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HOW I CURED MY 2010 ACCORD LXP from using oil

86K views 158 replies 42 participants last post by  Rpmalerba 
#1 ·
To me it was as unHonda like as can be. at 78000 miles my Accord started using a quart every 1000 miles.
I thought it has to be a plugged egr - pvc - emission tube - torn vacuum line.
Then I read about all these other poor slobs getting their 2.4 Accord motors getting rebuild by Honda that used
a quart every 600 miles. I spoke to the Honda Dealer, a quart every 1000 is not covered by extended warrenty..Plus. They would need the car 3 days to test etc etc.
I am not a quitter. I came to the conclusion after hours online, that the piston rings get cruded up and stop spinning.
since I would use a quart 1000-1200 miles , i figured i have one stuck oil ring. Not to be confused with the compression rings. The bigger oil burners have 2 pistons with stuck oil rings.
How to cure ?
Pathetically Simple and cheap.
I pulled the plugs, put a shot glass of marvel Mystery Oil in each Cly. let sit for 18 hours ( most guys on the web suggest 2-3 days). Then I watched it. the oil didnt seem to move on the stick for 600 miles. I changed the oil, this time
leaving out a pint of oil and putting Marvel in with the Valvoline 100% Synthetic ( always used Mobil One until now ).
I am thrilled to report after 700 miles , the oil is top of the full mark. I keep thinking all these engine rebuilds were needlessly done wihen
it is just a stuck ring or two.
 
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#2 ·
Well, even Japanese cars can have quirks like this. My Corolla also burns a lot of oil, and no, it's not from the old age. Corollas and Camrys from that time period all had design flaws and their oil rings would get stuck. Might try putting Seafoam in my Corolla then.

And with MM oil, Seafoam and the like, I don't think you should count on them to fix everything. It should just be treated as "This might work" solution, not as a proper fix. It's a bit of hit or miss with these products. They can do great things, but that's no guarantee they will fix anything.
 
#5 ·
That's great info! I have a Corolla of the same year which also burns oil. Might be worth a shot then.

Wonder if Seafoam will do the same thing. MMO is actually quite rare in Canada, while Seafoam can be purchased easily at the local Canadian Tires.
 
#7 ·
Kerosene trick renewed ! Sometimes the "old school" method solves many problems.
 
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#8 ·
Same thing can be done using sea foam. The problem is oil gunk clogging the oil return holes behind the oil control rings on the pistons' head. Soaking it with cleaning fluid loosen and clean up that hard oil gunk. Now oil returns back in, no more oil burning. You have to crank the engine with the plugs out to evacuate that fluid before putting everything back together.
 
#9 ·
Good to hear. I've got an 08' Chrysler Aspen that's using a quart every 600-800 miles. As usual, Chrysler techs say this is normal. I disagree. I suspect it to be rings as well. Might have to give this a shot.
 
#10 ·
I went through this same damned thing with my wife's '01 Toyota Celica when we first started dating- the 1ZZ-FE motors are infamous for having stuck rings.

Removed the plugs, poured in Seafoam, let sit for a full day, cranked everything over with the plugs removed to remove the seafoam, put the plugs back in it, ran it around the block HARD a few times with the old plugs and oil, then gave it an oil change and fresh plugs.

Went from using a quart a week to less than a quart between 3,500 mile oil changes.
 
#11 ·
Old skool is Bon Ami... poor it down the throat while engine runs. Takes a whole can. Part of GM tech of the 50s. Ha! ? was given that info from an old mechanic back in the 80s. They dont make Bon Ami like they use to, so it probably wont do good for any engine.

If you want fast results MEK will break through build up poor 1/4 cup into each cylinder and wait 4 hrs. Then crank with the plugs out for a wee bit. Reinstall the plugs and your rings shoould be free to spin.
 
#14 ·
Had never heard of zMax so I looked it up. Here's what they say on their web site:

From zMax Web Site said:
zMAX does not replace your regular oil, and using zMAX will not overfill your normal oil level because it soaks into metal.
Really?
 
#17 ·
yea I saw an infomercial on Zmax WAY WY back and laughed at the whole thing.

Then I did some research (ten years ago) and decided to do it. Sure enough it worked. Engine was more quiet and burned a bit less oil (my oil car murdered oil).

On my last car (my acura cl-s auto) it did not burn a drop of oil so i never used Z Max. But with the car I have now, with it burning oil. I had to try. And sure enough, + results once again.

If you look at similar product they are all about lubrication. Z Max works on a different level soaking into the metal which is how it gives such positive results. So from now on, every oil change I put in a bottle of the engine formula and all is good.
 
#18 ·
#20 ·
soaking into metal seems impossible. maybe it counts filling in hair line depresions and such. I never used ZMax but the
debate that came up in this additive conversation sparked me to research it. here is a copy and paste from Carbibles.com

on 20th March 2003, Speedway Motorsports Inc. (TRK) and Oil-Chem Research Corp., the manufacturers of zMax, announced that they had settled their dispute with the FTC. The Concord, North Carolina-based Speedway said that the dispute was concerning the advertising of zMAX Power System. Marylaurel E. Wilks, VP and general counsel said, "We at Speedway Motorsports are very pleased that the staff of the Federal Trade Commission has specifically confirmed that Oil-Chem can continue to make the following claims in its advertising and promotion of zMAX:".
zMAX soaks into metal,
zMAX reduces friction,
zMAX increases horsepower,
zMAX dissipates engine heat,
zMAX helps to improve or restore gas mileage and reduce emissions in older cars, by virtue of reducing engine deposits,
zMAX helps to maintain gas mileage and emissions in newer cars, by virtue of reducing engine deposits,
zMAX helps to reduce engine wear on engine valve-stems and guides and piston rings and skirts, by virtue of reducing engine deposits,
zMAX helps to extend engine life, by virtue of reducing engine deposits.
 
#21 ·
soaking into metal seems impossible. maybe it counts filling in hair line depresions and such.

I went ahead and bought a bottle today at the local Canadian Tires as @08 v6/6 has given some helpful info. I mean, I have nothing to lose on the Corolla. It burns a crap ton of oil, so things cannot really get worse on that car.

Anyways, you are absolutely right about the definition of "soaking into metal". It fills out the tiny cracks in the metal.


I also poured a bit of Seafoam into the 4 cylinders of the Corolla. I will see how the combined efforts of the two products turn out.
 
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#24 ·
I understand it won't completely fix the problem. That's why I said nobody should expect it to 100% fix a problem in the first reply.

All I want is a reduction in oil consumption. You haven't seen the spark plugs I pulled out today. It's all fouled up, and I just changed them like 1600 km(1000 miles) ago! Not good. Like CGumina said before, a lot of 1ZZ-FE engines have engine oil consumption issues.

And you seem to do research on the stuff you buy.:thmsup: Usually, I don't buy oil and fuel additives unless I see some proofs. ChrisFix did 2 videos on Seafoam, and that's why I trust it. I think I will take your words for the zMax.

I will definitely keep an eye on the oil level. I typically check it in the gas station when I get gas. I think it burns about a quart/litre every 500 km/310 miles(40 litres/10.5 gallons of gas).

As for the kerosene trick, I heard kerosene can eat up all the seals in the engine, and that's why it shouldn't be attempted.

If I ever need to soak the cylinders on my Accord(transverse V6), I will just use the ramp of my driveway. A longitudinal V8 engine might be trickier since you will have to park it sideways... As for a horizontal engine, yeah I've got nothing...:dunno:
 
#25 ·
Your copy and paste from some website is a partial truth and that, in my book, is a lie (YOU are not lying, but we should print the whole truth)! Many car forums have that same writing pasted in it over and over again.....hmmm?....the lawsuit was settled only when zmax showed it won't HARM an engine, not that it has a single benefit.

Zmax paid out $1 million....

Here is the MSDS sheet: 99% mineral oil.

Snake oil....

http://www.zmax.com/documents/msds_102_engine.pdf

Yes, you get the same benefit from mineral oil.
 
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#26 ·
Wow this thread took off with alotta old skool ideas and some snake oil waste of time.

The only additive I ever used, that worked, was engine restore, it fills the micro scratches and cracks. This was back when my friends and I were young and could only afford used high mileage vehicles. The only difference between the 4 cylinder, 6 cylinder, and 8 cylinder version was the amount. If your oil burning issue was extreme we'd go 2 sizes up, and so forth.

Now for non high mileage cars, the easiest way to make sure you don't run into stuck rings and dirty engines is to only run top tier fuel - Home | Top Tier Gas

Next, along with top tier fuel, is to run an oil that is high on lubricating additives, and anti wear additives with of course a great oil filter. Cars now a days go 7,500 - 10,000 miles between oil changes, why not spend that extra $20 per oil change to make sure your baby is getting the best?
In my 09 Accord 6-6, I run Amsoil signature series 5w-20, I buy it by the 4 gallon case to get the best price. Match that with Purolator pure 1 oil filter and it comes out to around $55 an oil change, IF you do it yourself.

Lastly is a quality air filter, ANY aftermarket air filter that "out flows the stock air filter" also allows more dirt and grime to pass through. ACDelco always does good during tests and is the best on the last test I saw done.
 
#27 ·
I only used Seafoam and MMO once on my Accord when I first bought it. Now I don't use any additives on the Accord. I know modern engines are better and really don't need additives if they don't have any issues.

I use Pennzoil Platinum Ultra and Mobil1 Long Life filter on my Accord. Good stuff. I do use a dry aftermarket filter, but it's mostly because it's reusable and it filters almost as well as a stock one.

As for the Corolla... Well, at least 2 people here tried the Seafoam trick in similar engines(Camry and Celica) and it worked for them, so there is that. Seafoam is NOT snake oil if you look it up, but it's just pointless to put it in a newer engine that's not having issues.
 
#31 ·
okay, so, after reading through this thread, I'm still curious about this process and would appreciate some clarification or corrections on any of my misunderstanding:


  1. Spark plugs are removed
  2. MMO (kerosene, or whatever solvent) is poured into the top of the cylinder
  3. Enough solvent has to be poured in to coat the ring's surface area so quantities may vary depending on V6 or i4
  4. After (x) amount of time, crank the engine to flush the solvent out through the spark plug openings (doesn't this make a mess? What is done to prevent the stuff from going all over the place?
  5. Reinstall plugs, start car, and drive WOT for a bit to burn off any remaining solvent
  6. change plugs and oil, ta dah!

I'm most curious about what is done at Step #4...thanks!
 
#33 ·
Yeah that's what you do. I didn't change my oil, though, as I have just got it changed weeks ago on the Corolla.

Step 4 is done so there isn't too much cleaning agent in the cylinder, as it can cause misfiring or even hydrolocking if there is enough liquid in there. It kind of made a mess in my case, but most of the stuff will be gasoline so it evaporates rather quickly anyways. Also just don't really care about the mess on the Corolla anyways as the engine block is already kinda dirty. Just make sure you open the garage door if there is a mess.

Seafoam is a pretty good solvent so the goal is to just hope it can soak into the stuck rings, dissolve the gunk and free them.
 
#35 ·
I read that article about the Zmax... not very happy.

On the other hand I'm curious why I does seem to do my engine some good.

So maybe I should just buy mineral oil and toss it in the engine. LOL

the real fix is to pull the engine and get new high compression pistons put in and bore the block. BUT i wanna get me a house first so until then I'll stick with the band-aid fix
 
#36 ·
I'd personally like to bore it out to a 4.0 if that's at all possible with the factory block.

There's no replacement for displacement, as the saying goes. ^_^
 
#39 ·
So I guess I will start monitoring the oil level next fill-up, which will be soon as the Corolla is hitting the E on the fuel gauge.

For whatever reason, the new PCV valve I put on a while ago became loose and disconnected with the rubber gasket.:headbash: My cabin smelled like engine oil for a good while when I am idling in traffic and I couldn't figure out why. I have no idea how that happened as I made sure I connected everything firmly when I did the PCV valve. I bought another gasket(the old one was destroyed when I was trying to retrieve it from inside the engine), made extra sure everything is connected firmly this time around, and sure enough, my cabin smells much better at idle.

I think that might have contributed to the oil loss a bit as I essentially had no PCV for a while and the oil vapor may have escaped from the unseated gasket. A quite dumb mistake to be honest. I will just fill up the gas and oil at the same time, monitor the oil level and report back.
 
#42 ·
Another component worth checking is the PCV valve. If that is clogged, you may have oil consumption issue as well, as the blow-by gas will have nowhere to go and push the oil into the combustion chambers.

Sent via MHA-L29. Whatever.
 
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#45 ·
I plan on replacing my PCV valve (after 102,000 miles) but, you know what, it seems to be impossible to find a HONDA DEALER that has one in stock. Had my B14 service performed Monday. While there, I went to the parts desk to get my spark plugs and a PCV valve. The guy said they would need to order the valve. Same thing at the other Honda dealer in town. WTF. Can't even find it in the Honda ePartsStore. Also I'm sure you guys who have looked at that website have noticed the Honda parts drawings are pathetic, quality-wise.
 
#43 ·
Update: my Corolla is still an oil-burning piece of crap...

Well, I am selling it soon anyways. It was worth a try, and nothing of value was lost.
 
#44 ·
Running a high quality oil and oil filter will help prevent any oil consumption issues too. A high quality oil not only protects but also cleans deposits.

I only use top tier fuel.

I must add that I feel Chevron is one of the best. In my area there are Shells and Valeros too and I've used any of the 3 depending on where I was. Never really paid attention to it, cuz they'll all top teir, until I started getting code P0138 & P0139 after roughly 100 miles after filling up, I try to fill up when I have 1/2 tank and never let it go below 1/4 tank. I gotta add that I have PCDs installed with the de foulers, so this wouldn't have been noticed if I had the factory pre cats on. Anyway, once I fill up the CEL light would shut off shortly after. Realizing I was near to doing a tune up anyway I didn't pay any mind to it. Parts were ordered and I was just waiting till they arrived and I had a free weekend. Ok now, I filled up at Chevron and the light never came on, needed gas again and I was near Chevron so filled her up there again, still no CEL. Next I filled up at Shell or Valero, I can't remember, but I'm sure it wasn't a Chevron, also there's still alil over 1/4 tank of Chevron fuel still in the tank, CEL turned on after roughly 100 miles again. So now I'm thinking "no way". Does Chevron really burn that much cleaner? So the next fill up I made it a point to kinda go outta my way to hit a Chevron. Mind you it wasn't the normal Chevron I go to, to further test my theory, and sure as $h!t the CEL never came on. So I'll be going to Chevron as often as possible from now on.

After all this, I've never encountered any oil consumption and I'm alil over 100k miles now. Did the tune up and as expected the CEL no longer comes on at all ever. Car still runs like a champ!
 
#48 ·
I used to like Chevron because they used to give me Save On(a BC supermarket chain) Points, but they stopped doing that, and their 91 is still ethanol-stained, so I stopped going there. I am tempted to try their 94 now(with the RX-8 as the premium is mandatory), however, which is ethanol-free. Chevron is the only gas station in BC, Canada that offers a 94 octane option. All the other ones top out at 91.

As for Techron... Those bottles of Techron seems to be useless, but the long term use of Chevron gas containing Techron may make a difference.

Shell is also pretty good IMO. That's where I go for my Accord, even though it's a bit out of the way.

I plan on replacing my PCV valve (after 102,000 miles) but, you know what, it seems to be impossible to find a HONDA DEALER that has one in stock. Had my B14 service performed Monday. While there, I went to the parts desk to get my spark plugs and a PCV valve. The guy said they would need to order the valve. Same thing at the other Honda dealer in town. WTF. Can't even find it in the Honda ePartsStore. Also I'm sure you guys who have looked at that website have noticed the Honda parts drawings are pathetic, quality-wise.
Not sure about Honda dealerships, but the Mazda one(now that I have an RX-8) told me that they only stock things if more than 3 of the same item were used in a 6-month period. Not that many people worry about PCV valves, so I don't expect dealerships to stock them. Heck, the Mazda one doesn't even stock the brake pads or the plastic clips holding the trunk insulator in place for my RX-8!

Most of the generic drawing for parts are bad. You haven't seen the ones for my Corolla. And at least Honda uses a name that makes sense for the part. My Corolla had a name that makes no sense for a gasket for the PCV or oil drain plug, I can't remember.

You don't need to get one from the stealership. I bought two of them for our Accords off either Amazon or rockauto. They are the exact same thing as the OEM part. A PCV valve is nothing more than a check valve. The innards are a spring and a ball. You probably don't even need to buy a new one. Just blow some carb cleaner through your old one and you're good to go.
In the States, this makes sense. On Vancouver Island of Canada, not so much. Shipping is expensive, takes forever. Stealership is the best place to grab parts for me.

Instead of using Marvel Mystery Oil....I'm a FIRM believer in a product called Kreen.

You have to special order it online (and check a box that says you're a business, but it's no big deal).....
You use it in your oil and in your gas. It works wonders.
Normally I don't put anything in the Accord. At most, I dump a 1/3 can of Seafoam in my Accord once a year. Using Top Tier gas on a regular basis is the best practice, as mentioned before.

Some additives can lower octane ratings as well; too much of them and you will cause knocks, which is very bad for the engine. How much of this product do you use?

On the note of ordering something as a business, I somewhat have the same problem with my RX-8. A product called Idemitsu Premix is popular among rotary car owners, as rotary engines are designed to inject and burn oil, and putting something similar to 2-stroke oil in your gas can help with the lubrication of seals. The problem is that you have to order a huge quantity of this oil for Idemitsu to ship to you. I had to get them from an eBay seller in the States, and the import fee isn't pretty. Is there a minimum quantity you have to order(since you are ordering as a business)?
 
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