Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Socal/ pwbandit@twitter
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I just got done doing the HFP swap into a 09 exl 6mt coupe, so all info pertains to the model only, yours might be different. Here is my walk through. First off, you need a more than just the 14 and 17mm sockets wrenches, you also need a some sockets not listed,12mm for the strut bar under the hood, and a 10mm for the speed sensor mounting points. The rear is harder IMO that the front so I will start there. Start by folding down your rear seats, and taking a look at the rear speaker tray. There are covers for the LATCH system, and closer to the outside of the car, there are covers so you can get you extension down onto the nuts. Pop off the cover, then grab the the trunk tray front the bottom edge and pop the three plastic rivets off the body to loosen the tray. That will give you enough room to get your hand on the nuts. Now use the 14mm and a 6 inch extension to get to the nuts and loosen them up. I took mine off completely. Pull the wheel your working on.Now you take off the sway bar mount under the car it is 14mm. It has a allen head in the stud to back it up if you need to, but I didn't to break it loose. Now you can take off the mounts for the speed sensor with the 10mm. It gives you alot more safe room to work. Now get a floor jack under the knuckle by the brake rotor and raise it up till it is a inch or so under it. Get the nut on the bottom of the shock loose to the end, but dint take it off yet. Use a rubber/soft hammer to tap the nut nice and soft to push it out. If you shake the brake/wheel hub as you tap it will come out easier. Now that the shock is loose, here comes the PITA. You have to lower the control arms enough to give the shock enough clearance to be removed. I put the floor jack under the hub (the car is on jack stands at this point BTW) with a 45lb weight. I then grabbed a ratchet strap and wrapped it around the brake rotor, and the underside of the floor jack. I now start to ratchet the strap until the weight of the jack starts to pull the control arms down. I tried it with just a 3 ton steel jack, but it wasn't enough weight without the extra 45lbs,so keep than in mind. I was able to racket down and keep it very stable. Drop out the old one, and popped in the new one. I positioned the top of the shock in first to get it over and onto the mounting point.Now with the play I had I released the strap SLOWLY. I lined up the bottom shock bolt and pushed it through and hand tightened the nut. Now I disassembled the weight/ratchet strap setup, and used the jack to bring up the hub and shock assembly into the mounting holes for the top of the shock. One thing I forgot to tell ya, the studs are ALL painted on the top of the shocks, it helps a whole lot to start the nuts on the bolts to clean up the threads BEFORE YOU INSTALL. I thought I was stripping one, until I grabbed a mirror took a look and found the black paint was screwing with the first few threads. I started all the nuts and got them fairlt tight, then got out and jack it up to preload the shock, and tightened to specs. The rest is mostly the same as the directions. The front is far easier IMO. If you got any questions, let me know. BTW the first one took me hour 15 minutes, the rest, took hour 40 minutes.
edit I didnt have the alignment checked, anyone that has the HFP need a alignment After the swap or have it checked?