Slap me as I know this has been beat to death...however...
I have an I-4 '03 Accord with 62K on it. I have a new job that is going to require more in town stop and go. Plus its REALLY HOT in AZ for many months to come. I know I would not want to be under the hood trying to move 3000 lbs.
2 questions:
Do I have too many miles on the car to switch from dino oil to synthetic at 62K?
If I do make the transition would it be better to use a blend instead of straight synthetic?

Thanks..

No problem. make your first run of syn 5K. Then let your conscience be your guide. Honda engines like just about any oil. I am about to switch at 45K. Got to love the free after rebate deals that pop up every now and then.

You should be fine. Give it the old switch and see what happens.

No problem. make your first run of syn 5K. Honda engines like just about any oil.

Abbreviated but I agree, change now with no worries. 5K first change then longer is very possible with a used oil analysis ($20 or so).
Change to synth with no worries. Were I you I would seek out Penzoil Platinum as opposed to M1....and I use M1.

I've been thinking about going to synthetic, too.
But, I have a 2001, 128K miles, Is this Safe ...

I've been thinking about going to synthetic, too.
But, I have a 2001, 128K miles, Is this Safe ...

I have read switching to synthetic oil on an older engine can possibly cause leaks. But, make sure you do your research before you do any damage to your car.

It happened to me on my old 1996 Subaru Legacy. I used Mobil 1 5000mi oil which is semi-synthetic wo/ and problems. Then I tried using Mobil 1 7500mi oil which is fully synthetic and it gave me enough problems to now have a '05 AV6 EX-L. So if it weren't for that, I would have an Accord.

Some food for thought.

Ok, Based upon what is talking here, let me giv eyou my specs. I have an Honda Accord 1999 LX 2.3, 4 cyl. I use AC Delco semi synth. My car has exactly 51.107 miles. Questions: Can I switch to full synthetic oil to my car? What will be the procedure to change from semi to full synth? Any brand you can highly recommend?
In advanced, thank you very much for your answers and comments. Thank you
Mendione

You should be able to just switch no problem. I switched to M1, and am very happy. I used to change my oil every 3k, now I only do it every 6 or when the MM reads 5%. Nice to not have to service as often, and the car feels smoother between 4 and 6k rpms.

I have read switching to synthetic oil on an older engine can possibly cause leaks. But, make sure you do your research before you do any damage to your car.

It happened to me on my old 1996 Subaru Legacy. I used Mobil 1 5000mi oil which is semi-synthetic wo/ and problems. Then I tried using Mobil 1 7500mi oil which is fully synthetic and it gave me enough problems to now have a '05 AV6 EX-L. So if it weren't for that, I would have an Accord.

Some food for thought.

NOT correct. Mobil 5000 is a conventional oil, it is not Mobil1, just Mobil. Mobil 7500 is a synth blend, again just Mobil. Only Mobil 1 is a full synthetic.

Mobil Clean 5000
Want a conventional oil that protects for today's longer oil change intervals? No problem. With Mobil Clean 5000, you’ll get 16 percent more cleaning agents than our conventional oil, Mobil Clean (available in installed facilities only). Extra cleaning power that helps your engine run cleaner than with other conventional oils — even with today’s longer oil change intervals. In fact, Mobil Clean 5000 is guaranteed to provide excellent performance and protection for all car engines for up to 5,000 miles of normal consumer driving.

Mobil Clean 7500
Mobil Clean 7500, a synthetic blend motor oil, provides outstanding protection for today’s longer service intervals — with 18 percent more cleaning agents than even Mobil Clean 5000 to protect critical engine parts for up to 7,500 miles under typical driving conditions.

And here I'll put my obligatory plug in for Motorcraft Syn Blend 5W20 - outstanding oil for short money - $10.32 for 5 quart jug at Wal-Mart. I run it exclusively in my fords and hondas and it holds up real well even after 5k miles. I used to run synthetic in my cars, but after finding the syn blends seemed to behave the same during a 5k oil change interval, I left money in my pocket. The Motorcraft has gotten very high ratings by various oil review folks, and those who have run blackstone analysis on some of the ford forums find that it holds up almost the same as a full syn.

andy

NOT correct. Mobil 5000 is a conventional oil, it is not Mobil1, just Mobil. Mobil 7500 is a synth blend, again just Mobil. Only Mobil 1 is a full synthetic.

Mobil Clean 5000
Want a conventional oil that protects for today's longer oil change intervals? No problem. With Mobil Clean 5000, you’ll get 16 percent more cleaning agents than our conventional oil, Mobil Clean (available in installed facilities only). Extra cleaning power that helps your engine run cleaner than with other conventional oils — even with today’s longer oil change intervals. In fact, Mobil Clean 5000 is guaranteed to provide excellent performance and protection for all car engines for up to 5,000 miles of normal consumer driving.

Mobil Clean 7500
Mobil Clean 7500, a synthetic blend motor oil, provides outstanding protection for today’s longer service intervals — with 18 percent more cleaning agents than even Mobil Clean 5000 to protect critical engine parts for up to 7,500 miles under typical driving conditions.



I'm not lying man. If I was home I would post pictures of it. The 5000mi is semi-syn and the 7500mi is full. I am pretty sure I know what I have in my garage and I definently know what I put in my car.

I'm not lying man. If I was home I would post pictures of it. The 5000mi is semi-syn and the 7500mi is full. I am pretty sure I know what I have in my garage and I definently know what I put in my car.

I have a bottle of 7500 in my garage, and just looked - it's synthetic blend. Their entry-point full synthetic is M1.

andy

I have a bottle of 7500 in my garage, and just looked - it's synthetic blend. Their entry-point full synthetic is M1.

andy

Really, I could have sworn that it was semi. Alright, never mind.

I'm not lying man. If I was home I would post pictures of it. The 5000mi is semi-syn and the 7500mi is full. I am pretty sure I know what I have in my garage and I definently know what I put in my car.

I'm not saying you are lying but you are damn sure misinformed! Those quotes I posted above are from Mobil's WEBSITE. Did you think I made those up???? Look it up dude, I did!! Do you want me to put the link from Mobil's site here? Apparently you don't know what you put in your car.

Really, I could have sworn that it was semi. Alright, never mind.

If you read this ^ there would have been no reason to post this:

I'm not saying you are lying but you are damn sure misinformed! Those quotes I posted above are from Mobil's WEBSITE. Did you think I made those up???? Look it up dude, I did!! Do you want me to put the link from Mobil's site here? Apparently you don't know what you put in your car.

You were the one that said "The 5000mi is semi-syn and the 7500mi is full. I am pretty sure I know what I have in my garage and I definently know what I put in my car." Pretty brash statement, no? Spoken as if the rest of us are morons....

I stand by what I said at that time but you are correct and now it doesn't matter. We all know now what type oils those mentioned are and more importantly you know what you are putting in your engine.

You were the one that said "The 5000mi is semi-syn and the 7500mi is full. I am pretty sure I know what I have in my garage and I definently know what I put in my car." Pretty brash statement, no? Spoken as if the rest of us are morons....

I stand by what I said at that time but you are correct and now it doesn't matter. We all know now what type oils those mentioned are and more importantly you know what you are putting in your engine.

Do you have a chip on your shoulder, why are you so defensive all the time? Relax take a deep breath and try and enjoy life. :banana:

Just defending what I said and why.

I have read switching to synthetic oil on an older engine can possibly cause leaks. But, make sure you do your research before you do any damage to your car.

It happened to me on my old 1996 Subaru Legacy. I used Mobil 1 5000mi oil which is semi-synthetic wo/ and problems. Then I tried using Mobil 1 7500mi oil which is fully synthetic and it gave me enough problems to now have a '05 AV6 EX-L. So if it weren't for that, I would have an Accord.

Some food for thought.

You can switch to synthetic oil at any time, and if you do have leaking after you switch, it's because you have bad seals... not just because you switched to synthetic.

I have not heard of anyone getting engine damage when switching to synthetic... what exactly went wrong?

Here's some info I found on the internet (FWIW) about synthetics:

http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/synthoil.htm
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Myths.aspx
http://bestsyntheticoil.com/dealers/amsoil/seals.shtml

You can switch to synthetic oil at any time, and if you do have leaking after you switch, it's because you have bad seals... not just because you switched to synthetic.

I have not heard of anyone getting engine damage when switching to synthetic... what exactly went wrong?

Here's some info I found on the internet (FWIW) about synthetics:

http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/synthoil.htm
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Myths.aspx
http://bestsyntheticoil.com/dealers/amsoil/seals.shtml

That is true, I did have a verrrrry slow oil leak. But, from what I have read older cars' oil seals have a lot of wear on them and they might not be up to the challenge of a more slippery oil. That is most likely why I lost almost all the oil in my car after a short period of time. It also caused such bad vibrations in my motor that it caused one of the drive belts to come halfway off my crankshaft pulley. After that happened it also slightly bent the crankshaft pulley up. So semi synthetic really messed my car up. Crazyness!!!

That is true, I did have a verrrrry slow oil leak. But, from what I have read older cars' oil seals have a lot of wear on them and they might not be up to the challenge of a more slippery oil. That is most likely why I lost almost all the oil in my car after a short period of time. It also caused such bad vibrations in my motor that it caused one of the drive belts to come halfway off my crankshaft pulley. After that happened it also slightly bent the crankshaft pulley up. So semi synthetic really messed my car up. Crazyness!!!

So...you are actually stating that semi-synth oil caused your bent crankshaft pulley? :scratch:

That is true, I did have a verrrrry slow oil leak. But, from what I have read older cars' oil seals have a lot of wear on them and they might not be up to the challenge of a more slippery oil. That is most likely why I lost almost all the oil in my car after a short period of time. It also caused such bad vibrations in my motor that it caused one of the drive belts to come halfway off my crankshaft pulley. After that happened it also slightly bent the crankshaft pulley up. So semi synthetic really messed my car up. Crazyness!!!

Like I said (and the links as well), the leaking isn't really caused by the synthetic oil, but rather because of the old/bad seals.

Why would the oil cause bad vibrations in the motor?

That is true, I did have a verrrrry slow oil leak. But, from what I have read older cars' oil seals have a lot of wear on them and they might not be up to the challenge of a more slippery oil. That is most likely why I lost almost all the oil in my car after a short period of time. It also caused such bad vibrations in my motor that it caused one of the drive belts to come halfway off my crankshaft pulley. After that happened it also slightly bent the crankshaft pulley up. So semi synthetic really messed my car up. Crazyness!!!

Any oil, heck...even 4 quarts of WD40 in your engine wont do this sort of damage. Your problems were/are elsewhere. The fact you lost oil so quickly is yet another problem! Yet somehow its concluded semi-syn oil was the cause? :screwy:

Any oil, heck...even 4 quarts of WD40 in your engine wont do this sort of damage. Your problems were/are elsewhere. The fact you lost oil so quickly is yet another problem! Yet somehow its concluded semi-syn oil was the cause? :screwy:

Well after I recently put that oil in my car is when I experienced this problem. That is why I blamed it on the oil. But this happened months ago and I already have another car.

Well after I recently put that oil in my car is when I experienced this problem. That is why I blamed it on the oil. But this happened months ago and I already have another car.

That's just a coincidence. I don't think there's any possible way changing to synthetic oil caused that.

If you would've put new tires on the car at the same time, would you have blamed the tires for those problems?

On a older cars, (all I've ever owned, till this 2001) it's not just that the seals are weaker (their old), and may be already slightly leaking, its the that old oil, that has sillitifyed (clogging the current leak) will be cleaned by the synthetic oil, and it is slipperier, and will then leak....
I used synthetic in my Arrow, it did not leak before, after synthetic did...
This is why I'm worried about making the change in my 2001. I have 130K miles on the clock. I'm undecided...

On a older cars, (all I've ever owned, till this 2001) it's not just that the seals are weaker (their old), and may be already slightly leaking, its the that old oil, that has sillitifyed (clogging the current leak) will be cleaned by the synthetic oil, and it is slipperier, and will then leak....
I used synthetic in my Arrow, it did not leak before, after synthetic did...
This is why I'm worried about making the change in my 2001. I have 130K miles on the clock. I'm undecided...

If you're that concerned about it, why switch to synthetic?

With 130k on the vehicle and your concern about "weak seals", I'd just run dino in the thing and drive it 'till it dies.

I switched to MC syn-blend 5w20 at 150k with no problems. I had it since new so I know it had regular oc's. If you don't know the maint. history of the car(higher miles) I would stay with the dino.

The reason I'm consittering changing to synthetic oil, is that I drive at least 600 miles a week. That means changing my oil about once a month - Too much (I actually go to at least 5K miles, on conventional oil, w/ a new filter each time).
With synthetic, I'd feel safer doing to 7K miles on part synthetic oil, and Maybe 8-10K on Full synthetic oil.
Bottom line, Cost about twice as much, but I can change my oil 1/3 less often. Less work for me, better for my car; Better fuel economy; Better for the environment; And, less engine ware...

I've run Mobile 1 Extended Performance syn in my Blazer for the past 70K or 80K miles. Before that I ran regular Mobil 1 syn from the day I bought it (with 32K on the OD.) I started with 5,000 mile intervals (the GM recommendation on dino oil) and slowly crept up to almost 10,000 mile intervals starting after the power-train warranty died out.

Its got to the point that I was changing the oil every 13,000 to 15,000 miles (basically once a year.) The last change in Nov of 07 was at 18K and some change (no filter changes.) That oil came out fine and tested good, with the standard recommendation of changing the filter and running another 3000 to 5000 miles. That was on a vehicle with over 164,000 miles on it at that time.

Original Poster: At this time I wouldn't recommend anything over 10,000 to 12,000 miles with a Honda engine. The few I have experience with seem to suffer from fuel dilution issues and those are at lower intervals. I would probably suggest switching to Mobile 1 regular synthetic with a good filter (Mobile 1 EP, K&N, Purolator, Wixx, Mann.) I prefer the Mobile 1 filter, but any of those listed are a good choice and in order of my preference. In fact from what I can tell the Mobile 1 and K&N are made by the same people (Champion Labs.) Stay away from any FRAM product. [[see attached image]]

Start with smaller intervals (say 7500 miles) and have the oil tested. Slowly work your way up, but personally on a Honda I'd stay at 10,000 as a maximum.


http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/oilfilters/reference.html

Could you explain the reason behind staying away from Fram filters? I don't see why based on the chart given.

There are simply better filters for the same or less money.

The reason I'm consittering changing to synthetic oil, is that I drive at least 600 miles a week. That means changing my oil about once a month - Too much (I actually go to at least 5K miles, on conventional oil, w/ a new filter each time).
With synthetic, I'd feel safer doing to 7K miles on part synthetic oil, and Maybe 8-10K on Full synthetic oil.
Bottom line, Cost about twice as much, but I can change my oil 1/3 less often. Less work for me, better for my car; Better fuel economy; Better for the environment; And, less engine ware...

I agree with the latter part of your post, but if you're doing 600 miles a week, you should be able to go 2 months between oil changes. You should easily be able to go 6k miles on conventional oil especially if you're doing mostly highway driving.

I would probably suggest switching to Mobile 1 regular synthetic with a good filter (Mobile 1 EP, K&N, Purolator, Wixx, Mann.) I prefer the Mobile 1 filter, but any of those listed are a good choice and in order of my preference. In fact from what I can tell the Mobile 1 and K&N are made by the same people (Champion Labs.) Stay away from any FRAM product. [[see attached image]]


FYI... Champion Labs also makes SuperTech (Walmart's brand).

Could you explain the reason behind staying away from Fram filters? I don't see why based on the chart given.

For those people who don't like Frams, they use pictures of the filters cut open to show how they are "inferior". Granted, most of these people don't have any experience designing an oil filter and are basing their opinion on what the filter contents look like instead of how they perform.

I believe Fram (and brands made by the same manufacturer... including some OEM Honda filters) have been the top selling oil filters for the past 10-20 years, so if they were that bad, I think we'd see more issues.

Granted, I'm in agreement with RTexasF... there are other brands out there that will perform as well as or better than Frams and cost less. SuperTech and Purolator Premium Plus (which includes Advance Auto and Quaker State) are two such brands.

http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/oilfilters/reference.html

BTW, that chart is not completely up-to-date. Quaker State filters are made by Purolator (confirmed by contacting Quaker State a few years ago).

Here's what I emailed them...

"I noticed that your oil filters have recently changed color (from green to white). Does this mean that you have changed oil filter manufacturers? Who currently manufactures your oil filters?"

Here was their response...

"The color change is a simple cost saving measure. Quaker State Filters are manufactured for us by Purolator. Thank you for your interest in our products."

FYI... Champion Labs also makes SuperTech (Walmart's brand).

So would you say that M1 EP and SuperTech are comparable? Or is it worth the extra $$$ to get the M1?

So would you say that M1 EP and SuperTech are comparable? Or is it worth the extra $$$ to get the M1?

I would say that they are comparable from the standpoint that you will not notice any difference using either one.

According to the website with filter comparisons, the M1 filters use the older design that SuperTech filters used to have, which may be how they are justifying the price difference.

I would say that it is not worth the extra money to get an M1 filter. There are probably people who will disagree with me, so ultimately, I say go with whatever you feel more comfortable using.

Could you explain the reason behind staying away from Fram filters? I don't see why based on the chart given.
I've cut a few Frams open, as well as a mobile 1 and a Superflow (which is a Purolator filter, just sold in bulk to shops for their use.) The Fram material was junk and tore easily, the caps on the end are a paper like material or plastic, and the inside is plastic. The fact that they cost as much or more at times than a Purolator means they not worth using. The materials used in the Superflow and Mobile 1 filters were made of good material, that didn't tear, and used metals parts on the ends and inside. In other words, they were well built. The casings were also a total pain in the you know what to separate from the filter. In contrast, the Frams were easy to separate and cut. The material was very thin. That's the first reason I won't buy their junk

The other reason I refuse to buy anything by Fram is a person I know well and trust works for a company tied to Honeywell. He personally witnessed them hire temps to sit and remove Fram filters from their boxes, scrub them with WD40 and steel wool, then repackage them in new boxes. These were filters damaged by water. The rust was on the back plate where the filter inlet is, meaning water most likely also made it into the filter itself.


FYI... Champion Labs also makes SuperTech (Walmart's brand).
Just because Champion Labs makes it, doesn't mean its the same. The M1 and K&N filters they make are with their "old process" which is a high quality product. The new process, called "Ecore", uses a felt like material glued on the filter as endcaps. In other words, its junk. That's the process most all the others they make use, and I'm pretty sure the Walmart ones do this based on price. It costs too much to manufacture the "old process" ones.

Just because Champion Labs makes it, doesn't mean its the same. The M1 and K&N filters they make are with their "old process" which is a high quality product. The new process, called "Ecore", uses a felt like material glued on the filter as endcaps. In other words, its junk. That's the process most all the others they make use, and I'm pretty sure the Walmart ones do this based on price. It costs too much to manufacture the "old process" ones.

I never said that they were the same.

You must be really experienced with engineering oil filters to be able to determine the quality of a filter strictly by sight rather than performance. :notworthy

There are people on BITOG that have used SuperTech filters and had UOAs with very good results. There are those that still don't like the filter design, but none have actually had any issues with them.

In any case, can you tell me the last time you or someone you knew had an issue with their car related to the oil filter? I know I can't. My point is that the oil filter is probably one area where you really don't have to worry about what brand you use.

You must be really experienced with engineering oil filters to be able to determine the quality of a filter strictly by sight rather than performance. :notworthy

...

My point is that the oil filter is probably one area where you really don't have to worry about what brand you use.

Why are you assuming the experience I have with them is by sight alone? As I said, I've cut a few open for kicks. Having seen that site a while ago, it seemed like something to do. No better way to know for sure than to do it yourself.

The Frams were much lesser quality than the Purolators. If you take into account the fact they use plastic in the Fram filters (plastic and heat are not friendly to each other), the materials ability to rip easily, and the quality of construction; then one can be logically figure out the Purolator is a better option. Especially since they're usually the same price or within the same range, depending on where you get them. If I'm going to spend $4 on a filter, then it'll be the Purolator every time.

By your standards, one must assume then there's no difference between a Yugo and a BMW, cheap off-brand china-made cast pot-metal tools and forged Craftsman/Snap-On/MAC tools, a round steak and a sirloin steak, or SPAM and a "real" ham.

Why are you assuming the experience I have with them is by sight alone? As I said, I've cut a few open for kicks. Having seen that site a while ago, it seemed like something to do. No better way to know for sure than to do it yourself.


Because you have yet to give any rationale behind why certain filters are "junk" beyond simply cutting them open and judging by what you see. Have you done any UOAs with both filters? Have you had an engine failure because of the filter you were using?

The Frams were much lesser quality than the Purolators. If you take into account the fact they use plastic in the Fram filters (plastic and heat are not friendly to each other), the materials ability to rip easily, and the quality of construction; then one can be logically figure out the Purolator is a better option. Especially since they're usually the same price or within the same range, depending on where you get them. If I'm going to spend $4 on a filter, then it'll be the Purolator every time.


No argument from me there. I've already stated that I use other brand filters that are less expensive than Fram.


By your standards, one must assume then there's no difference between a Yugo and a BMW, cheap off-brand china-made cast pot-metal tools and forged Craftsman/Snap-On/MAC tools, a round steak and a sirloin steak, or SPAM and a "real" ham.

Very poor analogies. You can compare the Yugo and BMW by looking at performance numbers, reliability ratings and riding in them. Tools can be compared by using them and seeing how durable they are. Food (steak or ham) can be compared by eating them.

On the other hand, so far your argument against Fram or SuperTech (w/ Ecore) is merely by what you see when you cut them open. You may have done some UOAs or have had problems using these oil filters, but you have yet to post this.

By your standards, you must be able to look at two t-bone steaks and tell which one is better tasting. :dunno:

By your standards, you must be able to look at two t-bone steaks and tell which one is better tasting. :dunno:

Can I have both pieces? I'm hungary now, it's time for dinner! :D

...so far your argument against Fram or SuperTech (w/ Ecore) is merely by what you see when you cut them open. You may have done some UOAs or have had problems using these oil filters, but you have yet to post this...
The most I can say is you need to cut a few open yourself and then you'll get the idea. The analogies may not have been the best, but I have better things to do than argue about those. The key key in them was "quality of material"--something that was totally missed by you.

The most I can say is you need to cut a few open yourself and then you'll get the idea. The analogies may not have been the best, but I have better things to do than argue about those. The key key in them was "quality of material"--something that was totally missed by you.

I know what your opinion is. My point is that unless you know what you're looking at/for, how do you know what material is "quality" and what is "crap"? You're basing your opinion on pre-conceived notions that you have no support for.

Thousands and thousands of people have used Fram and eCore SuperTech oil filters without any issues. Members of BITOG have done used oil analysis (UOAs) using both filters and had good results.

Anyway, it boils down to use whatever you feel comfortable using. Personally, I go with Purolator Premium Plus or versions of it (e.g. Advance Auto or Quaker State) because I can get them cheaper than Frams and when on sale cheaper than SuperTech. However, I won't go so far as to say that either filter is "crap"... just that there are less expensive ones that will do as good of a job or better.

Thousands and thousands of people have used Fram and eCore SuperTech oil filters without any issues. Members of BITOG have done used oil analysis (UOAs) using both filters and had good results.


I think BITOG members share some of the same opinions about FRAM filters as do members of this site.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=30&Number=1185362&Searchpage=1&Main=90453&Words=fram%2Bfilters&topic=0&Search=true#Post1185362

I think BITOG members share some of the same opinions about FRAM filters as do members of this site.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=30&Number=1185362&Searchpage=1&Main=90453&Words=fram%2Bfilters&topic=0&Search=true#Post1185362

Only one thread with six posts doesn't necessarily reflect the opinion of all BITOG members.

Did I say all of the members share this opinion? No, I said some do. You however infer, and use BITOG as a reference to support your claim about FRAM filters.

Why don't you search BITOG and get a feel for what the consensus is regarding FRAM filters. I think you'd find that the majority would prefer to use something different.

As for your "back door" logic stating that millions are sold so they must be fine, etc., well there's a sucker born every minute.

These filters are mediocre at best.

Only one thread with six posts doesn't necessarily reflect the opinion of all BITOG members.


Here's another one.

=http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1178247&fpart=1

Only one thread with six posts doesn't necessarily reflect the opinion of all BITOG members.

...and another one.

=http://http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1178131#Post1178131

There's more, but I think I've made my point.

:lmao:

There are literally hundreds of negative posts on BITOG concerning Fram oil filters and almost as many praising the air filters!

Ironic that they do one so well and the other in such a mediocre fashion.

...and another one.

=http://http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1178131#Post1178131

There's more, but I think I've made my point.

:lmao:

If your point was to show that there are people out there just like you who have formed a negative opinion on Fram oil filters based on the appearance of the internals versus proven results, then yes, you have made your point.

Not sure where you got the notion that I stated that the overall belief at BITOG on Fram oil filters was positive. What I did say was that there are UOAs from BITOG members using Fram filters and all have had good results.

As I stated previously, nothing wrong with using Fram oil filters. Most opinions are based on the appearance of the internals... and I have yet to see a UOA that shows that they are causing any harm to the engine. I have also stated that there are less expensive oil filters available... so I don't use Fram oil filters on our Pilot or Accord.

BTW, anyone getting their oil changed at the dealer is having a Fram filter installed... OEM Honda filters are made by the same manufacturer. People have cut them both open and found that they are identical except for the paint color.

If your point was to show that there are people out there just like you who have formed a negative opinion on Fram oil filters based on the appearance of the internals versus proven results, then yes, you have made your point.
My opinion of Fram filters is based upon both appearance and results; not one or the other exclusively. There is absolutely nothing wrong with that approach. Besides, FRAM has had quality issues in the past.

Not sure where you got the notion that I stated that the overall belief at BITOG on Fram oil filters was positive. What I did say was that there are UOAs from BITOG members using Fram filters and all have had good results.

Umm...no, that's not what you said; you stated "...all have had very good results". When I read your statement I thought it to be misleading, so I called you on it.

I think RTexasF was right when he said that FRAM air filters for some reason aren't subject to the same criticism that their oil filters are.

My opinion of Fram filters is based upon both appearance and results; not one or the other exclusively. There is absolutely nothing wrong with that approach. Besides, FRAM has had quality issues in the past.

Umm...no, that's not what you said; you stated "...all have had very good results". When I read your statement I thought it to be misleading, so I called you on it.

I think RTexasF was right when he said that FRAM air filters for some reason aren't subject to the same criticism that their oil filters are.

What results are you referring to? If you've had issues with using Fram oil filters (UOAs, engine failures, etc.), I'd like to hear about them, because I have yet to hear of anyone having any issues related to using a Fram oil filter.

Where did I state that? I looked back at all my posts and have yet to find that exact quote. Unless you're referring to the following posts:

"There are people on BITOG that have used SuperTech filters and had UOAs with very good results. There are those that still don't like the filter design, but none have actually had any issues with them."

"Members of BITOG have done used oil analysis (UOAs) using both filters and had good results."

I don't see the word "ALL" anywhere in either quote. In addition, you're only taking a portion of my quote. I stated that BITOG members who have used Fram oil filters have had UOAs done and have had very good results. If you're referring to a different post, please give me the exact post number... I haven't had much sleep lately (new baby), so it's possible I'm missing it.

Here's a Fram filter failure. It could happen to any manufacturer though.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1178247&fpart=1

Here's a Fram filter failure. It could happen to any manufacturer though.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1178247&fpart=1

Agreed... in addition, the failure did not lead to any engine problems... at least none that were identified by a UOA.

I have no problems telling people not to use Fram IF there were any examples of problems caused by using Fram oil filters. As of yet, neither WisAccord or mdnky have given me any examples where they had any issues with using Fram oil filters... their only complaints seem to be based on what they find inside the filter.

I used Fram filters exclusively since they were so widely available from 1970 until 1996. I never had a car bite the bullet due to the filter. After learning a bit more I decided there were better filters available. Fram will not crater an engine......it has been said here countless times that better or equal filters are available for less money. THAT is the gripe......NOT that Fram makes a horrible filter...... Others make a better filter for less money, some make a worse filter for more money, do your research! I already have.

I have almost always used Fram, never had a problem. They show test data for 10-20 micron's, indicating 96 and 99% first pass rate. The same as any other filters. I called Wix and asked them about the same test, they told me their was the same. Told me that their filters were not designed to exceed the OEM design, but to be meet the same spec's.
That being said, I'm changing over to full Synthetic (5W-20) and I'm using M1-104, as I may go out to 10K miles (after oil test at 8K)...

I used Fram filters exclusively since they were so widely available from 1970 until 1996. I never had a car bite the bullet due to the filter. After learning a bit more I decided there were better filters available. Fram will not crater an engine......it has been said here countless times that better or equal filters are available for less money. THAT is the gripe......NOT that Fram makes a horrible filter...... Others make a better filter for less money, some make a worse filter for more money, do your research! I already have.

You'll get no argument from me. I agree 100% with what you say... as I've stated the same in my previous posts.

I have almost always used Fram, never had a problem. They show test data for 10-20 micron's, indicating 96 and 99% first pass rate. The same as any other filters. I called Wix and asked them about the same test, they told me their was the same. Told me that their filters were not designed to exceed the OEM design, but to be meet the same spec's.
That being said, I'm changing over to full Synthetic (5W-20) and I'm using M1-104, as I may go out to 10K miles (after oil test at 8K)...

Since this will be the first run with synthetic you will have remnants of the dino oil still in the engine. I strongly suggest you
A. change it at 5K for the first run or
B. do the UOA at 5K to see how well it's doing for extended use.

That being said, I'm changing over to full Synthetic (5W-20) and I'm using M1-104, as I may go out to 10K miles (after oil test at 8K)...

You may want to consider running www.auto-rx.com prior to going with the full synthetic.

You may want to consider running www.auto-rx.com prior to going with the full synthetic.

SS, I went to the inked site and I may give this stuff a shot. Have you used it?

Bowzer,

Haven't used it yet. I've read alot about it on www.bobistheoilguy.com. Click forums then "oil additives". It can also help with slipping transmissions.

One guy that tried it was burning a quart of oil every 300miles in a 98 Predude. The auto-rx hasn't seemed to help so far. Probably because its too far gone(beyond help).

All other posts(many of them) seem very positive.

I have been using part synthetic, and changing at 7500 (and an extra guard filter) miles,
so I'll do the same mileage, with the full, I'm thinking...
So far, I've only had to add 1/2 Qrt, during the 7500 Miles, and none when I used the Dino at 5k Miles (I fill my crankcase to, needs 1/2 Qrt, normally (so when I loose, 1/2, I'm at need ONE quart)...
I'm not a fan of oil cleaners. Too easy to create a leak, or other problem...

With a decent quality synthetic, you should be able to go 10k between changes. That is unless you do a significant amount of city, stop and go kind of driving.

My most recent run on synthetic was for 9,962 miles and the UOA indicated there was still life left in the oil. My MM was at 15%; I do about 80% highway driving.

AutoRX is a superb product. I will start running the maintenance dose in mine (32K miles) at each oil change.

AutoRX is a superb product. I will start running the maintenance dose in mine (32K miles) at each oil change.

Just curious, and maybe a bit of thread drift: did you notice any difference in mileage? I've been reading the BITOG threads about AutoRX and it shows results on fuel mileage in some cases. Obviously with $4 gas, this increases interest.:D

I'm not a fan of oil cleaners. Too easy to create a leak, or other problem...

I'm not a fan of additives either. Most additive companies want you to use their product every 3k. Auto-rx is different since after initial application they recommend only using a few ounces(instead of a full bottle) as a maintenance dose.

Just curious, and maybe a bit of thread drift: did you notice any difference in mileage? I've been reading the BITOG threads about AutoRX and it shows results on fuel mileage in some cases. Obviously with $4 gas, this increases interest.:D

In my case, with only about 32K on the clock, I would expect no difference in MPG. On a high mileage engine that needs the full cleaning regimen then I would expect a positive increase in MPG and a drop in oil consumption.

In my case, with only about 31K on the clock, I would expect no difference in MPG. On a high mileage engine that needs the full cleaning regimen then I would expect a positive increase in MPG and a drop in oil consumption.

One thing to consider is that on a high mileage engine, the seals might be bad, which is being masked by the build-up. Once you use AutoRX, you might start noticing leaking... similar to what happens when people switch to synthetic. It's not that the AutoRX caused the leaking, but it simply cleaned the build-up that was hiding the problem.

My dearest Honda Community:
Wishing you all the best, I would like to ask you few things here. My Accord LX, 4 doors, 4 cylinders, 2.3L and with 56000 miles is starting to build up smudge or ... how can I explain/say... the engine is just about to start to build up a plaster. The car is using synth blended or semi synth. The thecnicial is recommending me to switch to 100% synth. Actually I already bought a full bottle of Castrol synth 10W50 ready to be use. The technicial is also recommending me to change the semi synth or synth blended oil (which has only 1865 miles of used) to 100% synth and start to change it in intervals of 1865 miles each interval, so the detergent or cleansing agent will be able to remove the oil plaster that is just starting to generate. According to the technician it will only be achieve with a subsequents and shorts period of intervals between oil changes.

So, to conclude, two (02) questions: is that ok to switch from semi synth or synth blended to 100% synth? and is it right what my technician is telling me about the "flushing" oil technique?

Appreciate your cooperation and help with your always welcome comments, opinions, suggestions, inputs, etc.

Very best regards
Mendione

It is okay to switch to synthetic at anytime.

I am wondering what led to your technician discovering "smudge" in your engine? Doesn't sound like a routine check item to me. I would be suspicious at this point as more frequent oil changes (synthetic or not) is not going to resolve the issue of smudge. Sounds like you've got a bigger problem in your hands.

I would recommend you go to a Honda dealership to have this looked at.

It is okay to switch to synthetic at anytime.

I am wondering what led to your technician discovering "smudge" in your engine? Doesn't sound like a routine check item to me. I would be suspicious at this point as more frequent oil changes (synthetic or not) is not going to resolve the issue of smudge. Sounds like you've got a bigger problem in your hands.

I would recommend you go to a Honda dealership to have this looked at.

Agree with everything stated in this post. :thmsup:

Dear Left Laner and Sjlee:
Thank you very much to you for your kindly inputs. I, myself saw it, because he open the oil lid (where the oil has to pour), he then introduced his finger and took a sample of it - the smudge -. As I told you, it is just about to started and he told me that switching to synthetic oil and for the first - at least - four changes of oil, each change with interval's in between of 1865 miles or 3000 kilometers should solve the problem.

He said to me that we can take the opportunity of the detegent feature of the synthetic oil to clean everywhere inside of the engine (of course, where the oil goes). The other procedure will be to download the entire engine, disassemble it, part by part and clean it part by part.

What I think I am going to do is to use the oil's procedure (the one that I am mentioning here) and if this procedure does not work, then I will go with the disassemble procedure.

Or if you have another alternative, I would encourge you here, kindly, to expose any other alternative I may have here, and in advanced, thank you so, so much

Mendione

My dearest Honda Community:
Wishing you all the best, I would like to ask you few things here. My Accord LX, 4 doors, 4 cylinders, 2.3L and with 56000 miles is starting to build up smudge or ... how can I explain/say... the engine is just about to start to build up a plaster. The car is using synth blended or semi synth. The thecnicial is recommending me to switch to 100% synth. Actually I already bought a full bottle of Castrol synth 10W50 ready to be use. The technicial is also recommending me to change the semi synth or synth blended oil (which has only 1865 miles of used) to 100% synth and start to change it in intervals of 1865 miles each interval, so the detergent or cleansing agent will be able to remove the oil plaster that is just starting to generate. According to the technician it will only be achieve with a subsequents and shorts period of intervals between oil changes.

So, to conclude, two (02) questions: is that ok to switch from semi synth or synth blended to 100% synth? and is it right what my technician is telling me about the "flushing" oil technique?

Appreciate your cooperation and help with your always welcome comments, opinions, suggestions, inputs, etc.

Very best regards
Mendione


The switch to full synthetic makes sense but the oil suggested, 10W50, does not. Did your read above about Auto RX? Highly suggested treatment. In spite of your heat & humidity 5W30 (if available there) would serve your purpose, 10W30 would also suffice.

i have 08 accord coupe with 13,000 miles already. Would it hurt or benifit me to change to synethic or stay put with my regular 5w20????

You are guilty of hijacking a thread! Shame on you.

What you have asked however is open to opinion. I prefer synthetic oil but your engine will likely run longer than you want to keep the car on regular oil. In my opinion you would benefit, in the long run, from synthetic oil. If it's a two year lease////FUHGETABOUTIT, run your regular stuff.

If you plan on keeping it for a decade then I feel you would benefit from synthetic. No negatives other than cost. The cost factor can be negated by buying on sale and changing the oil/filter yourself. Pennzoil Platinum is a superb oil and can be had on sale if you so desire.

Dear Left Laner and Sjlee:
Thank you very much to you for your kindly inputs. I, myself saw it, because he open the oil lid (where the oil has to pour), he then introduced his finger and took a sample of it - the smudge -. As I told you, it is just about to started and he told me that switching to synthetic oil and for the first - at least - four changes of oil, each change with interval's in between of 1865 miles or 3000 kilometers should solve the problem.

He said to me that we can take the opportunity of the detegent feature of the synthetic oil to clean everywhere inside of the engine (of course, where the oil goes). The other procedure will be to download the entire engine, disassemble it, part by part and clean it part by part.

What I think I am going to do is to use the oil's procedure (the one that I am mentioning here) and if this procedure does not work, then I will go with the disassemble procedure.

Or if you have another alternative, I would encourge you here, kindly, to expose any other alternative I may have here, and in advanced, thank you so, so much

Mendione

How often did you change the oil in your Accord? I'm surprised to hear that a modern Honda engine with such low miles develop sludge... especially when using synthetic blend oil.

That being said, using synthetic oil will work, but it will take a while for it to clean the engine completely. As RTexasF stated, you might consider going with Auto-RX, which will clean the engine.

i have 08 accord coupe with 13,000 miles already. Would it hurt or benifit me to change to synethic or stay put with my regular 5w20????

You definitely won't hurt your engine switching to synthetic, but it's hard to say if you will actually benefit from it... particularly with just normal street driving.

If you follow the Maintenance Minder, then you can use conventional oil without much worry.

I am disturbed by the fact your mechanic recommended such frequent changes or else disassembling the engine to solve the problem (if there is even a problem). I am thinking it is either a serious problem beyond just sludge in your engine, or your mechanic is just trying to get more money out of you and nothing else. You NEED to go to your Honda dealership to confirm the issue BEFORE you let your mechanic even touch your car again. i am not convinced that changing your oil every 3000 kms serves any sort of benefit to your Accord.

As for the frequency of oil changes, i use synthetic on both my Accords and change my 04 V6 every 8000 kms and my 08 I4 when the MM tells me to (first oil change was 11,000 kms at 5%).

As for the cost, the other posters are right -- synthetic costs more relative to dino oil. The reason I use synthetic is because the cost for the oil in the US is only a little bit more than dino oil is in Canada. And because I travel to the US 2-3 times per year, I bring back 3-4 bottles of synthetic and just get my dealer to change it for me using my oil.

TAKE YOUR ACCORD TO YOUR DEALER -- they SPECIALIZE in Hondas!

Dear Friends.

First and foremost I want to thank you all for your invaluable opinions, advises and suggestions. Really, I want to express my gratefulness and appreciation.

Kindly to RTexasF, What we have here in Venezuela - even though this is an oil country producer... whatta shame - is a limited amount of inventory in terms of brands and specifications. As brands, I made my survey and only found Castrol, ACDelco, Valvoline, and the national PDV which I forbid and forget and erase from my list... of course. Ok, from this list, I pick up Castrol just because the refrigerant is Castrol as well, but I am not married with nobody here. As for specs, I only found 10W50 applying to all of the above brands. Very peculiar situation here in this country... chavezland!.

Kindly to SJLee as well, I usually change the oil in intervals of 5000 kilometers or 3106 miles, probably one time when the car was new (still is a new car in terms of miles) 10000 kilometers or 6214 miles, but I think this happens one time. Now I am changing the oil in intervals of 4000 kilometers or 2485 miles in each period BUT with semisynth or synth blended. Regarding the Auto-Rx, I am not sure to be capable and able to find this product here in chavezland, but since I am going to my dearest homeland (USA) soon, I will buy the required amount there and bring it with me to chavezland back.

Kindly to Left-Laner and thank you for intervene here. I am also disturb for the sludge thing. Actually the car works just incredible fine. It has power, it is so great to drive it, everything works on it, all the accessories, everything works inside of the car. I took my car to one of the Hondas dealer here and they are all thief, robber and assailant. I had one time a problem with a knock sensor (should be the threads here in this prestigious forum) and they - the dealer - took from my pocket around US$ 500.00 to replace the sensor for a new one, and guess what, it was NOT the sensor, it was the connector that cost me US$ 6.00. In a total they took me from my pocket US$ 494.00. But in any case I took the car to them I they where the one that discovered the creation of the sludge. Actually the sludge is just about to start.

My conclusion, and this conclusion is totally based upon you all kindly advises, comments, opinions, inputs, etc. I will switch to synth oil, Castrol synth 10W50, I will going to make the oil change each 3000 kilometers or 1864 miles. I will do this process at least five (05) times or when the sludge generation process conclude - whichever come first. In the course of this process I will buy the required amount of Auto-Rx and will give it a try. If all of above cannot stop the sludge generation process, then I will give up and will do two (02) things, one could be disassemble the engine part by part and clean each part... then reassemble or two sell the car and by a new one.

For all your incredible and invaluable input, contribution, advises, comments and opinions, I want to express my deep gratitude, gratefulness and appreciation. Thank you all

Mendione

I do not believe that your engine has sludge in it. Also changing any synthetic oil at 3000 kilometers is simply throwing away perfectly good oil. The product Auto RX must be ordered online, it is not available in stores here. Here is a link to it:

http://www.auto-rx.com/

My dear friend RTexasF

With my all due respect, I saw the sludge in the finger of the gentleman. I want to thank you for what you are saying here because in some way what you are saying relax me a little bit, I highly appreciate that.

Regarding the synthetic oil @ 3000 KTMS, I am totally agree with you. I am throwing a perfect, synth oil, plus the money it is costing me (around US$ 40.00, 5 quarts), but in the mission to stop the sludge, I think I will do it.

Next the Auto-RX. Indeed I visited their website, and you know what... first they are telling there that this Auto-RX works with dino oil and not with synth, even with semi synth it does not work. Secondly, I presume and feel that this product will damage parts of the engine that right now are perfect... its a feeling that I have. I will continue to read more and more about this Auto-RX and learn more about it.

Hoping that nothing happens to you, your family and love ones in the Mighty Sate of Texas because of the hurricane, I want to thank you once again

Mendione

I think based on the opinions you are given here, they are all valid, but it is your vehicle so you are one who decides what to you to resolve this problem.

I just feel that without the opinions of your Honda dealership, not only are you throwing your money away, but you may make the problem worse. More frequent oil changes is NOT going to solve your problem!

Good luck my friend, and remember....boycott CITGO :biggrin:

Dear Left Laner:

Thank you for your words. I will keep you posted and also to all herein this great forum. By the way, tomorrow I will start the chemotherapy treatment to my car. I don't no why I have faith in this procedure.

Regarding boycott to citgo (in lower case), not only boycott but also boycott to every mission, every move this really bad guy wants to do. He needs to be stop, and the sooner the better.

Mendione

Auto RX is a natural cleaner not a solvent. You use it with regular oil because some synthetics negate the cleaning that the Auto RX accomplishes. Regular oil is simply a carrier. It will not and can not hurt anything inside the engine. It is not a chemical flush which can be harmful. It has a long slow cleaning action which is much more thorough than a one time chemical dumped into the engine. Once the treatment with RX is complete you can go back to synthetic oil.
Where did the mechanic get the sludge that he showed you? Did he have the engine apart? Did you actually see him do this or did he just appear suddenly with greasy gunk on his finger? Could he have fooled you?

I ask this because Honda engines are not prone to sludge even when neglected and your's has not been.

My dear friend RTexasF:

Thank you so much for coming back again here in this thread and giving the best of you advising me. I want to thank you so much for this.
Ok, lets break apart your posted here. Two part, the Auto-RX and the sludge. First the RX. Since I am planning to switch from semi-synth to 100% synth for "curatives" reasons explained here in the recent past, what I am understanding from you is to stop this procedure, buy a required amount of Auto-RX, download from semi-synth to mineral (dino) oil, have the Auto-RX treatment along with the mineral oil, once the treatment is successfully finished, I can go back (upload) to 100% synth. Well, actually, it sounds like a plan, definitively, but there are some considerations herein, number one, it will take some time to bring here the Auto-RX, number two the car is approaching to its oil change time, but I will stop the 100% synth oil change since the car still has 1000 kilometers for the oil change. I will stop it to think about it, to buy the Auto-RX. By the way, how many Auto-RX bottles I should buy?

The next part of your kindly thread/post is about the sludge. Well, the mechanic was with me or I should said I was with the mechanic when he did the following: he first open the oil lid that is in the upper part of the engine (where the oil is pouring), then he introduce his finger until he touch one of the valve's head (I presume) and then his finger extract the sludge, not too much sludge, but it was definitively sludge. Then, he extract all the valve's cover (he took away the spark plugs, etc) and then we were able to look in a more detailed the "famous" sludge".

I am happy to learn that the Honda engines are not prone to sludge even when neglected, but this sludge is just starting to generate and I know perfectly what the sludge is capable to do if it is not attack right on time.

My dear friend RTexasF, based on your slogan "Old Bird... sometimes (must of the time) wise", what - based on your experienced - is my best bet herein? In advanced, thank you so much.

Mendione

I wonder if that sludge is a result of using 10w50??? Esp since the oil cap says 5w30. I remember going from a 5w20 to a 10w30 for one oil change and noticing a difference. Can't imagine what a 10w50 would feel like.

I would do two doses(2 bottles) of the Auto-rx because of your circumstances and follow the directions to a tee. If you don't you could be wasting your money. Clean stage/rinse stage then repeat(4 stages total).

Then use favorite synthetic in the proper weight. Nothing thicker than a 30wt as RtexasF mentioned.

Dear friend SatinSilver:

Thank you for your time reading this and for your effort in helping me in this particular issue. I contacted Auto-RX by email, and please allow me to copy-paste my email to Auto-RX and their kindly answer.

My email to Auto-RX:
" Dear Auto-RX tech support:

First want to thank you for your time reading this my email and kindly ask you to answer it. My name is Manuel and I know you guys because I am subscribed to a Honda Accord forum (www.driveaccord.net) whereas some gentleman recommend your product for what my car's engine is having.

I have - of course - an Honda Accord 1999, 4 cylinder, 2.3 litres, 4 doors with 56000 miles since new. The engine surprisingly and suddenly is starting to produce or generate sludge. I could visually confirm that. The car is using semi synth oil 10W40. The mechanic wants to upload from semi synth oil to 100% synth oil. I have been reading your website and I know that Auto-RX does NOT work with neither semi-synth nor 100% synth oil. It only works with mineral (dino) oil. Since my car is using semi-synth oil, I would have to download from semi-synth to mineral oil which, in turn, I also have been learn that this download oil procedure is not recommended.

Saying the above, I would like to kindly encourage you to help me out in this problem. You may email me to this email address (mendione@hotmail.com) and/or mendione@gmail.com or even mendione@cantv.net .

Thank you in advanced, waiting for your kindly answer to this email
Sincerely Yours "

Their answer:

" We want you to stop using a semi-synthetic or synthetic oil. One of the additives in these oils job is to hold oil to the metal. Your in effect perpetuating your sludge problem. You can,t use these type oil again. I would suggest you read the FAQ and the application for sludge on www.auto-rx.com We have removed sludge and controlled future sludge on hundreds of engines including Honda,s.Mechanics don,t like this (they won,t even open the hood for $ 60.00) Please get back to me if you can feel comfortable with my chemistry.Frank Miller"

They are kindly stating that I will not going to be able to use AGAIN neither semi nor synth oil again.... sounds like forever...

Please allow me to describe the chronology of the oils and their viscosity:
Car start to use ACDelco Semi Synth 10W40. ACDelco as brand suddenly disappear and switched to Castrol Semi Synth 10W40. Now, if I upload from semi-synth to synth, it will be Castrol Synthetic 5W50.

The oil lid of my engine's car does not refer to any spec. It does mention to refer to the owners manual which I did and the owners manual does not says nothing about rigorous boundaries oil specs. It mentioned oil from 5 to 50.

Anyhow, I am highly interesting to hear your always welcomed and professional comments from the answer from Auto-RX. Thank you StatinSilver and everybody here

Mendione

I can honestly say that I've always put conventional oil into all of my cars and never had any sludge problems. This includes my Acura Integra (which had over 165k miles) and my Honda Pilot (which has over 40k miles).

You could try taking their advice and switch to using conventional oil. With 3k mile oil changes, you're not really taking advantage of synthetic.

I'm with RTexasF... I think the mechanic may be trying to fool you. Are you sure what you're looking at is sludge and not something else?

What oil filter are you using and do you change it with each oil change?

Dear SJLee:
Thank you for your answer and comments. I can assure you they are welcome. I am positive that what I saw was sludge, but now I am doubting because all of you kindly are doubting that what I said I saw was truly sludge. I think that what I am going to do is to open the valve's cover and take a sample and make myself double sure if it is sludge or not... but I am very, pretty sure it is.

I always use Honda genuine oil filter and I always change the oil filter with the oil change.

Again, thank you so much for your advises, comments, opinions and solidarity

Mendione

I'm not trying to insult anyone, but does anyone else think that his posts sound like an email from a Nigerian banker? :lmao:

If you decide to go with Auto RX........do it TWICE since you are convinced you have sludge. Use regular oil for both treatments and the flushes. Just follow the directions exactly. If you are unable to buy the product or have it shipped to you then use regular oil and change it often (3000-5000 miles) until you can get the Auto RX. Since you say you are coming to the U.S. can you not have friends or family order two bottles and take them back with you? Since you have such trouble obtaining things there I suggest your friends/family order multiple bottles. Two to remove the sludge and the remainder for maintenance doses. It's not cheap but assuming the engine is indeed beginning to show signs of sludge, the maintenance doses will keep it at bay for many years to come. Once again, after the first two treatments are complete you can change to a synthetic oil if desired. I see no particular advantage in doing that. Regular oil, changed at 5000 miles intervals, along with the maintenance dose will keep the interior of your engine clean enough to eat off of.

It is entirely up to you how you want to handle this "sludging" situation.

Sjlee:

I am not following you at all... What are you really trying to say. The nigerian banker joke is ok, but if it is regarding to my email's address, I can assure you that those are my emails. You can give it a try.

Mendione

Dear RTexasF:

Thank you Sir for your advises. Thank you so much for your time and interest.

Mendione

Dear RTexasF:

I don't know why but there is a felling of fear to download from semi-synth (actually using) to mineral oil. Again, I don't know why. What about, and I am kindly requesting your wise opinion, what about if I just use pure synth Castrol 5W50 and change it in exactly 2485 miles or 4000 kilometers. I have been reading that with this procedure the sludge will be clean in the medium run and will keep away from building up again. The downsize of this system is the waste of oil (because it will be clean and useful) and money (because it will only endure 2485 miles inside the engine), plus contamination when discarding the oil, which is a matter that really affects me.

Once again your comments and opinion are more than welcome, and thank you, in advanced

Mendione

mendione,

Apparently oil is very cheap there in Venezuela. Do as you please with the synthetic. Many have given their thoughts and opinions but the final decision is yours, of course. I have nothing more to add.

Another data point for you oil experts - I remember from some of mendione's past posts that his car sits in very heavy traffic, probably idling or creeping the vast majority of the time. I've never seen a post before from a 6thGen owner with sludge, even on cars with >200K miles. Would his driving conditions be the cause?

That along with the temps and humidity are prime suspects.

Dear Cajun and RTexasF:

Thank you so much for your time and wisdom in helping me with this sludge problem. Yes, indeed Cajun has an elephant memory, at least 4GigaBytesin RAM (HEHE). Here in Caracas, Venezuela the traffic is insupportable. Temp is around nowadays about 86F or 30C. Humidity as RTexasF stated is in the upper 70's~80's.

Oil is cheap here in Venezuela? YES! it is, to give you an idea, the Castrol synthetic 5W50 cost US$ 8.00 the quarter and US$ 24.00 4 quarter jar.

About my move, I think that I will be going with the Auto-RX procedure, following Auto-RX instructions and mentoring by Mr. RTexasF. I am hopefully flying to USA in about three (03) weeks and then I will buy the required amount of Auto-RX.

I will keep you all properly informed, on time. I want to - once again - thank you all, including SJLee, for your invaluable solidarity, your comments, orientation, advises. Thank you guys!

Mendione

I would be careful with blends. They are nothing more than 20% synthetic and 80% conventional. I do not think they are worth the extra money. As far as switching one over to synthetic, if it does not leak oil or burn oil and is in excellent operating condition a synthetic would be great for anything. The worst synthetic on the market is better than a conventional.

Thank you Roadman and everybody here.

I already change, migrate, move from semi synth to synth. So far so good. I did the change @ 90000 kilometers or 55923 miles, the car is now just steped into 91000 kilometers or 56544 miles and just waiting for 93000 kilometers or 57787 miles to do the second change and the next one will be @ 96000 kilometers or 59651 miles. If this intensive oil change works, then I will be pleased, if not, there is a chance, and it is Auto-Rx.

Thank you everybody for your help and comments
Mendione

I recently went to Pennzoil Platinum, been using it for maybe 1500 miles now. Now butt dyno and real dyno are 2 different things but in the real world butt dyno counts more to me. I feel less power in my car than when Castrol Syntec was in it. Many will say its all in my head but the engine feels without a doubt less vibrant to my right foot. I cant wait to go back to Castrol Syntec.

I switched to MotoMaster Formula 1 synthetic 5W-20 on the 2nd oil change (at 10k miles/16k km and OLM says 30%). i think Motomaster Forumla should be similar to ForumlaShell. So far so smooth

I love the 'Free Flow" of ideas and communication offered by this forum. I have had many autos. I used Castol GTX in most of them with no problem. Regular 3K interval changes. However, starting with my 93 Infiniti G-20 I started with synthetic (Royal Purple) have used in all subsequent cars including Infiniti J-30t, 01 Accord Coupe 6 cylinder, 2003 Accord EX Sedan 6 Cylinder Auto, 2004 Accord 4 Cylinder 5 Speed MT, and my present 2007 Accord. I have had no problems. The key IMO is regular changes and a good filter. All is depending on type of driving and other conditions (Climate). New Orleans in the Summer is usually 95+ degress F. and 100% Humidity.

I have thought of using a combination of peanut oil and olive oil with an old sock as a filter but was afraid that the car would smell like a Popeyes Chicken outlet.

BTW I had a 1965 Volvo 122S, nothing but dino oil. I sold it to a friend with nol ess than 300K on the engine. He put another 100K on it before selling it. Nothing but dino oil back then. So was it the engine that was good, the dino oil, regular changes or a combination of all 3.