Rust Proofing...? Does it really work? - Drive Accord Honda Forums
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 11-14-2010, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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Rust Proofing...? Does it really work?

Just as the topic says.

I live in Toronto and the winters are pretty bad with the salt. Is it worth it to get my car drilled into to get it rust proofed or is it good enough to just spray the car underbody down? Anyone know how many holes are drilled and where on the coupe?

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post #2 of 15 Old 11-14-2010, 10:32 PM
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I never heard of drilled dust proofing? But yes the sprays work...don't know how often you have to spray it tho should say on the bottle

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post #3 of 15 Old 11-14-2010, 10:45 PM
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Heard good things about the spray. I don't know much about all the drilling of holes though. Or get it professionally done sprayed for 100-200. It could also be a fun DIY.



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post #4 of 15 Old 11-15-2010, 12:48 AM
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the factory coating should last a while, you should prob. just get it resprayed after a few winters... but if your really concerned about the salt... wash the bottom of your car down and remove the salt once it stops snowing

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post #5 of 15 Old 11-15-2010, 06:47 AM
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I got mine done this summer. Previously, I had had it done every year on my 99 dodge intrepid, I had the car for 8 years and there was no rust issues whatsoever on that car. People couldn't believe this was a 10 yrs old car. So it was only natural to do it on my Accord, especially if you plan on keeping it for a while.

They make holes to spray the rustproofing product inside the doors and other problem spots. Here's a link that may help answer some of your question regarding the process / products used. This is the place I went to get it done.

Process: http://www.antirouille.com/en/auto/index.php

Information:http://www.antirouille.com/en/information/

Here's a few answers from their FAQ:

Q: Do you drill holes in the vehicle?
A : Yes. Holes are drilled in strategic locations to provide access to all areas susceptible to rust. For example: the doors, undercarriages and rear fenders.

Q : Why must the vehicle be treated every year?
A : The difficult winters we experience in Québec and Ontario tend to lessen the effectiveness of most products over time. Due to temperature variations and the abrasive nature of salt, dust and sand, the product may be removed over time, leaving certain parts of the vehicle unprotected.

Q : I own a used vehicle, is it worth having it treated?
A : Absolutely. The fact that you are thinking of having an antirust product applied would indicate that your vehicle is in good condition. The treatment stabilises the existing areas of rust and, as a result, slows down the rust’s progression considerably.

Q : Why should I use oil as opposed to a thicker coating when treating my vehicle against rust?
A : Oil, which is fluid, will cover areas that are inaccessible to more viscous products. What’s more, because oil is fluid, it penetrates into the metal. Thicker coatings form a protective layer on the surface of the metal only and, over time, will dry out, crumble or scale. They also tend to obstruct evacuation holes. The uncovered areas will become vulnerable to rust. The corrosion process may even be accelerated due to water finding its way into unprotected areas.

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post #6 of 15 Old 11-15-2010, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by nave View Post
Just as the topic says.

I live in Toronto and the winters are pretty bad with the salt. Is it worth it to get my car drilled into to get it rust proofed or is it good enough to just spray the car underbody down? Anyone know how many holes are drilled and where on the coupe?

Thanks
Decades ago, Honda (and other Japanese manufacturers) were sued because the cars they manufactured and sold in the U.S. had essentially no protection against corrosion. The panels were painted, and that was it. After settling with owners, Honda began to galvanize the sheet-metal panels that make up the bottom and sides of their vehicles. And that works provided the galvanized portion of panels remains intact. If that layer of protection is worn away from rocks and other road debris over time, the exposed metal will rust and rust quickly. This is a real problem where sand is combined with chemicals that melt snow.

So, to answer your question, yes, rust protection works, but nothing will rust proof metal. Fe plus NaCl and H2O = rust. The idea, then, is to keep sand, salt and other chemicals from coming in contact with exposed metal. Undercoating is a good start if done right.

A good undercoating material is one that remains pliable. That's crucial. Once undercoating cracks, it acts to trap water, salt and other crud, which makes the problem worse than it would have been had the exposed area air dried. Also, because most outer panels are galvanized these days, most cars rust from the inside out. Consequently, it is crucial to ensure the inner panels of doors, fenders, wheel wells, etc. are protected from exposure to corrosives. That's why various chemicals are sprayed inside doors, fenders and quarter panels; to seal the inner panels from corrosive chemicals that will invariably seep into those areas if a car is driven in salty shush.

But really good rust protection doesn't have to be expensive. In fact, one of the very best rust preventives is incredibly cheap: namely, used motor oil. Simply spraying oil on the underside of a car and into the inner panels works great. Repeat as necessary. It is an environmental mess, however, which is why no licensed business can legally do it. But a lot of people still do it because it works so well. If you are socially conscious (and you should be), you'll put something down to collect the overspray and depose of that sheeting in an environmentally responsible fashion. The alternative is to choose a reputable company to do the work and read their warranty carefully. Does it require you to return annually for inspections (it should), and if so, are the "touch ups" free? Does their warranty specifically state it covers any rust damage that occurs from the inside out? If not, find another service. How many years of protection are provided (and how long do you plan to keep your car)? Any car will remain rust free for three years, so a warranty should offer at least five years of protection. Ten years is better, of course. Does the warranty pass to the next owner? That, too, is important. Ask for references and the names of prior customers. Call them. Know what you're buying.

In summary, rust proofing is a myth, but it is possible to get additional years of rust prevention if you, or the service you choose, in consciencious.
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post #7 of 15 Old 11-15-2010, 07:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechanic View Post
But really good rust protection doesn't have to be expensive. In fact, one of the very best rust preventives is incredibly cheap: namely, used motor oil. Simply spraying oil on the underside of a car and into the inner panels works great. Repeat as necessary.
Any thoughts on using WD-40 to prevent rust instead of the old oil? I would think it would be much easier to use than the old oil. Probably not as much of an enviromental mess either.
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post #8 of 15 Old 11-15-2010, 07:30 AM
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This fascinating - I always thought this was a bunch of bs that the dealer used to **** more money from you. Good luck drilling though! lol

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post #9 of 15 Old 11-15-2010, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spatel133 View Post
the factory coating should last a while, you should prob. just get it resprayed after a few winters... but if your really concerned about the salt... wash the bottom of your car down and remove the salt once it stops snowing
This can be done at a regular car was for $5, underbody wash

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post #10 of 15 Old 11-15-2010, 03:13 PM
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The stuff they use is basically mineral oil with some additives, not used motor oil. My parents had rust proofing done in the 80s and they sprayed 'used oil'. Man, what a mess that made. The mineral oil is transparent. It makes your car 'smoke' a bit for the first day or two, but rest of the time it's just fine.


Anyways, it's your car and your money. You decide where/when and how you spend it.

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post #11 of 15 Old 11-15-2010, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by nave View Post
Just as the topic says.

I live in Toronto and the winters are pretty bad with the salt. Is it worth it to get my car drilled into to get it rust proofed or is it good enough to just spray the car underbody down? Anyone know how many holes are drilled and where on the coupe?

Thanks
I would say get at least something done. On my old 2001 CivicI opted out on the rustproofing...BAD IDEA!! Tried to get at components like the brake lines, suspension bolts, etc. and those things were rusted, and I will tell ya rusted badly!! Many times I took my trusty Dremel and cut the nuts/bolts off and just had to buy new ones.

Now on my 2011 I didn't wait. 2 weeks before I bought the car I purchased 2 gallons of "Spectrum" from SecondSkin Audio. Me and a buddy placed the car on a friends lift, taped off the exhaust, fuel components(electrical), wheels, engine, etc. and went to town. Put 4 coats over the whole underbody. I can tell you this, the pinging caused by rocks are now gone, plus this stuff acts like a rust-proofer/coating.

Now we never did the doors..YET!! But I have my 1/32nd lead sheet/CCF sandwhich, CLD tiles and 2 more gallons of spectrum waiting for them. I'm not sure how much rust the door skins would ever get. The Civic never had and rust in the doors.. But at least this will protect it incase PLUS deaden noise and give me a barrier to prevent noise from even entering in the cabin.
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post #12 of 15 Old 11-16-2010, 07:05 AM
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http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Is_rust_pr...g_in_a_new_car

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post #13 of 15 Old 11-19-2010, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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Is it better to get the rust proofing which involves drilling or the oil spray one without drilling?

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post #14 of 15 Old 11-19-2010, 02:15 PM
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What does rust proofing and drilling have to do with it? Isnt drilling going to cause more rust?

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post #15 of 15 Old 11-19-2010, 04:18 PM
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Some cavities within a car is inaccessible without a hole drilled (usually 1/2" dia) to allow the spraying probe to enter, typically it's only for the B-pillar door jamb.

I just buy the fluid myself and spend 1/2 hour spraying it in the door cavity and certain areas under the car, inside the wheel fender lip is a vulnerable area, brake lines and fuel line are another.

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