Iam still having the same vibration problem as before. (when at a stop while in drive the engine vibrates somtimes very bad) The dealer did the TSB 04-024 and the problem was still there, so I changed the exhuast "A "mount myself but still have this problem, today I went to another dealer and the service manger said he feels it also but theres nothing to be fixed. and gave me this can of "BG MI 3000® Plus" from the parts dept. and said to try this. The problem only happs when Iam in "drive" if I shift to "rev" its smooth so Iam thinking maybe its a bad motor mount. Iam going to have to try to fix this problem on my own after 3 different dealers telling me thats nothing is wrong. Any input or things to check I would appreciate.

after reading service bulletin 04-024
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=545

I decided to recheck to make sure the bulletin was actually done correctly by the dealer. As I checked I found out they only did "REPAIR PROCEDURE A" which is replace the front engine mount. (which I checked to see if it looked newer than the rear) When I removed the front bulkhead cover as the bulletin shows on "REAPIR PROCEDURE B....I removed the 2 top radiator brackets to see if it had the replacement "2 upper radiator mount washers" which come in the engine idle smoothing kit and they were not there. so Iam taking it that the "Engine Idle Smoothing Kit" part# 50830-SDA-999 was never installed which it should of been. I have ordered this kit and will install and post my findings.


pic of the kit is attached

I installed the "idle smoothing kit " today and it didn't make much of a difference with the problem Iam having, but my radiator is now more snug fit than before...Now Iam moving onto the motor mounts I found out when Iam in drive the motor is shaking so I took a pry bar and put it between the top of the rear motor mount bracket and rear motor mount and felt alot of vibration in pry bar and the inside of the car increased also as I moved it slight. (seems maybe this is my problem) I did the same to the front motor mount but the front seems to be ok. also checked the vacuum hose going to the front motor mount to make sure it was in good shape.

Today I checked the rear motor mount in detail I had to use a drop light and a mirror. Turns out the back of the mount is completly torn all around and the top of the mount has dropped creating a wide gap between the top mount bracket. In other words its shot and its shows... I can also see that this problem is creating another problem witch puts pressure on the "exhust A mount" as when the rear engine mount goes bad it makes the rear of the engine drop alot. So Iam going to order the rear engine mount and replace it this week and will post pics of the new and old.

Today I installed the new rear engine mount. It was very easy to replace, but to my surprise after I removed the last bolt holding it in place I noticed that the mount was completly torn in two pieces. After installing the new mount and torqueing all bolts to specs. My car is finally 100% vibration free and feels like it did when it was new :banana: After 3 different honda dealers telling me nothing was wrong and the vibration was normal, I wonder how many others are driving around with a mount in the condition which mine was in. I was determined to find the problem on my own after the dealers couldnt help me as I knew this was not a "normal vibration". below are the pics of the old and new. I hope this is the answer to the many who have that nasty vibration they cant locate.

new mount

I was wondering if an impact wrench was necessary to remove the bolts for the engine mount? Also, were there any other special tools needed. I would like to try this fix. I went to the local honda dealership with TSB 04-024 (idle vibration). Sure enough they told me my car's vibration is normal even though the car vibrates like crazy, esp with the ac on.

Also, how much did the rear engine mount cost, and the "exhaust mount A"? Thanks.

Today I installed the new rear engine mount. It was very easy to replace, but to my surprise after I removed the last bolt holding it in place I noticed that the mount was completly torn in two pieces. After installing the new mount and torqueing all bolts to specs. My car is finally 100% vibration free and feels like it did when it was new :banana: After 3 different honda dealers telling me nothing was wrong and the vibration was normal, I wonder how many others are driving around with a mount in the condition which mine was in. I was determined to find the problem on my own after the dealers couldnt help me as I knew this was not a "normal vibration". below are the pics of the old and new. I hope this is the answer to the many who have that nasty vibration they cant locate.

Wow, i am suprizeed the dealer missed that. The first thing to check on mounts is to see if any torns or rips as it very common for rubber to seperate from one of the metal mounts. You had right idea useing pry bar to try an raise mount support up,.
Anyway good to fixed it now go back an show dealer bad parts ;-)

I was wondering if an impact wrench was necessary to remove the bolts for the engine mount? Also, were there any other special tools needed. I would like to try this fix. I went to the local honda dealership with TSB 04-024 (idle vibration). Sure enough they told me my car's vibration is normal even though the car vibrates like crazy, esp with the ac on.

Also, how much did the rear engine mount cost, and the "exhaust mount A"? Thanks.

The rear mount was 67.85 and I also replaced the bracket that goes on top of it (#7 in the parts diagram) also replaced all mounting bolts and nuts. the exhaust A mount was around 10 bucks. the tools you may need is a 1/2 size drive socket extension set up (bolts were tight) and maybe a swivel to get in the tight areas. I would also get a toruque wrench if you want it perfect :D. jack the car up to take the pressure off the mount the whole job took maybe 15 mins if that. Another quick way to see if the rear mount is ripped due to its hard to see back there.... is to rub you hand around where the top mount bolts up you should feel the rip. Good luck

Wow, i am suprizeed the dealer missed that. The first thing to check on mounts is to see if any torns or rips as it very common for rubber to seperate from one of the metal mounts. You had right idea useing pry bar to try an raise mount support up,.
Anyway good to fixed it now go back an show dealer bad parts ;-)

I was thinking about going to the "3 dealers that missed that :thumbsdow" and showing them but they probly wouldnt care or they may put a warrenty in and get paid for it.

I need to look into this too. I have a MT and in 1st and reverse the car shutters. Doesnt happen in any other gear and rides smooth as silk on the road. Just made a 1700 mile trip from ND to AL. Had my dad and my wife drive it and neither felt it. Might be cause they give it alot more gas than I do. I dont know, but now that I am settled into my new house, I can take the time to thoroughly check all the mounts.

Back in the day my wife's Fragalier, I replaced 2 seperate mounts, so I know what a bad mount feels like.

Today I installed the new rear engine mount. It was very easy to replace, but to my surprise after I removed the last bolt holding it in place I noticed that the mount was completly torn in two pieces. After installing the new mount and torqueing all bolts to specs. My car is finally 100% vibration free and feels like it did when it was new :banana: After 3 different honda dealers telling me nothing was wrong and the vibration was normal, I wonder how many others are driving around with a mount in the condition which mine was in. I was determined to find the problem on my own after the dealers couldnt help me as I knew this was not a "normal vibration". below are the pics of the old and new. I hope this is the answer to the many who have that nasty vibration they cant locate.Good detective work on your part. Crappy dealership service, I’d be getting a hold of the Honda regional rep and letting them know how incapable the local Honda service departments are!

If you were paying to have them check it out & they missed it, then you should be due a refund of those fees!

I really hate to hear that there are so many stupid dealers out there! I know there are, but it's still awful to hear!

Most of us only have a 25% chance of having a repair done right the first time. That's sad!

On the other hand if we take ourselves to a doctor & it takes several tries to figure out what's wrong, we accept it they're just persistent in their efforts.:dunno: Maybe if there were some sort of malpractice insurance in the service field it would help...:dunno:

Don't get me wrong, I'm not comparing the service people to doctors, I'm just saying how our attitude changes depending on the situation. Personally, I'm tired of no one figuring out what's wrong with me. I'm a lemon!:D I've made many complaints to the manufacturer!:yes:

I'm so glad you found the problem! This should help others! Thank you for taking the time to share!!!:thmsup:

Its seems like all the good "old techs" who used to looked for the problem instead of being a parts replacer are retireing and the techs taking there place these days are just taking the easy way out and saying thats norm or do the process of limiate by changing parts.....very sad. Iam one of those "old tech" :D (Honda motorcycle tech) and even in the motorcycle bussiness its the same thing the new guys just want to blow the job out without thinking and fixing the problem right. But all those short cuts are costing the dealer losing customers and one day it will all catch up. I know about the flat rate and how they are paid but if they just took the time to find the problem next time that same problem comes in they will already know what the problem is but they dont understand that :dunno: There are still alot of good techs out there but finding them is the problem. Thats just how I feel what is happ to the service end of the dealerships these days and Iam glad we have this forum so there is a another route to help others who have come to a dead end with the dealer.