Got my new 08 EX-L V6 last Friday and wanted to know if anyone has added a AMP and sub to the factory 270W system. Any preamp outputs on the back of the factory head unit? Any instructions on how to get access to the rear of the head unit? Pics? Anyone know where the factory Amp is, if there is one? Under a seat?:dunno:

Thanks,
Phil

Hey Phil,

It is a fairely new car so not much people will know about the 08 version. However, you can go ahead and try it. Be the first. Keep us updated.


Got my new 08 EX-L V6 last Friday and wanted to know if anyone has added a AMP and sub to the factory 270W system. Any preamp outputs on the back of the factory head unit? Any instructions on haw to get access to the rear of the head unit? Pics? Anyone know where the factory Amp is, if there is one? Under a seat?:dunno:

Thanks,
Phil

Hey Phil, Looking to do the same. What i was planning to do was hook up a line convert from the rear sub for a live output, and connect that to my amp, so i can use the stock radio to control the bass for the sub only since it comes with a sub adjuster so it doesn't effect the interior bass.

But i haven't looked at anything yet. I will be looking into it this weekend hopefully, and will take pictures if i do or let you know some details on it.

I am also looking to turn the navi screen into a tv, but not sure if the 07 devices work on our model. What i was thinking was using the hardness that is sitting from the rear cam, not sure if anyone here will know if this will work, tapping a rca jack to the hardness for the rear cam.

If you do any work, would also appreciate any feedback.
Thanks

there is no pre amp outputs on the stock HU, you will have to hook up a line out converter. Also, I am 99% sure that there is no amp (except the headunit it self) in your 08. I forget how to take it apart, but I will post a how-to once I get to work tomorrow. I have the info there.

Thanks, i would appreciate that.

there is no pre amp outputs on the stock HU, you will have to hook up a line out converter. Also, I am 99% sure that there is no amp (except the headunit it self) in your 08. I forget how to take it apart, but I will post a how-to once I get to work tomorrow. I have the info there.

Aww, man. That was going to be one of the things I wanted to ask about the 7th Gens (or ANY Gen). Good thing I have an adaptor. Just need the power wire, and I'm good.

Hey Phil,

It is a fairely new car so not much people will know about the 08 version. However, you can go ahead and try it. Be the first. Keep us updated.

Just wanted to let you guys know that we have just completed a system install in to the new 08 Accord using the factory Head unit. We had some issues but with a lot of trouble shooting we got it up and running and sounding really good. We did a full Alpine Type R system in the car. We installed line converters for the RCA inputs and two Alpine amps and two 12 inch Alpine subs. If you guys do this your self please make sure that you disconnect the radio microphones that control the sound when you are driving. The first one is located inside where your front roof lights and sunglass holder is located. The second microphone is located on the driver’s side just above the back seat. There is a pin-hole there so you can see where it is located. Disconnect these or you will get a lot of engine noise. All of our issues came from the microphones, other then that you are good to go.

Andre

Thats good to know. How much room did you lose in the trunk? (If any room at all.)

Just wanted to let you guys know that we have just completed a system install in to the new 08 Accord using the factory Head unit. We had some issues but with a lot of trouble shooting we got it up and running and sounding really good. We did a full Alpine Type R system in the car. We installed line converters for the RCA inputs and two Alpine amps and two 12 inch Alpine subs. If you guys do this your self please make sure that you disconnect the radio microphones that control the sound when you are driving. The first one is located inside where your front roof lights and sunglass holder is located. The second microphone is located on the driver’s side just above the back seat. There is a pin-hole there so you can see where it is located. Disconnect these or you will get a lot of engine noise. All of our issues came from the microphones, other then that you are good to go.

Andre


SO if you have the navi you no longer can use the mic's/voice activated crap?? Or i have blue tooth too, what then?

Thats good to know. How much room did you lose in the trunk? (If any room at all.)

Not too much at all. We had a custom box made so that it was flush against the back seat. I would recommend getting a custom box. Mainly because of the shape of the drunk your normal 2 x 12 inch sub enclosure won’t slide all the way back against the seat.

Andre

SO if you have the navi you no longer can use the mic's/voice activated crap?? Or i have blue tooth too, what then?

This car did not have navigation in it. I'm sure if it did have navigation we would not disconnect the microphone that goes to the Bluetooth system. That is separate from the ones that i am talking about. The ones that we unhooked are the ones that go to the radio volume. Basically your radio automatically adjusts the volume as you drive so that you don’t have to keep turning it up due to road noise. Those microphones have nothing to do with the Bluetooth system what so ever.

This car did not have navigation in it. I'm sure if it did have navigation we would not disconnect the microphone that goes to the Bluetooth system. That is separate from the ones that i am talking about. The ones that we unhooked are the ones that go to the radio volume. Basically your radio automatically adjusts the volume as you drive so that you don’t have to keep turning it up due to road noise. Those microphones have nothing to do with the Bluetooth system what so ever.

OoOo!!! IC what your talking about now, makes sense. Thanks.

Actually i had a question but not sure who i should ask. For the AMP pre-out that connected to rear speaks for a signal, i see that they required a left+right speaker. Anyway of using the wires for the SUB for both left/right?? The reason i would like to setup this way is to use the radios sub control only to control the bass for subs, not the interiors.

Thanks

OoOo!!! IC what your talking about now, makes sense. Thanks.

Actually i had a question but not sure who i should ask. For the AMP pre-out that connected to rear speaks for a signal, i see that they required a left+right speaker. Anyway of using the wires for the SUB for both left/right?? The reason i would like to setup this way is to use the radios sub control only to control the bass for subs, not the interiors.

Thanks


I know while we were doing this system we ended up haveing to tap in to the front speakers for the sub signal due to engine noise. But that was before we figured out the second mic problem.

I can ask one of the installers about that. Im sure that you could tap in to the rear sub and pull signal from that now that we know where the noise was really coming from.

One other thing make sure you get a line converter that has adjusments on it. The signal from the factory radio is kinda of weak so you need somethng that can amplify the signal.

Cool thats for the info

Just wanted to let you guys know that we have just completed a system install in to the new 08 Accord using the factory Head unit. We had some issues but with a lot of trouble shooting we got it up and running and sounding really good. We did a full Alpine Type R system in the car. We installed line converters for the RCA inputs and two Alpine amps and two 12 inch Alpine subs. If you guys do this your self please make sure that you disconnect the radio microphones that control the sound when you are driving. The first one is located inside where your front roof lights and sunglass holder is located. The second microphone is located on the driver’s side just above the back seat. There is a pin-hole there so you can see where it is located. Disconnect these or you will get a lot of engine noise. All of our issues came from the microphones, other then that you are good to go.

Andre

this is only for the ex-l model correct? because it has voice command? i have an 08 ex v6 sedan...i don't think there a mics in my car...

this is only for the ex-l model correct? because it has voice command? i have an 08 ex v6 sedan...i don't think there a mics in my car...


The mics he is talking about are for the radio. Its suppose to pick up road noise and higher the volume automatically if there is alot of road noise. I think your model should have it also, but it did not effect my system at all, i just installed mine over the weekend, but a bit differently...

sorry for the late reply guys, here are the instructions to disassembling the dash on the 08's:

2008 Honda Accord Dash Disassembly - The new body-style Honda Accord is very similar to the previous version, it can look intimidating, however the disassembly is pretty easy.

1.) Remove center console trim (from power outlet to just behind cup holder) by lifting up. It is held in with plastic clips. Easy spot to grab is inside the cup holder assembly.

2.) Remove pocket below radio by removing four (4) screws, two (2) on the upper inside portion of the pocket, and two (2) below where the center console trim previously was.

3.) Remove trim panel on each side of radio. Short small section with slots cut into it above driver-side knee panel, and long section above glove box.

4.) Remove four (4) screws holding in radio, two(2) on each side where the previously mentioned trim panels were, and two (2) underneath radio where the pocket was removed from.

5.) Remove radio by pushing on the rear of the now exposed radio chassis, out towards the rear of the vehicle. Radio is held in with plastic clips.

Microphones are also used for ANC if equipped.

Thanks for all the info everyone. Keep it coming.:thmsup:

Andre, (a.k.a. DuvalHondaToyz)

Just like GigaS27 I'm wanting to use the factory Sub output as the high level input on my line converter. Just wanted to know if I should use the Right+ and Left- or vice versa on the line converter or just use either Right +and- or Left +and- or should I look for a converter with a Sub/Mono input? I've got a 2 channel Kicker amp and one 12" Kicker Comp. that I'm going to use in bridged mode. Still need to build a new box for it to sit behind the seat. I bought a PAC OEM-2 http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=751&i=127OEM2&search=pac+oem&tp=3486 when I was originally going to buy a 07 Camry "THANK GOD THAT FELL THROUGH I DON'T KNOW WHAT I WAS THINKING" Hopefully I should be able to use it.

Also I now there is a way to turn off the auto volume increase/decrease control in the radio settings, but is that just determined by speed. I thought I heard somewhere that those microphones pick up road noise from inside the cabin and send out pink/white noise or something like that to drowned out the road noise, ever hear of that? Where did you disconnect the two microphones?

Thanks again everyone.

Phil

Thanks for all the info everyone. Keep it coming.:thmsup:

Andre, (a.k.a. DuvalHondaToyz)

Just like GigaS27 I'm wanting to use the factory Sub output as the high level input on my line converter. Just wanted to know if I should use the Right+ and Left- or vice versa on the line converter or just use either Right +and- or Left +and- or should I look for a converter with a Sub/Mono input? I've got a 2 channel Kicker amp and one 12" Kicker Comp. that I'm going to use in bridged mode. Still need to build a new box for it to sit behind the seat. I bought a PAC OEM-2 http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=751&i=127OEM2&search=pac+oem&tp=3486 when I was originally going to buy a 07 Camry "THANK GOD THAT FELL THROUGH I DON'T KNOW WHAT I WAS THINKING" Hopefully I should be able to use it.

Also I now there is a way to turn off the auto volume increase/decrease control in the radio settings, but is that just determined by speed. I thought I heard somewhere that those microphones pick up road noise from inside the cabin and send out pink/white noise or something like that to drowned out the road noise, ever hear of that? Where did you disconnect the two microphones?

Thanks again everyone.

Phil

Phil,

I have 2 12" kickers and a 2 channel amp i used and i bridged it for the subs. I did not disabled the mics and i have no problems. The SVC i believe setting is what make the radio turn up as more road noise is heard in the car, but you can always turn that off by going thru the sound options in your radio, i left mine ad med.

This is how i set mine up. I ran a power cable from bat to amp. Then for remote wire, i ran a wire from fuse box (With a separate fuse connected) to the remote on amp. Then i grabbed the (+) from sub and connected to both + on line converter, and the (-) from factory sub wire to both - on converter. Connected to amp and now i can control the bass with the sub control, and my interior bas with the regular bass control in factory radio.

No other connecting needed, no center dash disassembly.

Good Luck!

GigaS27,

Cool, Thanks for the info. Did you totally unhook your Factory Sub (I assume you did) or did you connect off of the sub terminals? Did you have to run a power and ground for your line converter?

Thanks again,:notworthy
Phil

GigaS27,

Cool, Thanks for the info. Did you totally unhook your Factory Sub (I assume you did) or did you connect off of the sub terminals? Did you have to run a power and ground for your line converter?

Thanks again,:notworthy
Phil


I did because i am planning to take the sub completely out so it creates a hole for the bass to travel through :thmsup:. But if i wanted i could have it connected also but not worth it. The line converter i use requires no power/ground, it recieves it from the speakers. You should have instructions with your line converter when you purchase it.

Just take your time, and if u need help just ask someone here during the install.

Good Luck!!! :nuts:

GigaS27,

I was wondering if leaving the sub connected would affect the line signal going to the amp? :dunno:

The line converter I have has a power and ground which I will run from the AMP power and ground. Then It has a remote input that only requires a 0.8v input in order to give a 12v output for the amp turn on. Since it only requires 0.8v it says that you can hook it up to a + side of a speaker to trigger the 12v output. A great way to have a remote amp turn on wire without having to hard wire one from the front fuse pannel. This line converter can be used in many different configurations, maybe overkill for what I'm doing but it's already bought and paid for non the less. I've installed several systems in other vehicles but usally using the preamp outputs from the head unit.

Should be pretty easy, running the Power and ground will be the hardest part.

Phil

Honestly, i'm on the same page as you. This is the first time i used a line converter so i know nothing about them, but my only suggestion is if u wanna connect it, listen for the bass note and see if it sounds distorted or off pitch.

Nothin hurts to try unless u reverse polarity :paranoid:

Let me know how it turns out

Will do. Hopefully I get some warm days this winter. It's freezing outside here in STL, MO. At least it gives me time to build a new box.:thmsup:

Phil

Pics? I've yet to see someone install in a 2008 Accord and would love to see pics! Using the sub as a hi-level input, I'm curious as to the sound? OEM's typically lower the bass as volume increases to keep the the stock speakers from blowing. I run a RF 3sixty in my Ridgeline due to this to flatten out factory EQ curves. Hows it sound? :thmsup:

Pics? I've yet to see someone install in a 2008 Accord and would love to see pics! Using the sub as a hi-level input, I'm curious as to the sound? OEM's typically lower the bass as volume increases to keep the the stock speakers from blowing. I run a RF 3sixty in my Ridgeline due to this to flatten out factory EQ curves. Hows it sound? :thmsup:


My Setup (http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=13979)

Click on that link you will find what i did to make the setup.

Also for pics check this link out: Pics (http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=14138)

As to the sound? Well one, the bass is so much more crisp and the note of it is way better then factory setup of course as you probably already know. But honestly i haven't notice the bass lower itself as the volume increases, but then again paid no attention to this, so i could be wrong. But hey, if i havn't noticed it yet, then it must be ok :thumbsup:

Anyways, I would recommend anyone that might be thinking about do this to go ahead and make the move, you will not regret it!


BTW, pics aren't the greatest, but when i get a chance i'll take some nice pics of the whole setup of my car...currently still doing some extra mod's to it, and its winter time here, so once winter starts to die out, i should have some nice pics.

Got my new 08 EX-L V6 last Friday and wanted to know if anyone has added a AMP and sub to the factory 270W system. Any preamp outputs on the back of the factory head unit? Any instructions on how to get access to the rear of the head unit? Pics? Anyone know where the factory Amp is, if there is one? Under a seat?:dunno:

Thanks,
Phil

How does it drive? I am always curious how the new styles compare to the 2004s

How does it drive? I am always curious how the new styles compare to the 2004s

Actually thats funny you got an 04, my girlfriend has the 04 as well and i love driving her car, but i like mine as well. To be honest, between the 2, the thing i like better is rear of the car compared to mine, the features i have (Navi, AUX input) and not much more....I mean the car drives smooth, but i like how her's drives also, but mine of course has more punch on the accelerator :banana:

Added some additional pics HERE (http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=14138&page=2)

GigaS27,

Where did you mount your converter? Also, where did you go through the firewall for your Amp power cable. Pics of either or both would be great.

I'm gettin' pumped about this install!!!:banana:

Thanks,
Phil

Converter was mounted next to sub on the top deck. As for the power cable routing, heh, you could probably find a better solution then i used....i had to take some plastic clip out and then ran the cable thru there, but not sure what it was covered for...i'll try to get a pic of it sometime this week.

GigaS27,

Was it the plug for the clutch pedal? Just a guess, I haven't even looked for a spot yet. Ordered a new box and a 6AWG Amp install kit. Both should be here by Friday. Anyway did you get a chance to get a pic of your wire route?

Thanks,
Phil

GigaS27,

Was it the plug for the clutch pedal? Just a guess, I haven't even looked for a spot yet. Ordered a new box and a 6AWG Amp install kit. Both should be here by Friday. Anyway did you get a chance to get a pic of your wire route?

Thanks,
Phil

Sorry i havn't, will try to do it during lunch tomorrow if it doesn't rain here. Not sure exactly what it was, but its working :biggrin:

Got a pic of it this morning, i will post it later tonight with a description.. :thmsup:

Ok the is located right behind the steering wheel, a bit lower. 2nd pic you can see where i circled it, and in yellow and where the hole is(located next to some wiring). There is a black cap closing the hole which i took out.

Good luck:

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o102/gigas27/Cable1.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o102/gigas27/Cable2.jpg

GigaS27,

Looks like a good place to me. Nice and high and easy to get to.:thmsup: Thanks for the pics. What size wire did you use for your amp, and where did you ground it?

Phil

8GA. and grounded under the rear seat to a bolt located on the drivers side. Also by taking the rear bench apart, was easier to route the cable.

BTW that hole should take a 4GA wire also with no problem. Maybe bigger!

I found a good spot tonight to run the Amp cable through. I will drill and insert a gromet. Here are some pics from inside and out.

Inside there is a cut out in the insulation that is easily pulled back and easy to get to.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/phildac/DCP_1256.jpg

Here is a pic of the outside location. It is to the left hand side of the brake buster just below the extrusion in the sheet metal. The Red dot.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/phildac/DCP_1253b.jpg

Here is a more descriptive pic.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/phildac/DCP_1255b.jpg

Cool keep us posted :banana:

Cool, mine was located to the left of that

GigaS27,

On the factory sub wiring, which side is positive + the Blue or White wire? I looked at the sub and connector and couldn't see any indication. I thought maybe blue but wasn't sure. I'm hooking up the line convertor.

Thanks again
Phil

GigaS27,

On the factory sub wiring, which side is positive + the Blue or White wire? I looked at the sub and connector and couldn't see any indication. I thought maybe blue but wasn't sure. I'm hooking up the line convertor.

Thanks again
Phil

Use a multi meter to see which one has voltage...both might have voltage, but the real positive should be a bit higher.

I'll see if i can take a look at it tonight and let you know later.

Just wanted to let you guys know that we have just completed a system install in to the new 08 Accord using the factory Head unit. We had some issues but with a lot of trouble shooting we got it up and running and sounding really good. We did a full Alpine Type R system in the car. We installed line converters for the RCA inputs and two Alpine amps and two 12 inch Alpine subs. If you guys do this your self please make sure that you disconnect the radio microphones that control the sound when you are driving. The first one is located inside where your front roof lights and sunglass holder is located. The second microphone is located on the driver’s side just above the back seat. There is a pin-hole there so you can see where it is located. Disconnect these or you will get a lot of engine noise. All of our issues came from the microphones, other then that you are good to go.

Andre

I've been dealing with weird sounds coming from speakers for about a month now after i added a sub and amp. The stereo shop was trying all kinds of stuff to filter these sounds out. After i read your post I let the shop know and the problem was solved! :thumbsup: It was a first for them. Thanks.

Phildac, where's the photo's?! Hope it all went well...

Phildac, where's the photo's?! Hope it all went well...

I'm waiting on the 4AWG AMP install kit. Also, were you able to see which wire was positive on the factory sub connection Blue or White I checked with a VOM but got the same either way 0.03vdc. Maybe I should have used the chassis ground to test with, might try that tomorrow? I should get the kit on Wednesday next week. The first kit I bought was a piece of $h1T.:thumbsdow

I did get the Sub box and mounted the Sub and AMP. Here is a pic of the box in the trunk minus the sub.

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/phildac/DCP_1251.jpg

sorry for the late reply guys, here are the instructions to disassembling the dash on the 08's:

2008 Honda Accord Dash Disassembly - The new body-style Honda Accord is very similar to the previous version, it can look intimidating, however the disassembly is pretty easy.

1.) Remove center console trim (from power outlet to just behind cup holder) by lifting up. It is held in with plastic clips. Easy spot to grab is inside the cup holder assembly.

2.) Remove pocket below radio by removing four (4) screws, two (2) on the upper inside portion of the pocket, and two (2) below where the center console trim previously was.

3.) Remove trim panel on each side of radio. Short small section with slots cut into it above driver-side knee panel, and long section above glove box.

4.) Remove four (4) screws holding in radio, two(2) on each side where the previously mentioned trim panels were, and two (2) underneath radio where the pocket was removed from.

5.) Remove radio by pushing on the rear of the now exposed radio chassis, out towards the rear of the vehicle. Radio is held in with plastic clips.


searched high and low and couldn't find any other info on how to dismantle and 08 dash and console. THANK YOU!

Nice fit on that box...looks like its going to be a nice setup. Good luck and keep us posted!

I got the Line Convertor mounted and connected today. I checked the voltage on the factory sub connector and both Positive and Negative put out @ 5.5vdc each. I used the chassis ground this time. I hooked it up using the blue as the positive and the white as the negative. I ran RCA's from the line convertor to my amp in my truck to test and it really seemed to have alot of power. I turned the gain on the line convertor to about 50% and the factory stereo to -6 on the Sub output. Can't wait to get the Amp install kit.:yes:

no prob rockstar143!

also, the best way to check polarity on the sub is to take a 9v battery and attach wires to the terminals (solder them, tape them, whatever, it is only needed for a couple minutes) And remember which is positive and negative. Disconnect the factory sub, and take the wires you attached to the 9v, and touch them to the terminals on the sub. If the sub moves out, you have the right polarity, if it moves in, you have reverse polarity. The reason for this is the sub is made to run on AC voltage, which alternates back and forth, if you take a battery (DC voltage) and attach it, the sub will move in one direction only. It will not hurt the sub at all to do this, just make sure you don't have it connected to the amp when doing this, as the voltage may affect the amp (it shouldn't, but couldn't hurt to be safe). Also, don't leave the battery attached to the sub for more than a couple seconds so that the battery doesn't go bad. You can do this with a AA battery as well, but since it is 1.5 volts, it will not move much. Either way, I would recommend having a friend help hold the wires to the battery while you touch them to the sub.

HTH

GigaS27,

I have the amp power cable through the firewall and hooked up minus the fuse. I have routed the cable along the door sill front to back but now need some help on how you ran your cable from the back seat sill into the trunk.

I thought I remembered reading somewhere that you unbolted the seat bottom for easier access?:dunno: Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Phil

Good stuff. Driver side, shove your hand in between the bottom and top half of rear seat, you will see a bolt (10mm maybe?) Take that out, and then just pull on the whole bottom half to the seat, everything else is held with clips should just pop right off. Than just run cabling under the plastics that follow under the seat and fold down seat and shove cable under the to the rear.



Hope you understood that...lol

Trust me its easier than it reading :yes:

GigaS27,

Should I be looking for the bolt from the back seat or from in the trunk I'm assuming from the back seat? After it is out do I pull the seat up or forward toward the front seat? I assume up. Hoping to have everything done this weekend with pictures.:banana:

Thanks again for the info.:thmsup:

Phil

Front inside the car, not trunk. Just pull up on the seat once the bolt was taken out.

Thanks, just wanted to clarify before I started tearing into it.:thmsup:

Phil

Finally finished the install this morning. Sounds pretty good so far but could use some tweaking. Here's some pics of the box.:banana:

GigaS27, Thanks again for all of your help.:thmsup:

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/phildac/DCP_1271.jpg

Still need to tie up the RCA's
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/phildac/DCP_1270.jpg

Here's how I did it... Step by step... pretty much the same way as GigaS27.

1. Remove rear seat bottom bolt. (Drivers side-just to the right of the belt latches.)
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b367/QuickPuppy/IMG_4295.jpg

2. Pull rear seat up from the back. Start at the corners and work to the middle. Push the belt latches through as you go. You don't have to pull the seat all the way out. (I couldn't figure out the two clips on the front so I did not flip it all the way up for fear of breaking them.)
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b367/QuickPuppy/IMG_4270-1.jpg

3. Remove Drivers Side Rear Sill. Use of a trim removal tool is recommended. See pics for location of the clips.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b367/QuickPuppy/IMG_4272-1.jpg

4. Remove the trunk key lock cover (Pry off) then remover small screw.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b367/QuickPuppy/IMG_4274.jpg

5. Remove Drivers Side Front Sill. See pics for location of the clips.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b367/QuickPuppy/IMG_4275.jpg

6. Locate grommet in firewall and push it through from the inside into the engine bay. It is located just below the wire bundle that is above the gas pedal. In the pics I have already removed it.
Here it is from the inside:
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b367/QuickPuppy/IMG_4285.jpg
And from the engine bay: It's in the dead center of this pic. The small white dot below the "1" in the ID number.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b367/QuickPuppy/IMG_4281.jpg

7. Drill a hole in the grommet and feed power cable through it. Feed the cable back into the interior and put the grommet back into place. Run the cable down the side sill to the trunk.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b367/QuickPuppy/IMG_4293.jpg
This pic also show the amp's Ground wire, run from the trunk to a bolt that holds the Rear Seat Back down. (Yellow wire at center)
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b367/QuickPuppy/IMG_4290.jpg

8. I connected the Power cable (Red wire) to the main engine bay fuse panel's 12 volt Input. The yellow wire is the same as the Red one in the prior pictures. It's just on the other side of a fuse.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b367/QuickPuppy/IMG_4294.jpg

10. For my Switched power 12V source I used the same "Extra Accessory" Buss connector from Auto Zone that GigaS27 used. I cut off the butt connector and spliced in my Remote Turn On Wire (Blue). I connected it to unused fuse buss #1 in the Drivers side fuse panel and ran the wire down the side sill to the trunk.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b367/QuickPuppy/IMG_4296.jpg

11. To convert the car's subwoofer speaker signal to my amp I used a Line Converter from Best Buy. I twisted the two positive wires together and the two negative wires together. I cut a fuse apart to get the pins out of it, soldered them to the line converter wires and used them to connect to the subwoofer harness. It's not a perfect fit, but with some tape it is not going anywhere. BTW, the Gray sub wire is positive and the blue is negative. I connected the wires and zip tied the convertor to the Nav system mount tray.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b367/QuickPuppy/IMG_4297.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b367/QuickPuppy/IMG_4299.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b367/QuickPuppy/IMG_4302.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b367/QuickPuppy/IMG_4303.jpg

12. Plug everything into the amp and test it out. I still need to play around with the level adjustment on the head unit, line converter, and amp to get things dialed in correctly. It sounds much better than just the factory sub.

The box was one I made for my old Integra GSR. The back is slanted and the angle happens to be identical to the one in the GSR so it fit flush with the seatback. (Bonus!) However, it does not fit perfectly on the bottom due to it being about a 1/4" too wide. I think the box is thick enough that I could use a router to round off the bottom corners a bit. I'd love to get rid of the temporary styrofoam "spacers" I had to use.

Here's my final install. (Prior to trying to get the width to fit better.)
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b367/QuickPuppy/IMG_4306.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b367/QuickPuppy/IMG_4304.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b367/QuickPuppy/IMG_4305.jpg

TALK ABOUT DEJA-VU!

Glad you could bring it to pictures for everyone else QuickPuppy!:thmsup:

I can hear the gears turning in all of the 08 owners wanting to do this install. Except you, me and GigaS27.

Phil

Glad you enjoyed!

I think that this question was posed earlier in this thread but I'll ask it again and share my thoughts...

Does the subwoofer level top out much earlier than the rest of the speakers?

In my opinion, it does... drastically. At low volumes it can be almost overpowering but as it gets turned up, the rest of the speakers get louder and the sub just stays pretty much where it was at low volume. There is maybe a slight increase but nowhere near as much as the rest of the system.

I am going to try to do a test soon with some test tones and a scope to see what is actually being sent to the sub. This should determine the factory amps crossover point and if it is holding back the sub level as the rest of the volume is increased. It should also show when the signal starts to distort. This will determine where to set the input levels on my line converter and on the aftermarket amp inputs.

QuickPuppy,

Here is my experience so far...

I can turn the HU Sub level to -6 and have the line levels on the Line Convertor barely cracked and the Amp at about 45% and at low volume 5-10 the bass is very heavy and as the vol is turned up the bass increases. I have noticed that it seems like the other speakers in the car don't increase in loudness very much as the volume is increased on the HU. I's amazing how much signal comes through the factory sub output when it is at -6. The Bass setting for the other speakers in the car also will increase and decrease the sub Bass as it is adjusted.

My normal HU settings are. Then I adjust the SUB as Needed.:D

BASS = -2
TREB = +4
BAL = C
FAD = C
SUB = -6
SVC = LOW

The factory radio by default lowers output to the sub as the volume gets louder so it does not blow the sub i'm assuming. I have the same issue. I've heard other people stating a "Clean Sweep" i think by kenworth? will fix that. I have tested but maybe if we tap into rear speakers rather than sub speaker, we might not run into it as much. This is only a suggestion, so not sure if it would work or be worth the trouble.

What i do is when i know i'ma be playing loud music, i'll turn up bass setting higher to compensate.

BTW nice install guys...

I cant wait to get all my speakers in. Components in the front doors and rear speaker components,1 sub,2 amps,and cap.

I've heard other people stating a "Clean Sweep" i think by kenworth? will fix that.

I believe 'JL Audio' makes the component you speak of, ranging from 220 up to like 380$...depending on how good your JL hook up/retailer is and how close to at cost they are willing to sell it to ya for.

[QUOTE=GigaS27;201530] I've heard other people stating a "Clean Sweep" i think by kenworth? will fix that. /QUOTE]

I believe 'JL Audio' makes the component you speak of, ranging from 220 up to like 380$...depending on how good your JL hook up/retailer is and how close to at cost they are willing to sell it to ya for.

Thanks for the clarification.

lol kenworth! I think they make semis! heheh

honest mistake man!


For anyone who is worried about the decrease in sub volume by the factory stereo (I don't know this to be true, just from what you guys have said) then get a full range signal from one of the interior speakers instead of connecting your line out converter to the sub, just use the crossover on your amp and you will get just lows to the new sub. The cleansweep will not help this at all. Think of it this way, The CS sees a decrease in volume, and does not know if you turned the stereo down, or if you turned the sub down independently, so it will not adjust for a decrease or increase in relative volume.

For anyone who is worried about the decrease in sub volume by the factory stereo (I don't know this to be true, just from what you guys have said) then get a full range signal from one of the interior speakers instead of connecting your line out converter to the sub, just use the crossover on your amp and you will get just lows to the new sub.

You are correct about taking the full range signal from the rear speaker signal. However, the potential problem that I see with this is that with the line converter, you are essentially adding the load of another set of "speakers" to the rear channel of the factory amp. This additional load might be too much for the factory amp to handle at higher volumes unless you are replacing the rear speakers with the converter. I guess you don't know until you try it!

You are not adding the load of another set of speakers, you are not driving anything extra with the signal. The amp is just taking the signal and amplifying it, and outputting it. I have done this in 100's of cars with no problem. The LOC is designed to work with the speakers, unless it is complete crap.

Just wanted to let you guys know that we have just completed a system install in to the new 08 Accord using the factory Head unit. We had some issues but with a lot of trouble shooting we got it up and running and sounding really good. We did a full Alpine Type R system in the car. We installed line converters for the RCA inputs and two Alpine amps and two 12 inch Alpine subs. If you guys do this your self please make sure that you disconnect the radio microphones that control the sound when you are driving. The first one is located inside where your front roof lights and sunglass holder is located. The second microphone is located on the driver’s side just above the back seat. There is a pin-hole there so you can see where it is located. Disconnect these or you will get a lot of engine noise. All of our issues came from the microphones, other then that you are good to go.

Andre

Too anyone who does it by themselves, I do believe this is a must! It was giving me problems also. It is the ANC used by the microphones. They are really easy to disconnect.

For the front you remove the 2 screws where the sunglasses holder is, and 2 screws behind the cover for the map lights.

For the back if you just pull the two pop tabs and bend the middle cover up (fold down the rear seats) you can just get your hand up there and push the tap upwards and it will release.

I double side taped them to the microphones to avoid rattle and just in case I had to plug them back in one day.

If you were to disconnect the microphones would it make the stock stereo louder? I know when Im driving and turn it down to low setting the loudness gets quieter. Andy

If you were to disconnect the microphones would it make the stock stereo louder? I know when Im driving and turn it down to low setting the loudness gets quieter. Andy

Thats the SVC...it controls the speed/volume thing

also...if you put a LOC ont he rear speakers you run into one problem for sure

the regular bass control now determines the power of the signal getting to your speakers...so if you hook into the rear speakers (as i have) the best solution is to put crossovers on the rear speakers to help filter out the low bass and you can turn the bass up to get a good signal to your sub amp, and keep the rear speakers from distorting

HI phILDAC I'm trying to do the same thing in my accord,
I bought that fuse from autozone,do you have to add another fuse on top of it or do you connect that buss connector without adding a fuse?
I hooked up everything iam not getting anypower to my AMP
please help thanks

Major kudos to the contributors of this thread.
I installed my sub/amp today into my Accord LX-S Coupe without factory sub.
I tied into the rear speakers, and ran them through a RCA converter.
The step by step instructions and pictures made the job so easy.
I was pleasantly surprised to find that my sub still allowed access to the spare tire.

For anyone else who wants to tie into the rear speakers, the polarity is as follows:

Left (+) green or yellow
Left (-) brown
Right (+) blue
Right (-) orange

And, of course... the pictures

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k278/swicked1/Accord/S7300705-1.jpg

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k278/swicked1/Accord/S7300706-1.jpg

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k278/swicked1/Accord/S7300707-1.jpg

what trunk is that? (car) ^^^

that's slot for an enclosure is small. wow, i know i get 31" wide and my cousin who is putting a system in gets 35"

That truck belongs to this 2008 Accord LX-S coupe
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k278/swicked1/Accord/S7300685-1.jpg

People do not forget if you have the HFL there are two mics located in the front mic assmb. Look for my how-to on how to retain HFL with a aftermarket stereo setup.

It is the ANC used by the microphones. They are really easy to disconnect.

For the front you remove the 2 screws where the sunglasses holder is, and 2 screws behind the cover for the map lights.

For the back if you just pull the two pop tabs and bend the middle cover up (fold down the rear seats) you can just get your hand up there and push the tap upwards and it will release.

I double side taped them to the microphones to avoid rattle and just in case I had to plug them back in one day.

What happens when you disconnect the microphones. These are supposed to be for Noise Cancellation, do you suddenly hear all sorts of road / engine noise.

I really need to read instructions more carefully...
I just spent two days trying to figure out why my amp was making a rumbling noise, only to discover that I did not unhook the rear microphone. I didn't see the rear hole, so assumed that my car only had a microphone up front... and you know what happens when you assume. Problem resolved. God, I love online forums... they have all the answers!

What happens when you disconnect the microphones. These are supposed to be for Noise Cancellation, do you suddenly hear all sorts of road / engine noise.

Can someone clarify how to disconnect the rear microphone, some say it's easy or I have read about removing the rear deck (not so easy). I was in the trunk and there is a small black box just to the right of the subwoofer speaker. Is this the ANC?

I just unhooked my rear microphone in my coupe, so hopefully it's the same.
Fold your rear seat down and you should be able to see the microphone plug through the hole where your seat latches. The rear deck assembly wraps down and will have 2 retainer clips. Just pull gently near the retainer clips and they will come lose. Once you unhook both clips, pull up gently on the plastic cover and reach inside to unhook the microphone. Very simple.

As far as hearing road noise afterwards... the only difference that I found was that my sub noise ceased.

ok, I found both microphones and disconnected them. Now I find there is little difference in road / engine noise but now my subwoofer is virtually gone. It's barely audible, when I listen to music there is almost no sub at all, I tried turning it from C to +6 and you just hear a little increase in bass, nothing like before.

I will do a test and put the mics back on and see if that was the case. By the way my car is brand spanking new 2008 built in June 2008.

ok, I found both microphones and disconnected them. Now I find there is little difference in road / engine noise but now my subwoofer is virtually gone. It's barely audible, when I listen to music there is almost no sub at all, I tried turning it from C to +6 and you just hear a little increase in bass, nothing like before.

I will do a test and put the mics back on and see if that was the case. By the way my car is brand spanking new 2008 built in June 2008.

Please keep us posted, I am considering disabling the ANC, but will not do so if it affects sub levels.

BUMP.

G-Force - What's the story?

I hooked up the ANC microphones and the sub level has gone back to normal. I think if you are adding an amp/sub you will want to disable ANC and not care that the factory sub is doing nearly nothing but otherwise I didn't see any benefit.

Thank you, that was the answer I was looking for. I am installing an amp and 2x12 MTXs, so I won't need the factory sub to produce bass.

I have a 2009 Accord V6 Sedan EX-L w/o Nav. It has the 7 channel premium audio setup.

1. When adding a real sub to the factory system, instead of removing the mics, won't just turning SVC off fix the problem?

I have a four channel amp (Infinity 7541a) that has two high level inputs (here's a pic (http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/products/2005/108/x108R7541A-L_dg.jpeg)). I also have an enclosed 12" sub. I would like to use the 4 channel amp to power the sub, and possibly the rear speakers.

2. What size are the rear speakers? (not the sub) I may replace the rear speakers and power their replacements with my amp. Any suggestions as to a good pair of replacement speakers? Is this worth it? OR should I try powering the factory speakers with my amp? If they blow, I suppose I could just replace them. I wonder if they would even sound better just by amping them.

3. Can someone provide a little more detail on what to buy and how to connect the remote on wire to the fuse box? My last install was with an aftermarket headunit, so I just ran the remote on from the headunit to the amp. Obviously, that won't work here. I have plenty of fuses lying around. Please advise so I don't short out my brand new car or fry myself!

4. I will be disconnecting the factory sub. Should I use the factory sub wire as speaker level input to my amp, or should I tap into the other rear speakers?

THANKS!!!

I have a 2009 Accord V6 Sedan EX-L w/o Nav. It has the 7 channel premium audio setup.

1. When adding a real sub to the factory system, instead of removing the mics, won't just turning SVC off fix the problem?
No, the SVC is not the same as the ANC (active noise cancelling). You need to disable the mics or you will have issues

I have a four channel amp (Infinity 7541a) that has two high level inputs (here's a pic (http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/products/2005/108/x108R7541A-L_dg.jpeg)). I also have an enclosed 12" sub. I would like to use the 4 channel amp to power the sub, and possibly the rear speakers.
You can do this, no problem. Most 4ch amps have the ability to use only 2ch input, and just duplicate it on the other 2 output channels. I personally would amp the front speakers, since they are more important for getting the proper sound staging, but amping the rears will not hurt anything

2. What size are the rear speakers? (not the sub) I may replace the rear speakers and power their replacements with my amp. Any suggestions as to a good pair of replacement speakers? Is this worth it? OR should I try powering the factory speakers with my amp? If they blow, I suppose I could just replace them. I wonder if they would even sound better just by amping them.
The rears are 6x9 if I am not mistaken. You could amp the OEM speakers, but it might be a waste of time and money as they are nothing special.

3. Can someone provide a little more detail on what to buy and how to connect the remote on wire to the fuse box? My last install was with an aftermarket headunit, so I just ran the remote on from the headunit to the amp. Obviously, that won't work here. I have plenty of fuses lying around. Please advise so I don't short out my brand new car or fry myself!
There should be a remote turn on wire at the factory amp that will turn on/off with the radio. I am not sure what the color wire is, but a simple test with a meter would reveal it. You could also just connect it to an accessory circuit (only difference is if you turn your radio off, the amp will remain on) the cig lighter should be an easy accessory source.

4. I will be disconnecting the factory sub. Should I use the factory sub wire as speaker level input to my amp, or should I tap into the other rear speakers?
Honestly I would use 2 LOCs (line out converter). Hook one up to the factory sub speaker leads, and the other to the leads on the other speakers that you are amping. The LOC converts speaker level signal to RCAs. That way you can retain sub controls on the radio if it has it.

THANKS!!!

HTH!

I've read through this installation process, and have a question. In hooking up the line out converter, shouldnt you tap into the wires before the amp (located under the glove box on the side) instead of tapping into the wires at the factory sub location?

Also, are people tapping into the wires at the sub location and keeping the factory sub installed, or are they removing the factory sub from its location and just using the factory sub wires going into a line out converter?

Hey Phil, Looking to do the same. What i was planning to do was hook up a line convert from the rear sub for a live output, and connect that to my amp, so i can use the stock radio to control the bass for the sub only since it comes with a sub adjuster so it doesn't effect the interior bass.

But i haven't looked at anything yet. I will be looking into it this weekend hopefully, and will take pictures if i do or let you know some details on it.

I am also looking to turn the navi screen into a tv, but not sure if the 07 devices work on our model. What i was thinking was using the hardness that is sitting from the rear cam, not sure if anyone here will know if this will work, tapping a rca jack to the hardness for the rear cam.

If you do any work, would also appreciate any feedback.
Thanks

I have an Audio Control LC-8 for sale on E-Bay right now which would work great for you to connect the factory HU to your amplifier...It is currently very inexpensive....Also, if you don't have you Amp yet, I have a great amp that will drive your entire system for sale as well.

Audio Control LC-8 link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&item=200265488008

Memphis Audio 5 Channel Amp 16-MCH600 link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT&viewitem=&item=200265412300

Just installed a JL Audio 12w3v3 with the help of this thread. It was right on the money.

I'm not new to car audio, so I installed the subwoofer without a problem at first. The system sounded great until I put the car in drive and test drove it through a parking lot. As soon as any noise entered the cabin, the subwoofer would go nuts. I found this forum and realized that the ANC was causing the disturbance. I disconnected the mics and wham....no more problem.

Thank you guys for your help!

Can anyone confirm: the Manual V6 6MT does not have ANC?

No ANC for the 6MT

Where are the mics located in the car?

Is it a lot of trouble to unplug?

No ANC for the 6MT

Just to clarify, that means if you have a 6-6 there is no "extra" step needed to stop feedback, i.e. dissconnect any Mics right?

I would think that if you have navi, you have ANC, but I don't know for sure. Why don't you just take a look and see if you have the mics? You might have to modify the front mic wiring if it is for ANC and voice controls for the navi. I am sure someone will confirm one way or the other soon though.

I would assume navi = ANC also, but on the 2009 fact sheet under ANC is lists 5AT only...

Just to clarify, that means if you have a 6-6 there is no "extra" step needed to stop feedback, i.e. dissconnect any Mics right?

correct.

the anc was put into the V6 autos to combat any resonanating frequencies when VCM kicks on. any accord engine without VCM doesnt have ANC. The 6 speed manual has no VCM, thus no ANC

Can anyone confirm that if you disable the ANC, you can still keep your bluetooth and voice command features for the Nav V6? Installers I called said it would eliminate all.

i2k, ufmike

Thanks, that really helps. Getting my custom Kicker setup done this week! :banana:

Can anyone confirm that if you disable the ANC, you can still keep your bluetooth and voice command features for the Nav V6? Installers I called said it would eliminate all.

you can disable the anc and keep the bluetooth. you have to cut the wire to just the anc mic, and leave the wire to the bluetooth mic connected. theres a thread in here with step by step instructions. i have a diagram that says you can disconnect the anc plug from the back of the radio. i will be trying that before cutting any wires.

how to disable ANC and keep HFL:
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=18902

Hey Phil, Looking to do the same. What i was planning to do was hook up a line convert from the rear sub for a live output, and connect that to my amp, so i can use the stock radio to control the bass for the sub only since it comes with a sub adjuster so it doesn't effect the interior bass.

But i haven't looked at anything yet. I will be looking into it this weekend hopefully, and will take pictures if i do or let you know some details on it.

I am also looking to turn the navi screen into a tv, but not sure if the 07 devices work on our model. What i was thinking was using the hardness that is sitting from the rear cam, not sure if anyone here will know if this will work, tapping a rca jack to the hardness for the rear cam.

If you do any work, would also appreciate any feedback.
Thanks

This is wise? :screwy:

you can disable the anc and keep the bluetooth. you have to cut the wire to just the anc mic, and leave the wire to the bluetooth mic connected. theres a thread in here with step by step instructions. i have a diagram that says you can disconnect the anc plug from the back of the radio. i will be trying that before cutting any wires.

how to disable ANC and keep HFL:
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=18902

Your the man! The shop I want to get the install done told me that they could not find a way to keep my bluetooth/HFL since they would have to disconnect the ANC. I told them that Ive heard on here that it can be done. He said to print out anything that shows how and they are more than willing to work with it.

Thanks again!

Your the man! The shop I want to get the install done told me that they could not find a way to keep my bluetooth/HFL since they would have to disconnect the ANC. I told them that Ive heard on here that it can be done. He said to print out anything that shows how and they are more than willing to work with it.

Thanks again!

i just disconnected the ANC plug from the back of the radio yesterday. This also works. I still have HFL functionality. The ANC plug is the top center plug if you are looking at the back of the radio. the audio sounds better now, and i dont notice any more road noise. not really sure why honda even bothered putting it in.

i just disconnected the ANC plug from the back of the radio yesterday. This also works. I still have HFL functionality. The ANC plug is the top center plug if you are looking at the back of the radio. the audio sounds better now, and i dont notice any more road noise. not really sure why honda even bothered putting it in.

I just PM you. Please get back. Thanks:thmsup:

here is a pic of the honda pdf showing which harnesses are which. i disconnected the ANC harness from the back of the radio rather than disconnect the wires from the mic in the overhead console. i had to take the radio out to install my pxamg ipod and hd radio adaptor though. if you dont want to pull the head unit, just do it through the overhead console
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d132/ufmike316/0023.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d132/ufmike316/0033.jpg

my installer, install my system w/out touching the factory unit. i don't know how he did this but i get to keep my anc and my bluetooth. he actually connect the remote wire somewhere underneath my steering wheel w/out taking apart the dash/center console

the anc was put into the V6 autos to combat any resonanating frequencies when VCM kicks on. any accord engine without VCM doesnt have ANC. The 6 speed manual has no VCM, thus no ANC

Taking out the ANC mic, will that disable the navi voice telling me "next left turn.."???????

Taking out the ANC mic, will that disable the navi voice telling me "next left turn.."???????

ANC Mics are strictly for "Auto Noise Canceling" They interpret the cabin noise and raise your stereo volume accordingly. I happen to dislike this feature personally but everyone seems to be using it now a days. They will not disable any other option if disconnected (blue tooth, navi, etc...) your stereo just will not auto volume anymore.

ANC Mics are strictly for "Auto Noise Canceling" They interpret the cabin noise and raise your stereo volume accordingly. I happen to dislike this feature personally but everyone seems to be using it now a days. They will not disable any other option if disconnected (blue tooth, navi, etc...) your stereo just will not auto volume anymore.

so after you remove the mics it would always be loud as if the ANC was on high or will the stereo always be low as if the ANC had not come on??

Hey so i have a question..So i have a ex-l i4 without navi and 7-speaker configuration. I installed a pioneer z3 headunit. When i turn up the volume above 9 ( the deck goes to 30) it sounds distorted. Is this because of the ANC mics? Im using the factory amp..how i connected it is with a scosche wire harness.

man I hope this works! my installer wants to sell me a LC8 to get rid of the noise! and my front components are very low.... can anyone help me?

bump

man I hope this works! my installer wants to sell me a LC8 to get rid of the noise! and my front components are very low.... can anyone help me?

disconnecting the ANC will get rid of the sound in your sub. you shouldnt have problems with your highs though. that would be another issue. the LC8 may fix the issue with your highs. I have JL amps that accept balanced inputs, so i wired the factory pre amp wires directly into my ampo and there is no noise, and its crystal clear without any signal processing.

disconnecting the ANC will get rid of the sound in your sub. you shouldnt have problems with your highs though. that would be another issue. the LC8 may fix the issue with your highs. I have JL amps that accept balanced inputs, so i wired the factory pre amp wires directly into my ampo and there is no noise, and its crystal clear without any signal processing.

see I have no noise from the sub... just an annoying sound from my front door components... thats what is driving me crazy! any suggestions?

Bad ground or radiated noise if you get the whining through your highs. Are they amped? if so, reground the amp. If the ground is solid, check where the RCAs are ran, they might be picking up noise somewhere Unplug the RCAs from the amp, and if the noise goes away then you know you are picking it up via the RCAs (possibly radiated noise, or a ground loop with the deck) If the problem goes away, plug them back in, and unplug the RCAs from the head unit. If the problem persists, it is radiated noise, if it goes away it is a ground loop. I would reground the deck somewhere solid at this point. If it still happens, you will have to cut away a little of the insulation on your RCAs and solder a ground to the shield on the RCAs. (I have had to do this is some pioneer radios)

HTH

very helpful everyone thanks!!

removing the anc fixed the issues.................

regarding when feeding the power cable through.
does it matter which end you push the power cable through the gromet and it will still end up coming out the same hole?
if anyone can help that be great.

Thanks


6. Locate grommet in firewall and push it through from the inside into the engine bay. It is located just below the wire bundle that is above the gas pedal. In the pics I have already removed it.
Here it is from the inside:
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b367/QuickPuppy/IMG_4285.jpg
And from the engine bay: It's in the dead center of this pic. The small white dot below the "1" in the ID number.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b367/QuickPuppy/IMG_4281.jpg

Okay so I installed a JL sub with a Phoenix Gold amp. Whenever I got it installed, they unplugged both of the mics (front and rear) but the sound from the sub is still occurring. So would I have to go to the back of the head unit and unplug the ANC completely?

How would you get to the back of the head unit? I want to unplug the ANC entirely but am not sure of how to do it. Has anyone done it themselves? Any problems afterwards?

If you unplug the ANC in the head liner (not behind the radio) you should not have any issues at all. It is just noise cancelling. You will have slightly more road noise (not actually MORE noise, just less of it will be cancelled by the ANC)

I have the V6 EX-L with the 6 speed manual and no navigation..... do I still have the ANC microphone?

I am looking to upgrade my soundsystem as well (amp, sub, speakers) without changing the head unit.

I have the V6 EX-L with the 6 speed manual and no navigation..... do I still have the ANC microphone?

I am looking to upgrade my soundsystem as well (amp, sub, speakers) without changing the head unit.

yep you have anc

yep you have anc


I guess that would explain why I loose the crisp, clean bass I have as I turn the volume up. If I remove ANC before I upgrade the stereo, will my bass stay strong as I turn the volume up? I'm not a fool, I won't overdrive it. I know what clipping sounds like.

I have the V6 EX-L with the 6 speed manual and no navigation..... do I still have the ANC microphone?

I am looking to upgrade my soundsystem as well (amp, sub, speakers) without changing the head unit.
You do not have ANC in your car. The V6 Auto does but not the 6 speed manual. The answer can be found in the brochure at the back pages under engineering - Automatic Noise Cancelation (ANC).

Go ahead and upgrade, you do not have to worry about ANC. The premium audio is not so premium so the bass breaks up at high volumes levels. The seperate amp for the sub is only about 15-20 watts RMS at best. That will only get you so far.

well don't i have soot on my face, hes right i'm wrong, looked up sedan instead of coupe. http://automobiles.honda.com/accord-coupe/specifications.aspx
sorry I will now go to the corner and cry.

well don't i have soot on my face, hes right i'm wrong, looked up sedan instead of coupe. http://automobiles.honda.com/accord-coupe/specifications.aspx
sorry I will now go to the corner and cry.

NP, we all have our dyslexic days. That is why there is more the one person answering questions and giving our opinions. :thumbsup: