I would greatly appreciate if someone could help me with this issue.
My oxygen sensor went bad and the dealer wants way to much in labor to replace it and I would really like to do it myself. I know there is 2 but they say it's the one by catilac converter. If I change it does it require adjusting anything or it should be fine as soon as replaced. Also does anyone have any instructions on how to replace it. I would greatly appreciate any help on this.

Thanks
Mark

Mark, you look pretty young to be doing your own work. :)

Really though, it should be pretty simple deal of twist it out and put the new one in. Princess should have the pdf for it if you PM her. You will probably want to get a special socket that allows you to put it on and take it off with the wire coming out if it. You can probably find that a pep boys or auto zone. Make sure the exhaust is cool and put lots of penetrant on it. Exhaust components can be hard to separate.

Also, it should require no resetting that I know of. It will probably say if it does in the PDF though.

I've always wondered why a special tool was necessary for a O2 sensor, it looked to me like it could be done using something like a wrench with a 45 degree angle head?

there's an article on page 3 about it

& here's the instructions

I've always wondered why a special tool was necessary for a O2 sensor, it looked to me like it could be done using something like a wrench with a 45 degree angle head?


You might be able to use a wrench, but I like how sockets hold something firm an rarely strip something. Especially with exhaust components.

I found that my O2 sensor was hard to remove, because it was basically welded in place due to exhaust heat over time. Some suggest that you run the engine to heat up the exhaust a bit, but this didn't help me.

I heated the O2 sensor with a torch at the base for about 5 min, then the O2 socket loosened it up with almost no effort at all. Overall a pretty simple job once you get the old sensor to turn.

Yeah, its not always easy to get it loose. If you dont want to buy special tools and if you were damn sure that you could get it off, you could cut the wires and use a deep well socket to get it off, but be damn sure. You would probably be fine putting it back on with a wrench.

i've replaced that O2 sensor already... pretty easy actually!!! easy to get to and you can chop the wires if you like, because the new sensor will be either a "wire tap-in" type (cheaper universal) or comes with a pigtail and grommet that feeds through a hole under passenger seat and plugs in under carpet (highly suggest this one)... there is access under the carpet on the floorboard, in front of the passenger seat... of course, i'm sure the .pdf above tells you all that!!! worse case scenario, use PB Blaster!!! ...it's good stuff :thmsup:

Is the secondary O2 sensor different, or did I miss something? My primary O2 sensor has a connector, I don't have to chop anything on it.

Is the secondary O2 sensor different, or did I miss something? My primary O2 sensor has a connector, I don't have to chop anything on it.
there is an O2 sensor on the intake side and another on the exhaust side... either way, you don't need to cut anything; i didn't either... it was just suggested if you'd like to use a socket wrench for removal...

Thank you all very much I really appreciate the input I'll try to replace it probably this week.

I am getting a code that points to the heater circuit in the secondary O2 sensor. Already checked the associated fuse and the connector, and reset the CEL only to have it come back.

So I'm gonna have to replace it. (Thanks Princess for the Newsletter and instructions!)

My question is, what is the right part number for that O2 sensor? I look it up at various parts sites, and the choices for the Bosch can cost between $60 and hundreds. Some specifiy they are heated, some don't. I think Bosch #15409 is the right one, but would like confirmation.

I am getting a code that points to the heater circuit in the secondary O2 sensor. Already checked the associated fuse and the connector, and reset the CEL only to have it come back.

So I'm gonna have to replace it. (Thanks Princess for the Newsletter and instructions!)

My question is, what is the right part number for that O2 sensor? I look it up at various parts sites, and the choices for the Bosch can cost between $60 and hundreds. Some specifiy they are heated, some don't. I think Bosch #15409 is the right one, but would like confirmation.

I'm sort of on the same quest. If you're going to go with Bosch take a look here http://www.boschautoparts.com/Resources/VehiclePartFinder/ . You need to know what engine you have. In the case of my 1999 Accord there are two 4 cylinder models, F23A1 and F23A4. I'm doing a front sensor and the difference in price is about $50 between an OEM Honda part and a Bosch unit with the correct connector. I'm just skeptical on the Bosch part as I've read elsewhere that it's recommended to go with the Honda one to ensure it works properly, unless I can be assured otherwise from someone here.

I'm sort of on the same quest. If you're going to go with Bosch take a look here http://www.boschautoparts.com/Resources/VehiclePartFinder/ . You need to know what engine you have. In the case of my 1999 Accord there are two 4 cylinder models, F23A1 and F23A4. I'm doing a front sensor and the difference in price is about $50 between an OEM Honda part and a Bosch unit with the correct connector. I'm just skeptical on the Bosch part as I've read elsewhere that it's recommended to go with the Honda one to ensure it works properly, unless I can be assured otherwise from someone here.



F23A1
This engine was used in the 1998-2002 Honda Accord EX and LX, and Acura 2.3CL in North America. The F23A4 is substantially similar, but features ULEV certification and 148 horsepower and 148 pounds-feet of torque.

We just had a megga prob with the oxygen sensors in the UK, it turns out that the fuel was contaminated by silicone.. But the interesting thing is..The huge variations that garages are charging some people for "solving the problem" i.e. changing the oxy sensor.. It varies from £1.000s down to under £100 in some cases.. :dunno:

Now the problem is becoming more serious due to the shortage of available sensors!! People are being told they may have to wait 2-3 weeks for the part!.. :paranoid:

I do love my ECU free car!!! :nuts: :lmao: :biggrin: and if things get worse, Cooking oil wont be contaminated ;) .. heh heh .. :naughty:
.

I'm sort of on the same quest. If you're going to go with Bosch take a look here http://www.boschautoparts.com/Resources/VehiclePartFinder/ . You need to know what engine you have. In the case of my 1999 Accord there are two 4 cylinder models, F23A1 and F23A4. I'm doing a front sensor and the difference in price is about $50 between an OEM Honda part and a Bosch unit with the correct connector. I'm just skeptical on the Bosch part as I've read elsewhere that it's recommended to go with the Honda one to ensure it works properly, unless I can be assured otherwise from someone here.

I wouldn't recommend using the bosch sensor, they typically don't work right in hondas and toyotas. Dont ask me why, they just don't. I replaced my secondary with a bosch sensor and I was still throwing codes after reseting the light, then I replaced it with one from the dealership and voila, problem solved.