Hey, i think im going to order a h.i.d. kit this weekend so i wanted to know if this is the rundown

1 wear gloves and dont touch the bulbs
2 remove stock harness and replace with h.i.d. harness and bulbs
3 slip the new bulbs in.
4 mount the 2 ballast in a place where they wont get wet
5 connect wires into ballastes
6 mount the ground wire????
7 connect to battery terminal
8 remove day time running light fuse. or else what happens car blows up?
9 check my 20hp gain from the mod.....just kidding:D
Also which place should i order from retro or depot?
Retro has digital, depot doesnt?
Whats the big diffence between regular and digital hid kit?
I want the whitest lighting, thats 4300k right?

Do you have an '08 Accord coupe which has OEM projector headlights or are you planning also to do a retro-fit install (ie. projectors + plug-n-play HID kit)?

What's your anticipated budget for an HID kit?

Sorry...Yes i got a black v6 6spd 08 coupe

Well Mr. 'red-belly' (ie. piranha)... what's your price-range (ie. $75 - $500)?

There are a myriad of HID kits out there, all vary greatly in terms of components and origin of the kit.

300ish
55w
http://www.kbcarstuff.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=XT%2D4Kp&CartID=

or

http://www.retro-solutions.com/55WKIT.html

Our sponsor, XenonDepot (http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=18122&highlight=xenondepot), sells conversation kits also.

300ish
55w
http://www.kbcarstuff.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=XT%2D4Kp&CartID=

or

http://www.retro-solutions.com/55WKIT.html

i have the 35 watt retro kit...happy with the results :thmsup:...oh and 6k is dreamy :naughty:

4300 K has a litte bit yellow.
6000 K has a little bit blue.


6000 K is closer to the whitest, IMO

4300k FTW, RETRO FTW!

So what is the size for the bulbs in the coupe if i were to do an hid conversion?

guys are those pretty much the run down instructions? 1-8

So what is the size for the bulbs in the coupe if i were to do an hid conversion?

H11

Hi Piranhaleg,

As per your questions:

1) All the kits that we sell on our website use Digital ballasts. XenonDepot has been selling Digital ballasts since 2001.

2) On your vehicle I don't believe that you need to deactivate the DRL (someone correct me if i'm wrong on this).

3) H11 is the correct bulb size.

4) The kit you are looking at on our website uses genuine German made Philips capsules hence the price increase. Make sure to use our driveaccord.net coupon code though - DA to save an extra $25.

Regards,

Steve

get a direct plug and play kit so you dont have to ground wires or attach to power sources. this means that whatever you buy, the ballasts will plug into the factor plug that used to supply power to the bulb. then, the ballast will send a new plug to the new bulb. no extraneous wires.

mine was not direct p+p, and i had slip my ground and power supply into the factory plug, they had tips crimped on that slid right in and i securely fastened them. HIDs in for about a month now and no issues.

no need to disconnect DRLs, wont make a difference.

question, and maybe xenon depot can answer. can one use silicon to seal off the ballasts so that they don't get wet?

Nobody has really seemed to go through your steps and critiqued it so maybe I will take a stab at it (feel free to denounce me if it is incorrect). Keep in mind I used the Retro Solutions kit.

1 wear gloves and dont touch the bulbs - VERY IMPORTANT (Hard to not touch the bulbs when there is very limited space to work with.)
2 remove stock harness and replace with h.i.d. harness and bulbs - All you need to do is plug the black and red wires from the HID kit into the stock harness (hence "plug and play"). Dont have to remove anything but the stock bulbs.
3 slip the new bulbs in. - good luck! very hard to see. you will need to do it by touch.
4 mount the 2 ballast in a place where they wont get wet - I placed mine to the frame of the car by removing the bumper (not required).
5 connect wires into ballastes - Correct!
6 mount the ground wire???? - there is no grounding required!
7 connect to battery terminal - Optional... Taffy and I have not found it to be necessary.
8 remove day time running light fuse. or else what happens car blows up? - Some people have had output consistencey problem (light flickering) I have not. Still using my DRLs and no problems.

TIP: as far as removing and inserting the bulbs, be gentle and find someone with small hands. Im 6 feet and kept getting stuck on the various platics. so I had my 5'4" friend get in there and remove and insert for me.

Hi,

In terms of using/not using a relay harness you might want to read this thread:

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=18602&highlight=xenondepot+relay

As per what I wrote in that thread:

We include a relay harness with our kits for several reasons:

1) The harness ensures that you do not damage your vehicle's OEM headlight harness. HIDs do operate on 35W however upon startup they can draw up to 17A per side. Your stock headlight wiring is designed with fuses to protect it however if HIDs do draw too much power the fuse will only protect your wiring from the fusebox however the stock 9006/H11 sockets won't be protected.

2) The Harness ensures that the ballasts get a constant 12V.

Many companies do not include a relay harness not becuase it is not necessary. They do not include a relay harness because a relay harness costs money. While some of you may not experience a problem installing a kit without a relay harness I can assure you that some of you will. Believe me when I say that we don't just include a relay harness with our kits for the sake of it.


lldsandsll - Our ballasts are epoxy sealed:

http://www.kbcarstuff.com/EasyEditor/assets/epoxy3.jpg

You do not need to worry about the ballast getting wet.

Steve

xenon depot makes a very good kit!

as far as changing the bulbs, that is a BIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII***

my recommendation, get your car on a lift and go thru the wheel well. that is the simplest way to access the bulb and remove.

i got the cheapy ebay kit for like $75. it takes about 10 or 15 seconds to be at full power, but i've never had flickering issues, and since i mounted behind the bumper (removed bumper) i think they will be safe from water. like i said, ive had them in about a month, in south florida where it rains a TON, and i have no complaints. the kits looks fantastical (wow, fantastical didnt get underlined for spelling, how odd).

i'd still recommend a better kit like XD's if money isn't a major factor. i really like the look of their product. then again, the few ppl i know with the ebay kit, who have had them in longer, state that they have no problems either.

The DRL's are a completely different bulb, I don't see why you would have to pull the fuse.

That is exactly the reason I didn't think that DRL would be an issue.

Steve

If your budget is 300ish, in addition to XD, I would also look into HIDconcept. They have a Matsushita ballast (used by Acura OEM) and Philips bulb combo. I'll send you a link to the 5000K cuz that's the best looking one (and what I have in mine:D)
http://hidconcept.com/Kits-matsu-ph-5000K.html
You would, of course, want to look into getting a relay separately.

umm, phillips only makes D2S and D2R bulbs from what i understand...the wording in there makes me wonder

umm, phillips only makes D2S and D2R bulbs from what i understand...the wording in there makes me wonder

That is correct, and Phillips also doesn't make 5K HID bulbs....

umm, phillips only makes D2S and D2R bulbs from what i understand...the wording in there makes me wonderThat's correct, but these German/European manufactured Philips D2S/D2R Xenon bulbs are then 'rebased' in Southeast Asia to be able to fit particular/individual applications (ie. H1/H2/H3/H4, 9005/9006, etc'...).

To the best of my knowledge, Philips has producd 3000K, 4100K,4300K, 5000K, and 6000K bulbs - all used in various OEM applications.

I personally recommend a Philips Ultinon 6000K HID kit w/ the Hella-Philips Gen' IV ballasts and relay-harness. It's around $375-$425, but it's second to none as far as plug-n-play goes in terms of quality of components, durability/longevity, light-production, color, ease of installation, etc'.

If I just wanted HID on my Accord for the sake of having HID, I'd get a mediocre, 4300K plug-n-play kit (ie. $125 - $175) of which there are literally tons & tons of offerings available.

osiris x11, we used to carry kits that used the Philips Gen IV ballasts however we chose to phase them out. Philips ballasts are great for OEM HID applications however they are also designed specifically for OEM HID applications. In OEM HID applications the ballasts are usually encased within the headlight protecting them from water damage. In aftermarket HID applications the ballast is usually mounted outside the headlight where it is susceptible to weather damage and moisture. Over time, we found that the ballasts that we use in our Xtreme kits were outperforming the Philips ballasts as Xtreme ballasts are specifically designed for aftermarket applications. As I mentioned above, they are epoxy sealed to ensure that they are water tight.

As for the bulbs, there are many companies out there that advertise that they sell HID kits that use Philips bulbs and ballasts. In alot of cases, you may end up getting a Philips ballast however you end up getting a replicated Philips bulb. Philips HID bulbs have a unique shape & design that is visually different than imitation Philips capsules. We sell HID kits that use 4300k bulbs Philips bulbs and Xtreme ballasts here:

http://www.kbcarstuff.com/Xtreme_HID_4300k_Philips_Xenon_HID_Conversion_Kits _p/xt-4kp.htm

Our kits will come with a proper relay harness that will protect your OEM wiring. Our harness is designed so that each side has its own independent fuse and relay.

The kit is normally $284.99 however by typing in the "DA" coupon code the price drops down to $259.99.

Hope this helps,

Steve

Anybody who takes the time to repley, to my post and explain in detail the answers to my question gets my sale. thanks steve. I think ill order tonight or tomorrow. hey 1 more question. I wanted the whitest light possible and noooooo yellow. I was thinking 4300k, but i keep hearing that they put out some yellow. Should I go with a 6000k 55w instead?

Whats the difference between 35w and 55w, anyone have comparison pictures?

I wanted the whitest light possible and noooooo yellow. I was thinking 4300k, but i keep hearing that they put out some yellow. Should I go with a 6000k 55w instead?

4300 is usually considered pure white, which does contain some yellow. These lights may look more yellow to you than the HIDs you have seen in other cars. 6000k will look more blue, I would go with 5000k which is usually white light with just a hint of blue. XenonDepot should give you a better idea since sometimes these colors can vary by company.

Does anyone have a video of this install ?

Whats the difference between 35w and 55w, anyone have comparison pictures?

http://www.high-intensity.org/forums/showthread.php?t=563

nice, thats a big difference, im def getting 55w+relay

justeddie thank u also.

My pleasure! Alot of poeple in this forum helped me out so I am just returning the favor.

BTW... with our projectors, 4300K won't look like the pure white you are expecting. That's why I went 5000K (really white with hint of blue) but even then I still wish it was a little more blue. So 6000K should do the trick but people might notice it is aftermarket. (People keep thinking my Accord came with HIDs).

Let us know what you go with.

Did you guys see this link:

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=17475&highlight=xenondepot

Pictures of our 6500k kit installed.

If you find this output a little too "bluish" I would suggest looking at either the 4300k or 5000k.

Steve

i got the cheap kit on ebay. ($74 shipped) more money.. better the kit? i dont know you'll be the judge of that. it's your money. but i heard some good feedbacks from our sponsor XenonDEPOT and they're give you $25 discount.. can't beat that..

make sure you get something in the 6K range for anything over that is a bit bluish. (I got 8K and it looks nice but it is a bit bluish... either way. it is brighter and better than halogen stock light.. but it a bit of a wash when it rains..)

are you going through the wheel well or are you taking your front bumper off? there is a difference there. i think going with the bumper off will give you the best and ample room to mount your ballast.
if you're going through the wheel well.. *(black plastic under your wheels) just make sure you bend SH*t outta wheel well WAY DOWN!! (they will go right back into the shape) give yourself more room to work with.
look from front end of the car and visualize where the harness is. and then try go through your wheelwell and look. you will see the harness. what i did was i cut the black tape that was holding the two harness together. this helps alot...
remove the harness before you take the bulb out.
take the bulb out. once you get your stock bulb out, take the washer out of the stock bulb and replace with your NEW HID bulb. sometimes this make the fitment more secure/easier.
some people said you need ground.. but i didn't and it's been working fine for over 6 months. also i have my DRL and still working fine. No blowing up...
also test your lights out before you put stuff back together. take some pics of all these stuff... if you are taking doing this on a weekend.. so that all these that are trying to do this later will thank you.!!

good lucK!