First off, they are out.. Anyone interested here is a link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2008-Honda-Accord-08-Coupe-Drilled-Slotted-Rotors-F-R_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33564QQihZ020QQitemZ3 00251766158QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

FYI - the listing says they are for V6 auto trans. They WILL fit the I4 ex & ex-l. Just not the LX-S. The V6 and I4 fronts are 11.8 in. compared to the LX-S being 11.1 in.

Anyway, they are ridiculously priced. The same seller is selling the same kit for 07's down for a little over $100. Obviously they are priced like this due to the current "monopoly" per say. So, I did some googling and found 1 other cross/slotted kit for the 08. HOWEVER it was listed as 06-08.

http://www.autoaccessoriesgarage.com/cart/prod_page.asp?pid=EBCBGD7087_7&utm_source=google&utm_medium=GoogleProducts&utm_campaign=GoogleProducts


After further research, the size is the same at 11.8 in. Does anyone know if offset or anything else is different? Thinking we can order 07's for much less cost.

...still checking on the rears.

Chime in, whatcha think?

-UPDATE-

...not looking good for the rears. So far it looks like 07 rear disc ar 10.2 in.. compared to our 11.1 rears.

Either way we can save money on fronts and only have to get 08 rears (pending verification that even though both are 11.8 in. fronts, nothing else is different)

Contact R1 Concepts (www.r1concepts) and see if/when they will have cross-drilled/slotted rotors for the '08 Accord.

I've purchased from them multiple times in the past. They are always priced very competitively, and their products are of great quality w/o compromise (ie. use of reputable disc-blanks, precise machining/fabrication, zinc-coating, QC/QA. etc').

I've also used EBC dimpleted/slotted rotors w/o any complaints. It's worth noting though that their supply is a bit flaky, being an International entity (they're U.K. based I recall, in-case you need an emergency single-replacement/etc'). Also, the metallic-bronze finish wears-off rather quickly in areas where the brake-pad makes contact w/ the brake-disc, so a 'spotty'/2-tone appearance results, which at times is rather unsightly. . .

I'm waiting for the day when a reputable company offers rotors that are lighter than OEM for our Accord. It's amazing the difference in the handling/performance of your car.

Had some lightweight rotors ~ 50% lighter for fronts and 15% lighter in rears on my previous S4 from ECS. The handling/acceleration from stop/braking performance were very noticeable.

I'm waiting for the day when a reputable company offers rotors that are lighter than OEM for our Accord. It's amazing the difference in the handling/performance of your car.
lightweight 2-piece brake discs (alloy-rotor & machined-aluminum hat) = $$$

I totally agree w/ the noticeable change in performance, from reducing unsprung-weight via wheels/suspension/brakes! :cool:

lightweight 2-piece brake discs (alloy-rotor & machined-aluminum hat) = $$$


Yeah, it's $$$$, but very worth it IMO :thmsup:

Brembo FTW!!!!

What's the average life time of slotted rotors for everyday driving? Does it make sense to get slotted rotors in the rear since most of the braking power is in the front?

I wouldn't waste my money on any brake 'upgrades' without upgrading the most important part first: CALIPERS. But that' s just me. Later.
JC

waiting for brembos...

how long do honda rotors generally last for? i know my nissan altima rotors were pure shit and only lasted 27k, but thats known with most nissan rotors

Here's some more from a reputable supplier. They have two different styles...

E-Line $199 for set of four drilled and slotted
http://www.r1concepts.com/elinerotors.php

Premium $299 for set of four drilled and slotted
http://www.r1concepts.com/premiumrotors.php

NOTE- The 08's are not listed on the web site. I did talk to customer support and they are available.

I wouldn't waste my money on any brake 'upgrades' without upgrading the most important part first: CALIPERS. But that' s just me. Later.
JC

Do BBKs come with calipers?

First off, they are out.. Anyone interested here is a link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2008-Honda-Accord-08-Coupe-Drilled-Slotted-Rotors-F-R_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33564QQihZ020QQitemZ3 00251766158QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

FYI - the listing says they are for V6 auto trans. They WILL fit the I4 ex & ex-l. Just not the LX-S. The V6 and I4 fronts are 11.8 in. compared to the LX-S being 11.1 in.

Anyway, they are ridiculously priced. The same seller is selling the same kit for 07's down for a little over $100. Obviously they are priced like this due to the current "monopoly" per say. So, I did some googling and found 1 other cross/slotted kit for the 08. HOWEVER it was listed as 06-08.

http://www.autoaccessoriesgarage.com/cart/prod_page.asp?pid=EBCBGD7087_7&utm_source=google&utm_medium=GoogleProducts&utm_campaign=GoogleProducts


After further research, the size is the same at 11.8 in. Does anyone know if offset or anything else is different? Thinking we can order 07's for much less cost.

...still checking on the rears.

Chime in, whatcha think?


Saw that ebay thing about a week ago, if your near an Autobachs store, just get some preordered brembos, theyre i think cross-slotted too, for about i think $320 for all? maybe a bit more, thats what i was told, might be different now O.o

The best bang-for-the-buck in terms of upgrading over OEM brakes would be to swap out the OEM brake-pads for more aggressive sport/track after-market brake-pads which provide more initial 'bite' and better overall braking-dynamics. However, the negatives are possible excess brake-dusting, shortened rotor-life, and chances of squealing... but of-course more-or-less depending on the brand/type of brake-pad selected.

The second best bang-for-the-buck would be max' or even ultra-high performance summer tires. Tires are a crucial factor in terms of overall braking-prowess. However, the negatives are cold-weather traction, tread-life, and costs.

Whereas a BBK (multi-piston monoblock-alloy caliper, 2-piece discs, braided brake-lines, performance-pads) would be beneficial in terms of weight-reduction and braking-potential, the associated costs make it very impractical unless you intend to track/race your car, you have built your motor and/or gone F.I. (ie. SC or turbo), or you have a show-car w/ large after-market rims and need to will the wheel-well (in terms of aesthetics).

Regarding getting Brembo cross-drilled OR slotted rotors, a more cost-effective method is to get www.r1concepts.com to use Brembo rotors (ie. blanks) and machine/fabricate cross-drill & slots/grooves in them. They'll come in their Brembo boxes w/ official certificates/etc'. However, from my personal experience, the main-stream no-name discs are just as good as the Brembo and Bradi blanks. The only difference is the Brembo & Bradi discs were manufactured w/ name-brand/trade-mark in mind.

There are generally 2 main types of the no-name brake discs available, one is very low-quality and w/ sub-par tolerances. The other is comparable to the Brembo & Bradi discs. Make sure your vendor/seller offers the latter. . .

Regarding getting Brembo cross-drilled OR slotted rotors, a more cost-effective method is to get www.r1concepts.com to use Brembo rotors (ie. blanks) and machine/fabricate cross-drill & slots/grooves in them. They'll come in their Brembo boxes w/ official certificates/etc'.

While I agree with the rest of your post, I must protest this point. Crossed drilled/slotted rotors that came from factory are fine. They were die casted from liquid metal that way. Drilling blank rotors will SEVERELY weaken the structure of the rotors and will crack the rotors under heavy use. Last thing you want to do is playing around with critical components such as brakes.

Meaning:
1) Cross-drilled/slotted rotors are overkill. Unless you track the car, blank rotors will do just fine.
2) Don't take blank rotors and drill them :paranoid:
3) If you want the look, spit out $$ and buy the real thing.

Meaning:
1) Cross-drilled/slotted rotors are overkill. Unless you track the car, blank rotors will do just fine.
2) Don't take blank rotors and drill them :paranoid:
3) If you want the look, spit out $$ and buy the real thing.
Well said. It should be noted that just about all the no-name cross-drilled/slotted rotors on the market are actually blanks that have been machined.

I've used dozens of different rotor-types/brands over the years in quite demanding situations. To be totally honest, no particular rotor (ie. cross-drilled, dimpled, slotted, grooved, etc') proved to be more effective in terms of braking-performance over another. Also, cracking/glazing/premature-wear seemed to be quite random as well.

A more aggressive/sport after-market brake-pad, race/track brake-fluid, braided brake-lines, Home-Depot D.I.Y. brake-ducting, and performance-oriented tires will offer much improved braking-performance in demanding situations than the cool-lookin' rotors!

Other than lightweight/2-piece rotors, the cross-drilled/dimpled/slotted/grooved/etc' rotors are merely for looks/aesthetics.

Don't get me wrong, I'm guilty of wantin' to look good too... :D

The reason I began looking into them is once I put on the new 20" wheels from the stock 17's, I noticed the brakes to be "working" quite noticably harder. It's just a noticeable differant sound, and feel to the peddle.

My theory was with the upgraded crossed and slotted it may make it feel more back to stock.

True? ...

My theory was with the upgraded crossed and slotted it may make it feel more back to stock.

True? ...
Nope. There will be no perceivable difference or even performance benefit. Your best bet is to get a more aggressive after-market brake-pad which have a greater initial bite. You can get the cross-drilled/slotted rotors for appearance, that's what I do whenever I get large(r) rims! :D

It is true that lightweighting will cost. Handling does improve, but the weight savings are on the order of about 40-60 lbs/car from lightweight brakes, and that's with the state of the art ceramic composite brakes. Car and Driver ran a very interesting story on fade resistance in modern braking systems in July, I think. They measured fade resistance and stopping power of various cars, among them the Porsche 911 Carrera with and without ceramic composite brakes. The only differences were about $10k on the sticker and 42 lbs on the scale. They didn't test handling, but stopping and fading varied within the error of the measurement.

For most modern cars, stopping power is limited by the adhesion of the tire to the pavement. When that adhesion is lost, the brakes win and ABS kicks in. If I wanted to maximize my braking power, I'd look into 1) tires 2) pads and 3) rotors in that order. If I wanted looks and/or handling, I'd look at lighter weight and slotted/drilled rotors, but they are noisier and wear pads faster without any real benefit with the possible exception of wet stops. Calipers could enter the mix on both performance and looks.

For most modern cars, stopping power is limited by the adhesion of the tire to the pavement. When that adhesion is lost, the brakes win and ABS kicks in. If I wanted to maximize my braking power, I'd look into 1) tires 2) pads and 3) rotors in that order. If I wanted looks and/or handling, I'd look at lighter weight and slotted/drilled rotors, but they are noisier and wear pads faster without any real benefit with the possible exception of wet stops. Calipers could enter the mix on both performance and looks.
QFT! :D