Rough Idle on "D" While Stopped? - Drive Accord Honda Forums
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post #1 of 18 Old 12-21-2011, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
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Rough Idle on "D" While Stopped?

Sup Guys,

I own a 06 Accord I4 automatic with 56K miles. As of recently i get a rough idle while the car is in Drive and im stopped, for example at a stop light. This is both when the car is cold and when its warm. When the car is in Park, Neutural or Reverse it doesnt feel rough. I recently replaced the transmission mount and gave it an oil change to no avail. Has anyone experienced this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

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post #2 of 18 Old 12-21-2011, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by toicy4ya View Post
Sup Guys,

I own a 06 Accord I4 automatic with 56K miles. As of recently i get a rough idle while the car is in Drive and im stopped, for example at a stop light. This is both when the car is cold and when its warm. When the car is in Park, Neutural or Reverse it doesnt feel rough. I recently replaced the transmission mount and gave it an oil change to no avail. Has anyone experienced this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
I have the same problem...It might be motor mount as well..I have an 07-i4 with 85k...
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post #3 of 18 Old 12-21-2011, 01:21 PM
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Try Seafoam-ing it.

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post #4 of 18 Old 12-21-2011, 04:51 PM
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Does it happen when your a/c compressor is on? I get some NVH when my a/c is on and my car is idling. Of course, my header may be to blame too.

I've heard of some A/T Accords having that issue, and remember reading somewhere that Honda replaced engine noise dampers on some cars.

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post #5 of 18 Old 12-21-2011, 05:44 PM
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May or may not help but go buy a can of Chevron Techron large enough for a 20 gallon fuel tank. Pour it in and go fill up. If it's just a matter of cleaning you'll feel a positive difference in 100 miles or less. The worst you could do is clean up your fuel system and injectors
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post #6 of 18 Old 12-21-2011, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toicy4ya View Post
Sup Guys,

I own a 06 Accord I4 automatic with 56K miles. As of recently i get a rough idle while the car is in Drive and im stopped, for example at a stop light. This is both when the car is cold and when its warm. When the car is in Park, Neutural or Reverse it doesnt feel rough. I recently replaced the transmission mount and gave it an oil change to no avail. Has anyone experienced this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Replace with new maybe larger BATTERY.
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post #7 of 18 Old 12-24-2011, 06:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toicy4ya View Post
Sup Guys,

I own a 06 Accord I4 automatic with 56K miles. As of recently i get a rough idle while the car is in Drive and im stopped, for example at a stop light. This is both when the car is cold and when its warm. When the car is in Park, Neutural or Reverse it doesnt feel rough. I recently replaced the transmission mount and gave it an oil change to no avail. Has anyone experienced this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Could be any number of things...did you get a CEL yet?
O2 sensor, Intake manifold leak, bad plug, bad wire, bad gas...

2006 Accord V6 AT ~ 80k Miles
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post #8 of 18 Old 12-26-2011, 11:19 AM
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They don't have plug wires.
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post #9 of 18 Old 12-26-2011, 12:31 PM
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If the defrost or a/c is on mine tends to run a little more rough at times and I only notice it when I am stopped at a light or something.

Honestly, I used to be able to notice it when I got gas from a lower quality station - like a off brand or something. (Maybe I was just imagining that haha, but I could tell from speedway, which I almost always get - to something like a circle K or Mom and Pop shop.) I can't notice this much more since I am about to hit 70k and shes gettin a little older now - but still runs awesome! - Your car may just be getting a little older, which will make it run less like new, it shouldn't be any major rough idling though...

Also, I had to replace a vacuum hose of some sort for the air for the engine which is when I REALLY noticed a hard idle when I came to a light, actually the engine stalled out a bunch of times because of this too. The hose/regulator or something like that was broke so the engine had problems regulating/filtering the amount of air that it took in and either had too much or too little when I was stopped.

Im sure you would know if it was a serious problem like the last one, but other than that I hope I provided some insight nonethless.




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post #10 of 18 Old 12-26-2011, 06:33 PM
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Wow.

You guys are funny.

The vibration is most likely from a worn out motor mount. Given the OPs symptoms, it seems to be the front torque motor mount.

NEVER Seafoam your car.
Do not use injector cleaner (both are a waste of money).
The battery has NOTHING to do with how the car idles.
If the AC compressor is on, the car will vibrate more because the is more of a load on the engine itself with the AC compressor running.
The transmission mount does not control vibrations in the car, this is mostly dampened by the front torque mount, as I stated previously.

BMBaccord- your problem was a leaky vacuum hose, which has nothing to do with the OPs issue.

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post #11 of 18 Old 12-27-2011, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegrouch View Post
Wow.

You guys are funny.

The vibration is most likely from a worn out motor mount. Given the OPs symptoms, it seems to be the front torque motor mount.

NEVER Seafoam your car.
Do not use injector cleaner (both are a waste of money).
The battery has NOTHING to do with how the car idles.
If the AC compressor is on, the car will vibrate more because the is more of a load on the engine itself with the AC compressor running.
The transmission mount does not control vibrations in the car, this is mostly dampened by the front torque mount, as I stated previously.

BMBaccord- your problem was a leaky vacuum hose, which has nothing to do with the OPs issue.
I have to disagree with you on some points. My brother is Honda master tech with over 30 years experience in shops, and when I have a question about the validity of a practice he will tell me his opinion on the subject. I only tell you that to give a frame of reference for my comments.

He is absolutely on board with using Techron, and I have experienced good results myself using it. I asked him about Seafoam a while back (and expected him to tell me not to use it) but he said that it can help with older high mileage cars, and even some other mechanics in the shop have used it with no ill effects. I've used it myself.

I'm not sure if a bad battery could cause a bad idle, but it CAN cause a car to quit running. I have experienced that firsthand.

As I stated earlier, I believe that Honda did a TSB on some automatics where vibration was an issue and the fix was to replace a NVH damper. I will try to find that info again. He could also be having one of a number of problems with the auto trans itself, which of course would mean a trip to the dealer to check out.

04' Accord LX sedan - I4, 5MT, satin silver metallic
K&N drop-in filter / deleted resonator & DIY intake Ceramic coated stainless D.C. Sports 4-2-1 header
Random Tech. converter
TSX intake mani / "Ported" injector base
Throttle body coolant bypass / PowerRev intake gasket
Powerslot front rotors / Skunk2 upper arms
20mm rear sway, 27mm front sway / '06 EX wheels
Megan EZ Street coilovers / Ingalls rear camber kit
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post #12 of 18 Old 12-27-2011, 07:45 AM
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03-04 L4 engine vibration in gear 04-024.

This is what I was thinking about. It pertains to the 03-04 Accords. Don't know if it would apply to the '06. Something to consider.

04' Accord LX sedan - I4, 5MT, satin silver metallic
K&N drop-in filter / deleted resonator & DIY intake Ceramic coated stainless D.C. Sports 4-2-1 header
Random Tech. converter
TSX intake mani / "Ported" injector base
Throttle body coolant bypass / PowerRev intake gasket
Powerslot front rotors / Skunk2 upper arms
20mm rear sway, 27mm front sway / '06 EX wheels
Megan EZ Street coilovers / Ingalls rear camber kit
6 speed tower strut bar
Comptech short shifter / Stainless TWM shift knob
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post #13 of 18 Old 12-27-2011, 03:13 PM
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I've seen seafoam destroy cars. Injector cleaner can help, but there is usually an underlying problem causing this issue. So it is actually better to figure out what is wrong with the car instead of throwing cleaners at it.

Of course a dead battery can cause a car to not run. But if the bad battery is causing the car to shut off, then it might actually be caused by the charging system. This would cause the battery to drain, eventually causing the car to shut off.
All generations of cars are different. Just because one car had a problems does not mean the next generation does too.

I was simply suggesting the first thing a mechanic would look at if they were fixing the car. I have worked at a shop for over 10 years and my father has over 40 years of experience.

So, to the OP I would recommend checking the motor mounts. It takes all of maybe a minute. And if that is the problem, then it is a simple fix. If not, then one thing is checked off as not being the problem. Makes sense to do first with how easy it is to check it.

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post #14 of 18 Old 12-27-2011, 04:17 PM
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I would probably say its the front engine mount. Not sure if in the I4 it is an active one like the V6. The V6 front engine mount has 2 chambers in it. When below 1000 RPM (I think) it opens a valve and with the help of the intake vacuum gets the liquid from the lower chamber to the upper chamber to ease vibration. Again, not sure if the 4-banger has the same type of front engine mount.

PS. Seafoam helps, but to a certain degree. What really helps is ethanol-free gasoline !!!! Once in a while I fill up with Shell 91 (up here in Canada), and the engine runs so smoothly its unbelievable.
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post #15 of 18 Old 12-27-2011, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegrouch View Post
I've seen seafoam destroy cars. Injector cleaner can help, but there is usually an underlying problem causing this issue. So it is actually better to figure out what is wrong with the car instead of throwing cleaners at it.

Of course a dead battery can cause a car to not run. But if the bad battery is causing the car to shut off, then it might actually be caused by the charging system. This would cause the battery to drain, eventually causing the car to shut off.
All generations of cars are different. Just because one car had a problems does not mean the next generation does too.

I was simply suggesting the first thing a mechanic would look at if they were fixing the car. I have worked at a shop for over 10 years and my father has over 40 years of experience.

So, to the OP I would recommend checking the motor mounts. It takes all of maybe a minute. And if that is the problem, then it is a simple fix. If not, then one thing is checked off as not being the problem. Makes sense to do first with how easy it is to check it.
Points taken. You could pour in something too fast into an engine and hydrolock it. And of course, vibration is not necessarily caused by a rough running engine. If the car is not stumbling or the idle is not bouncing around then I'd say something else is going on and cleaning won't help.

Aren't the automatics equipped with a vacuum assisted front mount?

04' Accord LX sedan - I4, 5MT, satin silver metallic
K&N drop-in filter / deleted resonator & DIY intake Ceramic coated stainless D.C. Sports 4-2-1 header
Random Tech. converter
TSX intake mani / "Ported" injector base
Throttle body coolant bypass / PowerRev intake gasket
Powerslot front rotors / Skunk2 upper arms
20mm rear sway, 27mm front sway / '06 EX wheels
Megan EZ Street coilovers / Ingalls rear camber kit
6 speed tower strut bar
Comptech short shifter / Stainless TWM shift knob
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