hey guys, im trying to install a strut bar, but the 4 bolts i need to remove from the chassis are nothing short of irremovable. i havent seen any one else post this problem so i'm not sure if it's just my dealership. i've broken 1 wrench and 1 socket trying to remove them, and that's AFTER a whole can of PB blaster. any ideas? :dunno:

hey guys, im trying to install a strut bar, but the 4 bolts i need to remove from the chassis are nothing short of irremovable. i havent seen any one else post this problem so i'm not sure if it's just my dealership. i've broken 1 wrench and 1 socket trying to remove them, and that's AFTER a whole can of PB blaster. any ideas? :dunno:


Are you turning them the right way? Where are they exactly?

i'm supposed to turn them counterclockwise right?
these are the bolts i'm talking about (courtesy of a friend's diagram), the ones labeled "strut bar attaches here, 2 bolts each side"

shnizzle, I don't know. Try more liquid wrench and let it sit for a while. Also try a more robust socket and extension.

oh i know your problem

give me your strut bar :thmsup:



hmm should be counter clockwise...i suggest using a better wrench/socket like state above, and then put a length of pipe or something over the end of the rachet and pull or push

The bolts you're trying to remove go to THIS.

You just reminded me why I would need help doing the rear sway bar off a TL.

speaking of, do u have the rear sway bar? and if so, would you like to help me install mine?

The bolts you're trying to remove go to THIS.

i'm a bit confused. are the bolts i'm trying to remove connected to those? i thought for a front strut bar i just remove those 4 bolts from the chassis

hmm should be counter clockwise...i suggest using a better wrench/socket like state above, and then put a length of pipe or something over the end of the rachet and pull or push

i'm about to try and do that. hope i don't smash anything, cus it's likely going to be a BIG jolt when it pops loose.

You just reminded me why I would need help doing the rear sway bar off a TL.

good luck with that. those bolts are supposed to be even harder!

i just tried it again, and still no go. these bolts must be welded or something. they won't even budge a little bit :dunno:

guess it's bye bye strut bar

You got owned! Iono try a 1/2" drive ratchet maybe they're stronger

I don't know what a strut bar is..... :dunno: I just found what the bolts you pictured went to.

Here's the instructions for the stablizer bar....

Those bolts should not be so frappin' hard to loosen - look at the torque specs on Princess' pdf. Sounds like something is wrong. Loosening those shouldn't require a 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar. But that's what i'd try next. :D Seriously, you should be able to remove those two nuts on each side, install your strut brace bar, and then re-torque those nuts. Weird.... :dunno:

The factory overtightens everything...one Odyssey owner couldn't get his oil pan drain plug off, not even with heavy duty air tools

at least you know the vehicle is "screwed together well -- to hell with changing anything...."

it's just another reason for you to get a new car sooner.... :banana:

Sometimes I think you have to be an athlete to work on cars. Like it has to be genetic and you have to have the right muscle structure and certain bone mass to do it. Call me crazy.. Being average strength wont cut it and I don't think I'm genetically disposed to the mechanic trade..

im 6'1, 180, and i bench 225 and i STILL can't even move it the tiniest bit
:lmao:

what should i do? go to home depot and buy the drive ratchet? i have no idea what that is

it's just another reason for you to get a new car sooner.... :banana:

my car is 8 months old. :dunno: it's just crazy. i just spent the whole day modifying my strut bar to fit, now i can't even put it on

I don't know what a strut bar is..... :dunno: I just found what the bolts you pictured went to.

Here's the instructions for the stablizer bar....

thanks for the diagram :D but my strut bar is a much simpler bolt on.
remove screws, mount, and re-screw. i'm using "simpler" very loosely..

Go to a shop have them put air tools on it. If that doesn't do it, you'll probably need to try a real beefy ratchet with like a 6 foot breaker bar

When our kids were teens... the oldest was dating a body builder guy that has an EXTREMELY muscular body. (he still does) His water pump needed to be replaced & there was a bolt getting to it that he couldn't break loose for nothing! He had access to our air tools since the car was sitting in my garage. I left to get the kids from school & he still hadn't budged it.

I teasingly offered to help. He gave up & let me. It broke loose for me on the first try!! He still hasn't live it down!! :lmao:

Mighty Mouse!!!!! :lmao:

Iv'e done two installation of the strut bar.
Installed the manual version on my car ,and reinstalled
mine on a accord without any.Yours wasn't torqued,but
just tightened as hard as possible.It does require s bit
of brute force and maybe a persuader.Rubber mallet just to
break loose.Try a 1/2 wrench with a longer handle,for a little more
leverage.If working in the cold heat up with,lamp or hair dryer
might help.Were you able to remove any?

HEY GUYS! i bought a 1/2" ratchet and was able to remove 3 of the bolts. however, the last one has been rounded off so badly it's unbudgable....

this is one tough project...one thing just leads to another :lmao:

any suggestions on how to get this rounded bolt off? i tried using a 13 MM, and tried hammering it down, but it's much too small. :dunno:

When our kids were teens... the oldest was dating a body builder guy that has an EXTREMELY muscular body. (he still does) His water pump needed to be replaced & there was a bolt getting to it that he couldn't break loose for nothing! He had access to our air tools since the car was sitting in my garage. I left to get the kids from school & he still hadn't budged it.

I teasingly offered to help. He gave up & let me. It broke loose for me on the first try!! He still hasn't live it down!! :lmao:

Mighty Mouse!!!!! :lmao:

talk about loosening the jar :lmao:

If you rounded it you're pretty SOL...I don't know what else to do about that. Someone with huge experience needs to chime in now. My only thought might be trying a wrench with a big breaker bar instead but I doubt it would work much better. I was going to suggest a big pair of channel locks but you'd need superhuman strength to be able to lock it on tight enough

I was going to suggest a big pair of channel locks but you'd need superhuman strength to be able to lock it on tight enough

just call princess over.... :lmao: :banana:

i got the fourth one off! i just used my finger :lmao:

im just playing. what i did was fill my 14 mm socket with 1500 PSI epoxy, and stick it over my rounded nut. i waited 40 minutes for it to set, then attached my ratchet to the socket, and voila. i wasted my socket, since it's permanently stuck to the nut, but that's just like $4. i went to o'reilly and got me a new set of 14 mm nuts, and it's good as new! i'll take pics later

You are a genius :notworthy

Wow, thats crazy that you had so much trouble with the nuts, I had zero problems trying to get mine off for the TSB. I did end up stripping out the endlink bolts when trying to get my stock rear sway bar off. Ended up having to put a small set of vice grips on the other side of the endlink bolts to hold it in place while I loosened the nuts.

Congratulations!! :thmsup:


"just call princess over.."

See....don't mess with me!! :lmao:

thanks for the comments guys! and as always thanks for the help. i haven't test driven my car yet, but i hope to get some noticeable gain in handling...

Sometimes I think you have to be an athlete to work on cars. Like it has to be genetic and you have to have the right muscle structure and certain bone mass to do it.
Man, I can totally relate!! I have built a decent tool collection in the 28 years I've been driving, and am 6'-1"/200 so I figure I'm at least average strength, and yet it seems every project requires some kind of superhuman effort at some point.

One key tool acquisition I made when trying to remove an impossible crankshaft pulley bolt on my '91 Civic Si (timing belt job) - A Craftsman air impact wrench that generates over 600-lb reverse torque! That thing is SWEET! it's very compact too. Sears still sells it - I think it's about $189. Blew away my previous Costco impact set, which was junk.

Btw, it is also why I love cars so much because of the challenge (and fun) but sadly, I still probably won't even change my ATF by myself. Cars suck. :bawling:
Actually, changing the ATF was far easier than changing the oil for me. See my thread (early Feb) about changing the ATF @ 16K miles for tips. It's a piece of cake - anybody with a functioning brain stem can do it!! :thmsup:

a DIY for the ATF change would be nice. i'm suddenly paranoid :paranoid:

a DIY for the ATF change would be nice. i'm suddenly paranoid :paranoid:
Don't recall 7th gen I4 AT failing before, paranoia is useless :yes:

DIY
Remove the drain bolt with a 3/8" drive ratchet head (no socket)
Let fluid drain
Refill with 3 qts of ATF-Z1
Have a beer.

i got the fourth one off! i just used my finger :lmao:

im just playing. what i did was fill my 14 mm socket with 1500 PSI epoxy, and stick it over my rounded nut. i waited 40 minutes for it to set, then attached my ratchet to the socket, and voila. i wasted my socket, since it's permanently stuck to the nut, but that's just like $4. i went to o'reilly and got me a new set of 14 mm nuts, and it's good as new! i'll take pics later

Wow, that was a great idea. I never would have thought of that. Glad you got it off.

Don't recall 7th gen I4 AT failing before, paranoia is useless :yes:

DIY
Remove the drain bolt with a 3/8" drive ratchet head (no socket)
Let fluid drain
Refill with 3 qts of ATF-Z1
Have a beer.

Fantastic DIY, lol.

Don't recall 7th gen I4 AT failing before, paranoia is useless :yes:

DIY
Remove the drain bolt with a 3/8" drive ratchet head (no socket)
Let fluid drain
Refill with 3 qts of ATF-Z1
Have a beer.

i'm 18 :D no beer for me.
where is this drain bolt that you speak of? any pictures? it's below the car?

i'm 18 :D no beer for me.
where is this drain bolt that you speak of? any pictures? it's below the car?
It's below the car can't miss it. If you manage to miss the ONLY bolt on the car that accepts a 3/8" drive and is ROUND so that you can't remove it any other way, GO BUY A TOYOTA! (they use hex heads :) )

So where are the pics of your new stru bar :D

It's below the car can't miss it. If you manage to miss the ONLY bolt on the car that accepts a 3/8" drive and is ROUND so that you can't remove it any other way, GO BUY A TOYOTA! (they use hex heads :) )

lol i had to buy a huge hex for my vw, for the MTF change :(

So where are the pics of your new stru bar :D

probably tomorrow. cramming for biology test tonight :thumbsdow :D

probably tomorrow. cramming for biology test tonight :thumbsdow :D

Thermodynamics 4 Test Tomorrow..... :thumbsdow

Thermodynamics 4 Test Tomorrow..... :thumbsdow

good luck :D
i'm on a major caffeine break right now :thmsup:

lol i had to buy a huge hex for my vw, for the MTF change :(
For VW's, you need a hex socket to remove the brake caliper bracket for a rotor change, too! :thumbsdow Toyota's and Hondas are much easier to work on in comparison! :thmsup:

For VW's, you need a hex socket to remove the brake caliper bracket for a rotor change, too! :thumbsdow Toyota's and Hondas are much easier to work on in comparison! :thmsup:
Toyota's use a hex for the ATF drain, but then again they also say on the dipstick DO NOT REPLACE ATF (lifetime fill)

For VW's, you need a hex socket to remove the brake caliper bracket for a rotor change, too! :thumbsdow Toyota's and Hondas are much easier to work on in comparison! :thmsup:

i know don't remind me :headbash: i had to buy a huge set of hex bits that fit on a ratchet, and other random special tools. :nuts:

here's a pic. notice the halo on the upper right of the pic :lmao: