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2008 accord sedan hesitation? Lag, choking?

21K views 39 replies 12 participants last post by  Asdfg0987 
#1 ·
So here's the deal. I am the second owner to this 2008 Honda Accord ex-l sedan and when I first got it it everything was great. I have owned it for almost 3 years. However, within the past year maybe a little more I started to feel a slight hesitation... it was so small I ignored it. Maybe bad gas or something. Three in some fuel injector cleaner and carried on. As time went by it got worse and worse. BUT, it only happens between first/second, second/third, third/fourth only if I'm lightly accelerating. It like chokes up and hesitates. It still goes but it lags. And the rpm needle doesn't glide upwards, it jumps a little, then a little more, then a little more. If I floor it the car hauls and I experience no lag whatsoever. But this hesitation problem is starting to get on my nerves. Maybe like 4-5 times as I'm driving on the road the car will rev and accelerate alone out of nowhere for a split second which freaks me out real quick but its over rather fast. No CEL which is puzzling me. I have changed spark plugs 2x and no oil can be seen leaked in there, I have changed the pvc, tried running out of gas and putting premium and fuel injector cleaner various times weeks in a row. Idk what it is. It idles perfectly. I need help this thing is starting to get on my last nerves. I can predeict exactly how and when it will hesitate that's how much it does it now. Thank you for your help guys :(
 
#6 ·
I would first change the plugs

See if that makes a difference. As complicated as these cars are they are not so bad.

With a hesitation issue I cannot see it being anything other than, plug(s), coil pack(s), throttle body, or the air sensor in front of the tb.

I would still first change plugs (you have the ex-l so u got a v6) which has the vcm issue and causes plugs to foul way faster than they typically do.

If that doesn't do it I would hook the car up to a scanner with live feedback and watch what the throttle position sensor is saying when you drive, and do the same with the air sensor.
 
#7 ·
I would suspect dirty fuel injectors, or low fuel pressure. The other cause could be a dirty throttle body and or MAF sensor. If you have an OBDII scanner take a look at the fuel trims and misfire counters.
 
#9 ·
I have changed the plugs 2x and it's funny you say that because it was a surprise to me at how burnt the tips were considering they were changed at around 25k each time. But hey, why not do it again. Might as well add it in with the other stuff you guys have suggested too. I'm going to try to borrow a OBDII scanner and hook it up see what I get and either tonight or tomorrow I will put some time apart to clean the MAF and TB, guess I really appreciate the feedback. My worst fear is the tranny is slipping and will give way soon but hopefully something smaller then that is the issue and I can fix it relatively cheap. Once again thanks for the feedback :-D
 
#10 ·
Crap, now that I read your entire original post (my bad) My money is on the trans.

Same thing happened to me with my previous automatic Acura cls.

I'd try changing the trans fluid and see if it changes anything. If it does u found the culprit
 
#11 ·
Start from the cheap stuff.

I'd say the cheapest is a bottle of MAF cleaner and throttle body cleaner, so check the MAF and throttle body first to see if they are dirty.

You can then check the (presumably auto) trans fluid. If it is a brown colour or worse, black colour, change the fluid immediately. The procedure is similar to an engine oil change, so it shouldn't be too difficult.

If these are fine, then check the spark plugs. Your car shouldn't need a spark plug change yet, but anything is possible. Also check the coil packs to make sure the connection is good.

(Yeah, I wrote this on my phone. Wow.)
 
#12 ·
So I cleaned the MAF sensor and I cleaned the throttle body. The MAF looked clean but the throttle body was pretty dirty. Still, no real change. The car vibrates/hesitated 1st going into second then chokes a bit 2nd into 3rd then a lighter jump/lag 3Rd into 4th then it's all good after that. Only if I do it light/regular pressure on pedal. If I floor it everything changes smooth and it hauls. This crap is starting to irk me bad. Tm I will check trans fluid and spark plugs and change if needed. Smfh thanks guys, keep the thoughts coming and I will keep you posted :/
 
#13 ·
I assume you took the throttle body off to clean it. The other thing that can cause similar issues to yours is a clogged EGR system.
 
#15 ·
With an automatic transmission, If the rpms go up right before they go back down that is called 'flare' which is textbook transmission engagement issues. You really should buy the tech manual and start reading. There is a Massive troubleshooting section you should look into. I read most of it trying to find my problem and nothing worked and I never tried the ecu.

That exact thing you are describing happened to my cls on the 3rd rebuild. For whatever reason under normal load the rpms would jump 2-500 before being brought back down. We looked at the tb, the tps, all the transmission sensors and pressur switches. Nothing.

So I decided to live with it until one day I floored it in 2nd gear and the car said it shifted to 1st gear, rpms skyrocketed and the car didn't accelerate at all. At that point I knew the issue was just going to get worse.

The ONLY thing I never tried was a new ecu. Which is what my mechanic told me to do. But I had dropped so much money into that car I was so fet up with everything I right then and there started looking for a new car. I parted the car out and the rest is history.

One thing I will say is, it's possible getting Ktuner could alleviate your symptoms by playing around with fuel cut and tip-in fuel parameters. It that would likely be covering up a real issue.

The way I see it, if the car drives fine under WOT, there's some sort of electronic issue.mif it were mechanical, driving faster/harder would just present the issue even more.
 
#16 · (Edited by Moderator)
Yeah I took the tb out and cleaned it thouroughly. And damn, that kinda sucks to know that. That's exactly what happens. It accelerates but it "flares" upwards in increments of 300-500 rpm about 3 times then smooths out but by then it shifts into the next gear etc. I will look into that manual, I'm pretty pissed nothing is working. I just hope the tranny don't go anytime soon. I have always owned hondas and I must admit this experience is making me sketchy about newer hondas :(

Will changing the fuel filter help? Maybe going to dealership and updating or doing something to the ECU?
 
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#18 ·
Fuel filter is typically considered a lifetime item on these cars. That said, if the fuel you get is not very good for whatever reason, it can clog up. Get the fuel system tested before deciding if you should replace it.

Dealership can check your ECU by hooking up a HDS, but that costs a bit of money just for them to hook up the HDS and check.

Did you check and try all the cheaper options? Automatic transmissions are pretty good on 8th Gen Accords. Nothing to be afraid of. They are not like the ones on the early 7th Gens.





(Yeah, I wrote this on my phone. Wow.)
 
#17 ·
yea, that's why i went with manual transmission..

maybe snap a video of whats happening and post it up, that may help other members chime in. its always better to eliminate as many variables when trying to explain a problem to another person. the more they can experience the issue the better feedback people can give.
 
#20 ·
Over the course of this problem I have changed the spark plugs, the air filter, the pcv, put fuel injector cleaner in it, ran only too if the line gas, cleaned MAF and TB. I have tried doing all the cheap things first. Tommorrow I will try to put up a video. My cousin recommended me this guy who knows all about transmissions (his specialty?) and he said he'll give me the answer right then and there. This will probably be Monday though. Till then, idk what else to do. It's starting to really irk me though lol but as long as it runs I guess
 
#23 · (Edited by Moderator)
I don't see where you said the transmission fluid has been changed. I just bought an my Accord, one owner and 70k miles. The transmission was a little slow to engage when I shifted reverse to drive. I changed the fluid twice and she shifts like new again...

I didn't know there would be the lack of telltale signs of imminent problems.

Oh there are a few:
Warning Signs That It?s Time for a Honda Transmission Repair - Mr. Clutch
Honda Automatic Transmission Failure-MDH Motors | MDH MOTORS

Damn, need to do that ATF drain and flushes soon.
Those are good links with good info and I agree with the MDH mechanic when he said the transmission fluid should changed very 12k-15k miles. A gallon of Valvoline MaxLife is $18 at Wally and it meets or exceeds Honda Specs. It's easier than an oil change and cheap insurance.
I use it in my Lexus/Toyota vehicles and will continue using it in my Honda.
 
#24 ·
I just checked the transmission fluid and it's still pinkish/red and looks clear and doesn't smell burnt or anything. I'm going to drain and change it though just in case I guess. I talked to a mechanic and he said it sounded like 90% chance the tranny is going. He hasn't actually seen or driven the car he just told me that from what I explained. Sucks though I wasn't expecting a Honda tranny to go like this with 76k on it smh :(
 
#25 ·
This is only my opinion and my experience but cars with 60k plus miles tend to operate better with new transmission fluid.

Also, the fluid on the dipstick can be deceiving, but it is a different story when you drain it into a clear cup and compare it to new fluid.

All three samples are from my cars with 60k-70k miles, in this order,
Trans Am
Lexus SC430
Accord

As you can see, they look the same...it looks bad but if you put it on a dipstick, it looks red
 

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#26 ·
Excellent advice here.....I would point out that your automatic transmission fluid drain plug is magnetized....when the fluid is drained (about 3 quarts will come out), take the drain plug and wipe it on a clean white napkin and post a picture here. You will get a minor amount of metal "dust" on the plug- but if there is a lot (members here can judge) that could be telling.

I may sound like a spaz here, but I tell anyone getting a used car to change all the fluids. I've seen 1st owner/idiots take their 30,000 mile Accord to Firestone and get new "lowest quality" 15,000 mile spark plugs, transmission power flushes with solvents left in, and Lord knows what kind of "Lowest Bidder" coolant "safe for all cars ever made or will be made".
 
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#27 ·
So true and +1
Here is the magnet from my new to Accord, I also purchased a Honda Transmission plug and installed it in my Trans Am pan so I could easily drain the fluid on a regular interval and to collect the metallic particles.
 

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#28 ·
Thanks guys, I was actually looking at videos today and I hope when I take that screw off I won't see a crazy amount of metal particles on it. I am gonna go to Wally World and buy some trans fluid to change it, some rislone transmission fix, and some rislone fuel injector cleaner and see what happens. If nothing happens I will just take it to the mechanic and let him tell me once and for all what the problem is. The guys trustworthy and he gives way better prices then anyone I know. I will learn to accept my fate it just sucks I used to be a strong Honda advocate and now idk smh -_- but I will keep you guys posted, thank you for all the information!!
 
#29 ·
Please hold off on the transmission additive for now. Just change it at least twice, several folks on here like the three change method. Which is change, drive for 10-20 miles change again. Each time you should drain 3.5qts on a V6 transmission.
Again, don't add the rislone...
 
#30 · (Edited by Moderator)
Yeah I'm actually gonna use Honda ATF and give it a shot. Imma drain and fill 3x. At 10.99 a quart I really hope it works but I can't lie I have my doubts. I will keep you guys posted thank you

I forgot to mention. When I put into D3 D2 or D1 I don't feel or notince any hesitation or vibration. Idk what that can mean but I am literally about to do the ATF change 3x and if that don't work then idk. Wish me luck


UPDATE:

So I did the ATF flush or 3x drain and fill whatever you wanna call it. And to my surprise, my car is shifting so much smoother. Idk if it's in my head or what but it doesn't hesitate, jerk, the rpms don't bounce up, it's just a smooth ride now. I really can't believe the results I got. Idk how long this smooth feeling is gonna lastbbut I am pretty much in shock at the difference in the transmission I feel.

Check it out. And to think that when I check the TF dipstick it came out nice and pink. Boy was I wrong
 

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#31 ·
Bravo, I am so happy the fluid changes did the trick!!!

Happy motoring! ;-)
 
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