Trany problems; P0700, P1739 but no check engine light - Drive Accord Honda Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 01-07-2011, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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Trany problems; P0700, P1739 but no check engine light

I have a P0700 (Trany MIL Request...), and P1739 (3 Gear Clutch PS...) - And, NO check engine light.

i also have a clunk when i hit a pothole or sometimes at starting.

Tranny is only few months old with less than 10k on it. Check engine light does not come on but errors keep coming back.

I replaced a battery and alternator just in case it was a current issue. My battery was over 5 year old.

What should be my next step? I did the battery and alternator because transmission shop kept blaming current issue. I personally think they do not want to waste time on my car since i already paid them.

Thanks for any help.
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post #2 of 10 Old 01-08-2011, 05:21 AM
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According to the factory service manual a P0700 just means there is one or more transmission fault codes. Transmission codes do not turn on the engine MIL (check engine) lamp, they may cause the D4 light to illuminate or blink depending upon the problem.
The P0739 is the 3rd clutch pressure switch circuit problem. It could be a wiring problem or a defective switch problem. Both are fairly easy to troubleshoot with the proper tools and manual that your transmission shop should have. If they have not checked the switch, keep on them. If they have checked the switch and wiring and found them good, then maybe there is some other cause.
Is the transmission still under warranty from the shop?
I doubt the clunk noise is related to your transmission problems. Get the engine mounts and suspension inspected.

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1998 Accord LX I4 F23A1 5 speed - sons DD in DC
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1986 Accord LX Auto Totaled @137k miles
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post #3 of 10 Old 01-08-2011, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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Yes transmission is still under warranty but shop keeps ignoring codes and blaming other things in the car. They blamed my battery which is less than few months old( costco battery). wrong voltage can cause other problems. I replaced battery(free replacement from costco) and put a new alternator and get 14v at battery with everything in the car on( high beam, ac radio on full blast). I go in and they clear the codes. After that they take it for 5 min drive and codes are not on. i am going to be making my 4 trip to the shop. Shop is called sml performance transmission in san jose downtown.
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post #4 of 10 Old 01-09-2011, 06:07 AM
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First I need to clarify my previous reply about the MIL light and transmission codes. A P1739 code (3rd clutch switch) will not turn on the MIL light but some other codes will. For whatever reason a P1739 does not turn on or blink the D4 light either.
I presume you must have a code reader in order to know the code is there, so are you clearing it before taking the car to the transmission shop? In defense of the shop, if they test drive it and find no problem or codes, they cant fix it. Next time I would make sure the P1739 code is present before entering the shop. If you can determine when the code is set based on your driving pattern (short dirve, long drive, etc), make sure the shop test drives it in a similar manner. As I stated previously the wiring test for the 3rd clutch switch is rather simple to do with the right equipment (checking voltages and resistance), so I would push for the shop to check it out anyway just to verify it is correct.

2000 Accord SE I4 F23A1 Auto - Sold @174k miles & 10 years ownership
1998 Accord LX I4 F23A1 5 speed - sons DD in DC
1987 Accord LX 5 spd Owned for 17 years sold @155k
1986 Accord LX Auto Totaled @137k miles
1983 Accord LX 5 spd My Second Accord traded in
1978 Accord LX 5 spd My First Accord sold @ 100k
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post #5 of 10 Old 01-09-2011, 05:52 PM
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Also, If the clunk is new maybe they left the sub frame loose like Gilroy Honda did in my case.
Get some one else to check all the front end bolts/nut, incl the engine mounts.
I'd check the plugs to the switches, and especially the 3rd gear one. Maybe just replace the 3rd gear switch...

Bruce - AC6DN:
Honda Accord, 2001, 2.3L (L4), F23A4, 4D EX - My main car…
Ford Taurus, 1992, 3.8L V6, - Trany prob's
Toyota 4x4 Extra Cab Truck, 2.4L SR5, 22RTE (Turbo) 1987, I still have.
Honda Accord, 1984, 1800cc? L4,
Plymouth Arrow, 1978?, 1800cc?, L4 (POS)
Chevy, Monza, 1976, 350cu, V8, My funnest car, think muscle car, poorly made...
Olds Starfire? 1975, 231cu odd fire, V6,
My first car, 1965 Chevy Impala 283cu V8, (I got during the mid 1980)
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post #6 of 10 Old 01-10-2011, 03:11 AM
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check your sway bar bushings as well. and endlinks too

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post #7 of 10 Old 03-21-2011, 06:58 PM
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I have had these codes throne once a year or less (as in, every other year).

I mention this because, guess what I found on my on my routine code check (No MIL).
P0700
P1739

Bruce - AC6DN:
Honda Accord, 2001, 2.3L (L4), F23A4, 4D EX - My main car…
Ford Taurus, 1992, 3.8L V6, - Trany prob's
Toyota 4x4 Extra Cab Truck, 2.4L SR5, 22RTE (Turbo) 1987, I still have.
Honda Accord, 1984, 1800cc? L4,
Plymouth Arrow, 1978?, 1800cc?, L4 (POS)
Chevy, Monza, 1976, 350cu, V8, My funnest car, think muscle car, poorly made...
Olds Starfire? 1975, 231cu odd fire, V6,
My first car, 1965 Chevy Impala 283cu V8, (I got during the mid 1980)
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post #8 of 10 Old 06-30-2013, 06:56 AM
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p1739 honda accord 2002

Hi.

What does no MIL mean?

Thanks for your time to answer this.

tranny issue AGAIN.


no warranty..past due.

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post #9 of 10 Old 06-30-2013, 05:39 PM
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MIL stands for Malfunction Indicator Light (Honda terminology). Some others call it CEL or Check Engine Light.

2000 Accord SE I4 F23A1 Auto - Sold @174k miles & 10 years ownership
1998 Accord LX I4 F23A1 5 speed - sons DD in DC
1987 Accord LX 5 spd Owned for 17 years sold @155k
1986 Accord LX Auto Totaled @137k miles
1983 Accord LX 5 spd My Second Accord traded in
1978 Accord LX 5 spd My First Accord sold @ 100k
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post #10 of 10 Old 07-01-2013, 04:20 AM
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replace the 3rd clutch pressure switch.

these switches fail and fail intermittently. they can cause shifting problems intermittently. it ****s that you had an aftermarket shop rebuilt your trans - they usually don't replace all the solenoids and switches.

a Honda reman unit would have been the better choice if you are planning on keeping the car. plus we've done (if you were around during the 'failure phase' of these cars) so many of these transmissions we know the car inside and out - a/t in and out in 2.5 hours without breaking a single wiring harness ziptie! lol
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