hey guys, been researching about changing the tranny fluid and filter. i was wondering what the best procedure would be. I was planning on doing a multiple drain and fill, to get as much gunk out as possible, w/ a change of the filter.

Basically in what order should i do these steps. drain and fill, change filter, drain and fill, or drain and fill, repeat, then change filter. I hope that makes sense.

On the Accords with the 5 speed automatic tranny's, it is a very simple fluid servicing. You simply drop the drain plug on the transmission let the approx. 3 quarts drain out and add new fluid back in through the dipstick area with a funnel. There is no filter that has to be replaced. There is a factory magnet on the drain plug that catches any small metal built up in the fluid. I love changing the tranny fluid on my car/05 Accord. It is easier than changing the engine oil. I change the fluid with 3 quarts of Honda ATF every 30,000 miles.

On the Accords with the 5 speed automatic tranny's, it is a very simple fluid servicing. You simply drop the drain plug on the transmission let the approx. 3 quarts drain out and add new fluid back in through the dipstick area with a funnel. There is no filter that has to be replaced. There is a factory magnet on the drain plug that catches any small metal built up in the fluid. I love changing the tranny fluid on my car/05 Accord. It is easier than changing the engine oil. I change the fluid with 3 quarts of Honda ATF every 30,000 miles.

There is a filter to change. The 7th gen I4's have a slip stream filter. While the V6's have a changeable element type filter in the tranny housing behind a plate. I think older gens have a none serviceable screen in the tranny.

As for the OP's question. Drain and fill two or three times. Your choice. Then last drain and fill change the filter out. Drive the car all city or suburban between drain and fills for several miles.

I have not heard of a slip stream filter? Where is it and how often does it need to be changed? I will have to check the manual! Thanks for the info.

The I4 filter is straight down under the throttle cables. It looks like a fuel filter. There is a clamp type bracket holding it in place.

I change fluid and filter every 30k miles.

Great! Thanks for the info. I have like 100,750 miles on it now. I will change it out asap. I will then start changing it also when I do the ATF fluid, every 30k. My ride needs to last 300-400k. I drove 430 miles yesterday and got 475 miles to the tank. I was happy. 475 on 14.3 gallons yeeeaaahhhh!!! I wish I could alway get away with not needing the AC. Thanks again for the info. You dont think I have hurt anything by not changing it every 30k do you?

Roadman

Transmissions are strange at best. Then you throw in a Honda AT tranny. LMAO!

They seem do be just fine or failing. Seems to be a fine line between the two.

Do a gental flush, meaning drain and file with a new filter and motor on.

7th gen four cylinder autotranny filter:

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=14699&highlight=transmission+filter

Hello, my transmission shifts smoother than butter! I am going to change out the filter anyway, just to keep it as clean as possible. Thanks Marc04LX for the photos, nice shots, and thanks psyshack for the info. I would of never known about the filter otherwise. Its funny, I even called the dealer today and they said they do not change the filter and that Honda doesn't recommend it. I thought to myself because they want them to brake at a couple hundred thousand miles!!! So we have to replace it!

hey guys, been researching about changing the tranny fluid and filter. i was wondering what the best procedure would be. I was planning on doing a multiple drain and fill, to get as much gunk out as possible, w/ a change of the filter.

Basically in what order should i do these steps. drain and fill, change filter, drain and fill, or drain and fill, repeat, then change filter. I hope that makes sense.

Only done the D&Y and not the filter at 30k. The bolt doesn't need the socket and only the wrench part and fits in perfect and easy to loosen. Remember to take all the gunk off the end of the bolt and wash it it down with some rubbing alcohol for good measure. Don't forget the new crush washer so you will have to make a trip down to the dealer's lube and make a few scarce from them. The filter, I have no clue and probably not a DIY, atleast not for me. It will have to be done at the dealer and so will the D&F that is if I want to continue to be safe on my extended warranty. If I have no issues on my extended warranty record, I get the 1500 I paid for it back from them!

I would say it would probably be drain ATF first and then filter followed by adding the ATF back through the fill bolt up top? Does anyone know if the J30A5 has the bolt you can remove up top like the <2005 year models did or do you have to fill through the dipstick as I did when I just the D&Y without the filter at 30k?

I just did my 06 & 07 where I refilled them through the dipstick. I also changed the ATF filters, the 06 has 40k and the 07 has 10k. Neither filter looked very dirty. I mainly wanted to change these to remove any metal particles that may have gotten in there from break in.

I will wait to at least 50k on the 07 and 80k on the 06 to change them again. I will drain and refill the fluid every 15k or so.

Only done the D&Y and not the filter at 30k. The bolt doesn't need the socket and only the wrench part and fits in perfect and easy to loosen. Remember to take all the gunk off the end of the bolt and wash it it down with some rubbing alcohol for good measure. Don't forget the new crush washer so you will have to make a trip down to the dealer's lube and make a few scarce from them. The filter, I have no clue and probably not a DIY, atleast not for me. It will have to be done at the dealer and so will the D&F that is if I want to continue to be safe on my extended warranty. If I have no issues on my extended warranty record, I get the 1500 I paid for it back from them!

I would say it would probably be drain ATF first and then filter followed by adding the ATF back through the fill bolt up top? Does anyone know if the J30A5 has the bolt you can remove up top like the <2005 year models did or do you have to fill through the dipstick as I did when I just the D&Y without the filter at 30k?