Hey everyone,

Let me start by saying my apologies if there is another thread on this, I wasn't able to find one. How difficult is it to change the oil on the I4 190HP? Most specifically oil filter location and resetting the service indicator.

Also, does this car come with synthetic from the factory?

Thanks

Man,, you should march right down to your dealer and buy the service package contract.. Includes 3K oil change, lupe, oil filter, tire rotation and safety check up to 60K miles. All for I belive I paid $600. Hard to pass on that,, If your car is still reasoanbly new see if you can still buy that option. I think they use a mix synthetic oil but not sure...

Have you changed oil before? I can't find an I4 DIY oil change, but I am searching. There are threads that might help you out as that engine is almost the same as the I-4 in the 03-07 Accords.

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=12269&highlight=diy+oil+change

Man,, you should march right down to your dealer and buy the service package contract.. Includes 3K oil change, lupe, oil filter, tire rotation and safety check up to 60K miles. All for I belive I paid $600. Hard to pass on that,, If your car is still reasoanbly new see if you can still buy that option. I think they use a mix synthetic oil but not sure...

I sure hope this is a joke! First off you don't change the oil every 3000 miles you use the oil minder. Second there are no fittings to lube, and third a tire rotation is dirt cheap.

If this is true and you're happy with it then good for you. I consider it one of the biggest ripoffs I've ever heard of. SIX HUNDRED BUCKS???? Wow!

Hey everyone,

Let me start by saying my apologies if there is another thread on this, I wasn't able to find one. How difficult is it to change the oil on the I4 190HP? Most specifically oil filter location and resetting the service indicator.

Also, does this car come with synthetic from the factory?

Thanks


The car does not come with synthetic from the factory. I understand that the oil filter has been moved to a more convenient place than the 7th generation four bangers. Hopefully someone that has changed the oil on an 8th gen will chime in. I bet if you crawled under the front of the car you could see the filter.

I sure hope this is a joke! !

Agreed. Oil doesn't need to be changed nearly that often, but even getting it changed every 3k for 60k miles means you are paying 30 bucks an oil change (not to mention you probably aren't getting the best oil or filters). Tire rotation is easy and free to do yourself, and "safety check" is the dealer's way of finding things to charge you for. Like texas said, if you are happy, good for you. But OP should realize this isn't some kind of great deal by any stretch of the imagination.

Man,, you should march right down to your dealer and buy the service package contract.. Includes 3K oil change, lupe, oil filter, tire rotation and safety check up to 60K miles. All for I belive I paid $600. Hard to pass on that,, If your car is still reasoanbly new see if you can still buy that option. I think they use a mix synthetic oil but not sure...

Ouch!

With the MM, you will almost certainly be going beyond 3000 miles before you change the oil. So therefore, I would not be inclined to say that $600 for this package is a good deal by any means. As for tire rotations, 3000 miles is too frequent. And besides, the MM will take care of virtually all your maintenance needs. As for the safety check, that should be standard in all oil changes.

If oil is changed every 5000 miles you would require approx 12 visits to your dealer. At $35 per visit, you would only have paid $420 + taxes.

I changed my oil at 6800 miles with 10% oil life remaining. I would be looking at 9-10 visits to my dealership before I reach 60,000 miles for total cost of $350 + taxes. Sorry my friend, I think you got shafted by your dealer.

The factory oil is not synthetic, but has special additives to aid in the break-in process and is not recommended you change it until it is time to do so. Changing your factory oil early does not help your engine last longer and is just money wasted.

The procedures to change the oil, transmission fluid, air filter and more are in the owners manual. There are pictures to help.

Check it out, good luck.

$600 for a service pkg to 60k is insane. The car requires nothing but oil changes and air filter changes until 120k miles. Brake fluid every 3 years, trans fluid every 30k.

I dont find $30 per oil change visits out of line. Especially when you factor in tire rotations and wheel balancing and new air cleaner every 15k. Jesh,, Jiffly lupe charges that amount. The dealer uses a synthitic blend, meaning not 100 percent synthetic. Im not sure what oil brand they use but will find out. Also, at 30,000 they change out transmission and rear diverential fluids, another factor. Im happy with it, it flips my boat regardless what your opinion is.. I have and always will change my oil at 3K and 2500 on my cycels. Maybe not necessay but that's me....

Changing your oil is very simple, but let me give you some pointers, as I like to help new people feel confident when starting to maintain their cars on their own. It's a great satisfaction, and you'll know the job was done right.

1. Make absolutely sure you remove the gasket from the oil filter. Have heard horror stories of motors blowing up because even seasoned DIYers forgot to check that, doubled-up on the gasket, and motor blew up. What happens is there's oil pressure (until oil runs out), but it doesn't get to the engine. When low oil pressure lights up, it's usually at the same time the engine is throwing rods. Please don't be scared. On the contrary; just checking the gasket is removed, it's almost impossible to screw the job up.
2. Let the oil drain while you watch TV. I personally leave it overnight.
3. Make sure you RECYCLE your oil and filter. It's free in most places.
4. Replace the crush washer, don't tighten the drain bolt too much (use a torque wrench, at least until you develop a feel for it), and tighten the oil filter by hand as hard as you can.

I haven't done this to my Accord (only 300 miles now), but I always like to do it with the car on the floor (it usually gets the most oil out); I could do that even on my low GTO. If you need to lift it, try using ramps instead. If you insist on lifting it, like I like to do myself, find a thread I started how to lift the car with a floor jack so you can lift the entire front or back at once. Good luck man.
JC

I dont find $30 per oil change visits out of line. Especially when you factor in tire rotations and wheel balancing and new air cleaner every 15k. Jesh,, Jiffly lupe charges that amount. The dealer uses a synthitic blend, meaning not 100 percent synthetic. Im not sure what oil brand they use but will find out. Also, at 30,000 they change out transmission and rear diverential fluids, another factor. Im happy with it, it flips my boat regardless what your opinion is.. I have and always will change my oil at 3K and 2500 on my cycels. Maybe not necessay but that's me....

There's no rear differential fluid on an Accord.

It's ok, we all make mistakes.

Now you know, never buy another maintenance package like that again.

http://mybroadband.co.za/photos/data/500/derail2.jpg

$30 for an oil change is not a bad deal. I take my cars in for oil changes every 3K, so if I were to get that deal for $600 it would not be a bad deal for me. If I go to Honda to get the 3k service they charge $39.99. Buying this would save me some money!!

$30 for an oil change is not a bad deal. I take my cars in for oil changes every 3K, so if I were to get that deal for $600 it would not be a bad deal for me. If I go to Honda to get the 3k service they charge $39.99. Buying this would save me some money!!

You can save a lot more money by following the MM instead of changing it every 3k. With the MM system in place, you can easily go 4-5k between oil changes :thmsup:.

Could someone tell jaser where the oil filter is located on his car? I haven't been under an '08 so I just don't know. All I heard is that it was moved which was sorely needed. Help the man if you can please.

how do you check how much oil life you have left? (lx-s)

how do you check how much oil life you have left? (lx-s)

Quickly press the same button you would hold down to reset your tripmeter.

1. Make absolutely sure you remove the gasket from the oil filter. Have heard horror stories of motors blowing up because even seasoned DIYers forgot to check that, doubled-up on the gasket, and motor blew up. What happens is there's oil pressure (until oil runs out), but it doesn't get to the engine. When low oil pressure lights up, it's usually at the same time the engine is throwing rods. Please don't be scared. On the contrary; just checking the gasket is removed, it's almost impossible to screw the job up.


What do you mean by that? To make sure that the gasket from the old filter isn't still up in the oil pan? Shouldn't you leave the rubber gasket on the filter?

Not sure if the doubled up gasket would be a problem IF the old gasket lines up perfectly with the gasket on the new oil filter, however I do agree one should always check to make sure the old gasket didn't somehow come off with the oil filter and stayed on the engine block.

Here's an embarassing personal story from a "seasoned DIYer", me, I've changed shocks, springs, rads, timing belt on DOHC engines 4 times, so the oil filter changes are a piece of cake in comparison.

Well, one of these oil filter gasket stayed on the engine block side when I had the Integra where the oil filter goes horizontally towards the the engine block between the back of the engine and the firewall, the gasket then dropped but got hung up on the threaded neck the oil filter spins onto.

I didn't notice the missing gasket on the old oil filter, and didn't pay attention to where the oil filter spins onto since I've done it so many times I can do the oil change with my eyes closed.

To make matter worse, I had just bought an adaptor that goes over the oil filter and I can then wrench the filter off/on with a 3/8" drive wrench, I was using it to tighten the new oil filter when I noticed something doesn't quite feel right, but I attributed to the filter wrench so I turned the oil filter 3/4 of a turn and figured I was done.

After filling the required amount of oil and checked qty with the dip stick, I started the car and sat in the driveway for about 5 minutes while getting some stuff sorted out before I pulled out of the driveway.

About 300 feet down the street was a sharp turn, I noticed the oil pressure light flickerd on then off as I turned the corner, which obviously wasn't right, I was going to continue going but decided I'd better turn around and figure out what might be the cause, it was a good, and turns out the right decision.

I pulled up into the driveway, opened the door to step out, and right into a big puddle of fresh 5W-30 oil! The oil had been pis$$ing out from the oil filter neck for the 5 mintues the engine was running while the car was in the driveway.

I then looked down the street, sure enough there is this long trail of oil all the way to where I turned around and another trail all the way back to my driveway.

The old gasket hanging on the threaded neck where the oil filter screws onto had introduced a gapping opening where the oil leaked out of, the unusual feeling I noticed while tightening the oil filter using the filter wrench was because the new gasket was compressing against only half of the old gasket.

It was quite a mess to clean up, and I had to go across the street to borrow the neighbour's car to get some more oil, she asked me why and I barked at her "Just give the keys! Please?"

:)

Fortunately the engine was fine since I didn't rev up the engine and found this problem in such a short time and distance.

So the moral of the story is to always visually or at least by feel, check to ensure the old oil filter gasket came off with the old filter!

Lol that is a good story, good thing you noticed the problem quickly enough. I figured that's what he was saying, you shouldn't take the gasket off of the filter right? Just make sure that the gasket from the old one hasn't come off?

Correct, you do not remove the gasket from the new filter, and you do want to make sure the old gasket is NOT still stuck to the oil filter mounting spot on the engine block.

Could someone tell jaser where the oil filter is located on his car? I haven't been under an '08 so I just don't know. All I heard is that it was moved which was sorely needed. Help the man if you can please.

The filter on my '08 LX-P was centered (side to side), right behind what looks to be a skid plate. The plate has a U shaped "chunk" out of the trailing edge. That's where both the filter and the drain plug are. Couldn't be easier to get to. It was much easier than some of the other cars I've worked on (eg: '91 Olds 88, '82 Celebrity). It was incredibly accessible with the front of the car up on ramps.

That said, I think $30 for an oil change is nuts. For $10 of Motorcraft Synth-Blend and <$5 for a filter, you can do it yourself for half that....especially when the filter and drain are so easy to get to.