Intake without Ktune - Drive Accord Honda Forums
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post #1 of 20 Old 03-18-2017, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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Intake without Ktune

Did anyone notice a drop in power after installing a short ram intake without tuning via Ktune?

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post #2 of 20 Old 03-18-2017, 04:34 PM
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SRI aka sucking in hot engine-bay air.


'08 EX-L V6 Sedan
  • P2R Intake Manifold Spacer
  • Intake Resonator Delete
  • VCMTuner
  • JL 8W1 <=> Kicker CX300.1
  • Alpine KTP-445U
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post #3 of 20 Old 03-18-2017, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by WILLYumD View Post
SRI aka sucking in hot engine-bay air.
So it's better to switch back to stock intake huh?
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post #4 of 20 Old 03-18-2017, 05:41 PM
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That's the common trend I see.
Honda worked hard to design their intake.

Putting a cone filter in the engine bay will net you a beautiful growl, yes, but you'll likely LOSE power because the engine is getting hotter (read: less dense) air.

If you really wanted to put money down, invest in getting a KTuner.
If you read around this forum you'll see people swear by it, because it REALLY does something.
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'08 EX-L V6 Sedan
  • P2R Intake Manifold Spacer
  • Intake Resonator Delete
  • VCMTuner
  • JL 8W1 <=> Kicker CX300.1
  • Alpine KTP-445U
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post #5 of 20 Old 03-18-2017, 06:23 PM
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This has been beat to death...but if you search, you'll find a link to a 9th gen 6-6 coupe on the dyno, that picked up 10+HP by just cracking open the air box lid. Honda didn't design their intake for HP, they designed it to be QUIET. I data logged IAT (Intake Air Temperature) temps with a SRI and with the stock intake...in the dead of Summer, in humid VA. Guess what..once the car starts moving AT ALL the IAT temps drops with EITHER intake, the OEM intake does take a little bit longer to cool down.

If you installed a SRI and you feel the car is running worse, what makes you think that? Is it hesitating? Are you throwing any codes? Reason being - unless you're actually documenting with dyno runs, 0-60 runs, 1/4 mile runs etc - everything is guess work. I've been messing with cars for over 25 years and I can tell you from experience that I've done mods and SWORE it felt faster and it actually wasn't.
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post #6 of 20 Old 03-18-2017, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ctandc View Post
This has been beat to death...but if you search, you'll find a link to a 9th gen 6-6 coupe on the dyno, that picked up 10+HP by just cracking open the air box lid. Honda didn't design their intake for HP, they designed it to be QUIET. I data logged IAT (Intake Air Temperature) temps with a SRI and with the stock intake...in the dead of Summer, in humid VA. Guess what..once the car starts moving AT ALL the IAT temps drops with EITHER intake, the OEM intake does take a little bit longer to cool down.

If you installed a SRI and you feel the car is running worse, what makes you think that? Is it hesitating? Are you throwing any codes? Reason being - unless you're actually documenting with dyno runs, 0-60 runs, 1/4 mile runs etc - everything is guess work. I've been messing with cars for over 25 years and I can tell you from experience that I've done mods and SWORE it felt faster and it actually wasn't.
I feel like the 0-60 when entering the freeway is definitely laggier with a SRI. Like I have to really step on it
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post #7 of 20 Old 03-18-2017, 11:35 PM
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Actually listen to ctandc, I'm just spewing common convention, he's got experience and a sick build!

'08 EX-L V6 Sedan
  • P2R Intake Manifold Spacer
  • Intake Resonator Delete
  • VCMTuner
  • JL 8W1 <=> Kicker CX300.1
  • Alpine KTP-445U
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post #8 of 20 Old 03-19-2017, 04:47 AM
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A drop-in panel filter in an OEM airbox yields the same power gains as a cone filter SRI but avoids inhaling hot engine bay air. Plus a drop-in cost only $50 verses $200 for an SRI and fits right into place with no installation. If you want a few extra HP and don't care about sound this is a no brainer.

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2007 Accord Sedan EX-L w/Nav, V6-6MT (sold)
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post #9 of 20 Old 03-19-2017, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Baldeagle View Post
A drop-in panel filter in an OEM airbox yields the same power gains as a cone filter SRI but avoids inhaling hot engine bay air. Plus a drop-in cost only $50 verses $200 for an SRI and fits right into place with no installation. If you want a few extra HP and don't care about sound this is a no brainer.
which drop in filter do you recommend for 09 accord i4?
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post #10 of 20 Old 03-20-2017, 12:01 PM
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Randy! Long time no see! Did you ever get your o2 sensor issue squared away? How about your exhaust, did you ever finish your set-up? To answer your question, I like the K&N filter, but the AEM dryflow type is less hassle (no worries about fouling your MAF) There is empirical data to suggest that the stock type paper filter really does the very same job performance wise as all the expensive aftermarket types, but I still prefer the K&N because I don't have to replace it but every three years or so.

2008 EX sedan 2.4l, 3 pedals
Mods: Weapon R I Throttle, OE style lip spoiler, painted calipers, K&N drop in w/ resonator delete, Redline shift boot & armrest cover, Crosstour cluster, JDM style visors, retrofit headlights (morimoto h1 7.0) TL RSB well worth the wait
J2 CBE, DIY 9th gen short shifter, 15mm spacers (rear)
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post #11 of 20 Old 03-20-2017, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by boring 08 EX View Post
Randy! Long time no see! Did you ever get your o2 sensor issue squared away? How about your exhaust, did you ever finish your set-up? To answer your question, I like the K&N filter, but the AEM dryflow type is less hassle (no worries about fouling your MAF) There is empirical data to suggest that the stock type paper filter really does the very same job performance wise as all the expensive aftermarket types, but I still prefer the K&N because I don't have to replace it but every three years or so.
Yeah replaced the sensor and havent worked on the set up yet. How did you do a resonator delete on the drop in filter?
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post #12 of 20 Old 03-20-2017, 04:25 PM
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Driver's side front wheel well, there is an intake resonator between the bumper and the fender lining.

Remove the bumper, remove the bolts/rivets securing the resonator, put the bumper back.
(You don't have to remove the bumper, but it makes the process 100x easier.)

I did it and the sound is BEAUTIFUL when I put my foot down, but otherwise stock when I'm cruising.
Some say intake resonators are designed to smooth out the air going into your intake (as well as reduce intake noise), so I was worried it'd reduce performance, but my pulls are still the same--and with added sound.

'08 EX-L V6 Sedan
  • P2R Intake Manifold Spacer
  • Intake Resonator Delete
  • VCMTuner
  • JL 8W1 <=> Kicker CX300.1
  • Alpine KTP-445U
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post #13 of 20 Old 03-21-2017, 06:23 AM
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^^This! I also removed the plastic tubing that goes from the resonator assembly into the engine compartment, up behind the radiator ending in the little scoop that sits right at the top of the radiator near the hood shut line. All that plastic is there only to quiet the enchanting sound that a four cylinder Honda engine makes when you are caning it. Once that plastic gets heat soaked (especially in the summer) it will raise your intake air temps by a minimum of ten degrees. Deleting that stupid plastic tuba was the best free mod I have ever done on a car, well worth the half hour it took to accomplish.

2008 EX sedan 2.4l, 3 pedals
Mods: Weapon R I Throttle, OE style lip spoiler, painted calipers, K&N drop in w/ resonator delete, Redline shift boot & armrest cover, Crosstour cluster, JDM style visors, retrofit headlights (morimoto h1 7.0) TL RSB well worth the wait
J2 CBE, DIY 9th gen short shifter, 15mm spacers (rear)
Future: H&R springs, Koni yellow struts
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post #14 of 20 Old 03-21-2017, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by boring 08 EX View Post
^^This! I also removed the plastic tubing that goes from the resonator assembly into the engine compartment, up behind the radiator ending in the little scoop that sits right at the top of the radiator near the hood shut line. All that plastic is there only to quiet the enchanting sound that a four cylinder Honda engine makes when you are caning it. Once that plastic gets heat soaked (especially in the summer) it will raise your intake air temps by a minimum of ten degrees. Deleting that stupid plastic tuba was the best free mod I have ever done on a car, well worth the half hour it took to accomplish.
So you data logged IAT temps with that ducting in place? I did. In the heat of Summer and VA humidity. I data logged a cobbled together homemade SRI and the stock setup. The thread is here on DA. The OEM actually kept IAT temps a few degrees HIGHER than the SRI when you first take off. Other than that, as soon as air is flowing into the engine compartment, the IAT temps drops - immediately.

I've since data logged my current setup, which is a Takeda SRI, and I left the bottom half of the air box in place. It actually runs a few degrees cooler than the two setups I listed above.

Just wondering since you mentioned "minimum of 10 degrees" in your post.
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post #15 of 20 Old 03-21-2017, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Randi Ye View Post
I feel like the 0-60 when entering the freeway is definitely laggier with a SRI. Like I have to really step on it
I noted the comment about an issue you had with an O2 sensor / MAF?

What kind of SRI did you install?

If you aren't doing other performance modifications, then more than likely a drop in filter will do just fine. I would keep in mind that changing the OEM flow path of air entering the engine compartment could also change IAT temps and performance (bad or good - would need to be tested). Suffice to say, without actual data logging, anything else is just guess work.

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