I have a 2007 accord v6 with a 5 speed auto. I been reading about the upgrade to the suspension by replacing a rear sway bar from an acura tl and it would bolt right up., Can someone please help with part numbers and a list of what parts I would need to purchase from Acura to make this work??? also most of the talk that I have read here is replacing the rear sway bar with a 17mm anthing more then that would cas the car to have oversteer. what your thoughts on this ??

Has anyone done anything to the front sway bar or is already set up fine from the factory ?

One last question the what about a strut tower brace any part numbers for it ? and what make and modle vehicle would these parts come from???


thank you

Hi

v6 6 speed Strut tower brace

74180-SDP-A00 (i forgot the year but that is the right part number from honda)

As for the rear sway I have a 20mm from the TL-S on my 07 v6 and I don't see any oversteer issues at all. I know alot of I4 guys will disagree but it works just fine for me. You'll have to look in the FAQs section for the rear sway bar part numbers.


There are plenty of opinions on the rear sway bar size so you should read up on the others explanations to draw your own conclusions using the search function.

Welcome to the board.

Check out my webpages for the rear sway upgrade and the front strut tower brace install:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/281873/4

Also, check thru the mods and accessory forums. Quite a few people have done some outstanding mods from suspension to engine.

Hey thanks for the reply.. im been looking around since i posted my thread. Just quick question on the front sway bar is it fine the way it is because most of the comments here are about the rear sway bar.

thanks

Hi

v6 6 speed Strut tower brace

74180-SDP-A00 (i forgot the year but that is the right part number from honda)

As for the rear sway I have a 20mm from the TL-S on my 07 v6 and I don't see any oversteer issues at all. I know alot of I4 guys will disagree but it works just fine for me. You'll have to look in the FAQs section for the rear sway bar part numbers.


There are plenty of opinions on the rear sway bar size so you should read up on the others explanations to draw your own conclusions using the search function.

did you install this brace your self and does it come with the hardware to install and are there holes predrilled to attach. thank you

I would suggest getting the TL-S front and rear sway bars, and the V6 6-speed strut bar.

For both the sways, you only need the bar itself, the brackets (2) and the bushings (2). You can re-use your existing hardware...

When I swapped my front sway, I also had to change the end links because they were loose...might not be your case.

It's a cheap upgrade, but very efficient!

It really depends on what you want. The rear sway bar is literally a 30 minute, piece of cake job. Do that first and see waht you think.

Doing the front will significantly reduce body roll but its a big job. I believe the subframe has to be loosened to change it out. Most that have done the rear only have been happy with the results.

If you do the front one, you'll also probably want the larger rear bar to keep the handling neutral.

Do a search. There have been some really good discussions about this.

:thmsup:

I would suggest getting the TL-S front and rear sway bars, and the V6 6-speed strut bar.

For both the sways, you only need the bar itself, the brackets (2) and the bushings (2). You can re-use your existing hardware...

When I swapped my front sway, I also had to change the end links because they were loose...might not be your case.

It's a cheap upgrade, but very efficient!

ok thank you for reply my car is a 2007 v6 Auto, what year TL-S are you talking about and what are the part numbers that i would need to order?

It really depends on what you want. The rear sway bar is literally a 30 minute, piece of cake job. Do that first and see waht you think.

Doing the front will significantly reduce body roll but its a big job. I believe the subframe has to be loosened to change it out. Most that have done the rear only have been happy with the results.

If you do the front one, you'll also probably want the larger rear bar to keep the handling neutral.

Do a search. There have been some really good discussions about this.

:thmsup:

thank you, I took a look at your instructions for the sway bar swap. however my car is an 07 besides the bar is there anyother hardware needed ?

thank you, I took a look at your instructions for the sway bar swap. however my car is an 07 besides the bar is there anyother hardware needed ?

Check here (http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?p=70008#post70008), you may have to scroll down to the "Modification" section.

It appears 2003-2007 Accords are identical suspension components wise, so the instructions and part numbers are all interchangeable.

Check here (http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?p=70008#post70008), you may have to scroll down to the "Modification" section.

It appears 2003-2007 Accords are identical suspension components wise, so the instructions and part numbers are all interchangeable.

thank you, so did you do the upgrade to yours ?
and tell me more about your hid kit please...

great choice for your first upgrade. consider a brake pad change as well so the oem pads don't ruin your rotors.

I and a few others have done the front sway bar upgrade. It is definitely worthwhile, but a little more complicated. The rear bar is where you'll feel the biggest difference though. I probably wouldn't touch the front bar unless you are going for a 20mm or larger bar in the rear though. Be careful if you decide to put one of the larger bars on the rear w/o touching the front, some people have had oversteer issues, but on the other hand most have not. Just something to think about. Most people seem happy with just the rear bar upgrades, but draw your own conclusions here.

great choice for your first upgrade. consider a brake pad change as well so the oem pads don't ruin your rotors.

I and a few others have done the front sway bar upgrade. It is definitely worthwhile, but a little more complicated. The rear bar is where you'll feel the biggest difference though. I probably wouldn't touch the front bar unless you are going for a 20mm or larger bar in the rear though. Be careful if you decide to put one of the larger bars on the rear w/o touching the front, some people have had oversteer issues, but on the other hand most have not. Just something to think about. Most people seem happy with just the rear bar upgrades, but draw your own conclusions here.

thank you, how did you car feel after the before and after the sway bars and were did you notice the most improvment when driving

and did you notice the most improvment when driving

I sure hope that is the ONLY time chanke4252 can feel the difference! :banana: :lmao:

thank you, I took a look at your instructions for the sway bar swap. however my car is an 07 besides the bar is there anyother hardware needed ?

On my site, I have the part numbers for the bar, the bushings (2), and bushing holders (2). Re-use the same bolts for the bushing holders and on the endlinks (suspension piece the bar connects to).

On page 5 of my site are the instructions and part number for the strut bar install. Only the bar, tools, and some patience is needed. You can re-use the bolts for the bar.

These mods will work for any 2003-2007 US Accord but I can't say with 100%certainty its the same for the Hybrid.

ok thank you for reply my car is a 2007 v6 Auto, what year TL-S are you talking about and what are the part numbers that i would need to order?

2007 TL-S is fine (this is what I got).

Front sway is a big job to change, but a professional mechanic can do it in less than 1 hour. You will need an alignment after the front sway because, as said before, the sub-frame needs to be lowered.

I sure hope that is the only time chanke4252 can feel the difference! :banana: :lmao:

lol

Well, the 17mm bar was definitely the most effective upgrade. Before I did that and had the stock 14mm bar on there the rear end would take much longer to settle after a turn. If I would make a sharp turn, my rear end would sometimes wobble back and forth, which was ridiculous imo.

The 17mm bar removed all of the feeling that the rear end was wobbling back and forth, made the turn-in feel quicker, removed some of the excessive understeer, and dealt with a good portion of the body roll. I mean, your car won't stay completely flat when cornering with the 17mm rear bar, but it won't feel like it's wobbling and tipping over anymore. I know this saying is thrown around a lot, but the accord should have come with the 17mm bar from the factory, though I'm pretty confident that the reason it didn't was to detune the handling a little and help differentiate it from the TL.

The comfort level with the 17mm bar stayed pretty much the same. Once I installed the larger TL-S bars the ride was a bit more harsh over bumps and the shock was sent to the other side of the car a bit more than before, but it really wasn't a huge difference.

The 17mm rear bar was a nice upgrade, though if I had to do the TL-S upgrades again, I might substitute a larger aftermarket 22mm rear bar in for the 20mm TL-S bar or substitute the hollow 6MT TL front bar in for the solid TL-S front bar. That solid front bar added a bit more understeer than I would like. I'm not sure what the weight distribution is on the TL-S, but maybe it's a little more front-heavy.

The bars are pretty cheap though, I mean at about 40 bucks a piece for everything you could try out the 17mm one and upsize if you feel it necessary. It's not like someone here won't buy it.

As for part numbers, all that info is in the 7th gen FAQ stickied in the 7th gen forum I believe. Give it a good read through if you haven't already.

For places to find the Acura parts check out Delray Acura: http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/home.jsp

There used to be a site called acuraparts247, which is what I used before, but they shut down sadly.

I just ordered the 27.2mm hollow front and 20mm solid rear sway bars and misc parts from Shawn at Sunnyside Acura. He was GREAT to work with, and I cannot wait to get my new sways. I could hardly believe my ears when he told me the grand total of BOTH bars, shipped to me in Virginia, would be just $83!! Wow!! :thmsup:

FWIW, the reason I went with the hollow front bar (instead of the solid one of the same diameter) is that I am not a big fan of understeer, but didn't want the potential oversteer situation posed by just adding the 20mm rear bar and no change to the front. I think this combo will give me about what I am after in handling, with some small semblance of safety, i.e. understeer. :naughty:

^^I wish I did what you did. The different between the hollow and solid bar should only be very small, but hopefully it is still a big enough difference that handling is a bit more neutral.

I just ordered the 27.2mm hollow front and 20mm solid rear sway bars and misc parts from Shawn at Sunnyside Acura. He was GREAT to work with, and I cannot wait to get my new sways. I could hardly believe my ears when he told me the grand total of BOTH bars, shipped to me in Virginia, would be just $83!! Wow!! :thmsup:

FWIW, the reason I went with the hollow front bar (instead of the solid one of the same diameter) is that I am not a big fan of understeer, but didn't want the potential oversteer situation posed by just adding the 20mm rear bar and no change to the front. I think this combo will give me about what I am after in handling, with some small semblance of safety, i.e. understeer. :naughty:


Hi,

I was reading this thread and I am wondering, if anyone could recommend if I should let a Mechanic install the 17 mm rear sway bar for my car or a Honda Dealership. Im not really a DIY kinda of guy so I need someone that knows what their doing, so I dont screw up my car.:D

there is nothing to screw up. The bar only fits one way and it consists of removing 4 bolts and 2 nuts, taking the old bar away, putting the new bar in, then putting those nuts and bolts back on. The hardest part was letting the liquid wrench cut through the rust. I would recommend doing it yourself, but if you have to have someone else do it, go with whoever is cheaper. I would probably go with a third party mechanic of some sort as they are more likely not to screw you over in pricing as well as not strip out your nuts and bolts, or break your endlinks or something dumb like that. Honda dealerships tend not to be very mod friendly in my experience. Though, again, I'd recommend doing it yourself, if only to get to know your car a little bit.

Replacing the rear bar is a very basic job for someone that is somewhat handy with a wrench and should take less than an hour. If you know ANYONE who is the least bit handy, I would recommend you work out a deal (some $ or beer or whatever) where you go over to his/her house, and either watch as he/she does the job or better yet have him/her oversee as YOU do the job. It would be a great 1st project for you that wouldn't be too tool-intensive. :yes:

This is how I first learned about bleeding brakes when I was a young guy out of college - a bunch of us gathered at a gearhead friend's house and had a "brake-bleeding party" - we did about three cars in a row and taught and learned from each other along the way. Of course we were engineers with no real social life at the time....

Replacing the rear bar is a very basic job for someone that is somewhat handy with a wrench and should take less than an hour. If you know ANYONE who is the least bit handy, I would recommend you work out a deal (some $ or beer or whatever) where you go over to his/her house, and either watch as he/she does the job or better yet have him/her oversee as YOU do the job. It would be a great 1st project for you that wouldn't be too tool-intensive. :yes:

This is how I first learned about bleeding brakes when I was a young guy out of college - a bunch of us gathered at a gearhead friend's house and had a "brake-bleeding party" - we did about three cars in a row and taught and learned from each other along the way. Of course we were engineers with no real social life at the time....

Thanks guys. My dad is pretty good with cars. He is rebuilding a Chevy Caprice Classic with a Monte Carlo 454 engine dropped in there, talk about power aye. so I guess I could ask him since he seems to be good at what he does.

On my site, I have the part numbers for the bar, the bushings (2), and bushing holders (2). Re-use the same bolts for the bushing holders and on the endlinks (suspension piece the bar connects to).

On page 5 of my site are the instructions and part number for the strut bar install. Only the bar, tools, and some patience is needed. You can re-use the bolts for the bar.

These mods will work for any 2003-2007 US Accord but I can't say with 100%certainty its the same for the Hybrid.

ok thank you for you reply... also someone earlier in the thread said that they took a 2007 tl-s front and rear sway bar off and installed it on there car. have you heard of that before and my question would be is that bigger sway bar actually improveing the suspension or making worse ?

lol

Well, the 17mm bar was definitely the most effective upgrade. Before I did that and had the stock 14mm bar on there the rear end would take much longer to settle after a turn. If I would make a sharp turn, my rear end would sometimes wobble back and forth, which was ridiculous imo.

The 17mm bar removed all of the feeling that the rear end was wobbling back and forth, made the turn-in feel quicker, removed some of the excessive understeer, and dealt with a good portion of the body roll. I mean, your car won't stay completely flat when cornering with the 17mm rear bar, but it won't feel like it's wobbling and tipping over anymore. I know this saying is thrown around a lot, but the accord should have come with the 17mm bar from the factory, though I'm pretty confident that the reason it didn't was to detune the handling a little and help differentiate it from the TL.

The comfort level with the 17mm bar stayed pretty much the same. Once I installed the larger TL-S bars the ride was a bit more harsh over bumps and the shock was sent to the other side of the car a bit more than before, but it really wasn't a huge difference.

The 17mm rear bar was a nice upgrade, though if I had to do the TL-S upgrades again, I might substitute a larger aftermarket 22mm rear bar in for the 20mm TL-S bar or substitute the hollow 6MT TL front bar in for the solid TL-S front bar. That solid front bar added a bit more understeer than I would like. I'm not sure what the weight distribution is on the TL-S, but maybe it's a little more front-heavy.

The bars are pretty cheap though, I mean at about 40 bucks a piece for everything you could try out the 17mm one and upsize if you feel it necessary. It's not like someone here won't buy it.

As for part numbers, all that info is in the 7th gen FAQ stickied in the 7th gen forum I believe. Give it a good read through if you haven't already.

For places to find the Acura parts check out Delray Acura: http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/home.jsp

There used to be a site called acuraparts247, which is what I used before, but they shut down sadly.
thank you for your time with this reply i noticed that you have this listed in your mods to your car... tell me about how your car feels with the TL-S front and rear on your car ?

'07 TL-S 27mm front and 20mm rear sway bars

I just ordered the 27.2mm hollow front and 20mm solid rear sway bars and misc parts from Shawn at Sunnyside Acura. He was GREAT to work with, and I cannot wait to get my new sways. I could hardly believe my ears when he told me the grand total of BOTH bars, shipped to me in Virginia, would be just $83!! Wow!! :thmsup:

FWIW, the reason I went with the hollow front bar (instead of the solid one of the same diameter) is that I am not a big fan of understeer, but didn't want the potential oversteer situation posed by just adding the 20mm rear bar and no change to the front. I think this combo will give me about what I am after in handling, with some small semblance of safety, i.e. understeer. :naughty:

do you have a phone number and a last name for the person you delt with
?

How much is the 17mm sway bar? I found one on ebay by progress and its $150. Can I get it for cheaper?

Thanks,

17mm bar is under $40 but I've never seen a discount on progress suspension products.

If you go to this website:
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/home.jsp

And use the part numbers listed in the FAQ section:

17mm bar parts needed:

1 of 52300-SEP-A03
2 of 52306-SEP-A02
2 of 52308-S3M-A00

20mm bar parts needed:

1 of 52300-SEP-A11
2 of 52306-SEP-A11
2 of 52308-S3M-A00

Type the parts you want in the little search box that says item number.
Order the correct quantity of each part.
With shipping I believe for either one it comes out to around $40.
Hope that helps!

Wow thats cheap. Thanks for the help

So I should get 17mm If I dont upgrade the front right?

I just ordered the 27.2mm hollow front and 20mm solid rear sway bars and misc parts from Shawn at Sunnyside Acura. He was GREAT to work with, and I cannot wait to get my new sways. I could hardly believe my ears when he told me the grand total of BOTH bars, shipped to me in Virginia, would be just $83!! Wow!! :thmsup:

FWIW, the reason I went with the hollow front bar (instead of the solid one of the same diameter) is that I am not a big fan of understeer, but didn't want the potential oversteer situation posed by just adding the 20mm rear bar and no change to the front. I think this combo will give me about what I am after in handling, with some small semblance of safety, i.e. understeer. :naughty:

Oh yeah? I dealt with Shawn too! Super dude.

Oh yeah? I dealt with Shawn too! Super dude.

Whats the part # for the front ones? For $83 I may as well get the fronts

Whats the part # for the front ones? For $83 I may as well get the fronts

I didn't give Shawn any part numbers - I simply told him what I wanted (via phone) as "2007 TL-S 20mm rear sway bar and bushings" and the "hollow 27.2 mm front bar" from the 2006 TL (I thought). He seemed to know just what I needed. :thmsup:

UPS says the bars will arrive tomorrow. I plan to install them this weekend, weather permitting. So I'll let you know after that if indeed I got the right parts.

So I should get 17mm If I dont upgrade the front right?

That's my understanding. The idea is that the bigger the rear bar, the less (safe) understeer the car exhibits and the more tendency toward oversteer (not as safe for most drivers). Some on here have claimed the 20mm poses an unacceptable risk of snap oversteer in wet conditions. Others have cited the stock tires really aren't "up to" the 20mm rear bar, since the bigger bar does stress the tire sidewalls more.

It's up to you though. it's hard to tell what you'd like without actually trying out all combinations. it's cheap enough to try "just" the 17mm first and if you like that balance but wish for more, then you can go for the 20/27mm combo next. I would like a little less understeer than stock, but wanted FLAT/tossable cornering, so I went with the hollow 27.2 front as opposed to the solid (in combo w/ the 20mm rear bar).

One thing I learned in the past (on a VERY different car, a 1972 Corvette convertible) was that the steering "feel" became slightly heavier and less pleasant with adding a larger front bar, but I felt that the improvement in cornering was WELL worth it! With just a set of KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, a huge 1.25" front sway bar and the addition of a 3/4" rear bar (where none existed before), along with urethane bushings, the handling went from scary 1964 Oldsmobile-like to absolutely tossable!

So you must of received the parts by now did you install them and how did the car feel after ?

So you must of received the parts by now did you install them and how did the car feel after ?
Please see my treatise in the (separate) thread I specifically started on the subject. http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=14783

In summary, the bars did not transform my car into an S2000, nor is it even as "tossable" as my beater 1991 Civic Si. The front bar was a PAIN to install, andI question whether it was worth it. It definitely corners flatter, but without any better "feel". Now that I am trying to bonzai most corners I am even more aware of how many "destinationless wanderers"/"wandering generalities" there are out there clogging up the highways. If it were realistic, those guys in that Mitsubishi Lancer commercial would be stuck behind a muffler-dragging Kia Rio going 20 mph on 3 of those 4 on-ramps.

Back on subject: the more I drive with the new bars, the more I feel the 20mm bar in the rear is simply too big (too much of a ride comfort compromise for me). I am seriously considering swapping out the 20mm rear for the 17mm rear bar instead. Maybe that will yield the best handling/ride set-up for me. Either way, the overriding sensation right now is one of a heavy-handed solid axle/leaf spring response, relative to the supple stock set-up. That's my impression in daily commuting; I might feel differently in an auto-cross situation! Thankfully, the rear bar is certainly easy and cheap enough to swap out. But I will probably hold off until I get my next set of tires on there first. Most likely I'll spring for the new Goodyeay F1 All-Seasons in my stock size of 215/50-17.

PS - It might be an improvement if polyurethane bushings were available in lieu of the stock rubber. Unfortunately, Honda DIDN'T "keep it simple" in that the rubber bushing outer surface is a contoured shape that's difficult to duplicate and requires a dedicated/matched metal bracket. EVERY other manufacturer (it seems) uses a simple and universal cylindrically-shaped outer bushing surface that mates to a one-size-fits-all bracket (instead of dedicated brackets for each size of bar)....