Maybe there are enough of us 6th genners to support a routine activity & condition thread. Some of us already trade info by PM but thought this a better way of reaching out for sharing info.

The focus: Post your average 6th gen mileage, running condition, standard maintenance status, current/upcoming repairs, routine and break downs
(Mods, if you feel this becomes too redundant of other posts, I certainly understand closing it down.)

So I'll kick it off with general stuff:
99 EX I4 Sedan now at 174k+ miles
Daily Driver averaging 100 mile commute across Houston, primarily Highway
Bone Stock, No mods

General
Motor running well, a bit noisier as the miles rack up but stellar performance still
mpg 28-30 for daily 100 mile commute on 95% Highway
oil No burning/loss between changes at 3-4k miles, running Pennzoil Dino oil
ATF the tranny is slipping slightly. This is a Honda replacement unit from 110k miles ago
Brakes will need work soon
Tires fine with about 35k miles on Bridgestone Turanza LH, wearing perfectly, little degradation so far
Fluids avg condition and operation
A/C is weak, only cooling well at speed, little cooling at idle with midday heat, Condenser fan repair needed/replacement
Exhaust OEM still in place, cat converter throwing CEL code but emmisions not really suffering, eventual catylitic converter replacement required

Recent Activity
Ran a bottle of Techroline gas treatment through 2 tanks ago that seemed to clean some injectors...mpg temporarily dropped while hp seemed to bump up a bit. 2nd tank after back to 29+ mpg

Boosted tire psi to 36 from 31 all the way around. Much sharper reaction on handling (unexpected) and louder/firmer ride (expected). No real boost to mpg so going down to 33 front/31 back to get the ride back

Current areas of concern/Coming Work
Pending Battery Switch: I've thought the battery was going to go as far back as last summer. It finally gave me a really slow crank in midday this week. Jumper box riding along until replacement this next month or so.

Brakes: Bad warping on front, ebrake making noise at back (I use it daily and it wouldn't be completely unreasonable for it to wear out at this point). So, full rotor and pad switch by end of summer coming. Going to go with Brembo Rotors and Akebono Pads this time. Hopefully it will decrease the constant warping encountered.

AC Condenser cooling fan replacement next month or two, it's out

02 EX V6 Sedan, 83K miles
Driven around town, 300 miles/week
No mods whatsoever

General
Window regulator replaced after glass fell in the door ($300 repair)
Water crossover gasket leaking?
Minor rough idle when first started at times
Odometer light burnt out
Clock light repaired
Oil pan gasket seal is broken, needs a new oil pan

Current areas of concern/Coming Work

Brakes:
Transmission shifts harsh when first driven 1-2, 2-3

02 EX V6 Coupe
94K
20 mpg city/ 29-30 mpg Hwy.
No Mods

General
Original Michelin tires replaced with BFGoodrich Traction T/A tires at 75K

Current areas of concern/Coming Work
Timing belt

02 EX V6 Sedan
62K
18-20 mpg city/ 28 mpg Hwy.
Mods-After market alarm (installed by previous owner)

General
Original Michelin tires replaced with Michelin Density tires at 45K
Brakes at 50K
Battery at 35K

Current areas of concern/Coming Work
Front speakers need replaced
6-Disc Cd player won't play or eject Cds showing error message.

2000 EX-V6 Coupe now at 125k+ miles
Daily Driver

Mods
Appearance/Audio:
OEM underspoilers, OEM rear spoiler, OEM foglights, OEM LHD European-code clear headlights, TL-S steering wheel, Formula One Comfort 30 dyed/sputtered metal tint, Alpine iDA-X001 iPod HU w/XM Radio

Suspension/Wheels/Brakes:
Bilstein HD shocks, H&R OE Sport Springs, Neuspeed sway bars, Neuspeed FUSB, TL-S FUSB, Cusco FLTB, OBX RLTB, 215/55/16 tires on OEM wheels, AEM ceramic brake pads, Technafit SS brake lines

Engine/Exhaust/Misc
Unichip piggyback ECU, CL-S exhausts, Comptech headers, Hayden 403 transmission cooler

General
Motor running great.
24 mpg for daily 35-mile round trip commute- 70% City, 30% Highway.
No burning/loss between oil changes at 7.5k miles, running Amsoil synthetic.
Transmission shifts normally, fluid changes every 15k miles.
A/C is cold.
Interior and exterior is in great shape.

Recent Activity
Replaced brake fluid reservoir cap, as the float was sticking- giving a false brake check light after sitting overnight.

Current areas of concern/Coming Work
none

Bowzer, your engine is getting louder due to needing a valve adjustment more than likely. If it's never been done, it would make a huge difference I bet.

Geez you guys make me feel like my 99 EXV6 coupe w/ 168k is the red-headed stepchild of 6g's. At least so far- we'll see who else posts. Maybe we should start a separate thread called "most tired 6gen." I'm the third owner, so the history is a little uncertain but she's been ridden hard and put away wet. I bought it with a number of quirks that I've been fixing over time but one of the problems I'll have to live with is that it was in an accident in 01 and some of the body is starting to show its age and its really not worth fixing. The paint still shines and I do the best I can with what I've got but up close it makes me sad. The car has lived in Michigan, parts of Canada, Vermont and Maine so the poor thing hasn't had any breaks.

USE
About 10k a year, driven usually a couple times a week. Sometimes it will be parked for 2-3 weeks. 80% highway and byway, the rest local and limited city driving. Car is stock except Eclipse 8443 head unit. The factory HU eats CD's. Rolling on Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S, 38psi front, 36 rear.

UNSCHEDULED MX
Here's the cliff notes version since there has been a lot of it:
-3rd A/T (2nd one was very short lived as I was told, almost not worth mentioning)
-New fuel injectors
-Fuel relay
-Fuel pump
-Rebuilt alternator
-Wheel bearings all around
-Drive axles
There are other smaller things I relate to the accident or living in the rust belt.

CURRENT RUNNING CONDITION/UPCOMING MX/ETC
-The engine runs excellent, smooth as could be, starts instantly and I've been getting 29-31mpg during the summer. Goes as low as 26 in the winter. Normally I try to fill with Shell regular. Been lubing with Castrol GTX 5w20 year round with 3-4k OCI depending on my personal oil life indicator. I do hear a little bit of what myself and 2 mechanics think is piston slap in one cylinder. Once the engine is warm it almost completely goes away. There is an oil leak somewhere on the accessory side possibly a pourous block or bolt hole. Haven't been too concerned yet. Doesn't burn oil and the leak is slow enough I don't add anything between changes.
-I'm almost wondering if one of my Brembo blanks I bought 8k ago is defective because it is already out 2-3 thousandths. The other side is perfect and I'm very conscious about braking gently and coasting a lot. This annoys me and I'll get it turned once and if the warpage comes back it's getting chucked.
-I throw a phantom EVAP leak code about twice a year and sometimes can smell fuel near the filler. Slowly working on/putting off this one.
-My A/T has no signs of slippage and shifts very smooth with the exception of the first one or two engagements on a cold day. I did have a little scare with a possible worn differential carrier bearing this winter but haven't been re-scared and the ATF drain magnet comes out pretty clean. Been doing ATF 1x changes about every 5k just to keep tabs. I bought a CL-S 6MT and swap parts because I really dislike autos and only find them useful when eating or if I were to lose my left leg. It's either going in this beast or I'm going to replace it with as near mint condition coupe as I can find because I really took a liking to this car and kinda want one that's perfect. I'm sure I'll get flamed here on DA for doing something like this but I want something unique and I think it will be a fun project, so sometime in the next few months I might update my profile!:D

The focus: Post your average 6th gen mileage, running condition, standard maintenance status, current/upcoming repairs, routine and break downs
(Mods, if you feel this becomes too redundant of other posts, I certainly understand closing it down.)

08/18/08 Update
99 EX I4 Sedan now at 176k+ miles
Daily Driver averaging 100 mile commute across Houston, primarily Highway
Bone Stock, No mods

General
Motor running well, a bit noisier as the miles rack up but stellar performance still
mpg 28-30 for daily 100 mile commute on 95% Highway
oil No burning/loss between changes at 3-4k miles, running Halvoline Dino oil
ATF the tranny is slipping slightly. This is a Honda replacement unit from 110k miles ago
Brakes will need work soon
Tires fine with about 35k miles on Bridgestone Turanza LH, wearing perfectly, little degradation so far
Fluids avg condition and operation
A/C is weak, only cooling well at speed, little cooling at idle with midday heat, Condenser fan repair needed/replacement
Exhaust OEM still in place, cat converter throwing CEL code but emmisions not really suffering, eventual catylitic converter replacement required

Recent Activity
Ran a bottle of Techroline gas treatment through 2 tanks ago that seemed to clean some injectors...mpg temporarily dropped while hp seemed to bump up a bit. 2nd tank after back to 29+ mpg

Boosted tire psi to 36 from 31 all the way around. Much sharper reaction on handling (unexpected) and louder/firmer ride (expected). No real boost to mpg so going down to 33 front/31 back to get the ride back
Back to 33f/31b and rides better with no mileage change

8/18/08 Battery replaced with an Interstate, 550 CCA Rated providing a nice boost on cranking; Far from my first choice but caught it on a great deal at Sam's ($45 installed). Learned I will need to replace Positive Cable Post as it will not fully tighten down...snug but not tight.

Current areas of concern/Coming Work
Brakes: Bad warping on front, ebrake making noise at back (I use it daily and it wouldn't be completely unreasonable for it to wear out at this point). So, full rotor and pad switch by end of summer coming. Going to go with Brembo Rotors and Akebono Pads this time. Hopefully it will decrease the constant warping encountered.

AC Condenser cooling fan replacement next month or two, it's out

Heavy scale from water sprinklers on finish...Vinegar the only thing to cut through. removed most from glass and some from paint. Need a full aggressive rubdown with the vinegar, wash, and paint sealer/wax

02 Special Edition Sedan, silver, I4/auto, 62K miles
Original owner, daily driver, only 11 miles to work each way
Bone stock, never driven hard, maintained since new

General
-Car has been great so far - no rattles, no strange sounds, no leaks
-28mpg in 50/50 city/hwy driving with a light foot
-Oil - no burning/loss between 5K changes, running Motorcraft Synth Blend
-Auto Trans - original trans shifts like new, drain/refill once/year with Honda ATF

Recent Scheduled Maintenance
-Front pads, OEM $49/shipped from College Hills Honda, rotors looked good so I didn't turn or replace them
-Dist cap + rotor, OEM $40/shipped from Majestic Honda
-Plugs, OEM NGK's, $10/ea from O'Reilly, plug wires looked like new so I didn't replace
-Brake fluid flush at dealer, $42
-PS fluid change using turkey baster method and a couple of bottles of $3 Honda fluid.

Unscheduled Maintenance/Issues
-Battery replaced about a year ago with whatever store brand O'Reilly Auto uses
-Clock light replaced about a year ago, bulb was ~$2 at dealer
-Around 40K miles my gas pedal was sticking on first push on cold morning, dealer cleaned throttle body for ~$40.
-Paint still looks good even though I have never waxed it, rarely clean it and it's not garaged. It does seem to chip pretty easy.

Anybody have to replace OEM shocks/struts on their 6thGen? I'm wondering roughly how much life to expect out of them.

Anybody have to replace OEM shocks/struts on their 6thGen? I'm wondering roughly how much life to expect out of them.

Still have the originals on my mine. I had the dealer check them out recently. The tech took it for a test drive and also checked for leaks. Everything was fine and he said they look like new.

I think Fredsvt replaced the ones on his 98 v6 since it was bottoming out badly. The mileage on that one was close to 200k I believe.

At just under 180k, no real change in the ride or handling on mine yet. I have never needed to touch these on any Accords.

Now the tranny...sorry, cajun. Couldn't resist.

Now the tranny...sorry, cajun. Couldn't resist.

Very funny. Next time I travel home to N.O. I'm going to have a voodoo priestess bless my trans.

Updated; 12-2008..

2001 F23A4. ~152K miles.

Second owner, daily driver.
Mostly stock, I occasionally revert to my inner teenager, and test our limits.
-- K and N, OEM type air filter.
-- Head lights, Philip's Ultra ???? (Replaced the continuously failing Sylvania's Ultra ??? (slightly bluesh, 100% white and bright!!!) - Same difference, maybe even brighter - but don't fail every 3 months! First Filip's bulb failed, lasted 7-Months. My head lights, are on, at least 80% of the time. I expect at least, one year...
-- Window vent shades.
-- Back windows tinted, vary dark...
-- HAM Radio's (52, 145, 445 and 915 MHz), and only two antennas (I have 12 antenna's on my 4x4 truck).
-- Changed to the V6 sized tires (205-65H-15). Rides nicer, more responsive, and better grip. Down side, slightly more tire sway, and maybe, 0.5 to 1-MPG, poorer fuel economy (TBD. Compared to the 1-1/2 year old, 195-65H-15, same tires):
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=25291

General:
-Car has been great so far - some rattles, rear door seal, sun roof seal, and others - Only rattles sometimes. No leaks...
-27-30mpg in 30/70 city/hwy driving; With a, not so light foot.
-Oil - 1/2 quart max loss between 5K Dino, now 8K changes, running Synthetic oil, 5W-20. Mobile-1 M104, or AMSOIL filter. The odd thing, now that I'm using Synthetic oil, I think, I'm losing, LESS oil now???
-Auto Trans - changed out at ~101K, I do my own drain/refill 15-20K with Honda ATF. At 145K, I have switched to AMSOIL-ATF.
-Drivers seat, spring back-up broken. Not really. Once I replaced it, was only better, and squeaked. So I used some silicone lube on the hinges, and much better. Not perfect, but OK (lessens learned, How to deactivate the air bag system, and try the easy solution FIRST!).

Recent Scheduled Maintenance:
-At ~100K miles my gas pedal was sticking on first push on cold morning, I cleaned throttle body, and save $300. Lubed the cables and TB, wile I was at it. At 140K, gas pedal sticking again, Cleaned, TB on-car, this time...
-Dist cap + rotor, After market, at ~100K. Repeated at 150K (did not need to do, looked OK).
-PVC, part of my 100K tune up...
-Timing and counter belt, tenchiner, water pump, and coolant drain and refill. At 101K.
-Clock, HVAC, lights were replaced about a less than a year ago.
-AC Filter with Bosch. ~115K.
-Plugs, OEM NGK's Dbl Platinum's, plug wires Magnecore 8.8MM CN-25 - These wires Never have to be replace, ever again!
-Front and Rear pads, GrandSport G6 (Carbon/Ceramic/Matalic), rotors looked ok, so I didn't turn or replace them. ~120K
-Brake fluid flush, with Castrol Synthetic, exceeds DOT-4 (compatible with std brake fluid). ~122K.
-PS fluid change using turkey baster method and 4 of bottles of $3 Honda fluid, 1/2 bottle = one reservoir fill = 8 cycles (was vary dirty (Trany fluid contaminated, and did I already say, dirty).
-Paint still looks good. I have it waxed every ~4 months (I have no shade), I wash it every week, and it's not garaged. It does seem to chip and scratch pretty easy.

Things I wanna do...
--Replace the struts with Bilstein's. What I have now are functional, but a little stiff...
--Convert the mirror's to Canadian (looks like new door controller (switch panel), minor wiring, etc), to Heated mirror's.
--Convert the steering wheel to Stereo control (looks like switch parts, and minor wiring).

Cajon, thanks! used your as myn, changed whatever was different...

OBTW. It would be nice if us 6Gen's, had a place, like the 7-8th Gen's.
-- YES, We're finally have our own space!!!
:notworthy

Bowzer,

I noticed in another thread you mentioned having some maint scheduled. What are you having done to it? Didn't want to highjack the other thread so brought it over to 6th gen central. :thmsup:

Bowzer,

I noticed in another thread you mentioned having some maint scheduled. What are you having done to it? Didn't want to highjack the other thread so brought it over to 6th gen central. :thmsup:

You mean where I mentioned seeing the Prince this weekend? Yep, nothing major yet. I need to get new brakes and rotors all the way around but for this weekend just getting the oil and tranny fluid done. I'm probably too conservative on timing when it comes to executing some of the repairs on this car but with its mileage and age, I tend to do a calculated wait and see before adding more to its investment. I don't think I've crossed a line on abuse yet though!

It continues to run fine otherwise. The recent escapade with my sprinkler in the sun has really done a job on my finish. Gotta carve out some time as a priority and get it cleaned up and better protected. I've only been saying that for months now...I'll take the compromise on timing with our little ones just fine, though.

How about you? All is moving along well I trust with the trusty 6th gen coupe?

Maybe you could get some extra microfiber towels sprayed with WP and let the kids go to town on it while you sit in a lawnchair supervising and admiring the new found shine. Then treat them to pizza if they do a great job. :thmsup: Then all you will have to do is the roof.

Have a rear brake light out in mine that I need to replace. Also the cruise control light is out..the one on the button. Have some scratches that need to be buffed out.

Coming up on some preventative maintenance like atf d/f, plugs, air filter, cabin filter. Thinking of upgrading to some plat ngk plugs.

Last week I had my neighbor start the car for me after it sat the night. I wanted to see if any smoke came out of the tailpipe when started. Nothing came out at all so that was a relief.

Went to the dealer for a free inspection and everything was fine according to the report. I had about 3k on the oil and they thought it looked dirty so they went ahead and changed it out for free which was very nice of them. :thmsup:

Replaced the battery last week and just got the car back today after having the timing belt, water pump, idler pulley, tensioner assembly, hydraulic tensioner, and serpentine belts replaced.

Anybody have to replace OEM shocks/struts on their 6thGen? I'm wondering roughly how much life to expect out of them.

Dealer told me I need new struts soon.

132160 miles.

Replaced the battery last week and just got the car back today after having the timing belt, water pump, idler pulley, tensioner assembly, hydraulic tensioner, and serpentine belts replaced.

What did you pay, and did you do it at Honda?

What did you pay, and did you do it at Honda?

I took it to the same independent shop that we took our Odyssey last spring. They charged about $1000 including an oil change and coolant change.

The focus: Post your average 6th gen mileage, running condition, standard maintenance status, current/upcoming repairs, routine and break downs
(Mods, if you feel this becomes too redundant of other posts, I certainly understand closing it down.)

Update
99 EX I4 Sedan now at 184k+ miles
Daily Driver averaging 100 mile commute across Houston, primarily Highway
Bone Stock, No mods

General
Motor running well, a bit noisier as the miles rack up but stellar performance still
mpg 28-30 for daily 100 mile commute on 95% Highway
oil No burning/loss between changes at 3-4k miles, running Halvoline Dino oil
ATF the tranny is slipping slightly. This is a Honda replacement unit from 110k miles ago
Brakes will need work soon
Tires fine with about 35k miles on Bridgestone Turanza LH, wearing perfectly, little degradation so far
Fluids avg condition and operation
A/C is weak, only cooling well at speed, little cooling at idle with midday heat, Condenser fan repair needed/replacement
Exhaust OEM still in place, cat converter throwing CEL code but emmisions not really suffering, eventual catylitic converter replacement required

Recent Activity
Ran a bottle of Techroline gas treatment through 2 tanks ago that seemed to clean some injectors...mpg temporarily dropped while hp seemed to bump up a bit. 2nd tank after back to 29+ mpg

Boosted tire psi to 36 from 31 all the way around. Much sharper reaction on handling (unexpected) and louder/firmer ride (expected). No real boost to mpg so going down to 33 front/31 back to get the ride back
Back to 33f/31b and rides better with no mileage change

8/18/08 Battery replaced with an Interstate, 550 CCA Rated providing a nice boost on cranking; Far from my first choice but caught it on a great deal at Sam's ($45 installed). Learned I will need to replace Positive Cable Post as it will not fully tighten down...snug but not tight.

Current areas of concern/Coming Work
Brakes: Bad warping on front, ebrake making noise at back (I use it daily and it wouldn't be completely unreasonable for it to wear out at this point). So, full rotor and pad switch by end of summer coming. Going to go with Brembo Rotors and Akebono Pads this time. Hopefully it will decrease the constant warping encountered.

AC Condenser cooling fan replacement next month or two, it's out

Heavy scale from water sprinklers on finish...Vinegar the only thing to cut through. removed most from glass and some from paint. Need a full aggressive rubdown with the vinegar, wash, and paint sealer/wax

Latest:
Positive Battery Cable replaced in late September
Passenger rear window mechanism went out in September...placed in a permanent up position until parts can be ordered and installed
Washed, Vinegar rubdown x2, washed, clay bar, wash, rinse to bring finish back to better clarity
Tires put to 32 psi all the way around again
Tire rotation with oil change at 180k miles
Top Radiator Hose replaced November, pinhole leak

Existing To Do's:
New rotors and pads at all 4 corners still pending
AC condenser fan motor needs replacing
Repair rear passenger window mechanism (replace scratched tint from window binding in door)
CEL still thrown for cat conv
Throttle body needs cleaning as linkage has a slight dead spot on initial travel
Full polish needed (Wet Paint)

Dealer told me I need new struts soon.

132160 miles.

What do they base that opinion on exactly? Mine are original and doing fine...

What do they base that opinion on exactly? Mine are original and doing fine...

I have my car at the dealer right now for the timing belt and a ton of other stuff (see the 105k service thread I made). They were test driving the car and heard/felt a clunking and knocking over rough road surfaces and bumps in the road. It's most felt on roads with dips where the wheel goes up down up down etc. I thought it was the sway bar bushings, but they say the struts are worn.

I'm not going to replace them until I get back to Austin. I'll let New Orleans be the death of the ones on there right now. I'm sure I'll be doing the same suspension makeover to the 96 Accord too, as I hear "crunch" "crunch" over any big dip where there's a lot of suspension travel.

At least I can still say... "I'll never spend as much as I'll spend on a new car to keep my old Honda's running strong." Which is the truth, if I do say so myself. It would take $5-6k to make my 1996 Accord like-new again, it would take $22k to get me into a new Accord.

I still see reason to keep them on the road. ;)

99 EX-L I4 Sedan now at 132k+ miles - Bought used with 127k in Aug of 08 for $5450, $2 grand less than blue book at the time. One owner who took it to the same dealer for service 38 times since 1999.


Daily Driver averaging 1k mile commute within the New Orleans metro area monthly.

No mechanical modifications.

General
Motor Very quiet still, sometimes it hesitates on 'rolling' acceleration, idle has been weird for 5k miles now.
mpg 19-22 for daily 100% city, 25 60 city/40 highway. I have a foot made of lead.
oil Was loosing 'some oil' just had the VTEC solenoid, V.C. gasket, and cam seal replaced. - all of which were leaking. Keeping an eye on the rear main seal and oil pan.
AT shifts so smooth I've missed a few gear changes before. Transmission is now 37k miles old (replaced at 95k free of charge); fluid is still very red, about to change it though.
Brakes shudders when you brake at an exit ramp at freeway speeds, rear pads just replaced. Fluid needs changed.
Tires General Altimax HP tires are only 5k miles old. Love them.
Fluids New Coolant, oil change, and P/S fluid.
A/C works great. Haven't had to use it in awhile.
Exhaust 100% OEM - no rust, two O2 sensors went between 90-100k miles.

Recent Activity
Keeping stock tire pressure for ride comfort.

Just replaced all the belts, cam/crank seals, spark plugs, water pump, air filter, distributor o-ring, rear brake pads, one caliper, battery, and VTEC solenoid at the Honda dealer. My cost = $1157

4 New General Altimax HP Tires = $420

Current areas of concern/Coming Work
Replace front rotors/pads in hopes of eliminating vibration.

Struts

Flush brake fluid and clean filter.

Drain and refill ATF in 3k miles. 40k miles old.

Monitor rear main seal, and oil pan leaks after degreasing engine since I've repaired the 3 upper leaks that may have been dripping down.

I have my car at the dealer right now for the timing belt and a ton of other stuff (see the 105k service thread I made). They were test driving the car and heard/felt a clunking and knocking over rough road surfaces and bumps in the road. It's most felt on roads with dips where the wheel goes up down up down etc. I thought it was the sway bar bushings, but they say the struts are worn.

I'm not going to replace them until I get back to Austin. I'll let New Orleans be the death of the ones on there right now. I'm sure I'll be doing the same suspension makeover to the 96 Accord too, as I hear "crunch" "crunch" over any big dip where there's a lot of suspension travel.

At least I can still say... "I'll never spend as much as I'll spend on a new car to keep my old Honda's running strong." Which is the truth, if I do say so myself. It would take $5-6k to make my 1996 Accord like-new again, it would take $22k to get me into a new Accord.

I still see reason to keep them on the road. ;)

No reason to have to justify keeping these on the road around here. THere's plenty of us in the good fight. (Yes, I may be semi-retiring mine soon but mostly because of some other passenger needs.)

Good idea to wait to get out of N.O. before doing any voluntary suspension repairs.

Good idea to wait to get out of N.O. before doing any voluntary suspension repairs.

That's for sure. You could open a business that just repaired suspensions in N.O. and you'd have cars lined up around the block all day. :yes:

That's for sure. You could open a business that just repaired suspensions in N.O. and you'd have cars lined up around the block all day. :yes:

The funny thing is, when I moved here in Jul of 07, I said if I stayed I would open a suspension business! :lmao:

Hi

1998 accord ex v6 sedan (dad's car)

190k same tranny and engine. bone stock daily commute is 80 miles

Change oil with mobile clean 5k evey 5k with Fram oil filter. no oil problem

(might want to set up a timing belt and water pump since I have not done it yet...any local honda guys wanna do a side job PM me)

Tire have 10k on them as well as both front and rear pads and rotors (done by me)
Tune up was at 125k (done by me, cap rotors plugs and all cleaning)

AC is running nice in the summer

Concern,
My tranny has a hard shift up or down. But the tranny has been doing this from as far back as 3 years ago or i think since before 125k Anyone might know what the problem is no codes or anything. (someone said the clutch release sensor/selinoid)

Otherwise the car is a great commuter car

2000 accord ex 4cyl coupe (brothers car)

205k on the motor has the tranny rebuilt from Honda and still runing fine after 120k

Intake, exhaust, obx wires, IDK plugs, stereo system,

oil change is with the Mobile clean 5k every 5k with fram (buy bulk from walmart :) )

(Another one that needs a timing belt change ;) never did one yet since owned at 42k any local honda tech let me know)

Brakes are good just replace front and rear 10k ago did both cars at the same time

Tires are good (two sets of tires oem from Nov 15 to April 1 now winter is here and then 17's from April til Nov15)

Concerns
Cat throwing a code. the imfamous P0420 might want to get it changed later on but still getting 28 highway

Timing belt its to cold for me to start to do it now i might want to try it on this car but maybe not until the spring unless someone gets me a good quote)


overall good HONDA's

Now for my 08 6-6 coupe......nothing just changed to Mobile one syn with M1 filter (might change it every 10k still debating.

Your prob not too far from Fredsvt. Do a search under his name and read some of his posts. He works at an indy shop but I'd go to him over a dealer any day. He really knows his stuff. :thmsup:

It's been a while, thought I'd pop in and say Hi.

6th Gen central, good idea. It's not our own forum, but it's a start.

Coming up on 200K shortly so I'll be pricing TB/waterpump again soon. Still starts and runs great, but I'm in the market again.

Nice thread .. I'll contribute with my mom's car

98 LX V6 with 28K miles

Runs great, basic maintenance routinely done.
Paint needs some serious TLC so I'll give it a full detail at the first sign of spring next year .. for now I'll hit it with wet paint glaze to get through the winter
Interior is immaculate, except for a broken A/C knob and cigarette smoke odor.
Changed the brakes last year, changed a burned out low-beam bulb last month.
New catshields are coming soon.
Only recurring problem: something is broken under the power seat that causes the front end to lift and pivot backwards .. remedied by replacing or tightening a bolt, but the problem likes to come back every few months.

All in all I love that car .. I learned to drive on it and was happy when my Ford broke down because it bought me time with the Accord. If my mom offered me that car after graduation I would have gladly taken it and invested the money I'm spending on my 08.

Edit: Idle Air Control Valve failed last week .. came out to a $400 repair job

99 EX-L I4 Sedan now at 132k+ miles - Bought used with 127k in Aug of 08 for $5450, $2 grand less than blue book at the time. One owner who took it to the same dealer for service 38 times since 1999.


Daily Driver averaging 1k mile commute within the New Orleans metro area monthly.

No mechanical modifications.

General
Motor Very quiet still, sometimes it hesitates on 'rolling' acceleration, idle has been weird for 5k miles now.
mpg 19-22 for daily 100% city, 25 60 city/40 highway. I have a foot made of lead.
oil Was loosing 'some oil' just had the VTEC solenoid, V.C. gasket, and cam seal replaced. - all of which were leaking. Keeping an eye on the rear main seal and oil pan.
AT shifts so smooth I've missed a few gear changes before. Transmission is now 37k miles old (replaced at 95k free of charge); fluid is still very red, about to change it though.
Brakes shudders when you brake at an exit ramp at freeway speeds, rear pads just replaced. Fluid needs changed.
Tires General Altimax HP tires are only 5k miles old. Love them.
Fluids New Coolant, oil change, and P/S fluid.
A/C works great. Haven't had to use it in awhile.
Exhaust 100% OEM - no rust, two O2 sensors went between 90-100k miles.

Recent Activity
Keeping stock tire pressure for ride comfort.

Just replaced all the belts, cam/crank seals, spark plugs, water pump, air filter, distributor o-ring, rear brake pads, one caliper, battery, and VTEC solenoid at the Honda dealer. My cost = $1157

4 New General Altimax HP Tires = $420

Current areas of concern/Coming Work
Replace front rotors/pads in hopes of eliminating vibration.

Struts

Flush brake fluid and clean filter.

Drain and refill ATF in 3k miles. 40k miles old.

Monitor rear main seal, and oil pan leaks after degreasing engine since I've repaired the 3 upper leaks that may have been dripping down.

Updates!

I'm back in Texas so the car is seeing 90% highway with a 120+ mile commute each day.

137,020 miles. Have driven the car a full 10,000 miles since august 23rd!:banana:

MPG is tons better = 30.25 is my average over 2.5k miles.

New Airfilter
Oil Change
Axle - Replaced due to looseness

Previous Concerns Addressed

Struts - Had them checked out by 3 different techs. None recommend replacing yet.

Leaks - Oil leaks are not problematic. Oil pan has some seepage, but it is normal for the age and no oil is hitting the ground yet. The P/S rack is leaking but some lucas stop leak for power steering systems seems to have cured the problem and it has been leak free for 1k miles. I will be flushing the lucas out with new Honda fluid in another 1k miles. Lucas helps restore old worn seals.

Idle/Hesitation - Diagnosed as a bad motor mount, not an idle issue. Motor mount is to be replaced this week. Hopefully that cures the problem.

ATF drain and refill done along with the axle at 135k miles. Both CV's were orig after 10yrs/135k miles. Very impressive for having held up so long as my other Honda's the boots always tore and let the grease out which destroyed them. My 96 needed both by 70k miles. Improvements have obviously been made! Good job Honda.

Front Brakes - Pads nearing the end of their life. Not squealing just yet. Hoping rotors are able to be resurfaced.

Under 1/4 qt oil usage in 2k miles. Better than before.

Overall - Still very happy with my 1999 Accord and it drives great, especially going down the highway.:thmsup:

Updated; 12-2008..

2001 F23A4. ~152K miles.

Second owner, daily driver.
Mostly stock, I occasionally revert to my inner teenager, and test our limits.
-- K and N, OEM type air filter.
-- Head lights, Philip's Ultra ???? (Replaced the continuously failing Sylvania's Ultra ??? (slightly bluesh, 100% white and bright!!!) - Same difference, maybe even brighter - but don't fail every 3 months! First Filip's bulb failed, lasted 7-Months. My head lights, are on, at least 80% of the time. I expect at least, one year...
-- Window vent shades.
-- Back windows tinted, vary dark...
-- HAM Radio's (52, 145, 445 and 915 MHz), and only two antennas (I have 12 antenna's on my 4x4 truck).
-- Changed to the V6 sized tires (205-65H-15). Rides nicer, more responsive, and better grip. Down side, slightly more tire sway, and maybe, 0.5 to 1-MPG, poorer fuel economy (TBD. Compared to the 1-1/2 year old, 195-65H-15, same tires):
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=25291

General:
-Car has been great so far - some rattles, rear door seal, sun roof seal, and others - Only rattles sometimes. No leaks...
-27-30mpg in 30/70 city/hwy driving; With a, not so light foot.
-Oil - 1/2 quart max loss between 5K Dino, now 8K changes, running Synthetic oil, 5W-20. Mobile-1 M104, or AMSOIL filter. The odd thing, now that I'm using Synthetic oil, I think, I'm losing, LESS oil now???
-Auto Trans - changed out at ~101K, I do my own drain/refill 15-20K with Honda ATF. At 145K, I have switched to AMSOIL-ATF.
-Drivers seat, spring back-up broken. Not really. Once I replaced it, was only better, and squeaked. So I used some silicone lube on the hinges, and much better. Not perfect, but OK (lessens learned, How to deactivate the air bag system, and try the easy solution FIRST!).

Recent Scheduled Maintenance:
-At ~100K miles my gas pedal was sticking on first push on cold morning, I cleaned throttle body, and save $300. Lubed the cables and TB, wile I was at it. At 140K, gas pedal sticking again, Cleaned, TB on-car, this time...
-Dist cap + rotor, After market, at ~100K. Repeated at 150K (did not need to do, looked OK).
-PVC, part of my 100K tune up...
-Timing and counter belt, tenchiner, water pump, and coolant drain and refill. At 101K.
-Clock, HVAC, lights were replaced about a less than a year ago.
-AC Filter with Bosch. ~115K.
-Plugs, OEM NGK's Dbl Platinum's, plug wires Magnecore 8.8MM CN-25 - These wires Never have to be replace, ever again!
-Front and Rear pads, GrandSport G6 (Carbon/Ceramic/Matalic), rotors looked ok, so I didn't turn or replace them. ~120K
-Brake fluid flush, with Castrol Synthetic, exceeds DOT-4 (compatible with std brake fluid). ~122K.
-PS fluid change using turkey baster method and 4 of bottles of $3 Honda fluid, 1/2 bottle = one reservoir fill = 8 cycles (was vary dirty (Trany fluid contaminated, and did I already say, dirty).
-Paint still looks good. I have it waxed every ~4 months (I have no shade), I wash it every week, and it's not garaged. It does seem to chip and scratch pretty easy.

Things I wanna do...
--Replace the struts with Bilstein's. What I have now are functional, but a little stiff...
--Convert the mirror's to Canadian (looks like new door controller (switch panel), minor wiring, etc), to Heated mirror's.
--Convert the steering wheel to Stereo control (looks like switch parts, and minor wiring).

Cajon, thanks! used your as myn, changed whatever was different...

OBTW. It would be nice if us 6Gen's, had a place, like the 7-8th Gen's.
-- YES, We're finally have our own space!!!
:notworthy
Actually you should have gone 205/60-15

just noticed this thread was around

02 coupe v6 121000 miles

pretty much stock except for a few touches
back three windows 5% tint
front35%
12" kicker subwoofer
added blue neon to the inside of footwells and backseat

car is great i love it. it holds its own off the line as i can usually beat whoever rolls up next to me. get a lot of compliments on it even though it is now 7 years old. reliability has to be my favorite thing about this car i get in everyday turn the keys and dont have to think twice. i am very lucky compared to my friends who have their cars in the shop constantly. i drive 80-90mph on the highway and have a great ride quality and handling its very impressive. the gas mileage for a v6 also is pretty nice getting around 23 average and closer to 28/29 when its only on the highway. i baby the car keeping clean and i am very happy with how the paint has held up.

i recently did the timing belt and waterpump so hopefully i wont get an expensive bill anytime soon.

only planned thing in the future to replace are my tires in the spring.

Be sure to change your transmission fluid with HONDA fluid! Every 30k miles. :)

Here's my first post in this thread...

99 EX-L I4 Sedan now at 132k+ miles - Bought used with 127k in Aug of 08 for $5450, $2 grand less than blue book at the time. One owner who took it to the same dealer for service 38 times since 1999.


Daily Driver averaging 1k mile commute within the New Orleans metro area monthly.

No mechanical modifications.

General
Motor Very quiet still, sometimes it hesitates on 'rolling' acceleration, idle has been weird for 5k miles now.
mpg 19-22 for daily 100% city, 25 60 city/40 highway. I have a foot made of lead.
oil Was loosing 'some oil' just had the VTEC solenoid, V.C. gasket, and cam seal replaced. - all of which were leaking. Keeping an eye on the rear main seal and oil pan.
AT shifts so smooth I've missed a few gear changes before. Transmission is now 37k miles old (replaced at 95k free of charge); fluid is still very red, about to change it though.
Brakes shudders when you brake at an exit ramp at freeway speeds, rear pads just replaced. Fluid needs changed.
Tires General Altimax HP tires are only 5k miles old. Love them.
Fluids New Coolant, oil change, and P/S fluid.
A/C works great. Haven't had to use it in awhile.
Exhaust 100% OEM - no rust, two O2 sensors went between 90-100k miles.

Recent Activity
Keeping stock tire pressure for ride comfort.

Just replaced all the belts, cam/crank seals, spark plugs, water pump, air filter, distributor o-ring, rear brake pads, one caliper, battery, and VTEC solenoid at the Honda dealer. My cost = $1157

4 New General Altimax HP Tires = $420

Current areas of concern/Coming Work
Replace front rotors/pads in hopes of eliminating vibration.

Struts

Flush brake fluid and clean filter.

Drain and refill ATF in 3k miles. 40k miles old.

Monitor rear main seal, and oil pan leaks after degreasing engine since I've repaired the 3 upper leaks that may have been dripping down.

And this is my last post...

Updates!

I'm back in Texas so the car is seeing 90% highway with a 120+ mile commute each day.

137,020 miles. Have driven the car a full 10,000 miles since august 23rd!:banana:

MPG is tons better = 30.25 is my average over 2.5k miles.

New Airfilter
Oil Change
Axle - Replaced due to looseness

Previous Concerns Addressed

Struts - Had them checked out by 3 different techs. None recommend replacing yet.

Leaks - Oil leaks are not problematic. Oil pan has some seepage, but it is normal for the age and no oil is hitting the ground yet. The P/S rack is leaking but some lucas stop leak for power steering systems seems to have cured the problem and it has been leak free for 1k miles. I will be flushing the lucas out with new Honda fluid in another 1k miles. Lucas helps restore old worn seals.

Idle/Hesitation - Diagnosed as a bad motor mount, not an idle issue. Motor mount is to be replaced this week. Hopefully that cures the problem.

ATF drain and refill done along with the axle at 135k miles. Both CV's were orig after 10yrs/135k miles. Very impressive for having held up so long as my other Honda's the boots always tore and let the grease out which destroyed them. My 96 needed both by 70k miles. Improvements have obviously been made! Good job Honda.

Front Brakes - Pads nearing the end of their life. Not squealing just yet. Hoping rotors are able to be resurfaced.

Under 1/4 qt oil usage in 2k miles. Better than before.

Overall - Still very happy with my 1999 Accord and it drives great, especially going down the highway.:thmsup:

Currently...

146,300 miles.

Repairs since 137k...

Front pads and rotors.
Positive battery cable
Heater Hose
Distributor Housing, Cap and Rotor ($$$)
Condenser Fan for A/C went out
A/C leaks repaired with new valves (can't remember name) and evacuation and recharge. AMAZING! Difference, wow can't even express how nice it is! Worth the $$$!
VTEC Solenoid resealed. Both seals and O ring.
Broken upper control arm on passenger side - creaking noises. ($$$)
Re cleared yellowed headlamps.

Previous Concerns...
Rear main seal leak was the leaking VTEC solenoid/distributor.
No oil pan gasket leak.
Front motor mount is still in need of replacement.
Rack is still covered in P/S fluid... however the lucas stop leak has kept the fluid level from changing and I have still not had the P/S pump resealed. (not leaking bad.)

New problems...
Starter is going out. Will have to replace this upcoming week, possibly tomorrow.
Sway bar end links and bushings are broken.
Passenger side door locks stick in the cold. 2nd try they work.
Rear trunk lid tail light fills with water in rain or a car wash. Not a clue why. Need to reseal the light.
P0420 code for cat converter illuminated twice. Reset and refueled. Has not come back on in 3k miles almost.

Overall...
Kicking myself for never getting a buyers inspection before buying this car, however I've replaced so much stuff that it makes no sense to dump the car now. We're stuck together until the end at the this point. I still love the drive of the car.

To do...

Change oil in 2k miles.
Change front motor mount.
Change starter.
Replace fan speed light bulb, Rec/AC/Def light bulb, gear shifter light (bulb?), D4 light bulb.
Reseal rear tail light with silicone.
Have engine cleaned so that I can monitor all oil seals that I have had replaced as of late for leakage.

Driven car almost 20k miles since august of 08 when I bought it.

127k-146k...

EDIT: 4/18/09

Starter Changed
Front Motor Mount Changed

Edited... :wave: ^^^

I looked over all the new parts and didn't see where a new oem pcv valve went in. Don't want her drinking more oil than she should. :D

I looked over all the new parts and didn't see where a new oem pcv valve went in. Don't want her drinking more oil than she should. :D

I put one in there the day I got it along with a new air filter. I'm nearing a new engine. :lmao:

I don't think my drinks any oil. I think it just leaked it before. Now will be the true test since I've replaced all my seals that were leaking.

I looked over all the new parts and didn't see where a new oem pcv valve went in. Don't want her drinking more oil than she should. :D

OEM PCV? Did you have a problem with an aftermarket? I've used them (aftermarket) for my last two changes and have no problems...that I know of.

OEM PCV? Did you have a problem with an aftermarket? I've used them (aftermarket) for my last two changes and have no problems...that I know of.

Same. Both my 96 and my 99 and my 86 had aftermarket. My 86 had a metal one! Not a cheapie plastic one.

OEM PCV? Did you have a problem with an aftermarket? I've used them (aftermarket) for my last two changes and have no problems...that I know of.

I haven't had a problem with them myself. But was told by a reliable source that the spring inside the aftermarket ones tend to be thin and more prone to breaking. The aftermarket ones tend to last 30k versus 100k with the oem one. Below is a link with more info.

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?p=285689&highlight=valves#post285689

Currently:
02 Accord V6 with 191K.
What's ever been done:
New water pump, timing belt at 110K. New SRS system not long after that. AT Brake lock switch went out at 145K. AT failed at 130K. Heat shield cracked and was removed around 150K. 3 sets of brake pads. 3 sets of tires. Replaced clock light at 90K. Two front end alignments. Two sets of replacement bulbs in the front.
Current problems/concerns:
Dash lights and gear shift indicator lights going out. Engine not exactly glass smooth, but I've never replaced or cleaned the EGR, PCV or anything else for that matter. Floor mats getting worn out under the gas pedal. Buttons on the steering wheel are fading so that you can't read what's on them. Since wife went back to school, been getting door dings like crazy. Car was in a wreck at 190K, got new front end, side fenders and hood. Before that, the headlight covering was turning yellow and fading quickly. Haven't EVER replaced the power steering fluid, need to do that.
PM regimen:
12K OCI with M1EP 5W-30. AT flush with Z1 every 40K-ish. Ocassional can of fuel injector cleaner every once in a while. Rotate the tires when it "looks" like it needs it. Wash at least once a week, weather permitting.

I haven't had a problem with them myself. But was told by a reliable source that the spring inside the aftermarket ones tend to be thin and more prone to breaking.

Thanks, read the thread and I'm convinced. I just ordered an OEM one from Bernardi Honda b/c my dealer wanted $27.

02 Special Edition Sedan, silver, I4/auto, 62K miles
Original owner, daily driver, only 11 miles to work each way
Bone stock, never driven hard, maintained since new

General
-Car has been great so far - no rattles, no strange sounds, no leaks
-28mpg in 50/50 city/hwy driving with a light foot
-Oil - no burning/loss between 5K changes, running Motorcraft Synth Blend
-Auto Trans - original trans shifts like new, drain/refill once/year with Honda ATF

Recent Scheduled Maintenance
-Front pads, OEM $49/shipped from College Hills Honda, rotors looked good so I didn't turn or replace them
-Dist cap + rotor, OEM $40/shipped from Majestic Honda
-Plugs, OEM NGK's, $10/ea from O'Reilly, plug wires looked like new so I didn't replace
-Brake fluid flush at dealer, $42
-PS fluid change using turkey baster method and a couple of bottles of $3 Honda fluid.

Unscheduled Maintenance/Issues
-Battery replaced about a year ago with whatever store brand O'Reilly Auto uses
-Clock light replaced about a year ago, bulb was ~$2 at dealer
-Around 40K miles my gas pedal was sticking on first push on cold morning, dealer cleaned throttle body for ~$40.
-Paint still looks good even though I have never waxed it, rarely clean it and it's not garaged. It does seem to chip pretty easy.

Update at 68K miles:
-Removed and cleaned throttle body b/c gas pedal was sticking ($6 for TB cleaner + OEM gasket).
-After reading that I shouldn't have cheaped out with an aftermarket PCV valve, installed new OEM ($22/shippped from Bernardi).
-Coming up on 7 years old, so will need timing belt service in the near future. I'll let the dealer handle this one.

2001 Honda Accord EX 2.3l 88,000+ miles

Things done to it:

Changed out broken fog light
Downgraded to the Ipod friendly LX CD/Tape player
Replaced plastic pocket on drivers side of trunk
Got Honda wheel locks

Upcoming maintenance:

Timing belt service (includes water pump) Tomorrow
Oil Change

Additions:
Front cover (getting a Honda Accord OEM cover to protect the front bumper (already scrapped it twice at work)
Getting set of 15 inch LX steel rims to replace the POS EX Aluminum 15 inch rims

Other things to do:
Tighten loose cig lighter/power port(somebody said to tighten up and take wire cutters and crimp the threads closest to the sleeve so as to prevent the vibration of the car from loosening the power port/ cig lighter)

Cheers

L

Use Honda belts, water pump, and coolant for your timing belt service!

Getting set of 15 inch LX steel rims to replace the POS EX Aluminum 15 inch rims

Why go with steelies if you have EX rims?

2001 Honda Accord EX 2.3l 117,000

Just did the belts, water pump thing. Had the plugs, distributer cap replaced as well, plus a valve adjustment and carbon clean out.

Not surprisingly it's running much better, and the first tank is seeing about 2+ miles/gallon more in millage.

Hopefully, it's just fluids brakes and tire for the next 100k.

Use Honda belts, water pump, and coolant for your timing belt service!

I assume you are replying to me? Yes I took the car into Honda and am getting it done with them (all OEM) I like saving money like most folks but not on the timing belt, the $640 that I was given a written estimate is fine with me.

Cheers

L

Why go with steelies if you have EX rims?

Hello,

My EX rims are beat up and I have bad luck in the past with alloy(alum) rim in which they were in great shape and well taken care of but still leaked from the bead (tires were good and rims free of gunk but still leaked)

Plus I can get a new set of these rims for $40 a piece from Honda

Cheers

L

Hey guys,
I'm just getting into posting because I'm about to undergo an engine swap and have been doing a lot of research and forum reading.
General
Pretty much a stock F23A4 motor. I commute this thing to Toledo from Philadelphia for college. About a 1000 mile round trip. On one of those trips my check engine light came on, I noticed a drastic loss of power. It had been burning oil and stuff for a couple months before I left. I didn't have the time or the money to pay attention to it. I stopped after the check engine light came on and the motor was shaking. When I got back to Philly I found out one of my cylinders had lost compression and I was misfiring on 3 cylinders on top of that.

Upcoming Procedures
I'm doing a swap for the same engine thats in it now. A re-manufactured motor from EverDrive.com. I'm hoping it'll go without too much difficulties. I know I'll need to transfer all the bolt-ons like rad, alternator, starter, etc. Gotta swap all sensors to and replace the O2 sensors because those have gone bad due to driving it with misfires and what not. Anyone have experience with this and know of any common issues that arise?

After everything is all said and done I want to put a new air filter in it along with a cold air intake.

I've also gotta get all new brakes and rotors all around. Rotors are warped but pads are fine. But if one gets replaced in this case gotta do the other as well. Bowzer, you doin the brakes yourself?

2000 Accord LX V6, 120K
I'm the second owner, got the car in 04 from my grandfather with 15K and in better shape than when it left the showroom floor.

General
- White paint is wearing off, the car never had clear coat
- Engine runs great, no excess fluid usage of any type, I get about 28 mpg highway
- Transmission runs smoothly and I've never had any issues
- Suspension has no issues
- I'm still on the original exhaust system

Updates
- Installed AEM Cold Air Induction several years ago for grins

Recent Maintenance
- Replaced all rotors and spark plugs at 118K
- All the plugs were clean with no indication of fuel or oil issues

Upcoming maintenance
- Whining coming from the engine, I'm pretty sure it's the alternator and will replace soon
- It's developed a rattle above the passenger's head that I thought was from the sunroof. I've since determined that it's coming from inside the roof lining between the sunroof and the windshield. It's quieter with the interior cover closed so I just keep it that way unless I've got the sunroof open. Eventually I'll get to it.

I drive 110 miles round trip every day and I love this car.