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fuse power distribution Stereo

3K views 17 replies 5 participants last post by  Aviatard 
#1 ·
good day

i have this 60 amp fused 4 gauge wire coming from the battery for the stereo which i will be splitting via the distribution fused block

1 point will be for the 50 rms Watts AMP x 4 @ 4-Ohm amplifier R300X4 on which i will be using 45 rms x 4 stereo speaker 4 ohm
1 point will be for 500 rms Watts Amp x 1 @ 2-Ohms on which i will be using a 400 rms woofer 2 ohm

what ampere fuses should i use at the powered distribution block

the setup i am using is as in the diagram, i am asking about the fuse distribution at the power block, thanks for the usual support in advance
 

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#2 ·
Not everyone uses the same system for listing output ratings for amplifiers. Some even lie to make their amp sound better. Especially cheaply made amps. Some lie to underrate their amps (cheater amps). So going by "listed" output ratings alone is not enough to determine this. Especially without listing the manufacturer name and model.

The best way to answer your question is to look at your amps. If they are of good quality, they should have fuses on them (they may be internal). Use the same value of those fuses to put in the distribution block. If the amp has multiple fuses on it (some have fuse for each channel) add the values together for each amp and use that in the block. Also, the fuse that you have at the battery (before the block) should be the total value of both amp fuses combined. For example, if your 4 channel uses a 20a fuse and the sub amp has a 40a fuse, then the 60 amp fuse you have is perfect.
 
#3 ·
For example, if your 4 channel uses a 20a fuse and the sub amp has a 40a fuse, then the 60 amp fuse you have is perfect.
the amplifier and speaker i m using is as follows

1. Rockford R300X4 Prime 4-Channel Amplifier , 50 Watts x 4 @ 4-Ohm and i will be using 4 Rockford Fosgate R165X3 6.5" speakers on it, they are 4 ohm with 45 watt rms
fuse amp as per manufacturer
Recommended Fuse (not included): 50 A
Max. Current Draw (13.8V Sinewave): 50 A
Average Current Draw (13.8V Music): 25 A

2. Rockford R500X1D mono amp 300 Watts x 1 @ 4-Ohms - 500 Watts x 1 @ 2-Ohms and i will be using a 12" kenwood with 400w rms 2 ohm sub
fuse amp as per manufacturer
Recommended Fuse (not included): 50 A
Max. Current Draw (13.8V Sinewave): 50 A
Average Current Draw (13.8V Music): 25 A

now i have just checked as you said and the manufacturer has recommended to use inline 50 Amp fuse for each amplifier which makes my total amp 100, now i want to ask one thing

Is 100 amp too much on the alternator and since i m using only speakers on Amp 1 can i use a lower rating fuse
 
#4 ·
The speaker specs are irrelevant for determining the fuse size for the amps. Those are mainly for matching the right amp to the speaker which yours looks pretty good. As long as they are not going below the minimum impedance (ohm) spec for the amp you won't be pushing it in to protect mode or overdrawing the circuit. Again, you are within specs.

Each amp is rated at 50A max so yes, your total draw (at max) is 100A. Now unless you plan on pushing the volume to the max, you probably won't be actually pulling that much. Keep in mind the sub amp (mono) will probably be pulling more of that power than the 4-channel. So personally I would recommend using a 40A on the mono (since this is where most of you power will be going) and a 30A on the 4-channel. If you blow one of them, bump it up to the next size but do not go above the 50A rating. The 60A main fuse you have at the battery SHOULD be fine but again, if it blows bump it up but do not go above 100A. Yes, you can use LOWER rating fuses and it won't hurt anything. They will just blow. However, if they blow due to pushing the amps you will want to bump them up. As long as you do not exceed the max rating sizes, you will be fine.

As for too much on the alternator, again, chances are you won't be pushing them to the max draw at once. Now if you were pushing them to the max draw for each amp along with everything else running in the car (lights, A/C, etc) then yes. This will probably cause issues on the alternator. At which point you would need to look at upgrading the alternator.

One thing that kind of concerns me is your power wire from the battery. You said you are using 4 AWG. Both amps call for a 4 AWG wire for power (should always be the same size for ground wires). These two combined is actually too small for one 4 AWG wire (based on specs). If the power line is too small for the amp, it will stress for power and possibly blow the fuse. So keep that in mind if you experience a lot of blown fuses. The wire and amps will also get hot if this happens. Which is not good. You may need to bump up the gauge to 2 AWG or even 1 AWG (increasing the grounds as well). I don't think it will be a problem but it's something to keep a watch for just in case.
 
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#5 ·
One thing that kind of concerns me is your power wire from the battery. You said you are using 4 AWG. Both amps call for a 4 AWG wire for power (should always be the same size for ground wires). These two combined is actually too small for one 4 AWG wire (based on specs). If the power line is too small for the amp, it will stress for power and possibly blow the fuse. So keep that in mind if you experience a lot of blown fuses. The wire and amps will also get hot if this happens. Which is not good. You may need to bump up the gauge to 2 AWG or even 1 AWG (increasing the grounds as well). I don't think it will be a problem but it's something to keep a watch for just in case.
thanks for the detailed explanation, i used 4 gauge using the crutchfield chart as explained by them

To determine the approximate current draw (in amperes) of your amplifier, you must first calculate the total power of the system (multiply the number of channels by the number of RMS watts per channel). If you have multiple amps, add up the total power figures to arrive at a grand total. Next, double your grand total power figure. Then, divide by 13.8.
Total RMS Wattage times 2 (Inverse of Amp Efficiency) divided by 13.8 Volts equals Current Draw in Amperes (explanation below), The resulting figure is your system's approximate maximum current draw.




my calculations are 1x400W rms woofer and 4x45W(180W)rms speakers, totaling it to {(400+180)x2}/13.8 = 84.05 Amperes, and this 4 gauge is already installed , i am waiting for the speaker and their amp, i think i will just change the main source current fuse to 80 Amp instead of 60 amp
 
#10 ·
my normal volume is usually between 23 - 28 most of the time, so blowing fuse is cheap alternative for sometimes i guess, anyways i will use a 50amp fuse for woofer, for 4 channel i will use the 30amp fuse, and will see how things work and 80 amp at the main
 
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