Drive Accord Honda Forums banner

Just got quoted $1200 for front and rear pad and rotor replacement

8K views 60 replies 25 participants last post by  t-rd 
#1 ·
That's too high, right?

- This is not a dealership
- Doing it myself is not an option
- Apparently the rotors have already been shaved and there's not enough metal to shave again
 
#2 ·
Jesus Mickey, run as far away from that place as possible.

I've attached a screenshot of RockAuto's offerings for the 2008 Accord V6's brake pad and rotor kit options (that's apparently too small to read because of DA's resizing, lol). The best kit they offer is $272.79 and the kit includes "high-performance carbon fiber/ceramic brake pads and a complete set of cross-drilled & slotted rotors". Use that to determine whether or not the quote you get from other shops is fair.

Here's the link: http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor+&+brake+pad+kit,13824

(not saying you need to buy these, it's just a price example)
 

Attachments

#6 ·
Jesus Mickey, run as far away from that place as possible.

I've attached a screenshot of RockAuto's offerings for the 2008 Accord V6's brake pad and rotor kit options (that's apparently too small to read because of DA's resizing, lol). The best kit they offer is $272.79 and the kit includes "high-performance carbon fiber/ceramic brake pads and a complete set of cross-drilled & slotted rotors". Use that to determine whether or not the quote you get from other shops is fair.

Here's the link: 2008 HONDA ACCORD 3.5L V6 Rotor & Brake Pad Kit | RockAuto

(not saying you need to buy these, it's just a price example)

I'm preparing to hand over my 8th gen to my kids. I just replaced front and rear discs and pads with the Powerstop Autospecialty daily driver kit from Rockauto. I had my independent mechanic install them and so far so good. I was concerned about the quality given the low price but I have no issues so far.
 
#7 · (Edited by Moderator)
I hear ya, but not exactly relevant as its not how professional shops charge for labor. And as I stated earlier, doing it myself is not an option.

So, I called 2 other shops and quotes of a little over $900 and $1000 respectively.

I'm preparing to hand over my 8th gen to my kids. I just replaced front and rear discs and pads with the Powerstop Autospecialty daily driver kit from Rockauto. I had my independent mechanic install them and so far so good. I was concerned about the quality given the low price but I have no issues so far.
This would've been a super sweet reply if you had included how much you'd paid said independent mechanic!
 
#8 ·
$100 per hour for labor? I better be getting cappuccino and a foot massage for that price. That shop is preying on people who don't know better. Try some other places in the area and see what they give you. It's okay to ask for average quality pads and rotors over the highest quality ones. As long as they stop the car, they're good. I usually get Duralast or Raybestos brand. You don't need slotted rotors on your DD ;)

Also, unless your rotors are making the car vibrate when stopping or they're rusting apart, you don't really need to change them. When's the last time they were changed?

Let's do some very, very simple and general math here: a brake and rotor set for all 4 wheels is maybe $150 at retail price. The shop does not pay that much for it, mind you. Mark that retail price up a generous 50%. Labor should be from $75 to $90 an hour (where I live in PA anyway). Give them MAYBE two hours labor because you're going to sit and wait for your brakes to be done instead of handing the car over and leaving it there all day.

$480 plus tax out the door.
 
  • Like
Reactions: chriso
#11 ·
Let's look at what I did:

I ordered the kit from Rockauto. Price to my door for the kit was ~270 Cdn (damn that low Canadian dollar). Add $80 labour and tax and I'm at a little over $360 Cdn. Now, my independent mechanic could not order discs/pads for all 4 wheels for less than $550 Cdn. So I saved $230 Cdn by ordering parts from the US.

In talking to my independent mechanic who is 40km (25 miles) away from me and also talking to local shops all charge double the labour rate when the customer supplies the parts. My independent guy says I am his only client for whom he does not charge double the labour rate when I supply parts because I've never supplied incorrect parts in over 16 years unlike most of clients who supply their own parts. They justify the higher labour rate because they risk having a car stuck on a hoist while correct parts are tracked down (and of course the loss of their markup on parts).
 
#13 ·
Can I ask why doing it yourself is not an option? I have changed my brakes in a pinch with basic tools and the spare tire jack that comes with the car so I'm just curious. There are plenty of videos to help if you are hesitant because you have never done it.

Just seems like that's not $1000 well spent in my opinion.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Das Chicken
#14 ·
I would never ever work on brakes using just the spare tire jack. I'm sure lots of people do and lots of people get away with it but it really is not a smart thing to do. I say this not to chide you but so that others reading your post won't get the idea that it's okay to do this. For the record it's foolish and dangerous - many people have died from unsafely raising their vehicle and not supporting it with jack stands.
 
#16 ·
That sounds in the ballpark but there can be a huge difference in the parts and their price. Hear my rant below.

I went to Firestone to have new pads and rotors on all corners of a CRV with a brake fluid flush, brake bleed with ABS bleed and lubrication of the sliders and pins. It came to around 1200 or so. I checked the parts and it turns out they used NAPA parts. The rear discs were 33 dollars each if I walked into NAPA myself and they charged 160 each for the rear rotors. I know the "business model" is to markup the parts but that was crazy. When I filled out the survey I complained a little bit and they actually called me back and asked me what would make it right. I said 100% markup on the parts would be fair IMO not the 500% for the rear rotors. They agreed and refunded 200 bucks. They claim it was probably an input error with their system and the price of the rotors should have been $66, not $166. They were done in like 2 hours. I thought it was BS to charge labor to lubricate the pins and slides that should be part of the brake job cost IMO. In all fairness, they were very professional, got me in and out at a moments notice and it is the best brake pedal I have ever had. The rotors look so cheap though as they rusted in a month or two. There was brake fluid all over the areas below the master cylinder and they sledged the hell out of the original rotors when taking them off the hub. I don't understand why they couldn't have used a puller or a bolt to separate the rotor from the hub as they do in the videos. I would have preferred coated rotors at those prices. I originally had an appointment at the dealer but it was a week out and the brakes were metal to metal at that point so I had to take it in to a "chain". I've had really good service in the past from Firestone for tires so I took a chance. For those that do it themselves, kudos to you, there is a huge savings to be made.

Next time around, I will just go to the dealer and have them do it. I think the Honda parts are superior. I think the prices would be similar or am I way off? This experience definitely makes me consider turning cars over quicker now because professional labor is so expensive.
 
#17 ·
PLEASE STATE THE REASON THAT DOING IT YOURSELF IS NOT AN OPTION. If you don't want to do it yourself, then you are subjected to shop's raping destroyer prices. Either you do it yourself or pay up. I am just hearing complaints here about money. I stopped complaining after I found out how easy it is to do brake jobs yourself. I invested in some tools ONCE, and have used them for over 6 years now doing my own brake jobs.

I have done brake jobs using the stock scissor jack and wheel lug nut wrench, ON THE SIDE OF A BUSY STREET. This was before I bought actual tools. You don't have to put yourself in danger with OEM scissor jack, just put the wheel under the chassis as a safety, USE YOUR BRAIN. The rest of the tools you need can be purchased at local auto parts stores, which last a lifetime.

You should never resurface rotors, especially because you can get quality rotors for very cheap these days. Resurfacing rotors mean taking away heat dissipating material, to lessen cooling capacity.

I will even list the tools you need:
- stock wheel lug nut wrench -> if you don't feel like using this, get yourself a 1.5' breaker bar from home depot + 19mm deep socket
- stock OEM scissor jack-> if you don't feel like using this, get yourself a small $25 MVP hydraulic jack from Walmart
- mid range torque wrench, up to 100 lb-ft
- impact screwdriver -> for loosening rotor screws
- 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench
- 10mm, 12mm, 14mm sockets
- U clamp
- 2 cans of brake clean
- silicone paste + brake parts grease

The above tools run less than $200. You don't have to go out either, order on amazon. Order the parts on amazon at the same time. You can get the whole job done for less than $500.
 
#21 ·
I didn't see the OP as really complaining about the price but rather being shocked at the price he was quoted and then asking for opinions.

And while I agree that one can purchase the tools and parts and do it themselves there are reasons why this is impractical:

- physically unable
- living somewhere where DIY repairs are not allowed
 
#18 ·
I did four rotors and four sets of pads for $270, Rockauto.com
All high quality!

Centric rotors
Power Stop
Z26 front pads
Z23 rear pads.

Fantastic stopping power!

I hate to see people get ripped off Like this...they make you think changing brakes is a very difficult job and highly trained master mechanics must do this job for you, when in fact, it is a very simple job. This is a job you might not want to do by yourself the first time unless you are mechanically inclined.
There are plenty of YouTube videos on this subject and I would encourage you to watch one or two before you drop enough money to perform four full brake jobs.

Either way, good Luck!
 
#31 ·
This! An hr. North of DC mechanics rate is $130-150 hr. (Fred. Md.) As I have said in other posts to look outside metro areas for an ASE mechanic where labor rates are much lower and customer service is usually better as they have to please the local community or they go under. I drive 30 min. to my mechanic, in a small town, his labor rate is $85 hr, ASE certified. 100% mark up on parts is normal but many times around metro areas it is what the market will bear & 500% mark up can be common. Once I came across a garage that charged 1000% mark up on some parts. Most people just want their car fixed, they pay the bill without question. By usuing cheaper parts a garage can increase their profit margin. You need to find out about quality of the parts being used. Those cheap (China) NAPA $30 rotors will wrap/wear fast. Ask around work where others go, maybe find a co-worker that works on cars. An Honest Mechanic is worth their weight in gold.
 
#23 ·
A more reasonable price for OEM or OEM replacement rotors and pads + labor should range from $700 - $900 from a dealership.

Keep in mind that a shop will charge what they want, or feel is competitive relative to other shops. In addition, a dealership will be more expensive 99% of time because many business related cost-factors, that a private shop doesn't have.
 
#24 ·
Maybe you could try YourMechanic? I did a quick test quote for the DC area and came up with $330 labor, $20 parts processing fee (I'd buy a decent kit on RockAuto rather than have them install O'Reilly BrakeBest rotors and pads). They come to you as well.

All they'd need is a flat surface to jack the car up on and 3 hours of your time.

I cannot vouch for mechanics in DC but my parents have had to call one for an emergency knock sensor replacement and they did great work.
 
  • Like
Reactions: spiritof76
#27 ·
OP fly me to DC - $300
buy the parts < $300
pay me for 2 hours - $200

Save $400.

Seriously though. I'd love to see a shop justify charging for 6 hours for a standard brake job. Unless all calipers are bad and they have to change them.

Here's how I've seen brake jobs go down at shops.

Customer drops the car off.
One hour later the cars go to the lift
Parts ordered if not on the shelf
Other cars worked on one for an hour
Parts show up
Spray brake clean
Hour later take parts off
Half hour later test drive
 
#30 ·
OP, you don't have to stay inside the District to get your car worked on, Alexandria Virginia is a maximum of thirty minutes away. There is a shop there called Old Towne Car Care (May be listed as Old Town Texaco) They are right on South Washington Street (which is what the GW Pkwy is called inside the city of Alexandria) look them up in the yellow pages and give them a call. I have been friends with the chief mechanic there for almost twenty five years, he WILL NOT charge you $1,100 dollars for a simple brake job. He also will not try to pad his bill with unnecessary work, or time, or parts. In the future, make an effort not to telegraph to the shop that you are unwilling, or unable to perform work yourself, they will take that golden opportunity to sexually assault your wallet every single time.
The reason for the bold faced thievery is quite simple. Washington D.C. is a lot like Los Angeles, in that the economy there is not based in reality. There are a large number of very busy people who know little to nothing about their cars or how they work, and have the disposable income to say "Just fix whatever is wrong and send me the bill"
 
  • Like
Reactions: spiritof76 and enne
#33 ·
Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see where the OP mentioned the year, body style or trim level for this car.

And -for yuks- maybe the OP should ask a local Honda dealer for a quote. At least that gives a benchmark against which the other shops can be evaluated...
 
#35 ·
In this land of DIY and youtube videos, I actually learned how to do a full timing belt job myself. I started with doing an oil change in my own driveway when I was 22 that was it. If I'm back in asia, I'd call someone to do it all day long because of the ultra cheap labor, but here, the labor rate is expensive that's why people want to come here to make money. I remember paying $340 for new pads and rotors to be re-surfaced at Honda. I said to myself that day that I'd learn myself.

- drive out to somewhere else and get someone else to do it, don't forget the gas you need to spend to do this
- go on craigslist and find able mechanics posting ads on services
- get another shop quote somewhere else
- do it yourself, if you are physically able
- bite the bullet and pay this price you got
- fly me out from Chicago area to DC and I'll do it for you for just $100 + a few can of beers. Just buy your own parts ready -> still less than $1200

Start with just pad changes, that's how I started. I placed my laptop in the garage and followed step by step. If you have a second car, and driving the second car is an option, then go for it. If $1200 is for 4 pads + rotors, I don't want to know how much that same place charges for a timing job when it comes. $2500? Now make something productive happen.
 
#36 ·
LOL that's robbery without a gun
 
#39 ·
I just did front pads and rotors. I no longer do this work as a DIY although I've done more than a dozen over the years.

Most shops won't "turn rotors" because they are too thin for weight savings. Dealer said they might get one turn and that was questionable.

Local shop for fronts (rotors are bigger and thus pricier) pads and rotors $360

Dealer $240 pads, $360 pads and turn rotors, $560 pads and new rotors.

I got a friend of a friend (who is a service guy at a Honda a dealership x 20 years who freelances in his driveway) to do pads and rotors for $225 and my buddy recommended a $20 tip.
 
#44 ·
I haven't done mine yet, but that price sounds very high. When I got my Accord, the dealership told me my front brakes are at 80% while my rear ones are at 70%. Since then I have put 11k kms(7k miles) on them, so I am not worried at all.



BC is similar, maybe a little more expensive.

I might actually go ask about it since my Corolla has a very wobbly brake. Asked on a Corolla forum and they said it's the rear drum brakes, so I might go and check them out.
 
#47 ·
Hope he invested in the parts and the rest in tools.
 
#48 ·
I just replaced my front and rear pads and rotors for under $200 in my driveway back in October. You could do it too. If you have zero tools, it'll cost about an extra $150 to get what you need. Others have posted here to order from Rock Auto, I concur with this. Centric premium is the way to go, it takes about 2-3 hours in the worst case scenario. Got any friends who know their way around a wrench?

EDIT: I just saw you can't DIY it, but I assure you that you could source the parts yourself online and hire a local shop to install them for MUCH less than the $1200 quote
 
  • Like
Reactions: 97trophy
#50 ·
^

There is ZERO risk as long as you put the wheel you take off under the chassis around the mid frame area, right behind the pinch weld jack point. If the car drops, it drops right onto the rim, which is designed to hold the car anyway. There is absolutely no need to crawl under the car when doing a brake job either.

---------------------

Most people don't do their own brakes thinking they'll crash and burn because something is not done right. In fact, changing just the pads involve loosening just the bottom slider pin bolt, swinging the caliper up, pushing the piston back in with a C-clamp, swinging the caliper down, re-tighten the same bolt, THAT'S IT! Take the car out in the neighborhood and test it right after. That's just one 3/8" ratcheting wrench, a 12mm socket, a c-clamp.

Of course, get anal with the brake hardware and cleaning/lubing everything is key in a brake job's longevity. Changing the rotors involves a few more tools and more elbow grease. But it's nothing one can't handle. You can even do it sitting on a chair. Study several youtube videos and away you go, that's it.
 
#52 ·
Of course, get anal with the brake hardware and cleaning/lubing
Phrasing!!!!!

But yes, you should not be under the car for a brake job. I just remember when I posted photos of my work, I got a ton of flak over the car being jacked up with no tire when I took the photo.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top