2008 Honda Accord Coupe HFP suspension installation with diagrams. - Drive Accord Honda Forums
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 03-18-2008, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
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2008 Honda Accord Coupe HFP suspension installation with diagrams.







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post #2 of 13 Old 07-18-2008, 07:33 PM
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Have any of you done this yourself? I did the fronts today, but had no idea to get access to the rear upper strut mounting bolts? I saw the access panels, but for the love of god how are you supposed to get the nuts off and back on? An extention obviously, but getting it back on will be ridiculous. Any tips?

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post #3 of 13 Old 07-24-2008, 03:50 PM
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Seanith, were you able to remove the panels?

jblaust, excellent post!
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post #4 of 13 Old 07-24-2008, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k24z3 View Post
Seanith, were you able to remove the panels?

jblaust, excellent post!
Although I haven't done the rear install (I do it in two days), I know what to do. Basically, you take out the access panels, and you also unsnap the back panel trim thats behind the rear seats when it folds down. There are 3 snaps, one for each side and one for the middle. You are able to fit your hand underneath the rear deck without taking it apart. When you do that, you can direct the extention onto the nuts or thread the nuts back on when you put the suspension back on. Its about 100x harder than my 1996 civic but i guess it builds character haha.
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post #5 of 13 Old 04-02-2009, 06:12 AM
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Lightbulb Hfp suspension intstall this week-end

Spring has finally arrived and I am going to install my HFP suspension kit this week-end. I see that there has been a couple of posts regarding this and I have the install instructions.

What I was wondering was whether there were any tips that those of you who have done this can pass along to make life a little easier this week-end....

Any help is appreciated. Pics will follow... (afterwards).

#1:
2008 NHB Accord EX-L 3.5L 6MT
HFP 19" wheels Goodyear F-1
HFP Body Kit
HFP Suspension Kit
#2:
2008 SMR Accord EX-L 3.5L 5AT
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post #6 of 13 Old 04-02-2009, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewClarke View Post
Spring has finally arrived and I am going to install my HFP suspension kit this week-end. I see that there has been a couple of posts regarding this and I have the install instructions.

What I was wondering was whether there were any tips that those of you who have done this can pass along to make life a little easier this week-end....

Any help is appreciated. Pics will follow... (afterwards).

There are some good tips here... where in alberta are you?

2008 Honda Accord V6 6MT EX-L Coupe - Belize Blue Pearl
  • 6000K HIDs
  • 35% Tint All Around
  • HFP Aero Kit
  • HFP Suspension Kit
  • 19x8.0" Axis Matrix with Kuhmo Ecsta SPT 245/40ZR19
  • 2009 TSX Switchblade Key
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post #7 of 13 Old 04-02-2009, 08:38 AM
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I work in Edmonton, but live 45 kms west in the country.

#1:
2008 NHB Accord EX-L 3.5L 6MT
HFP 19" wheels Goodyear F-1
HFP Body Kit
HFP Suspension Kit
#2:
2008 SMR Accord EX-L 3.5L 5AT
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post #8 of 13 Old 04-02-2009, 08:41 AM
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off topic but i'm from edmonton as well!!!
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post #9 of 13 Old 05-02-2009, 03:21 PM
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I just got done doing the HFP swap into a 09 exl 6mt coupe, so all info pertains to the model only, yours might be different. Here is my walk through. First off, you need a more than just the 14 and 17mm sockets wrenches, you also need a some sockets not listed,12mm for the strut bar under the hood, and a 10mm for the speed sensor mounting points. The rear is harder IMO that the front so I will start there. Start by folding down your rear seats, and taking a look at the rear speaker tray. There are covers for the LATCH system, and closer to the outside of the car, there are covers so you can get you extension down onto the nuts. Pop off the cover, then grab the the trunk tray front the bottom edge and pop the three plastic rivets off the body to loosen the tray. That will give you enough room to get your hand on the nuts. Now use the 14mm and a 6 inch extension to get to the nuts and loosen them up. I took mine off completely. Pull the wheel your working on.Now you take off the sway bar mount under the car it is 14mm. It has a allen head in the stud to back it up if you need to, but I didn't to break it loose. Now you can take off the mounts for the speed sensor with the 10mm. It gives you alot more safe room to work. Now get a floor jack under the knuckle by the brake rotor and raise it up till it is a inch or so under it. Get the nut on the bottom of the shock loose to the end, but dint take it off yet. Use a rubber/soft hammer to tap the nut nice and soft to push it out. If you shake the brake/wheel hub as you tap it will come out easier. Now that the shock is loose, here comes the PITA. You have to lower the control arms enough to give the shock enough clearance to be removed. I put the floor jack under the hub (the car is on jack stands at this point BTW) with a 45lb weight. I then grabbed a ratchet strap and wrapped it around the brake rotor, and the underside of the floor jack. I now start to ratchet the strap until the weight of the jack starts to pull the control arms down. I tried it with just a 3 ton steel jack, but it wasn't enough weight without the extra 45lbs,so keep than in mind. I was able to racket down and keep it very stable. Drop out the old one, and popped in the new one. I positioned the top of the shock in first to get it over and onto the mounting point.Now with the play I had I released the strap SLOWLY. I lined up the bottom shock bolt and pushed it through and hand tightened the nut. Now I disassembled the weight/ratchet strap setup, and used the jack to bring up the hub and shock assembly into the mounting holes for the top of the shock. One thing I forgot to tell ya, the studs are ALL painted on the top of the shocks, it helps a whole lot to start the nuts on the bolts to clean up the threads BEFORE YOU INSTALL. I thought I was stripping one, until I grabbed a mirror took a look and found the black paint was screwing with the first few threads. I started all the nuts and got them fairlt tight, then got out and jack it up to preload the shock, and tightened to specs. The rest is mostly the same as the directions. The front is far easier IMO. If you got any questions, let me know. BTW the first one took me hour 15 minutes, the rest, took hour 40 minutes.

edit I didnt have the alignment checked, anyone that has the HFP need a alignment After the swap or have it checked?
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post #10 of 13 Old 02-16-2010, 02:46 PM
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would this be the same for the 2010 Accord Sedan?
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post #11 of 13 Old 07-20-2011, 09:23 PM
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maybe we can compare alignment specs together? After the suspension settles for a week or so of course.
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post #12 of 13 Old 12-09-2011, 11:29 PM
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that is really helpful but i think i will have a hard time understanding that diagram because i am not really that techie about it. i need my brother to do it anyway we are about to purchase this honda suspension from this source. has anybody tried getting parts from that one? can other suggest me some sources, a good place to get suspension. thanks. -dia
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post #13 of 13 Old 07-09-2013, 10:00 PM
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just a heads up, there is a part that is misleading, if not incorrect... the front dampening mounting nuts ...theres only 3 of them that are torqued to 55nm /41ft-lb (the 14mm ones) and the other 3 (the 12mm ones) that secure the strut bar only require 22nm/ 16ft-lb. This is confirmed in the honda service manual. You'll snap those weak bolts otherwise.

'08 PMM v6 sedan:
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