Idler/Tensioner pulleys - Drive Accord Honda Forums
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post #1 of 28 Old 01-30-2011, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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Idler/Tensioner pulleys

One of the pulleys on my v6 was making a horrible noise on cold days. So I decided to change out both the tensioner pulley, idler pulley (kinda impossible to tell which one is squealing since they are so close), and serpentine belt while I was at it. I got the tensioner pulley off with no problem but the idler pulley bolt is too long to come out; it hits the frame. Can someone tell me how to change it, and a write up would be amazing...

Thanks ~ Josh.


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post #2 of 28 Old 01-30-2011, 05:54 PM
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Loosen sub frame & lower.

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post #3 of 28 Old 01-30-2011, 08:01 PM
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Take off the side mount and jack the engine up.

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post #4 of 28 Old 01-31-2011, 02:59 AM
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Doesnt the tensioner pulley assembly come off with two bolts? Once off you can remove the pulley from the assembly.

03 Accord LX I4 5spd, 230k miles.
with 19 HFP Wheels and Eibach pro spring kit (second set as the first set of rear springs rusted apart).
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post #5 of 28 Old 01-31-2011, 06:12 AM Thread Starter
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I may try jacking it up. Yeah, I have a haynes manual and it says there are two bolts but I could not figure out which two! The haynes manual is like half the size of every other haynes manual I own/have owned. It ****s, and there arent a whole lot of pictures.

Her name is Nikki and she runs like a banshee: 07 4dr Ex-L V6 6mt - Bronze

Gm Syncromesh Fm, TL-S sway bars, Ingalls torque damper, Stage 1 exhaust mod, Intake resonator delete, short shifter, RV-6 V3 j-pipe, RV-6 V3 PCD's, P&P intake runners, semi-ported/polished intake plenum with custom throttle body spacer, TL-S trans mount, 06 TL 5 spoke rims
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post #6 of 28 Old 01-31-2011, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilovemyvtx View Post
I may try jacking it up. Yeah, I have a haynes manual and it says there are two bolts but I could not figure out which two! The haynes manual is like half the size of every other haynes manual I own/have owned. It ****s, and there arent a whole lot of pictures.

Buy a real manual then! www.helminc.com for Honda manuals.

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post #7 of 28 Old 02-28-2011, 07:47 AM
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i changed the tensioner on my 7th gen accord i4 before, and i had no problems with it. now im planning to change it on my tl-s, but i looked at my engine and it looks like i may run into this problem too. how did you end up doing this? did you jack the engine up in order to get the required clearance?

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post #8 of 28 Old 02-28-2011, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I changed out the top pulley and belt only. The squeal hasn't come back so I said screw it on the bottom one... Let me know how you do it. haha.

Her name is Nikki and she runs like a banshee: 07 4dr Ex-L V6 6mt - Bronze

Gm Syncromesh Fm, TL-S sway bars, Ingalls torque damper, Stage 1 exhaust mod, Intake resonator delete, short shifter, RV-6 V3 j-pipe, RV-6 V3 PCD's, P&P intake runners, semi-ported/polished intake plenum with custom throttle body spacer, TL-S trans mount, 06 TL 5 spoke rims
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post #9 of 28 Old 02-28-2011, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
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Let me know how you do it. haha.
check out this thread i started over at acurazine. it might apply to you too.

http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=809834

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post #10 of 28 Old 03-13-2011, 02:11 PM
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just did the auto tensioner. it is true that the long bolt does not come out that way. there is in fact a small bolt on the bottom side(takes awhile to find). whole process took me < 1 hr and that includes removing the side motor mount

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post #11 of 28 Old 03-13-2011, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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Oh you did have to remove the mount? I could never find said bolt either. Man, that little tensioner sounds like a pain.

I'm glad my noise went away without me having to go through all of that.

Her name is Nikki and she runs like a banshee: 07 4dr Ex-L V6 6mt - Bronze

Gm Syncromesh Fm, TL-S sway bars, Ingalls torque damper, Stage 1 exhaust mod, Intake resonator delete, short shifter, RV-6 V3 j-pipe, RV-6 V3 PCD's, P&P intake runners, semi-ported/polished intake plenum with custom throttle body spacer, TL-S trans mount, 06 TL 5 spoke rims
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post #12 of 28 Old 03-13-2011, 08:05 PM
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i dont think i HAD to but it gives me a little more room, plus the side mount is so easy to move i might as well do it.

yea that bolt took me like 10 min feeling around the auto tensioner to find it, its tough because you cant see it, you can only feel for it. then you have to get a socket and short extension and then feel for it again(in a tight spot).

once u do it once, it'll be much easier the second time because u know where the hidden bolt is. however i dont think these things go out enough times for me to have to ever change this again.

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post #13 of 28 Old 07-27-2013, 06:09 PM
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Pulley Removal

[QUOTE=Ilovemyvtx;786430] Reply

2004 V6 Accord
I had the same whining noise coming from the pulley side of the engine. All rpms and operating temperatures. Used screwdriver to listen and alternator was the the strongest vibration whine.
I pulled alternator and took to get tested and it was okay and spins freely and quietly.
I picked up a replacement tension assembly. I see in your picture that the pulley cannot be removed without other methods mentioned. I removed the 12mm offset bolt from under the tension assembly and the whole thing came out pretty easily. New tension arm is alot stiffer and made it fun to re-install belt. Engine runs quiet and I am thankful to this forum.
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post #14 of 28 Old 12-24-2014, 10:47 AM
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whining sound

OK, I have been doing some research on this whining sound. I have a 2004 Accord and I changed the o rings because I was told that was the problem, that air was getting in the pump. So I still have the problem, now I will try changing the pulley tensioner. My question is how long can I drive it safely? My wife and kids are taking a trip and I cannot fix it until they get back. Is it safe?
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post #15 of 28 Old 12-24-2014, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGman1964 View Post
OK, I have been doing some research on this whining sound. I have a 2004 Accord and I changed the o rings because I was told that was the problem, that air was getting in the pump. So I still have the problem, now I will try changing the pulley tensioner. My question is how long can I drive it safely? My wife and kids are taking a trip and I cannot fix it until they get back. Is it safe?
Well you don't know what's causing it and we don't know if they are driving a few hours, or from Florida to Alaska. How can we tell you if it's safe? Rent a car if you're not sure.

Remove the serpentine belt and spin the pulleys by hand to see which feel rough. IF it's a pulley and it seizes, it will eat thru the belt. Once the serpentine belt snaps, she will lose power steering and the car will be instantly running off battery power till it dies (no alternator charging). If she keeps driving, it will overheat because the water pump will stop circulating coolant.

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