These are the procedures I took in order to Drain and Fill my Automatic Transmission on my 2005 Honda Accord EX-L I4 (4Cyl).
The things I had handy while doing this procedures are:
1. 3/8" Rachet
2. Transmission Funnel and 1/4 in tubing
3. 1 gallon plastic container.

Please do not post until I have posted 12 Posts!!!!

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb276/gearboxracquetball/DSC02094.jpg

These are the instruction in accordance with the Honda Service Manual.

1. Warm up the vehicle to operating temperatures (the cooling fan should come on).
2. Park vehicle on level ground.



http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb276/gearboxracquetball/DSC02079.jpg

Pop the hood up and locate the transmission dip stick. It is on the right side of the engine. It has a yellow round handle.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb276/gearboxracquetball/DSC02080.jpg

Now that you have located the Dip stick, look under the vehicle to find the transmission drain bolt.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb276/gearboxracquetball/DSC02082.jpg

Use the 3/8" rachet to remove the transmission drain bolt. (my transmission bolt was on very tight) Have your container handy.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb276/gearboxracquetball/DSC02084.jpg

Drain all fluid into the container. Approximately 3 quarts should come out.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb276/gearboxracquetball/DSC02087.jpg

The drain bolt wasn't too dirty.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb276/gearboxracquetball/DSC02091.jpg

Dispose of the ATF in a container that will allow you to transport it to the nearest parts store for disposal.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb276/gearboxracquetball/DSC02089.jpg

Reinstall the transmission drain bolt.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb276/gearboxracquetball/DSC02092.jpg

Insert the hose attached to the funnel. I didn't have a leak at all. I filled the transmission with 3 quarts of Honda ATF-Z1. Each quart cost $6.07.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb276/gearboxracquetball/DSC02093.jpg

Filling the transmission through the dipstick hole because I didn't want to mess with pumping fluid into the transmission fill bolt hole. Fill the transmission slowly because if you do it to fast the fluid can back up and overflow.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb276/gearboxracquetball/DSC02095.jpg

Once you have filled the transmission with the recommended amount (3.0 quarts), insert the dip stick back into the transmission tube. I only did this process once because the fluid is not to dark and my car has 35,000 miles. From here on out, I will be doing the drain and fill process every time I change my oil.
Dont forget to check the fluid level. Warm up the car untill the cooling fan comes on, turn the car off and you have up to 90 seconds to check the level. CONGRATULATIONS
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb276/gearboxracquetball/DSC02096.jpg

Good work. Thanks. I'm sure every 7th Gen owner here will appreciate it.

Oh, and first post (?).

I am looking forward to changing my fluids, just took delivery on Saturday. I found and quoted the amsoil site in the other ATF thread. They claim it is compatible with all ATF's and good for 50k severe or 100k normal usage.

Good work. Thanks. I'm sure every 7th Gen owner here will appreciate it.

Oh, and first post (?).



....while we appreciate your work, there are a few of us out here that will stick with the factory 120,000 mile change interval. (Rock on 6M)

Seriously, nice job.

best, ez....

Thanks for this tutorial!

If one were to add on the additional step of replacing the tranny fluid filter... would it be tough to do? Anyone can chime in.... it's been relatively easy on all my other previous cars...

I have 2001, F23A4, and myn sez to use 2.6 Qrts; I did the 2.6 Qrts and over filled it....
I find that its closer to about 2.1 Qrts. Its easer to put in than take out. I get it to the minimum mark and get it off the ramps, recheck, warm it up (fan on once), recheck. Then if still OK (in the hatch mark), then I drive it till its worm, recheck. Thare a real difference hot, warm, and Cold for both engine oil and trany oil???

I would add to replace the crush washer on the drain bolt.

#1 I would add to replace the crush washer on the drain bolt.

#2 Thanks for this tutorial!
If one were to add on the additional step of replacing the tranny fluid filter... would it be tough to do? Anyone can chime in.... it's been relatively easy on all my other previous cars...

Answers

#1 As recommended by the Honda Service Manual, always replace the crush washers when performing the Transmission Drain/Fill procedure and the Engine Oil Change Procedure. Thanks Benjamming for the reminder

#2 I am merely trying to put in a good finished product that other can use since I take so much information from this forum, adding a tutorial or two is another way of giving back.
There is no Transmission Filter you can replace. Its not like a Ford, GMC Yukon, Nissan Maxima (vehicles I have changed transmission filter on) that have a transmission pan you drain and then remove numerous bolts to reveal a replaceable filter. There is a Cooler Line Filter that basically is not listed in any maintenance manual. Some dealers have no clue about it. I think its because they don't expect to ever (LOL) change it.

Here is the info on it by the Honda Service Manual.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb276/gearboxracquetball/DSC02098.jpg

To locate the "ATF FILTER" standing at the drivers side of the vehicle look inbetween the engine and the airbox as pictured below.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb276/gearboxracquetball/DSC02101.jpg

Or you can stand at the front of the vehicle. Look straight back from the Transmission Fluid Dip Stick and you will see the filter. The Filter from Honda Cost on average $20.00, but more than likely they will have to order it because it is not a common filter they replace, infact, the dealer in Tacoma Washington has never replaced one. (According to the parts department, :dunno:)
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb276/gearboxracquetball/DSC02103.jpg

Here is a close up of the "ATF FILTER" removed and cut open. Pic edited from MARC04LX, thread http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=14699 . Keep in mind, No where is there a maintenance interval on this filter. You will only get others opinions on when to replace it. But at a mere $20, I will be doing it annually. I will also be calling Honda Customer Service and asking more about this filter. So more to follow.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb276/gearboxracquetball/ATFFILTER.jpg
PART # 25430-PLR-003
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb276/gearboxracquetball/ATFCUTOPEN.jpg

Looks like AC Delco makes a filter kit. TF100M/TF101M

I would look for a external filter kit with more filter media.

Great thread on this topic. Really good quality pictures. Thanks for your efforts.:notworthy:thmsup::yes:

Even though I have done 2 D&F's, I was a bit unclear about the ATF filter location. The plan is to change mine at 50K.

thanks for all the thorough follow-up and pics... appreciated !

This link was provided by MARCO4LX, www.emergingent.com . This seems to be a nice filter. MARCO4LX also says "I immediately noticed quicker shifts under light acceleration. Before at a steady 50 mph it would seem to be waiting until 55 or 60 to shift into 5th. Now in will shift into 5th at a hair over 45 with out hesitation."

If you go to the site click on magnefine, then view over to the left of the page where it says Online Store, click on that and you will see the different types of filters. I am not sure if I would use one only because they dont fit in the housing area. MARCO4LX had to zip tie it to the housing and I am not to keen on that idea. For $18.00 I think I will just stick to the OEM filter and change it once a year.

krazyfiend,hermann no problem....:thmsup:. Just trying to provide more information and provide a decent product for eveyone and myself to enjoy and understand.

After reading this thread last week, you have inspired me to change my atf. I checked the dipstick and after 50,000 miles it's none too clean.

....while we appreciate your work, there are a few of us out here that will stick with the factory 120,000 mile change interval.


Shame, shame. I fell sorry for your transmission. I guarantee you that after 40k or so, your filter's already plugged and being by-passed. I'd like to see your drain plug w/ all those shavings on it after 120k... if it makes it that long.

Why pay $20 at the dealer when you can get a much bigger and better filter for the same price? Its a 10mm bolt that holds the filter bracket on the bellhousing. Take it off and zip tie the Magnefine on. That OEM one is way too small in my opinion.

I'm still awe struck that not one parts dept. has ever seen or heard of it. I saw it within the 1st 5 minutes of digging around under the hood. I replaced mine with the Magnefine at 2k and will be doing it again at 20k. Magnefine suggests 15k on the first one and then 30k after that.

I did end up going with the Magnefine merely because it does offer a bigger filter. I can't wait till it gets here to install it and to have the peace of mind now there is a better filter system there than before.

I will definately be doing this soon. For those of you that bought the Magnefilters, on the website, what options did you choose ( 3/8", with or without smart connects??) Any updates on how they are working as well will be appreciated

lets not all chime in at once. LOL! :biggrin:

Yeah, the 3/8" one. The smart connects are for connecting to metal lines - not needed in this install.

Mines been on over a month now. My shifts are sooner under light acceleration. I think this is a good thing, no restriction of vital fluid. The magnet has to keep the filter cleaner too.

Ok sounds good, Thanks! Im definately going to order mine. :biggrin:

Thanks Armystrong for the detailed tutorial for replacing the ATF on the 7th gen Accords! Though I have a 2001 Accord, I was able to use your instructions (the biggest difference is that the drain bolt is on passenger side on the 2001).

Since my car has 90K miles on it and had never had a ATF replace, I did the drain/fill three times spread over 2 days. Because the car is so low to the ground, I jacked up the side just a tad to be able to work. I did lower the car to complete the draining process on the 2nd and 3rd drains.

Unlike what has been mentioned by many posters on this subject, I was only able to use 2.6 qts, 2.4 qts and 2.8 qts in my three fills. After each fill the dipstick showed a level between min and max. Obviously, after the third fill, I show closer to the Max level. Should I have any cause for concern?

-R

No I wouldn't be concerned as long as when you check it, the level of the fluid is not over the max mark. There is no telling how much actually gets stored in the convertor everytime you added fluid so that may be the reason why the is a slight difference. Glad the DIY helped alittle.
Take Care

Thanks for the write up. I am at 40k and just did the drain and fill. Plug was a little worse than yours, but not much.

Thanks for the write up. I am at 40k and just did the drain and fill. Plug was a little worse than yours, but not much.

I hope the thread helped make the job easier. Take Care:thmsup:

Just ordered the magnefine filter and making plans to begin some drain and fill rotations. Really appreciate the info. With 90k miles on a replaced tranny (I know, I know...I was amazed I had let it go that long but the miles crept up while I was just sailing along thinking, got a new tranny so keep an eye on other things).

Also, I have a connection with a relative for BMG Specialty Fluid Products. I'll start this on another thread but...very impressed with their stuff for oil and gas treatments so far...wondering if their highly rated ATF is worth a shot. ANyone else used their stuff? (Mostly biz to biz sales of this stuff so you find it in the shops vs on a shelf.)

Anyone getting a good deal on Honda's ATF fluid online? Or, is everyone going to the local dealership for this?



Lex

I didnt try online, i just went to the stealerhip and ordered me some. I also got new crush washers there.


Oh by the way, thanks everyone i finally finished all my drains and re-fills and added the magnefine filter!! everything works great. Need i mention that i dont think my tranny had ever been flushed, i just finished the last drain and refill at 74k!!!

Hey Lex, Do you ever make it into S.C.? I got a case of Z1 at Piedmont Honda (in Anderson) for like $4.80 a quart. Maybe a dealer in your area would be as reasonable.

Did you have to raise your car or pull anything out? Because I can't see anything under. What color should the fluid be? I get a perfect brown when checking with the dipstick.

Sorry .. Honda Changed mine on Sep 2007 and now when i measure without starting the car, its below the minimum leval ? is tht mean its leaking ? .. how long i need to keep the car runnning ?

Checking mine hot or cold isn't more than 1/8" difference. Check it cold and again within 30 mins after a trip home and see for yourself. The correct procedure is closer to the latter. Just make sure you're parked an a level spot.

How do you remove the clamps off the lines???


Those rascals are really on there and in a tight space.

I did two drain&fills, a day apart, on my '03 (121,000 miles). It was the first time it was changed, in accordance (no pun intended) with the maintenance schedule. It went well, I used 6 quarts.

I actually got 6 quarts of Z1 shipped to me from California for less money than I could buy them from my local dealer. I'd like to give the dealer some of my business, but they seem to be intent on screwing their customers without benefit of even a reach-around.

I will probably order a filter from them and install it, although the manual doesn't call for it. The car seems to be working as well as ever, perhaps shifting a bit more smoothly, but I had no complaints before the change. Thanks for this thread and the information it contains.

RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
As I said before, I never repeat myself.

Hey Lex,
Yeah, the clamps are a PITA. I used locking needle-nose pliers laid horizontal to the hoses. I've seen specialty pliers that would work better, but I forget where I saw them.

Does anyone know what's the proper drain plug torque for a V6? Thanks!

Sorry I can't help you with the torque, my manual is only for the 4cyl.
Take Care

Shame, shame. I fell sorry for your transmission. I guarantee you that after 40k or so, your filter's already plugged and being by-passed. I'd like to see your drain plug w/ all those shavings on it after 120k... if it makes it that long.

He drives a manual btw. Manual honda trannies dont know have a filter to filter out metal shavings. There are huge rare earth magnets that pick up these shavings.

Does anyone know what's the proper drain plug torque for a V6? Thanks!

For the 7th gen....

5.0 kgf-m
36 lbf-ft

For the 7th gen....

5.0 kgf-m
36 lbf-ft

Thank you!

Is the service manual picture for a 4cyl? I noticed that there was no mention of the torque specs for the drain bolt other than this picture.

Is the service manual picture for a 4cyl? I noticed that there was no mention of the torque specs for the drain bolt other than this picture.
Not sure....I have the Honda V6 supplement manual which is where I got the info I posted above.

I'm getting ready to replace the factory(2004 Accord) Trans filter with a magnafine. (Thanks for the recomendation). Which direction do you install it. I would believe the flow would go towards the transmission. Thanks for the info. I'm just very Nervous bout installing it backwards.

The arrow should point to the firewall. The stock bracket will not accomodate the magnefine. If the hoses are shortened, something stock-looking could be done with a trip to the hardware store. I left the hoses as-is and used a tie strap to hold it slightly back and to the right of the stock location.

I've logged about 9K miles since I did mine. The shifts are quicker than before and sooner under light accereration, but no problems to report.

ok i have about 10k miles on mine 2007 right now when should i change mine ? atf and filter??

Thanks for the DIY!

ok i have about 10k miles on mine 2007 right now when should i change mine ? atf and filter??

I think if you do it, you will notice much smoother shifts.

I have a 2007 V6, and my automatic transmission was flushed at the dealer at 9K miles. It wasn't on purpose though. The AT was jerking very badly and at times felt like the car was going to seize up (this is only at 9K miles on the odometer). I took it to the dealer who said the fluid in my car was abnormally dark, and they did a flush. The transmission was silky smooth afterward.

However, I'm a bit over 15K miles now, and it's shifting hard now. I'm wondering if I should just do a quick drain-and-fill (3 quarts).

I won't ever flush the transmission again (since I know those are bad for the AT), but the dealer recommended it, it was still a fairly new car (so no gunk buildup to be flushed loose yet), and it was covered under warranty.

Them drain bolts are stubborn. Just to confirm, clockwise to loosen?

Them drain bolts are stubborn. Just to confirm, clockwise to loosen?

Counterclockwise to loosen!!!

Righty tighty, lefty loosey! :D

I skipped all my classes today because my daughter was sick, i guess it turned out into my DIY and maintainence day.

-honda OEM filtech cabin and air filter
-honda OEM ....A01 filtech oil filter and washer
-1 gallon honda type 2 coolant
-3 quarts ATF
~all for about $100 from my local Honda (shipping from online vendors would have been only about $10 cheaper minus the fluids)

just some notes:
-transmission drain plug is a PITA to get loose, had to go to a local oil change for them to get it loose!!!! :rant:
-filling the transmission back up with ATF is also a PITA (created a makeshift funnel/tube assembly and spilled ATF everywhere) :furious:
-previous oil filter was on too tight!!! :thumbsdow
-car runs smoother now with M1 5W20
-no changes in shifting however

took me a whole afternoon to do all these as a Honda noob, hopefully next time will be under an hour, have a good friday and thanks for this DIY

-filling the transmission back up with ATF is also a PITA (created a makeshift funnel/tube assembly and spilled ATF everywhere) :furious:

Did you use the transmission fill bolt?

Did you use the transmission fill bolt?

there's a transmission fill bolt for the AV6? noway.. i must have missed it oh man... well now when i do another drain in fill in a couple of days i will look for it, where is it anyways?

there's a transmission fill bolt for the AV6? noway.. i must have missed it oh man... well now when i do another drain in fill in a couple of days i will look for it, where is it anyways?

As you stand next to your car on the drivers side...find the air filter housing...as you move back toward the cabin..next to that is a fuse box I believe...move to the end of the fuse box toward the engine and just as you reach the end of the fuse box, look down...you should be looking at the ATF fill bolt.

As you stand next to your car on the drivers side...find the air filter housing...as you move back toward the cabin..next to that is a fuse box I believe...move to the end of the fuse box toward the engine and just as you reach the end of the fuse box, look down...you should be looking at the ATF fill bolt.

Yup, it's around the master cylinder area. The bolt is actually labeled "ATF" on some Honda V6 vehicles. It's a 19MM if I recall correctly. It's on very, very tight so you'll need a six-point socket and a long breaker bar to snap it loose.

there's a transmission fill bolt for the AV6? noway.. i must have missed it oh man... well now when i do another drain in fill in a couple of days i will look for it, where is it anyways?


Here's a pic on an 03 V6. The fill plug is now occupied by the 2nd gear oil jet install kit. Note: The air box housing is removed.

Here is a close up of the "ATF FILTER" removed and cut open. Pic edited from MARC04LX, thread http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=14699 . Keep in mind, No where is there a maintenance interval on this filter. You will only get others opinions on when to replace it. But at a mere $20, I will be doing it annually. I will also be calling Honda Customer Service and asking more about this filter. So more to follow.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb276/gearboxracquetball/ATFFILTER.jpg
PART # 25430-PLR-003
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb276/gearboxracquetball/ATFCUTOPEN.jpg Has your filter came with the mounting bracket attached? I ordered the same part # and I got just the filter, without the mounting hole or the lip. On your picture it looks like the mounting bracket it part of the filter...

I believe what is pictured there is an in-line filter to be used only on the 4cyl.

i put 3.0 quarts and it was an inch above the upper mark. is that ok?

also was i suppose to change out atf filter?

i put 3.0 quarts and it was an inch above the upper mark. is that ok?

also was i suppose to change out atf filter?

An inch above the upper mark is too much.

How are you checking the fluid level? Are you checking it immediately after shut down after a long drive?

The filter change is highly recommended but is not mandatory.

i put 3.0 quarts and it was an inch above the upper mark. is that ok?

An inch sounds like a lot... What is the diff between min/max? Probably 1/2"? I would drain to hit between min/max and double check you measure correctly.

Maybe your car was not parked on even road when you drained and you drained not really 3 quarts?

also was i suppose to change out atf filter?

Not necessary but you could.

....while we appreciate your work, there are a few of us out here that will stick with the factory 120,000 mile change interval.
120,000k miles on same ATF fluid!!!!!!!!:headbash::headbash::headbash:
No thanks.I wouldn't even have did they to my focus.The max I will go on ATF is 30k.I'm almost tempted to change it at 15k Just to start off fresh and get that fluid from factory out

An inch above the upper mark is too much.

How are you checking the fluid level? Are you checking it immediately after shut down after a long drive?

The filter change is highly recommended but is not mandatory.

i jacked my car then i drained it. i put the bolt bak on, unjacked the car and filled it with 3.0 quarts. and yes i did drain til no more was coming out.

i also started the car for 90 seconds and then i checked the dip stick. i did this 3x. i'm not sure if i'm reading it wrong. i'm gonna check it again tonight.

An inch sounds like a lot... What is the diff between min/max? Probably 1/2"? I would drain to hit between min/max and double check you measure correctly.

Maybe your car was not parked on even road when you drained and you drained not really 3 quarts?



Not necessary but you could.

i drained 3 quarts because i poured the ATF into my empty 5-quart mobil one container.

at how many miles is it recommended to change ATF filter? should i jus go ahead and change it my next ATF change then?

thanks for the replies guys

There is absolutely no where in any manual, recommending the owners to change the inline transmission filter. Replacing it with a magnefine filter is really your only option unless you can come up with some sort of other inline filter.

If you go to the dealer and ask them for the "inline transmission filter", they wont have a clue. I tried this approach, grinning.

My recommendation when draining the fluid into a container is to measure how much fluid comes out so you can add the same amount of ATF-Z1 back into the transmission.

*****Make This A Sticky******

....while we appreciate your work, there are a few of us out here that will stick with the factory 120,000 mile change interval

And have to visit a tranny shop down the road....Remember what is Honda in bussiness for....To sell you a NEW car...

And have to visit a tranny shop down the road....Remember what is Honda in bussiness for....To sell you a NEW car...

See, I think you missed the bigger picture. Honda doesn't want a one-time customer, they want to earn loyal, repeat customers for life. Studies have shown that consumers are keeping their vehicles much longer than they used to. While not everyone keeps their cars for 200k, 100k or more is becoming more and more common.

Based on your reasoning, Honda would want their vehicles to experience a premature component failure so that they may sell you another vehicle. However, if your Honda (or any other brand vehicle) experiences a major component failure during the term of your ownership, you are far less likely to purchase another vehicle from the same manufacturer. It would not be in Honda's best interest for customer retention if they intentionally designed their transmissions to fail before the first scheduled service interval, right? Therefore, I think your logic is a bit flawed.

A more logical way to gain your business:
-Make a great vehicle that is low-maintenance and high reliability.
-Get the customer to love the vehicle for 5-6 years
-Introduce an even better version of that vehicle, and convince customer that he needs to buy the newer one.
-Lather, rinse, repeat.

I'm not saying this is necessarily Honda's way, but I doubt they want to put a crappy product out there and have the balls to try to sell you another one after it breaks.

WRT the trans fluid level check, I read in the owner's manual and several service bulletins that you should shift between R and D a few times. This is done between drain and fills. Ideally, you want the torque converter to lock, but this is assuming it's on a lift.

A more logical way to gain your business:
-Make a great vehicle that is low-maintenance and high reliability.
-Get the customer to love the vehicle for 5-6 years
-Introduce an even better version of that vehicle, and convince customer that he needs to buy the newer one.
-Lather, rinse, repeat.

I'm not saying this is necessarily Honda's way, but I doubt they want to put a crappy product out there and have the balls to try to sell you another one after it breaks.

WRT the trans fluid level check, I read in the owner's manual and several service bulletins that you should shift between R and D a few times. This is done between drain and fills. Ideally, you want the torque converter to lock, but this is assuming it's on a lift.

Refer GM:

- Make a vehicle to generally last 90k miles with several components having engineered obselescence at 45k and 60k (Altenator, AC Compressor, etc.). This will add to the profits lost on semi-engineering the newly designed parts.
- Spend money on "incredible" color choices, more padding in the seats, a bigger kit for dealer display saying "USA #1", and general marketing, even if it means pirating the engineering budget (kill off a couple of the latest engine features and re-introduce later, use some of the last gen's engineering and drivelines) and cutting back on some of the material costs (thinner density plastics, a little less insulation here and there, lower the OEM requirements on tires and glass, etc (Sound too familiar with Honda and Toyo on that part?)).
- Then make up for any lacking in comparisons to competition with highly bolstered financing options and perks to the dealers for incentives.
And voila! You have about 50 years worth of market and profits to run with. If the competition gets too tough to maintain the high profit margins, just use government money handed over in the name of protection for all the people you employ. :thmsup:

I still say that keeping the at fluid in for 120,000 is way to long as is the 100,000 mile plugs. I say every 10,000 miles or so do the tranny drain and about 60,000 change the plugs. That is my opinion...It is kind of like the tie rods greased for life....Ill take a grease fitting...

I think if you do it, you will notice much smoother shifts.

I have a 2007 V6, and my automatic transmission was flushed at the dealer at 9K miles. It wasn't on purpose though. The AT was jerking very badly and at times felt like the car was going to seize up (this is only at 9K miles on the odometer). I took it to the dealer who said the fluid in my car was abnormally dark, and they did a flush. The transmission was silky smooth afterward.

However, I'm a bit over 15K miles now, and it's shifting hard now. I'm wondering if I should just do a quick drain-and-fill (3 quarts).

I won't ever flush the transmission again (since I know those are bad for the AT), but the dealer recommended it, it was still a fairly new car (so no gunk buildup to be flushed loose yet), and it was covered under warranty.


How hard to you drive? Mine is slightly over 10k miles and the fluid is still pinkish/red!

Yes, Honda has the ATF fluid change interval at 120k miles. That was before the V6 transmission recall. I don't think Honda had the recall planned when they decided on 120k miles.

I have found that if you break loose the drain plug when it is cold it will break a lot easier then hot...Just break it loose cold snug it back up and go for a drive to heat it up...then drain....l

It maybe just my eyes, but did you raise your vehicle?

Hey guys, I followed this DIY and was able to drain and fill successfully. Thanks a lot!! :thmsup:

However, messed up in the part where you say "pour slowly to avoid spills." I guess I got a little overconfident and poured too quickly. :headbash: Anyway, some fluid spilled out and got on engine parts (I'm not savvy enough to spell them out, but you probably know which ones would get dirty.) I tried to wipe it all up, but it was very hard to get it all. Should I be concerned? I am mostly worried about rubber and plastic parts. Should I spay it with Simply Green or something similar, just to make sure? Any advice will be appreciated!

Simple Green will work then wash off with water....

Simple Green will work then wash off with water....
Alright, I'll do that just to make sure. Thanks!

Thanks for making this DYI. I had just posted in the fluid forum about my tranny issue and decided to change the fluid. I also ordered the Magnefine filter so on Monday I will pick up some fluid and a washer from the dealer.

I'm now in the DIY ATF drain and fill club. :thmsup:

At 73,366 miles, the color of the ATF was actually pretty good. It's a little darker shade of red but nothing to be alarmed. I did the drain and fill 3 times using 9 qts of Honda ATF from Bernardi Honda since they sell their ATF for only $6 and some change a quart compared to all 3 of my surrounding Honda and Acura dealers' $8.60 and $9.68/qt, respectively. So at 100k, I'll be doing another drain and fill, but not all 9 quarts.

I'm surprised how much smoother the tranny shifts. It felt like I was driving the car off the lot...again. It's a good feeling.

EDIT: One more thing. Here is the official Honda bulletin on how to do the drain and fill:

http://www.crvoc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=13701&postcount=1

For those who replaced the filer with a Magnefine, did you reuse the original clamps or the ones that came with the filter? I'm having a real issue getting the original clamps to release. Not much room in that hole where the filter is.
:dunno:

For those who replaced the filer with a Magnefine, did you reuse the original clamps or the ones that came with the filter? I'm having a real issue getting the original clamps to release. Not much room in that hole where the filter is.
:dunno:

I haven't done one myself, but are you using locking pliers to remove the clamps.

Well I just finished my 1st DYI tranny drain & fill. My arms are all scraped up and raw but I finished the job. Insight is always a good thing when taking on projects. What would of saved me a lot of time and pain to my arms was to have some locking pliers that would of made sliding those darn hose clamps down to remove the filter. Removing the filer would of been simpler if I had actually removed the clamp that was securing it first vs. trying to remove the hoses. I ended up leaving off the clamp since it doesn't fit the new filter and took a zip tie and came through the botom of the bracket around the filter. Tightened everything up, dumped in 3 quarts of Honda ATF and took a fast drive down the street to see if the car would shift into all gears. Next time, I'll be prepared!

I usually don't post on this forum very often unless I have a car related issue, but I appreciate all the support I get when I do visit with a question.

Thanks!

So, are you meaning that you used zip ties instead of hose clamps? You might look for some that do fit, I would think the zips would stretch a bit (given the heat of the engine bay). Its probably nothing, but you could change the hose clamps out without having to take the filter back off.

Congrats on getting it done. I plan to change mine out around 50k, coming up soon.

So, are you meaning that you used zip ties instead of hose clamps?

I was finally able to get the hose clamps back on when I replaced the filter. It was a pain to say the least. What I meant was that I zip tied the filter to the bracket that held the original filter.

Hopefully when you take on yours, you can learn from my other post on do's and dont's.

I read the posts in this thread carefully to find the Honda OEM ATF Filter part number, but could not find it (other than the great pictures). Does anyone have an ATF Filter part number for the 2004 I4 5A so I can pre-order it from my dealership? Thank you!

My SA does not recommend ever changing the ATF Filter, only the fluid. I'm going against his suggestions here.

This will be my second ATF drain/fill (at 60K miles) on my 2004 I4 auto. My first one was at 30K or 36K. The car is driven very conservatively.

I am happy I read this post. I thought I was crazy, but no, looks like you do add fluid from the dipstick hole!!!!

I read the posts in this thread carefully to find the Honda OEM ATF Filter part number, but could not find it (other than the great pictures). Does anyone have an ATF Filter part number for the 2004 I4 5A so I can pre-order it from my dealership? Thank you!

Better late than never!
25430-PLR-003

Weird how you guys are saying 120K for the AT flush... my dealer recommended the first flush @ 60K, and a flush every 30K after that...:dunno:

Sounds good to me... but I may do the first one at around 40 - 45K instead... Just makes me feel better :D

I see you haven't raised the vehicle on lift or jackstand to perform tranny oil change, ca we do this procedure without jackstand?

Weird how you guys are saying 120K for the AT flush... my dealer recommended the first flush @ 60K, and a flush every 30K after that...:dunno:

Sounds good to me... but I may do the first one at around 40 - 45K instead... Just makes me feel better :D
Perhaps 60k is the severe schedule. Dealerships tend to push these more aggressive schedules, supposedly "due to the conditions in your area." It's really up to you. If you want to be certain, send it off for an analysis.

I see you haven't raised the vehicle on lift or jackstand to perform tranny oil change, ca we do this procedure without jackstand?

I got the same question. Can we actually do this without jackstand?

I suppose it also depends on how thin you are? lol

DONE!! Wow, it was NOT as hard as I thought it would be!

Check out the OLD fluid Vs. NEW fluid!
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b118/zen_master2/TrannyFluid.jpg

Tranny shifts like a butter now! Awesome!

One thing to note:
REMEMBER to remove the OLD bolt washer and replace it with a new one! Honda dealer will give it to you for free. BE CAUTIOUS, in my case, the washer got stuck on the tranny fluid drain hole. I was wondering why there was no washer on the drain bolt, LOL!

At the same time, I also replaced my spark plugs with new set of NGK Iridium (same model). Car definitely feels much better!

Odometer: 58600

At 58,000 that is too early for replacing the spark plugs...IMO

lol. it does not really matter for me. the first 58,000 miles were driven by other people, not me. Why should I keep using the old spark plugs? I would rather start driving with new one. LOL.

:)

THANKS for OP for posting the DIY! I saw it yesterday and immediately attempted the DIY the following day. Superb! I am going to do this every year during summer time. Instead of 3x Drain-Fill, it's going to be 3x Drain-Fill in 3 years.

Update:

Nice! Now my car's engine does not sound like a diesel engine when I started it in the morning! LOL.

ok, so I cant get my bolt off....
I tugged and I tugged and my bolt didnt budge.
So... any tips? Should I hit with a hammer or will that F my bolt up?

i don't think it's a good idea to hammer the bolt.

did you jack up the car? if you have an extra clearance, maybe you want to use a metal pipe to extend your wrench? By doing so, you can add additional torque.

I did mine without jacking up the car. Thus, I was laying down underneath the car when I unscrew the bolt. If I remember correctly, I was facing up and used TWO hands to hold the wrench. The wrench was at 90 degree angle, facing down. With both hands, I was able to apply enough torque to unscrew the 6-years old-never been opened drain bolt.

Illustration:
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b118/zen_master2/ATFBoltIlust.jpg

:) I am a little bit thicker than the illustration. LoL.

i don't think it's a good idea to hammer the bolt.

did you jack up the car? if you have an extra clearance, maybe you want to use a metal pipe to extend your wrench? By doing so, you can add additional torque.

I did mine without jacking up the car. Thus, I was laying down underneath the car when I unscrew the bolt. If I remember correctly, I was facing up and used TWO hands to hold the wrench. The wrench was at 90 degree angle, facing down. With both hands, I was able to apply enough torque to unscrew the 6-years old-never been opened drain bolt.

Illustration:
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b118/zen_master2/ATFBoltIlust.jpg

:) I am a little bit thicker than the illustration. LoL.


LOL nice depiction :-) good job dude.

They are definitely on tight out of the factory!

I think I used my feet to loosen the bolt the first time I changed out the ATF.

TIP: Remember to locate the OLD washer and replace it with a new one! There is a possibility where the OLD washer got stuck on the car instead coming out with the bolt.

My bolt was on so tight I couldn't get it off with my small wrench....gonna see if i have some pipe to try to add torque, but not much room under there. I think I may have stripped it a bit as well from a few slip offs b/c the wratchet doesn't exactly fit super snug in the hole, so probably should buy a new one to replace with when I finally do get the thing off

^Did you try what I did? Post #110

Question which way does drain bolt come off.toward the front of the car or to the rear direction.

Lefty lucie righty tightee

Well looks like its off to dealer tool broke trying t loosen that dam bolt!!!

To locate the "ATF FILTER" standing at the drivers side of the vehicle look inbetween the engine and the airbox as pictured below.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb276/gearboxracquetball/DSC02101.jpg

Thanks so much for the thread on changing the transmission fluid. The instructions and pictures were especially helpful. I do have a question about the inline filter. Could anyone tell me if the sixth generation Accords have these? I have a 99 I4 Accord. I've looked around under the hood and haven't been able to identify anything, but that doesn't mean I didn't overlook it. Any guidance would be great, and a picture would even be better. Thanks ahead of time!

Thank you for that write up!

Perhaps 60k is the severe schedule. Dealerships tend to push these more aggressive schedules, supposedly "due to the conditions in your area." It's really up to you. If you want to be certain, send it off for an analysis.

Yep...60k is severe service schedule. 120k is normal interval.

Here is what Honda says from the owners link website:

Normal
The "normal" schedule is fine for most drivers, even if they occasionally drive in severe conditions.

Severe
Follow the "severe" schedule only if you drive in one or more of these conditions most of the time:

Trips of less than 5 miles (less than 10 in freezing weather)
Extremely hot weather (over 90 degrees F)
Extensive idling or stop-and-go driving
Trailer towing, car-top carrier, or mountain driving
Muddy, dusty, or de-iced roads

do you need a put more atf fluid if you change the atf filter too?

Interesting side note: Of the 2 dealers near me one uses the mechanical flushing machine to flush ATF fluid which Honda specifically says not to do and the other charges $90 per drain/fill and they don't normally do it 3 times they just do it once. I found that rather odd and have resorted to doing it myself. I guess in the future I'll just do one drain and fill every 20K as others on this forum have suggested.

So anyway I'll be doing the (3 x drain/fill) ATF service this Sunday since it's at 68K and hasn't ever been done although the color of the fluid looks fine from the dipstick at least.

So here's my question: I wear a size 34 waist. Will I be able to get under the car and remove the ATF drain plug without putting the car on a ramp or jack stands? I have some steel plumbing pipe to extend my ratchet into a breaker bar in case it's too tight.

Also if someone has a service manual for the 2003 Accord 2.4L what should the ATF drain plug be torqued to? [EDIT] - Nevermind I see now that the original poster put the image in and it should be 36 lb/ft...

Thanks in advance for your help.

If your going to do this on a regular basis, I would suggest ramps. After all, you will pay for the ramps and fluid and STILL BE LESS than what the stealership charges:thumbsup:

Wouldn't putting it on a ramp result in even less than ~3 quarts of ATF to drain out since the drain plug is toward the front of the tranny and the torque converter would hide even more of the ATF. Not that I'm opposed to buying ramps...

Wouldn't putting it on a ramp result in even less than ~3 quarts of ATF to drain out since the drain plug is toward the front of the tranny and the torque converter would hide even more of the ATF. Not that I'm opposed to buying ramps...

you brought up a very good point that i was going to ask as well...:thmsup:

you should be able to do this without jacking or putting your car on a ramp.

unless......you're really big...

you should be able to do this without jacking or putting your car on a ramp.

unless......you're really big...

and/or your car is lowered....





like me and my car:paranoid:

what if you park the car on an incline where the front end is lower than the rear, will more that 3 quarts drain out?

Someone can correct me if I'm wrong but basically the ~7 qts of ATF is either in the transmission sump (~3 qts) or in the torque converter (~7-3 qts minus fluid channels and hoses). If the front of the car is higher than the rear of the car you risk not draining all the ATF in the sump however you would basically need to make the car stand on its nose to get any more than the 3qts into the sump from the torque converter so there is probably a negligible advantage to having the front of the car lower than the rear. I suppose it might drain the ~3qts a little faster than if the car was level...

Someone can correct me if I'm wrong but basically the ~7 qts of ATF is either in the transmission sump (~3 qts) or in the torque converter (~7-3 qts minus fluid channels and hoses). If the front of the car is higher than the rear of the car you risk not draining all the ATF in the sump however you would basically need to make the car stand on its nose to get any more than the 3qts into the sump from the torque converter so there is probably a negligible advantage to having the front of the car lower than the rear. I suppose it might drain the ~3qts a little faster than if the car was level...

so basically its just alot easier to do it the normal way with the car level?

:thmsup: Yup. Also the color of the ATF that I drained looked pretty good so I only did 2 drain/fill cycles. I spoke to a friend who runs his own garage and deals with a lot of hondas and he says he decides how many drain/fills to do based on the color and he says unless it's brown usually one or two is fine. He thinks it's more important to check more frequently and do a single drain/fill at shorter intervals. That's just his opinion but I trust it.

great... thanks

V6 ATF drain bolt is located on the "left side faces left"! You could access from the front. the unbolt direct is opposite to I4.

http://www.carspace.com/carzzz/Albums/carzzz%27s%20Album/V6.JPG/photo/v./photo.jpg

The bolt was so stubborn. I took the advantage of the wall to apply extra force!

^LOL. Awesome instruction.

Check out my illustration from previous post:
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b118/zen_master2/ATFBoltIlust.jpg

wow! you guys are shot, i just did my drain and fill yesterday, the car seems to be shifting smoother and at a lower rpm which makes the ride seem much less strenious..

accordn17
how many miles on your I4? first time Drain and refill? What was the fluid color?

i have 70,000, it was a darker redddish, light brown when i did it, the drain plug had some metal shavings on it when i took it out to, like some others here..

im a little worried though, cause when i drained it, i put 3 quarts back in and its at the top line on the dip stick.. maybe just slightly above the top line.. im worried that maybe not enough fluid drained out and i put to much back in, so i think im going to buy another few quarts this weekend and re do it, but add a little less fluid this time or just measure what i take out, which i should have done the first time... i will also order that oem filter soon to.. that will be when i do it a third time... im just paranoid right now that there could be a little to much in there...

accordn17
how many miles on your I4? first time Drain and refill? What was the fluid color?

if you havent done this yet.. you definitely should, its so easy to do and you will notice a difference in shifts right away, atleast i did.. if you have a impact ratchet to, it makes a world of a difference in getting that blot out.. once i wiped the bolt off and washer, i could have sworn it looked brand new.. nothing was marked or nicked at all.. the drain bolt was in perfect condition...

sorry about multiple post fellas...

anybody?

About the overfilling?? If you're above the high mark then It's hard to tell by how much. I just kept track of how much came out and only added that much back in by pouring what came out into quart containers. For peace of mind I would drain and fill it again and not add 3qts no questions but rather fill and check with dipstick. Remember that you need to run the car a little and have the tranny shift a few times to have the level settle properly.

If it just a little over probably no big deal but too much and you strain the system because it's designed to pump X amount of fluid.

Might not be what you want to hear but that's what I would do... :paranoid:

no its ok, thanks for the input, that was my original plan as i wrote earlier, to just do another d & f this weekend...

accordn17, check again when the tranny is at operating temperature! My observation from the tranny dipstick: When it is cold, the reading is at middle, but when it is warmed up, the fluid is at max.
i haven't done mine! It is barely over 15k (the fluid color is light pink with very minimal brown)... I hope the shift quality improve especially in low rpm after 1x drain and refill... tranny filter is on ordered... I will change both once i received the filter!

where is the best place to order that filter from? i want to order it today...... or where can i buy it at? i mean i know honda stealership might have it, but any autopart stores carry it? im going to do another drain and fill this weekend if the weather holds up.. i checked it again yesterday right after driving for awhile and the fluid level is just slightly above the top line on the dipstick..

cleankill:::: even after one drain and fill, you will notice a difference in the quality of shifting... it just feels alot better.. going up long steep hills, i feel a much better difference now..

did another drain and fill yesterday and the tranny feels to be even smoother... definitely do this process if you havent!!!

Just did it today with one of my buddy's and wow my fluid was dark. After 59,000 miles it sure needed this! The only thing is, I have no real markings on my dipstick (max,min,nothing). There are two holes towards the bottom end of the atf dipstick, but no markings that I really see. However, the shifts are so smooth just like new. The harsh shifts were probably my only complaint that I had with my car lately, and now that this is solved I'm so happy!:D

Planning to do the drain/fill within the next few days.. (as soon as I get the new drain bolt/crush washer & proper fluid)

Knowing that the ATF fluid has never been changed (at least since i've owned it).. I know.. SHAME ON ME... SHAME ON ME.. but I digress..

I'd like to do the 3x Drain/Fill... and this may sound like a stupid question.. but in doing the 3x drain fill.. it's just that... drain.. fill... drive until warm then repeat two more times?

OR

Is it drain/fill.... then drain fill again.. then drain fill again without having run the car anywhere?

Seems like you'd HAVE to run down the road and let it shift thru the gears for the ATF to run thu the tranny, tourqe converter and back into the sump area...

it's just that... drain.. fill... drive until warm then repeat two more times?

Yes...that one.

Planning to do the drain/fill within the next few days.. (as soon as I get the new drain bolt/crush washer & proper fluid)

Knowing that the ATF fluid has never been changed (at least since i've owned it).. I know.. SHAME ON ME... SHAME ON ME.. but I digress..

I'd like to do the 3x Drain/Fill... and this may sound like a stupid question.. but in doing the 3x drain fill.. it's just that... drain.. fill... drive until warm then repeat two more times?

OR

Is it drain/fill.... then drain fill again.. then drain fill again without having run the car anywhere?

Seems like you'd HAVE to run down the road and let it shift thru the gears for the ATF to run thu the tranny, tourqe converter and back into the sump area...

from what i've understood it in this forum, you need to drive around for at least two or 3 miles like you said in order to have the ATF fluid go through the tranny's gears, TQ converter, and back into the sump.

Or, just do a drain/fill the next 2 oil changes.

Thanks for the replies guys.. This bit of maintenance is on my to do list this week...

I just bought my car about a month ago and it's at 93k miles. I realized as soon as my 300 lb buddy spent 5 min trying to break to plug loose it had never been done before. Not to mention that the fluid that came out of the drain reminded me of tar. at least it wasn't brown. We had to do the drain/refill/drive process 4 times because the fluid was so nasty. The fluid cleared up a bit and it's much thinner but it's still dark...:boohoo:... bastards!

Luckily I haven't had any tranny issue in the almost 3k I've put on it and I've noticed smoother shifts. I'm kind of pissed though because I spent $100 to have 12 quarts shipped to my door and it didn't clear up my fluid. does anyone know where to get Genuine Honda ATF for cheap?

It's only around $6 each on http://www.handa-accessories.com but you end up paying around $40 in shipping.

Also, I hear that it's a bad idea to flush a tranny if you are having problems with it. I'm not having tranny problems, but since my baby has gone so long on the factory fluid I'm wondering it would hurt to just flush and refill rather than spending a fortune in drain/refills to make the fluid clean again. Opinions?

Also, I hear that it's a bad idea to flush a tranny if you are having problems with it. I'm not having tranny problems, but since my baby has gone so long on the factory fluid I'm wondering it would hurt to just flush and refill rather than spending a fortune in drain/refills to make the fluid clean again. Opinions?

Honda America strongly recommends you do not use flushing machines. When I was in Japan, they also did not force flush the transmission.

I don't know why? Honda Transmissions are different.

Also, some dealerships offer "flushing" service, but in reality this usually means the technicians are doing an multiple drain and re-fill procedure involving changing through the gears and idling the car some way. I don't know the exact procedure. They should not be using a flush-machine, being they are not endorced by Honda.

I'm no expert, but here is what I would do:
- drain and refill with Honda transmission fluid
- start her up, check fluid level and if any leaks. Go for a drive through the gears. Maybe at one point shift into reverse then back to neutral. Since you are not having any problems, all your forward gears should shift fine.
- park, check for leaks, drain and refill again; check level again and for any leaks.

Go for another, shorter drive. Drain and refill with new sealing washer. Maybe it will notice better shifting, which is always nice. :thmsup:

Again, I'm no expert. I'm not even that familure with how a Honda transmission works. I would like to know how the dealership officially does a drain-and-refill.

Just got my Transmission fluid drained and filled by my local mechanic when i was getting my rear brakes replaced.

he charged me $20 for labor and $20 for the ATF-Z1 fluid. i have 45k miles on my car so far and while shifting wasn't ever rough or anything, i can def. feel that the transmission is much smoother than before.