I changed my auto tranny filter a little over a week ago. My car had 42K on it and the filter had not been serviced to my knowledge. I replaced it with a Magnefine 3/8" inline filter, but the Honda filter seems to be well made. I purchased the filter @ www.emergingent.com. Click on Magnefine, and then Online Store. (The smart connects are for attaching to copper lines, not needed in this install.)

I immediately noticed quicker shifts under light acceleration. Before at a steady 50 mph it would seem to be waiting until 55 or 60 to shift into 5th. Now in will shift into 5th at a hair over 45 with out hesitation.

I got a few pics of the new filter in place and the old one cut apart. The media is covered in the same non-gritty sludge that sticks to the magnetic drain plug. There was some grit captured in the filter as I tried to get a pic of it.
Here's the old filter.

Old one cut open, note the bypass.

New one zip-tyed in place as it was too fat to fit under the bracket.

by the photo's provided above the magnefine has a much thicker circumference, I guess that equals to better filtration. I am thinking of changing the AT-filter to a Magnefine filter for my 2.4L AT and if i wanted to change the filter on a V6-AT model, any advised from fellow v6 owners the type or a quick write up from fellow owners.

Thanks
George

Why didn't use just replace the filter & not the whole thing?

Why didn't use just replace the filter & not the whole thing?

I am pretty sure he had to cut that filter housing so you could see the filter media inside of it.

It doesn't look like the internal filter element can be replaced? OP said he had to cut open the filter.

Did Honda start adding transmission filters back on the 7th Gen again? From what I recall the transmission filter is not serviceable as it is inside the transmission.

I did cut the old one open. The Magnefine is only slightly larger, but it is longer. All 7 gen automatics have a servicable filter. The V6 models are a bear from what I've read.

Sorry about the last pic, I didn't notice the blurring until I posted it.

But is it the same part for the V6-AT as the I4-AT ?

Oh no, it's different on the V6. Somebody here has done it though. Keeping searching and you'll find something on it.

Look like this could be added to any Gen Honda, no?

Can someone post the factory instructions on replacing this on the gen 7 and if it is in the gen 8? I checked on Purolator's web site and it says it is not serviceable.

Changing this filter is very straightforward. Locate the filter. Look to the left of the air filter housing and back some. It's attached to the tranny housing by a single 10mm bolt. The wide 3 point spring clamps are the biggest obstacles. I used a set of locking needle nose pliers on them.

Remove the hoses and remove the bolt holding the bracket in place. Re-assemble in reverse order and add fluid as needed. Think fuel filter on a non-pressurized fuel system

I had a Honda dealership tell me my car didn't have a servicable filter, but I've seen a diagram with part numbers on this site somewhere.

Can someone post the factory instructions on replacing this on the gen 7 and if it is in the gen 8? I checked on Purolator's web site and it says it is not serviceable.

no instructions but here parts page and pic for Gen8 2.4L.

The filter is right on top case held by a strap clamp, you can't miss it.


https://www.hondapartsdeals.com/honda_parts_list.php?hp_queried_components=0&hp_series_id=3513&hp_series_model=ACCORD&hp_series_year=2008&hp_series_door_ext_grade=4DR+LX&hp_series_transmission=5AT&hp_series_slsareacd=KL&hp_system=C&hp_component=ATM07

I've had mine on since the 2k mile mark. IIRC it says to change the Magnefine once a year. Regardless, I'm changing mine every 20-25k. Nice pics Mark, glad it worked out for ya. I'll cut my Magnefine open when I install the new one and post it.

That's just an external line filter to trap sediment being circulated through the cooler line I would assume. Most cars have a much bigger flat filter in the bottom of the trans, perhaps 6" x 8" square. In my F250 it was about a foot long. I can only hope the Honda has something more substantial inside it or it explains a lot of the problems they've had.

Man, you should have done a How-to for us. I'm barely at 13K miles. Planning to do my tranny fluid drain and fill at 15K. Maybe I'll do the filter too. Maybe......

Honda doesn't list this as serviceable, but it is.

You can't just replace the filter. It's completely sealed so you have to replace the whole unit.

That's just an external line filter to trap sediment being circulated through the cooler line I would assume. Most cars have a much bigger flat filter in the bottom of the trans, perhaps 6" x 8" square. In my F250 it was about a foot long. I can only hope the Honda has something more substantial inside it or it explains a lot of the problems they've had.

For whatever reason Honda doesn't use those type of internal flat filters used in US AT market.
Its better than nothing and still filters all the tranny oil. It works just like a fuel filter or oil filter as there both inline filters too.
It is odd they don't recommend changing it at any time intervals.

I called 2 dealers in my area and they both told me the filter did not exist at first. After I asked them to look further, they finally found it in their parts lookup. Interestingly enough, both dealers never sold one to the public nor used one as a service replacement. Go figure.:dunno::confused::scratch::screwy:

I called 2 dealers in my area and they both told me the filter did not exist at first. After I asked them to look further, they finally found it in their parts lookup. Interestingly enough, both dealers never sold one to the public nor used one as a service replacement. Go figure.:dunno::confused::scratch::screwy:
Yes, thats extremely weird especially since OP with only 42k noticed an improvement with new filter. I can't see them not having it as service item as any filter will eventually get clogged up over time.

no instructions but here parts page and pic for Gen8 2.4L.

The filter is right on top case held by a strap clamp, you can't miss it.


https://www.hondapartsdeals.com/honda_parts_list.php?hp_queried_components=0&hp_series_id=3513&hp_series_model=ACCORD&hp_series_year=2008&hp_series_door_ext_grade=4DR+LX&hp_series_transmission=5AT&hp_series_slsareacd=KL&hp_system=C&hp_component=ATM07

Thanks for the information. I guess Honda added this as an insurance move after all of the tranny issues in the past. I know that it had to do with some cooler part but they wouldn't have added this if there wasn't a problem since it was proven to not be needed all of those cars in the 90's didn't have it and it worked out ok.

I checked and from the looks of things the manual transmission doesn't have one?

At least the good thing is that they put it in an area which you can easily get to. I absolutely hated the ones where it was inside the transmission and you would have to drain the fluid and remove the pan to get to it....a mess to say the least.

I'm assuming since it wasn't stated in the owner’s manual that you should change this as part of when the MM tells you to change the transmission fluid?

The filter like the op has and I have in our I4's is a slip stream type arrangement. And when plugged will bypass the filter all together. I change ours every 30k miles.

The one in the V6 is a direct pressure type. If its not changed hydraulic pressure will crush it when it becomes completely plugged. Ive changed one in a V6 for a friend. Its not that hard. Just find the parts break down at college hill or other online Honda parts vendor. If you need more info than the parts break down you most likely shouldn't own a tool box.

Why Honda doesn't make these a 30k mile maint. item? I have no idea. With this discovery. I lost a bit of faith in Honda and there dealers. I too thought I was going to have to slut slap the parts guy to get it thru his head the I4 AT's had a filter. He knew there was one in the v6's, admittedly because of all the transmission failures he had seen.

I changed ours over to M1 AT doing a complete flush. M1 doesn't recommend there fluid to be used in any of the Honda AT's. It made the shifts firmer and dropped the over all fluid temps as messured by my fluke. ( I posted about this some where on driveaccord ) The wife has since asked that I make her car shift like a slush box trash car once again. So Ive started using ATFZ1 again to keep her happy. Seeing that I dont drive the car much anymore. And mainly because of the near worthless AT. I begrudgingly put the ATFZ1 back in so it can shift like a blue hair's car and heat up the fluid with its soft slip shifts.

At any rate. If you want to keep your car for the long run as we wish to do. CHANGE THE FILTER AND FLUID!!!!!

The felt filters used in many domestic such as my 4T60E transmission are worth less than this Honda arrangement. They don't filter very finely - they are on the suction side of the pump. psyshack can tell you about the no-no of putting a fluid on the suction side of a pump w/o some sort of automatic shutdown if flow stops due to filter clogging. Even then it isn't the best idea.

I didn't realize you had to replace the entire assembly when replacing the filter element. That seems rather stupid. I wonder what the filter rating is such as beta efficiency, etc.

Has an external cooler been added as well? Permacool?

TurBeau, I intended to give you some props on this as you walked me through it. Nice to see you chiming in.

I'm also curious to see the innards of the Magnefine. It may make an interesting contrast as I'm sure the magnets will keep the media cleaner longer.

I called 2 dealers in my area and they both told me the filter did not exist at first. After I asked them to look further, they finally found it in their parts lookup. Interestingly enough, both dealers never sold one to the public nor used one as a service replacement. Go figure.:dunno::confused::scratch::screwy:

When I went to the dealer to pick up the ATF for my DIY ATF drain and fil (in the DIY section with pictures), I mentioned this cooler filter(ATF Filter). My Honda Service manual only mentions this filter in the cooler lines section. In the manual it is referred to as an ATF FILTER. So I took my book and showed the parts guy....... he looked dumb founded. But it was worse when he said they had never sold one and would have to order it from the factory if I wanted one. The next time I do the drain and fill I will be changing this filter.

Just to make sure, the pic that was posted looks like the Magnefine ATF filter needs to be installed with the directional flow arrow pointing to the FRONT of the car on a 2006 I4 Accord?

Just to make sure, the pic that was posted looks like the Magnefine ATF filter needs to be installed with the directional flow arrow pointing to the FRONT of the car on a 2006 I4 Accord?

No, the arrow needs to be pointing towards the firewall.

No, the arrow needs to be pointing towards the firewall.

I have not removed the "ATF FILTER" (as classified in the Service Manual on Page 14-228) yet and was wondering if it has a an arrow on it that shows the flow direction?

If my memory is correct the Transmission (XMSN, Aviation accronym) fluid leaves the xmsn to the cooler then after being cooled it returns to the xmsn after passing through the ATF Filter. So that means the arrow is in the right direction.

I have not removed the "ATF FILTER" (as classified in the Service Manual on Page 14-228) yet and was wondering if it has a an arrow on it that shows the flow direction?


The OEM one doesn't have a direction of flow on the filter. I just took the hoses off and had my wife start the car for me for a second so I could see which way the fluid traveled.

The OEM one doesn't have a direction of flow on the filter. I just took the hoses off and had my wife start the car for me for a second so I could see which way the fluid traveled.

Thats another way of doing. Did it come out of the lines rather fast or just a slow stream?

When I replaced my tranny Jasper furnished a Magnafine to be installed for the 1st 1k. And then they supplied a new hose to install after the 1K . At 1 K Out with the Magnafine and in with the Hastings mag filter. I am about due to change again. I believe A/C Delco makes a magnetic inline ATF filter also.

I1:)

Changing this filter is very straightforward. Locate the filter. Look to the left of the air filter housing and back some. It's attached to the tranny housing by a single 10mm bolt. The wide 3 point spring clamps are the biggest obstacles. I used a set of locking needle nose pliers on them.

Remove the hoses and remove the bolt holding the bracket in place. Re-assemble in reverse order and add fluid as needed. Think fuel filter on a non-pressurized fuel system

I had a Honda dealership tell me my car didn't have a servicable filter, but I've seen a diagram with part numbers on this site somewhere.

Dumb question - do you reach it from above or below?

Thats another way of doing. Did it come out of the lines rather fast or just a slow stream?

Eh, it came out at a pretty good clip. I stuck one end of the hose that I thought would be the one that would have fluid coming out (I was right) into a beer bottle.:D Then, my wife started the car for no more than 2 or 3 seconds and killed it. Within that little time frame it almost filled half the bottle.

The stock filter compared to the Magnefine is puny. The Magnefine is double its size so it gives you more media and a little more fluid for the tranny; which is a very good thing.

Dumb question - do you reach it from above or below?

I think Marc and I both reached from above. It is very easy to change out. You'd be going at it blind if you tried from the bottom.

When I replaced my tranny Jasper furnished a Magnafine to be installed for the 1st 1k. And then they supplied a new hose to install after the 1K . At 1 K Out with the Magnafine and in with the Hastings mag filter. I am about due to change again. I believe A/C Delco makes a magnetic inline ATF filter also.

I1:)

Do you know why they switched out the Magnafine filter for Hastings ?

Hey guys,

Long time reader, first time poster; I found a pretty interesting topic on another forum that I thought you may be interested in.


A guy opened up his Magnefine filter after approx. 28,000 miles of use (V6):
http://www.v6performance.net/forums/showthread.php?t=60257


Ordered me one today!!

I think Marc and I both reached from above. It is very easy to change out. You'd be going at it blind if you tried from the bottom.

Thanks. Picked up the filter today and 4 quarts ATF. It'll be a w/e project in a couple thousand more miles.

Damn it, I can't see the pics cause I'm at work!:thumbsdow I'll look tonight when I get home hopefully around midnight. From the description of the pictures though, it seems like it's a very well built filter.

Do you know why they switched out the Magnafine filter for Hastings ?

The they was me:D Magnafines run about 20 bucks a piece online and I can buy a Hastings locally for 10 bucks.
Jasper did not mention installing another filter after the 1st --- guess they think their tranny would be fine for the 75K warranty:nuts:

Hastings part # TF109
http://catalog.hastingsfilters.com/ go there and click product guide and put in the part # and click part specification.

I1:)

The Hastings looks identical to the Magnefine or vice versa. Wonder if the innards of the Hastings looks like the Magnefine as shown in the link above?

Not sure but I can cut one open when I change it here soon...

I am also not sure if it has a bypass or not ?? I can probably call the local rep and have him find out.

I1:)

^^^ That'll work. Keep us informed on what you find out.

"I immediately noticed quicker shifts under light acceleration. Before at a steady 50 mph it would seem to be waiting until 55 or 60 to shift into 5th. Now it will shift into 5th at a hair over 45 without hesitation."

I'm quoting myself here and posing a question. Has anyone had similiar results when replacing their filter? I believe replacing the stock filter with the Magnefine has increased flow back to the transmission, but maybe too much.

Today I approached a redlight and it turned green before I fully stopped. The transmission seemed to slip and catch as I sped off. I began watching the tachometer more closely on my way home. Down hills with my foot off the gas pedal, the tach would drop to approx 1200 RPMs. I now believe it may have dropped just below the stall speed. Could this be bad?

"I immediately noticed quicker shifts under light acceleration. Before at a steady 50 mph it would seem to be waiting until 55 or 60 to shift into 5th. Now it will shift into 5th at a hair over 45 without hesitation."

I'm quoting myself here and posing a question. Has anyone had similar results when replacing their filter? I believe replacing the stock filter with the Magnefine has increased flow back to the transmission, but maybe too much.

Today I approached a redlight and it turned green before I fully stopped. The transmission seemed to slip and catch as I sped off. I began watching the tachometer more closely on my way home. Down hills with my foot off the gas pedal, the tach would drop to approx 1200 RPMs. I now believe it may have dropped just below the stall speed. Could this be bad?

Hi, can't really answer question but maybe this will give some help even though i know you don't have 08 model.
I find my 5th gear goes in around 45 mph at low throttle (which seems to match what your results now)
I also notice first to second can happen at very low speeds if you back off throttle.
this can sometimes feel weird if you don't understand what happened. like if you don't come to a complete stop at a light or you start and let car roll at low speed. the car is in sec gear when you accel now it can give a odd feeling if you think you were still in first. This happens real fast, just as you hit throttle.
Now I can't say what your feeling is same as what I am describing but it does sound very similar.

I honestly think your stock filter was clogged and in by-pass mode .

Thanks Ed,
I feel better knowing yours is shifting similiarly. The drop in RPMs feels odd at times. I noticed this morn that my tach will briefly drop to 700-750 RPMS when approaching a light (downshifting I assume) but will recover to 1000 or so.

I have a second theory on what I felt yesterday. I may have broke traction on the paint strip under the light.

Thanks Ed,
I feel better knowing yours is shifting similiarly. The drop in RPMs feels odd at times. I noticed this morn that my tach will briefly drop to 700-750 RPMS when approaching a light (downshifting I assume) but will recover to 1000 or so.

I have a second theory on what I felt yesterday. I may have broke traction on the paint strip under the light.
Hi, I missed the part about low rpm with decel, that has to do with grade logic if your yr has that but in normal driving (relatively flat ) when you take foot off gas saying coming to a stop. The main thing controlling rpm is fuel injection system, mainly the idle speed control.
In fact many cars shut injectors way down on decel then when the rpm drops to below 1000 and before idle speed they kick on and the idle speed controller value adjust the right rpm.

Sometimes if you find your idle dips a little to low(below idle speed) then jumps to proper idle speeds you may need to check idle speed control value (might be gummed up).
This also depends on what accessories are running, if ac, defroster, lights, fans, radio etc are on, this can happen more.

I would just drive it more and note anything seems odd, your probably looking more now than before.
If trans shifting or idle rpm seems to get worse, have someone check it out .


Ed

Ok everybody here is the skinny on the Hastings TF109 Inline filter.

Per my conversation today with my local Hastings Rep. (He had to call the factory to find out) YES there is a by-pass valve.
The filter is made by Filtran.

After looking at my new filter and checking the patent I found this.....
http://www.google.com/patents?id=RZsFAAAAEBAJ.. Sure looks like it in the diagram.

Maybe I'll get it changed tomorrow and then cut it open.

I1:)

They look almost identical. Hmm, I'm ready to see yours cut open now.

Here you go........... after 12K miles.


I1:)

The magnet is molded around the inside of the canister.

It does pick up some gunk....

Here is the bypass valve in the element.

I1:)

After more research I found that the filter is also available from Wix # 58964

I found some 51964's on ebay. The seller says same filter just old #. Cannot be sure of that:dunno:


I1:)

Thanks for the pics Inspector. They are indeed different on the inside. Just trying to determine now which design will be more effective.

After more research I found that the filter is also available from Wix # 58964

I found some 51964's on ebay. The seller says same filter just old #. Cannot be sure of that:dunno:


I1:)
Interesting so it seems very similar to Magnafilter.
On Wix 58964 I found so spec info on it from Wix.

Part Number: 58964
UPC Number: 765809589643
Principal Application: Magnetic In-Line Transmission Filter 5/16" connections
All Applications
Style: In Line Transmission Filter
Service: Transmission
Height: 5.039
Outer Diameter Top: 2.402
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 4.8
Burst Pressure-PSI: 200
Max Flow Rate: 2-3 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 25
Note: Universal In-Line Transmission Filter (Can also be used on Power Steering) Designed for todays Automatic Transmissions 5/16" Connection.

nice they give filter micron and flow with bypass info too.

5/16" on the Wix is too small. Our's use 3/8".

MagneFine looks very effective from the V6P post but question is, why is there still some metal particles ending up on the magnetic drain plug? It's not a lot really, but I figured the Magnefine should have been much more effective in my case :dunno:

MagneFine looks very effective from the V6P post but question is, why is there still some metal particles ending up on the magnetic drain plug? It's not a lot really, but I figured the Magnefine should have been much more effective in my case :dunno:

Because a lot of sediment falls to the bottom of transmission and the pickup is above that level.
Important part is you don't want crap being pushed through pump and value body, ,which the filter stops.

Ed

I changed ours over to M1 AT doing a complete flush. M1 doesn't recommend there fluid to be used in any of the Honda AT's. It made the shifts firmer and dropped the over all fluid temps as messured by my fluke. ( I posted about this some where on driveaccord ) The wife has since asked that I make her car shift like a slush box trash car once again. So Ive started using ATFZ1 again to keep her happy. Seeing that I dont drive the car much anymore. And mainly because of the near worthless AT. I begrudgingly put the ATFZ1 back in so it can shift like a blue hair's car and heat up the fluid with its soft slip shifts.

At any rate. If you want to keep your car for the long run as we wish to do. CHANGE THE FILTER AND FLUID!!!!!

heh, i had the same experience switching to M1 ATF, but eventually the transmission stopped going into overdrive/last gear. I switched back to ATF-Z1 and it went away. . .

I replaced my filter with one of these magnefine filters. Somehow i have developed a very bad leak from the area of the magnefine filter. Im going to remove the filter and put a stock one back on there. Theres alot of fluid and thats where im going to start my search for the leak. Dont want to scare anyone but I will post what i find.

THanks

I replaced my filter with one of these magnefine filters. Somehow i have developed a very bad leak from the area of the magnefine filter. Im going to remove the filter and put a stock one back on there. Theres alot of fluid and thats where im going to start my search for the leak. Dont want to scare anyone but I will post what i find.

THanks

Hmm... I ordered a Magnafine as well but I'm wondering if I should put it on now. I'll guess I'll wait and see your results.

Btw, do you have a V6 or I4 and how many miles?

Hmm... I ordered a Magnafine as well but I'm wondering if I should put it on now. I'll guess I'll wait and see your results.

Btw, do you have a V6 or I4 and how many miles?

Lots of people have been running the Magnefine for a long time and have had no problems. My Ody has no filter in it and I had to add it into the lines, DIY'ed it and no leaks in over 10K. There's no reason not to put it on.

Hmm... I ordered a Magnafine as well but I'm wondering if I should put it on now. I'll guess I'll wait and see your results.

Btw, do you have a V6 or I4 and how many miles?

I jumped on the bandwagon for the magnafine since it was only $20 shipped as well but I'm hesitant to install mine now. I will probably just do the trans filter replacement.

Hey folks, im sure your filters are fine, thats the reason i installed mine, i have been running it for 10k. I just posted my post in this thread to see if there have been any problems with those who have installed it.

Thanks for clarifying the situation Benji. When it gets warmer I'll definitely change out the stock filter for the Magnafine.

Stick is better. Only clutch assembly once a while :)

Stick is better. Only clutch assembly once a while :)

I agree 100% my next car will be a stick

My local shop replaced my filter for me (with my magnafine). 40k miles later, it's due to be swapped again.

Hey guys...for the life of me I can't get those damn clips off the hoses on either end of the OEM filter. I have a pair of needle nose pliers and have squeezed hard to the point my hand started hurting by the suckers are tough! Any suggestions on how to get those clamps off so I can remove the OEM ATF filter ??

just an update i was finally able to get those darn clamps off....what worked for me was removing the airbox cover to create some more elbow room and used needle nose pliers that had small handles to fit in that tight space.

Bump

Thinking about doing this myself.

Any updates.

Has the magnefine worked well?

Update about M1 transmission fluid. I found that there is a new formulation that does indeed meet Honda ATF Z1 specifications. I did a drain and fill on my 6G Civic and it's shifting is excellent.

Just thought I'd let you all know. I'll be using M1 in my wife's 03 EX 4cyl when it is due :).

PS I did replace the Accord filter with another Honda unit at 90,000 miles (shortly after buying the car). Love this thread!

ScottDR - I am pretty sure that even the new M1 is not NOT approved by Honda and will void your warranty (if you have any).
However it may work just fine if Mobil's engineering department has bigger budget than marketing, I'll wait for your results :-)

ScottDR - I am pretty sure that even the new M1 is not NOT approved by Honda and will void your warranty (if you have any).
However it may work just fine if Mobil's engineering department has bigger budget than marketing, I'll wait for your results :-)

odessit,

Have you had your Honda approved $2500-$3500 transmission remanufature?

I have not and hope not to in the future.

Ergo I will skip crappy Z1 ATF for a full sythetic.

I have not used Honda approved PSF for 40k miles and my steering works great

I have not used Honda approved brake fluid but using Motul 5.1 has improved brake pedal feel.

I have never used Honda branded engine oil yet my UOA look great.

Update about M1 transmission fluid. I found that there is a new formulation that does indeed meet Honda ATF Z1 specifications. I did a drain and fill on my 6G Civic and it's shifting is excellent.

Are you referring to this one (https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Other_Products/Mobil_1_Synthetic_ATF.aspx) or this one (https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Other_Products/Mobil_Multi-Vehicle_ATF.aspx)?

anyone got a link to the actual magnefine replacement filter kit?
this site is asking the sizes and some optional smart connects
http://www.emergingent.com/magnefine/order_page.htm

anywhere else i can buy online?

Are you referring to this one (https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Other_Products/Mobil_1_Synthetic_ATF.aspx) or this one (https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Other_Products/Mobil_Multi-Vehicle_ATF.aspx)?


The first one (hence the 1, as in synthetic). I'd have no problem with the second one (standard non-synthetic) but like the added protection of their premium products. That's why I run their syn. oil for 7,500 miles per change in my 6G Civic, and 10,000 miles in the 03 Accord with neither burning any oil at 180,000 and 106,000 miles.

odessit: Any fluid can be used that has this designation as any manufacturer would have to prove the fluid was at fault to void your warranty. It is well documented that the 7G Accord transmissions had 2nd gear issues due to overheating and the fluid could not be blamed. To correct the issue they installed basically a spray nozzle to have the fluid hit 2nd gear.

That being said, I've used non-Honda transmission fluid (but meeting specifications) in the same 6G Civic automatic for the last 80,000 miles since I bought the car with 100,000 with no problems. So...I think I may be just past a 'warranty' claim due to my mileage being slightly over the 36,000 original warranty at 180,000 miles :).

ScottDR, I understand your point perfectly. What PSF are you using?

anyone got a link to the actual magnefine replacement filter kit?
this site is asking the sizes and some optional smart connects
http://www.emergingent.com/magnefine/order_page.htm

anywhere else i can buy online?

is this the right filter in the link?
do i need to buy the smart connects?

is this the right filter in the link?
do i need to buy the smart connects?

I have purchased twice from the website that was listed earlier by another member. No need to buy the smart connects. The size is 3/8".

I did what another forum member did, I cut my filter apart after the first install. (It was in for about 15K). I think the miles on my 4cylinder '07 Accord was like 30K. I took out the standard issue Honda in-line filter and installed the Magnefine. To my amazement, after I cut it apart there were not any metal particles to speak of in the filter! But then again, I have been draining out three quarts every 15K.

I plan on extending that interval as the fluid is still very pink.

Good luck.

I looked on my '03 EX 3.0L and I didn't find an external filter. Anybody have an 03 V6 that's done this that could tell me where it is? I called the trans shop that rebuilt my tranny they told me that because the trans cooler doesn't go through the radiator it shouldn't have an external filter.

V6 does not have external filter, but has internal filter...It's under DIY...

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=13804

thanks!

does the magnefine filter fit the oem hoses and use the same clamps as the original filter???

does the magnefine filter fit the oem hoses and use the same clamps as the original filter???
Yes and no. You have to use zip ties to secure it; the OEM clamp is too small. All you need to get is the Magnefine filter with 3/8" fittings, and you're good to go.

I don't believe the oem filter, or any replacement needs to be changed out greater than 30-50k stop-n-go, 60-75k of hwy. I'm shooting for 60k.

I have 45k, 40k on AMSoil ATF. Getting ready to change soon, but will probally use the MaxLife ATF I have sitting around. I'll do the 1st filter change when I do the ATF again in a year, to get the percent of MaxLife up.

I don't believe the oem filter, or any replacement needs to be changed out greater than 30-50k stop-n-go, 60-75k of hwy. I'm shooting for 60k.

I have 45k, 40k on AMSoil ATF. Getting ready to change soon, but will probally use the MaxLife ATF I have sitting around. I'll do the 1st filter change when I do the ATF again in a year, to get the percent of MaxLife up.

This is my Magnefine filter after 10K on the Ody with a majority freeway mileage (roadtrip car). I lock it in gear in the city to minimize shifting. My commute had 14 stoplights over 2.7 miles and I only allow it to do the 1-2 shift, nothing else. I even use neutral to back out of my sloped driveway. During that 10K interval, I changed the ATF THREE TIMES.

I'm not going to tell anybody when to change their filters. They can look at the filters and they can tell me when to change it. That black stuff on the paper towel is metal shavings that the magnet caught that the paper filter didn't

What type of clamp did you use over the OEM ones...

BenjiBoy, let me guess. Non-Honda ATF?

BenjiBoy, let me guess. Non-Honda ATF?

Of course...Honda doesn't know how to design AT's, don't trust their ATF.

Thanks to this thread, I just bought my Magnefine.

Thanks to everyone!

Of course...Honda doesn't know how to design AT's, don't trust their ATF.
What do you recommend? I thought ATF-Z1 was the way to go

I use Redline D4 ATF.... Works and shifts great with no tranny whine....

BenjiBoy, let me guess. Non-Honda ATF?




I would stick with the Honda ATF and change it once every 15,000 miles meaning 1 D/R also changing the transmission filter every 30,000

I use Redline D4 ATF.... Works and shifts great with no tranny whine....
What about in reverse?? LOL

I use Amsoil. I thought about using D4 until I saw that CompTech recommended Redline's High-Temp ATF for their supercharged TL and then had problems with it. People started talking and the consensus from what very little I read is that the Redline fluids will require LubeGard, where the Amsoil ATF will not. Who knows...

So there are better fluids out there but Im safe with Z1 right and just change it every 15k

So there are better fluids out there but Im safe with Z1 right and just change it every 15k

I believe so...your tranny is under a lot less stress than my Odyssey, where I could definitely see lower temps with synthetic ATF. But for an Accord, I'd say Z1 is sufficient, it will probably not have many heat issues.

I believe so...your tranny is under a lot less stress than my Odyssey, where I could definitely see lower temps with synthetic ATF. But for an Accord, I'd say Z1 is sufficient, it will probably not have many heat issues.
What about the wife's 2008 Element SC,go same as the accord?

What about the wife's 2008 Element SC,go same as the accord?

Think Z1 should be fine, it would be better for warranty too.

BenjiBoy650 always shares knowledge thank you!

I agree if it is under warranty use Z1 like i did....but after dump it and use something better....such as redline d4 or amsoil...

In my experience, both Mobil 1 synthetic and Castrol Import ATF (both claiming to meet ATF-Z1 specs) are no where near as effective and create hard shifting and magnified wear issues. I'd definitely recommend sticking with ATF-Z1.

No so with the Redline D4.... works great and took care of the tranny whine.....Why use a dino based atf when there are much better in the form of Syn....