Ramon
09-16-2007, 09:05 PM
I had previously posted here about the possibility of powering LED interior lights via the ignition key light so that they would automatically turn on and off with the rest of the car's interior lighting. I was interested in the key light in particular because it's a lot more accessible than the overhead map lights, which would normally be the most logical way to connect additional interior LED's. I finally got around to finishing my "experiment" and I'm pleased to report that it works! :thmsup: I now have an auxiliary 12V source under the dash that can be used for any type of lighting, and it responds automatically to things like opening/closing of any door, alarm arming/disarming, and turning the ignition on/off (basically everything the key light normally responds to). Here's a quick rundown, with photos below to hopefully further illustrate what I did:
Fuses: First thing I did was remove fuse #13 in the under-dash fusebox to cut power to the ignition key light. In addition, I also ended up removing fuse #13 in the engine compartment fusebox (just happened to be the same number); This is apparently for the horn, and I accidentally shorted it :eek: while working in the steering column area.
Steering Column: The top half of the steering column cover just snaps off by pushing up on it, and the bottom half of the cover drops off after removing three screws from underneath. With the covers removed, I was able to disconnect the green ignition key light connector by depressing the release tab on its back-side.
Connector: Power for the ignition key light is provided by #5 (white/black, ground) and #6 (red, 12V positive), so these are the two wires that I tapped into. I just used 2-conductor speaker wire (20 or 22 gauge, I think) since I don't expect to draw a lot of current for interior LED's, and also because that's what I had available. If anyone knows of any reason I shouldn't have used this wire, please let me know. Otherwise, I'm just assuming it'll be fine.
Testing: At this point, all of the electrical work was essentially done, so I did some final checks before closing up. First, I reattached the connector and made sure that my ignition key light was still working. Second, I connected the new circuit to my multimeter to see how it behaves; the results are shown in the photos below.
Reassembly: After securing my new wire (used zip ties at three or four locations to make sure it didn't move around and rattle :rolleyes: ), it was just a matter of putting everything back together.
Many thanks to Princess for providing the wiring diagrams!
Anyway, I hope someone finds this useful. I'm quite pleased with the outcome, although I haven't decided yet what kind of lighting to hook up. I guess that'll be my next set of experiments..... :wave:
Fuses: First thing I did was remove fuse #13 in the under-dash fusebox to cut power to the ignition key light. In addition, I also ended up removing fuse #13 in the engine compartment fusebox (just happened to be the same number); This is apparently for the horn, and I accidentally shorted it :eek: while working in the steering column area.
Steering Column: The top half of the steering column cover just snaps off by pushing up on it, and the bottom half of the cover drops off after removing three screws from underneath. With the covers removed, I was able to disconnect the green ignition key light connector by depressing the release tab on its back-side.
Connector: Power for the ignition key light is provided by #5 (white/black, ground) and #6 (red, 12V positive), so these are the two wires that I tapped into. I just used 2-conductor speaker wire (20 or 22 gauge, I think) since I don't expect to draw a lot of current for interior LED's, and also because that's what I had available. If anyone knows of any reason I shouldn't have used this wire, please let me know. Otherwise, I'm just assuming it'll be fine.
Testing: At this point, all of the electrical work was essentially done, so I did some final checks before closing up. First, I reattached the connector and made sure that my ignition key light was still working. Second, I connected the new circuit to my multimeter to see how it behaves; the results are shown in the photos below.
Reassembly: After securing my new wire (used zip ties at three or four locations to make sure it didn't move around and rattle :rolleyes: ), it was just a matter of putting everything back together.
Many thanks to Princess for providing the wiring diagrams!
Anyway, I hope someone finds this useful. I'm quite pleased with the outcome, although I haven't decided yet what kind of lighting to hook up. I guess that'll be my next set of experiments..... :wave: