock/unlock button on the key but again the locks are barely moving/working.

Does this sound like it's a power door lock actuator gone bad? If so how difficult is it to replace? I looked online and I can get it from a local Honda dealer for $38 and change, so not too expensive. I've never had a reason to take the door panel off so it'll be new for me (for this car anyway). Any pointers, opinions or help would be greatly appreiciated! For what it's worth it's a 2003 V6 Coupe 6spd.

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post #2 of 49 Old 01-07-2009, 06:41 PM
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Have you tried manually unlock BOTH drover AND passenger doors and then use the remote to lock the doors?

If only the passenger lock goes down then you likely have a problem with just the driver side actuator, but if neither go down then perhaps it's time to change the battery in the remote consider your car is 5 or so years old.

Alternatively you can also try use the lock/unlock switch (not the lock stem itself) on the door panel to see if the lock mechanism works properly, if it does then again it points to the battery in the remote.

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post #3 of 49 Old 01-07-2009, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the quick response, Aviography.

I should have been more clear with my description. When I said I hit the lock/unlock button inside the car, what I meant is the lock/unlock button on the door panel. So in other words the locks don't lock with the remote lock button or the door panel lock button.

I'm pretty sure the remote battery is fine because the remote trunk button pops the trunk open fine and it activates the flashing indicator lights, it just seems the stems aren't moving up or down enough to lock or unlock the door unless I use the key in the key hole or manually push or pull the stems.

I just researched a Acura TL forum and it seems lots of people have had similar issues and it seems to be the actuator, that's why I suspect its that, but I'm not 100%.

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• AEM V2 CAI • UR Underdrive Pulley • J-SHIFT J-Pipe & Test-Pipe • 2.50" Mid-Pipe / 2.25" Y-Pipe • '03 Acura CL-S Mufflers
• TB Coolant Bypass • CompTech Short Shifter • Corsport Aluminum Shift Bushings • NRG Carbon Fiber Shift Knob
• Ingalls Stiffy ETD • Eibach Sportlines/HFP Struts • 17mm TL Rear Sway • 18x8 Konig Runaway • 235/40/18 Nexen N5000
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post #4 of 49 Old 01-07-2009, 06:56 PM
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Well then, you've narrowed it down pretty much to just the driver side, now you have to take the panel off to see if there is anything binding the mechanism, or if any part of the mechnism has popped off where it was suppose to be, and if there is voltage to the actuator connector, if there isn't any binding and 12 volts is getting to the connector then you can be 99.99% certain it's the actuator.

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post #5 of 49 Old 01-07-2009, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aviography View Post
Well then, you've narrowed it down pretty much to just the driver side, now you have to take the panel off to see if there is anything binding the mechanism, or if any part of the mechnism has popped off where it was suppose to be, and if there is voltage to the actuator connector, if there isn't any binding and 12 volts is getting to the connector then you can be 99.99% certain it's the actuator.
Yeah, I figured it was probably the actuator just from past threads I've read about the door locks not working, but I've also read about a loose or broken connection, so I guess the only way to find out is taking the door panel off. Any tips on not busting clips removing the door panel?

2003 Accord Coupe V6 6spd
• AEM V2 CAI • UR Underdrive Pulley • J-SHIFT J-Pipe & Test-Pipe • 2.50" Mid-Pipe / 2.25" Y-Pipe • '03 Acura CL-S Mufflers
• TB Coolant Bypass • CompTech Short Shifter • Corsport Aluminum Shift Bushings • NRG Carbon Fiber Shift Knob
• Ingalls Stiffy ETD • Eibach Sportlines/HFP Struts • 17mm TL Rear Sway • 18x8 Konig Runaway • 235/40/18 Nexen N5000
• Centric Drilled Rotors • DEPO Blackhouse Headlights • Xentec 5000k HIDs • Eagle Eyes LED Tail Lights • LED LP Light
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post #6 of 49 Old 01-07-2009, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone know if there's an actuator in both the driver's side and passenger's side door or only in the driver's side on a coupe?

2003 Accord Coupe V6 6spd
• AEM V2 CAI • UR Underdrive Pulley • J-SHIFT J-Pipe & Test-Pipe • 2.50" Mid-Pipe / 2.25" Y-Pipe • '03 Acura CL-S Mufflers
• TB Coolant Bypass • CompTech Short Shifter • Corsport Aluminum Shift Bushings • NRG Carbon Fiber Shift Knob
• Ingalls Stiffy ETD • Eibach Sportlines/HFP Struts • 17mm TL Rear Sway • 18x8 Konig Runaway • 235/40/18 Nexen N5000
• Centric Drilled Rotors • DEPO Blackhouse Headlights • Xentec 5000k HIDs • Eagle Eyes LED Tail Lights • LED LP Light
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post #7 of 49 Old 01-08-2009, 03:48 AM
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its a fuse that is in your panel on the drivers side...this happened to my 98' accord.. charged me like $25 to replace it at a dealership...had no clue back then..lol but if it was now i would probably do it..

too bad i dont have that accord no more.. BUT i got my new sexy onE!! lol

good luck with your problem

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post #8 of 49 Old 01-08-2009, 06:27 AM Thread Starter
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its a fuse that is in your panel on the drivers side...this happened to my 98' accord.. charged me like $25 to replace it at a dealership...had no clue back then..lol but if it was now i would probably do it..

too bad i dont have that accord no more.. BUT i got my new sexy onE!! lol

good luck with your problem
Already checked the fuse. It's not blown. Even switched it with another 20 just to be sure and still nothing.

Funny thing is this morning they work. I guess it's something that's going to be an on going work or not work issue until I get the time to get the door panel off to test the actuator.

2003 Accord Coupe V6 6spd
• AEM V2 CAI • UR Underdrive Pulley • J-SHIFT J-Pipe & Test-Pipe • 2.50" Mid-Pipe / 2.25" Y-Pipe • '03 Acura CL-S Mufflers
• TB Coolant Bypass • CompTech Short Shifter • Corsport Aluminum Shift Bushings • NRG Carbon Fiber Shift Knob
• Ingalls Stiffy ETD • Eibach Sportlines/HFP Struts • 17mm TL Rear Sway • 18x8 Konig Runaway • 235/40/18 Nexen N5000
• Centric Drilled Rotors • DEPO Blackhouse Headlights • Xentec 5000k HIDs • Eagle Eyes LED Tail Lights • LED LP Light
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post #9 of 49 Old 01-08-2009, 05:31 PM
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The door clips are petty easy to pop out by pulling on the door panel. Make sure you remove the door screws (one in the inner handle under the rubber pad) before you start yanking on it. Pull up the microfiche on majestic for the coupe and see if there are other screws, etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Accordian169 View Post
Yeah, I figured it was probably the actuator just from past threads I've read about the door locks not working, but I've also read about a loose or broken connection, so I guess the only way to find out is taking the door panel off. Any tips on not busting clips removing the door panel?

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post #10 of 49 Old 01-08-2009, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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2003 Accord Coupe V6 6spd
• AEM V2 CAI • UR Underdrive Pulley • J-SHIFT J-Pipe & Test-Pipe • 2.50" Mid-Pipe / 2.25" Y-Pipe • '03 Acura CL-S Mufflers
• TB Coolant Bypass • CompTech Short Shifter • Corsport Aluminum Shift Bushings • NRG Carbon Fiber Shift Knob
• Ingalls Stiffy ETD • Eibach Sportlines/HFP Struts • 17mm TL Rear Sway • 18x8 Konig Runaway • 235/40/18 Nexen N5000
• Centric Drilled Rotors • DEPO Blackhouse Headlights • Xentec 5000k HIDs • Eagle Eyes LED Tail Lights • LED LP Light
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post #11 of 49 Old 02-15-2009, 04:04 PM
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Same thing on my 04 accord. I can press lock and see the stem just barely try and go down for first try. But most the time now nothing. No noise or anything. Remote or Physical button inside the car.

Just been locking it manually with keyhole.

Accordian - How is it going with this? cheap easy fix?
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post #12 of 49 Old 02-16-2009, 11:01 AM
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The same thing happened to me, for a week my remote wouldn't lock my car or unlock them. After a week it started working again....good timing since the day the locks started working someone tried breaking into my car with me in it.
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post #13 of 49 Old 02-17-2009, 01:40 PM
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Same issue

Sounds like I have the same problem. The plunger on the drivers side will not work electronically at all. The remote and the switch will unlock the passenger side only. I cannot lock/unlock the drivers door unless I use the key.

My drivers side window switch is becoming erratic in behavior also. Sometimes it just doesn't wanna work, but will work after a few seconds of it failing... any thoughts?

Thanks, Trevor

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post #14 of 49 Old 07-12-2009, 04:14 PM
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Question

I am having the same issue

The remote battery is fine....when I try to lock and unlock from the door panel both my driver side and passenger side locks do not work.

I hear a faint "click" but nothing happens



If its the acutator can it affect both doors?

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post #15 of 49 Old 07-13-2009, 01:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Accordian169 View Post
Anyone know if there's an actuator in both the driver's side and passenger's side door or only in the driver's side on a coupe?
I have the same question


I do not understand how both locks stopped working simutaneously

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