Aug.1.07

Hi. Do any Accord 2007 drivers recommend rustproofing the new car using Krown or Ziebart. THe car will be driven a lot in salty wintery conditions.
Thanks for any info and suggestions.

Rust proofing, especially with the thin, penetrating type of material like Krown never hurts, I have an 11 year old Integra that I spray Krown or RustCheck every other year, it's still rust free even at the vunerable areas like the rear fender wheel well opening even though I've seen a number of Integra that have suffered major rusting in that same area.

It will add much value to your car when you sell it many years down the road.

Now if you don't intend to keep the car for more than 3 years, then don't bother as the car would not have developed rust yet, and you will barely benefit only from a knoweldgeable buyer who can appreciate the benefit of rustproofing, if you plan to trade the car in to a dealership in that same 3 or 4 year time frame, then definitely don't bother as the dealership will give you nothing for the rustproofing.

Consumer Reports consistently recommends against adding rust treatment. The anti-corrosion aspects of design and material selection for cars in the last 10 years or so preclude the need for rust treatments. When was the last time you saw a 10 year old car with rust "cancer" as was seen in the old days?

Recommend that you save your money. Keep your car clean and get your undercarriage rinsed at a car wash periodically during the winter months.

From cars.com:
rustproofing and paint protection: All new cars are built with rust-resistant galvanized steel (or aluminum or fiberglass) and treated with a rustproofing agent at the factory. Experts say dealer-applied rustproofing is unnecessary, at best.

I agree with Bill and TX.....no need for rust proofing these days.

When was the last time you saw a 10 year old car with rust "cancer" as was seen in the old days?

Remember the OP indicated the car will be driven in salty winter conditions.

As a Toronto area driver, I can use the example of a 97 Integra a co-worker drove for some 8 years until he got rid of it two months ago, it had rust in all the vunerable places, front and rear wheel openings, bottom of the doors, trunk openings. He couldn't understand why my 1996 Integra looks like the day it came off the dealership and his car had that much rust.

Keep your car clean and get your undercarriage rinsed at a car wash periodically during the winter months.

Very good advise even with the rust proofing.

I found while the exterior body panels of the cars have been built with much higher quality steel and treatment in recent years, there are still areas that's not visible by the average consumer where the manufacturer still cheap out, one example is the steel substructure for the front and rear bumpers, you would be surprised the rust building up on them on a car that's a few years old while the exterior panels are still nice, shiny and rust free.

From Consumer Reports:

"Sometimes dealerships will give you a good deal on the basic car but try to make up for it by selling you options and add-ons. Don't pay for extras you don't need.

Rust proofing, paint sealant, or fabric treatments are common add-ons you may be offered. Today's vehicles receive excellent corrosion treatments at the factory, making additional treatments unnecessary. In fact, according to Consumer Reports reliability surveys, rust has ceased to be a big problem with cars in general."

I agree with the above with one exception...

If your car has a body panel strengthening fold inside the wheel arch that forms a horizontal shelf for road salt to sit on, then blend it out to at least 60 degrees (topside) with some sort of rubberised compound.. I always use Shultz, but I don't know what's available in the US.. :)
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I agree with the above with one exception...

If your car has a body panel strengthening fold inside the wheel arch that forms a horizontal shelf for road salt to sit on, then blend it out to at least 60 degrees (topside) with some sort of rubberised compound.. I always use Shultz, but I don't know what's available in the US.. :)
.


You mean Schutz:), it's available here in the US from 3M, excellent product, BMW used it in the 80's on the rockers, front and rear valences to add durability to the finish. The stuff is so strong that after it has cured, the
only way to remove it is with a grinder.

In regards to rust prevention, if used in moderation in areas that are
vulnerable to rust, like the rear arches, it can't hurt. You run into problems when Ziebart goes nuts on a car and over does it, especially on suv's and trucks when they get it all over the drive shaft.

While I know I am of the minority here on the opinion on rustproofing, I will continue to provide my thoughts as we are all entitled to our opinions, as long as they are not obnoxius.

Another area where regular rust proofing (the thin stuff, not the thick tar or wax-oil type product) would help greatly is for the fuel and brake lines underneatch the car.

I was told by both the co-worker and someone else looking at buying my Integra that it cost them some $1,600 to have these lines replaced because they were corroded sitting there under the car being battered by salt and sand etc. every winter.

A small investment of regular spray of this stuff will go a long way in the long term.

BTW, I do not advocate getting paint treatment or fabric treatment from the dealership, that is a total waste of money with no real benefit, I wouldn't advocate getting rust proofing from dealership either, as while (in my opinion) it is of value, it is a rip-off getting it done through the dealership, these are where the dealership makes the most amount of profit.