One of the pulleys on my v6 was making a horrible noise on cold days. So I decided to change out both the tensioner pulley, idler pulley (kinda impossible to tell which one is squealing since they are so close), and serpentine belt while I was at it. I got the tensioner pulley off with no problem but the idler pulley bolt is too long to come out; it hits the frame. Can someone tell me how to change it, and a write up would be amazing...
I may try jacking it up. Yeah, I have a haynes manual and it says there are two bolts but I could not figure out which two! The haynes manual is like half the size of every other haynes manual I own/have owned. It ****s, and there arent a whole lot of pictures.
i changed the tensioner on my 7th gen accord i4 before, and i had no problems with it. now im planning to change it on my tl-s, but i looked at my engine and it looks like i may run into this problem too. how did you end up doing this? did you jack the engine up in order to get the required clearance?
just did the auto tensioner. it is true that the long bolt does not come out that way. there is in fact a small bolt on the bottom side(takes awhile to find). whole process took me < 1 hr and that includes removing the side motor mount
i dont think i HAD to but it gives me a little more room, plus the side mount is so easy to move i might as well do it.
yea that bolt took me like 10 min feeling around the auto tensioner to find it, its tough because you cant see it, you can only feel for it. then you have to get a socket and short extension and then feel for it again(in a tight spot).
once u do it once, it'll be much easier the second time because u know where the hidden bolt is. however i dont think these things go out enough times for me to have to ever change this again.
2004 V6 Accord
I had the same whining noise coming from the pulley side of the engine. All rpms and operating temperatures. Used screwdriver to listen and alternator was the the strongest vibration whine.
I pulled alternator and took to get tested and it was okay and spins freely and quietly.
I picked up a replacement tension assembly. I see in your picture that the pulley cannot be removed without other methods mentioned. I removed the 12mm offset bolt from under the tension assembly and the whole thing came out pretty easily. New tension arm is alot stiffer and made it fun to re-install belt. Engine runs quiet and I am thankful to this forum.
OK, I have been doing some research on this whining sound. I have a 2004 Accord and I changed the o rings because I was told that was the problem, that air was getting in the pump. So I still have the problem, now I will try changing the pulley tensioner. My question is how long can I drive it safely? My wife and kids are taking a trip and I cannot fix it until they get back. Is it safe?
OK, I have been doing some research on this whining sound. I have a 2004 Accord and I changed the o rings because I was told that was the problem, that air was getting in the pump. So I still have the problem, now I will try changing the pulley tensioner. My question is how long can I drive it safely? My wife and kids are taking a trip and I cannot fix it until they get back. Is it safe?
Well you don't know what's causing it and we don't know if they are driving a few hours, or from Florida to Alaska. How can we tell you if it's safe? Rent a car if you're not sure.
Remove the serpentine belt and spin the pulleys by hand to see which feel rough. IF it's a pulley and it seizes, it will eat thru the belt. Once the serpentine belt snaps, she will lose power steering and the car will be instantly running off battery power till it dies (no alternator charging). If she keeps driving, it will overheat because the water pump will stop circulating coolant.
NOISY CAR HERE TOO , thought it was a power steering pump but it wasn't and decided this could be the problem and after loosening my belt the bottom pulley had some play in it and Im thinking im Just going to this now. Auto tensioner is off but cant get it out without it hitting other pulleys or timing belt cover. Anyone have a better way without removing anything else? I need my car for work and im stuck any help would be appreciated
where are you in Chicago? I will be in the city on Tuesday.
You need to pull up and move away the power steering reservoir that's it. Partially remove the splash shield by the crank pulley, then you loosen the 12mm alignment bolt at the bottom left side of the auto tensioner. Then you loosen the 14mm middle bolt on the tensioner itself. After this, you can turn the tensioner sideways and move it out.
I'm in the Aurora area, just let me know when you are free. I'm busy with work most of the time but I do drive everywhere. Schaumburg is 15 to 20 minutes from the city? How fast do you drive?! It could be the power steering pump also, or even the a/c compressor pulley.
You do not need to remove the timing cover to get to the alignment bolt, are you crazy? Partially remove the splash shield by the crank pulley, pull down that splash shield and you'll see the alignment bolt.
I found the "hidden bolt". It is directly under the idler pulley. Use a 12mm socket under there to try on all that you find. It will only fit that bolt.
That idler pulley was worn on the surface, it did not turn as easily as the others, and the belt was worn on the smooth side, so I concluded it was the culprit.
So I replaced the idler pulley (the lower pulley) and now the squeal is constant and worse. I did not replace the belt, although it has some shiny spots on the grooved side but since there were no cracks in the ribs I did not replace it.
I have a stethoscope, and have tried holding it on all all surface close to the belt, but do not hear a squeal through it.
Any ideas on finding this new squeal? Very frustrating.
Thank you t - that was it. Mine was shiny on the smooth side, making me think it was slipping on the pulleys. There was also back glob build up on the tensioner pulley so I though I may as well do it also while I am at it (the guy at AutoZone also said he could feel a grind in it).
So I did the belt and the tensioner pulley and it is like a Swiss watch.
An FYI to save other newbies time - the belt cannot be put around the crank pulley from above. You have to get under the car and push it in between the pulley and a metal fluid line that is next to the pulley.
My problem is actually the alternator that was making a loud whine noise even at idle but as the rpm increased so does the whine and its not a pleasant one. Apparently the bearing inside is what went bad and unfortunately I can only replace the entire thing from what I've heard. And yes there is only a 12 mm bolt to take out the auto tensioner pulley and the 14 mm to loosen the bottom pulley the top pulley does need to be loosen at all only push forward on the top pulley 14 mm bolt to release tension on the drive belt.
what the torque spec for the 12mm and 14mm bolt for the auto tensioner? I keep finding conflicting information online for the 14mm ranging from 22lf-lb to 60 ft-lb
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