Best Oil Filter?

[Tom R]

Just passing 4,000 miles and planning on first oil change between 5-6,000 miles.

I have lurked on BITOG and now joined but have not yet had my membership "e-mail confirmed".

My question is?...what oil filters are preferred for the 2008 4 cyl vs the OEM? Also, I read about the Filtech version of the OEM...has that been replaced and generally not available? Is the '08 filter the same as '07 4 cyl?

Does anyone use Amzoil oil filter? BTW...I am planning on using M1 5W-20 and changing as MM suggests. I am guessing I will change at 7,500 if the MM says so or not (still hard to get past the every 3,000 mile habit!)

Another oil question...it got very cold here in MN this winter and a couple of -20F startups the engine did not sound happy for what seemed like a longer time than I am used to...even in very cold weather.

Do you think the M1 5W-20 will fix that?...or should I consider an annual "winter oil fill" of 0W-20? I did not like the sounds the engine made...maybe it was the dino speaking? Does the Honda filter have a good anti-drainback feature?

How about air filters...just use Honda?...or is there a better choice.

Thanks...Tom R

[RTexasF]

Amsoil's new oil filters are very good but expensive. There's nothing wrong with Purolator, Wix, or Motorcraft and they cost considerably less.

Why not use M1 0W20 year 'round? There's no reason to change from 5W to 0W.

Fram makes good air filters if the Honda label is outrageously priced at the dealer. Don't forget the cabin air filter.

[Tom R]

Hi Tex...I have to admit...much of this becomes "avocation (obsession)" versus need. I love reading the BITOG site...but I do believe that a 7,500 OCI with M1 and a good filter is pretty much all you need.

I do plan on doing a UOA at some time...maybe just before the second change...just to see how it looks.

Not sure if Honda "OKs" the 0W-20? Maybe makes sense to stick to the 5W-20 until warranty done?

Any particular issues with the 4 cyl Honda engine relative to the UOAs? It seems engines have a "reputation" based upon history of UOAs.

In normal city driving...how frequent change of cabin air filter?

BTW...it is warming up here in MN...hopefully any more below zero temps will be few and far between...maybe until next winter. Morning garage starts were not an issue...full day outside starts with highs below zero F...the engine made some nasty noise for about 10-30 seconds. Not used to that in my Toyota...but it does have the M1 (5W-30).

Thanks...Tom R

[RTexasF]

I have used M1 0W20 since the very first oil change (around 3500 miles) and was told that it was within warranty guidelines by a Master Tech. It's still a 20 weight but will flow quicker in sub zero temps. It is an API SM oil which is what Honda requires. The four banger 2.4l is about as bulletproof as one can get with no issues. I've said on BITOG that one could run Wesson Oil for 5K miles and not hurt it.

I recommend checking the cabin air filter annually.......mine was trashed @ 11,000 miles but in dusty Texas conditions. The dealer wanted $45 for the filter and I got three Micron Air (OEM) for that price at the parts store.

From Mobil's site:
In addition to providing benefits for hybrid engines, Mobil 1 0W-20 is ideal for use in newer cars, trucks and SUVs manufactured by Honda, Toyota, Ford, Mercury and Chrysler, where a 5W-20 motor oil is recommended. Mobil 1 0W-20 not only meets the requirements of manufacturers recommending 5W-20, but it also provides superior low-temperature protection and the exceptional performance of a fully synthetic motor oil.

[turBeau]

I'm putting a M1-104 (S2000) oil filter on mine on the next oil change. Its quite a bit larger than the M1-110 that normally goes on.

[Tom R]

I'm putting a M1-104 (S2000) oil filter on mine on the next oil change. Its quite a bit larger than the M1-110 that normally goes on.

Same fit on the '08 4 cyls?

Also, any difference in flow or pressure that would "harm" the lubrication flow...???

Have other used/tested this filter? Any results?

Thanks...Tom R

[Tom R]

Hamp Filters? DId some research and they appear to be an upgrade from the current OEM Honda filters?

There appears to be two sizes of HAMP...one a bit taller.

Which HAMP if for the '08 4 cyl? Also, do nearly all Accords use the same oil filters? V6 same as 4 cyl...'08 that is?

Would HAMP be comparable to Amzoil filters...any other generally premium to the HAMP?

Any of you use the HAMP on an '08?

Thanks...Tom R

[odessit]

I am with RTexasF (first reply to your question)

[russiankid]

I remember reading an article that shows a comparison on different oil filters. Fram and Honda filters were proven to be almost identical, and unfortunately Fram filters are worthless. I would stick with Mobile 1, Purolator, and STP filters. I use Purolator on my Accord(151k), no problems what so ever.

My mom has an 07 RDX, and it seems to be fine with 5w20 M1 oil. I would run 5w20 in during the summer and 0w20 in the winter if the engine still makes noises.

[VTECaddict]

fram filters are not the best, but certainly not worthless. my dad has ran fram filters since before i was born with no ill effects on any of our cars.

since i have taken over oil change duty on the family's cars, ive used walmart's supertech and now have a case of purolator pureone only because they offered a better filter for less money than a fram. i certainly wouldnt hesitate or otherwise feel uneasy using a fram or fram-made honda filter. but of course for their price you can get a much better filter so i'm going to go for the best "bang for the buck" instead.

[Tom R]

it seems to be fine with 5w20 M1 oil. I would run 5w20 in during the summer and 0w20 in the winter if the engine still makes noises.

My plan exactly...probably not "necessary"...but s/b OK and may actually be a bit better...Thanks...Tom R

[russiankid]

fram filters are not the best, but certainly not worthless. my dad has ran fram filters since before i was born with no ill effects on any of our cars.

since i have taken over oil change duty on the family's cars, ive used walmart's supertech and now have a case of purolator pureone only because they offered a better filter for less money than a fram. i certainly wouldnt hesitate or otherwise feel uneasy using a fram or fram-made honda filter. but of course for their price you can get a much better filter so i'm going to go for the best "bang for the buck" instead.

Fram used to have decent filters. Now they suck pretty bad.

[russiankid]

My plan exactly...probably not "necessary"...but s/b OK and may actually be a bit better...Thanks...Tom R

Just take care of your Honda and it will last a long time. Trust me, i know:wave:

[odessit]

Fram used to have decent filters. Now they suck pretty bad.
There is really nothing wrong with Fram Oil filters aside from cardboard & glue endcaps. Under normal driving conditions they will not exhibit any problems (based on the millions of units that they sell each year). There are however better & cheaper alternatives, but in a pinch - Fram will do.

[Marc04LX]

The Purolater PureOne and the WIX both have the non-hardening silicone anti-drainback valve, important for horizontal applications (especially w/long OCIs). I get the WIX for just over $6 each at O'Reilly's.

[RTexasF]

My plan exactly...probably not "necessary"...but s/b OK and may actually be a bit better...Thanks...Tom R


Tom R,

Once you get on BITOG research this and see how foolish it is to change from 5W20 to 0W20 for winter. As I have said 0W20 will serve you well all year long.

[WisAccord]

Purolater PureOne and M1 5w-20 using a 10k OCI (per the maintenance minder). :thmsup:

[Wildhogster]

There have been a lot of good comments but I'll add my 2 cents. Amsoil filters are made by Hastings and are very good. Honda specs their filters and bids them. Fram is ususally the winner and they just mfg them w/ Honda on the can. I prefer Mobil One, especially if using M1 synthetic oil. I use the extended change 15K M1 and have had no trouble with M1 filters at this change interval. I have taken them apart and the filtering media still looks strong. Take a Fram apart after 15K and there's nothing left of the media so I would not use them for extended change intervals. I use 5W-20 in both my Accord and TL. It has the film strength of a 20W and flows like a 5W. Also is a complete molecule so there's no oxygen binding which causes natural oil to thinken over time.

[odessit]

I've heard that Amsoil filters are now made by WIX using Donaldson (is it owned by Hastings?) media

I took apart Honda filter (Filtech one) and stumbled at this filter (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=BAR&MfrPartNumber=0410812&PartType=1&PTSet=A) that looks EXACTLY like the Honda Filtech filter. It even has the same <> stamp on the can, color and painted instructions. Not that I would use it, when Amsoil/Mobil is only few bucks more, but for people who what to stay with these illusive OEM Honda filters, it may be an alternative...

http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/bar/0410812-1.jpg

If somebody REALLY wants to see my old Honda Filtech made filter cut open, I still have bits in my recycle bin
I use 5W-20 in both my Accord and TL. It has the film strength of a 20W and flows like a 5W. Also is a complete molecule so there's no oxygen binding which causes natural oil to thinken over time.
Can you elaborate more on this? Maybe provide some links for further reading?

[Spektyr]

I have lurked on BITOG and now joined but have not yet had my membership "e-mail confirmed".

I'll second this - I applied several days ago and still haven't gotten anything from the site to allow me to log in.

In fact, I'm starting to wonder why everyone thinks that site is so great. Sure, there's a whole lot of talking about oil and such there, but I can't seem to find any hint of a compilation of information. Almost everything there is posts about one thing - I'd be infinitely more interested in information about many things: posts that compare/contrast a dozen different oils, filters, etc. You know, the kind of thing you'd find stickied at the top of an area here.


Unless I'm missing something you pretty much have to read the entire forum to learn anything useful.

[odessit]

Regarding confirmation email - no idea, try again?


Unless I'm missing something you pretty much have to read the entire forum to learn anything useful.
This is what I found as well, but there are reasons for it.
1. To intelligently compare something in 1 post you need to have repeatable environment (same car, driving style, gasoline, temperature, mood...). It's very hard to do or takes long time just to come close. Some people are doing it with UOA.
2. It may take $ to compare different products (like filters), something not too many people are willing to do just to satisfy curiosity of the masses. If products are "close enough" - why bother?

There is a great filter study, but they are exception to the rule.
http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/oilfilters/index.html

[Sunnfunn]

How would using a "heavier" oil like 10w30 or 10w40 affect the engine? (I live in the DC area)

[RTexasF]

On BITOG you really must search way back in the archives and the search engine is none too good. When I joined there were only 400+ members and now it is in the 10,000 range I believe. I agree that much of it is just crap like " My engine seems to like XYZ oil". My, how scientific :thumbsdow. If you take the time to figure out who the regulars are and learn to read the UOA's you can pick up quite a bit of knowledge.

Just like any forum figure out which areas are important to you and go for it.

[odessit]

How would using a "heavier" oil like 10w30 or 10w40 affect the engine? (I live in the DC area)
Your car will nor die, but your fuel mileage will be slightly worse. Probably more wear too, but it needs to be tracked with UOA, especially for 10W-40.
Just use 5W-20 (or 0W-20) year around. The car is specked for it, and does not need heavier oil.