Over the past month i've had a no-crank, no-start issue that worsened over time. started out with 9 out of 10 times getting crank. a month later it was 9 tries before crank.
issue was as follows: insert key (factory keys, tried all of them), turn to run and all dash lights/radio/accessories came on. turn key to start and you could hear the solenoid click, and ignition voltage was lost, but voltage at the constant cables was maintained (with some voltage drop) - but no crank. repeat attempts to start until actual crank. once crank - it fired up fine.
what i evaluated: i started by evaluating the aftermarket remote start. all connections soldered by myself and no wiring was cut. i removed power from the alarm system to eliminate an immobilizer signal issue and the problem remained. i checked connections at neutral/safety switch and gear position switches - no changes. immobilizer MIL was never illuminated at the dash.
i took the car to the dealership at 58k mi and they confirmed the starter was bad. they wanted $650 for parts and 2 hrs of labor for $950 total.
I bought a salvaged starter for $90 (from a wrecked 2014 2.4L).
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Entire job took an hour, including lifting the car onto jack stands, disconnecting battery connections, etc.
14mm socket with extensions
pliers (for removing harness clip)
- disconnect battery terminals with a 10mm socket.
- put wheel chalks on rear tires and lift car to place on two jack stands (one on each side). lift high enough to have a few inches between tires and ground/floor **i added another pair of jack stands under front suspension for insurance.**
- slide under car and position yourself under the rear of the motor.
remove the wire harness clips first. a standard 2-wire clip is on the starter. the large black clip has a top release and slides off the metal tab. the green wire clip is best pried closed from below (hence pliers being on the list). a 10mm bolt holds the power wire on the starter (this can be loosened after you pry the rubber boot back - and can be done after the starter is slid out).
you can see the starter location in this photo - bottom left:
There are two 14mm bolts holding the starter on. Both are accessible.
The rear bolt has a long shaft extension so it is accessible with a standard socket
after removing both bolts completely - the starter slides out easily. at 58k mi. i didn't have any issue with loosening the bolts by hand, with a standard ratchet and arm strength.
view after removal of the starter
installation is reverse of removal. you can connect the positive terminal before final placement, or do it last.
a video link is here, i discuss the bolts: