can u drive in the snowy conditions with 19's on? Also how many miles can u get out of 19 tires(approx) ???
thx~

can u drive in the snowy conditions with 19's on? Also how many miles can u get out of 19 tires(approx) ???
thx~

Not a good idea on an Accord. There aren't any good 19" tires that will handle the winter conditions. If you have aftermarket rims, it is a good idea to keep take them off for winter and put on a good set of winter tires on steel rims. The big reason is the salt on the roads will "eat into" the finish of your rims (especially if you have chrome wheels). For winter, I suggest you go with 16" as they are the best option and you will have a plethora of winter tires to choose from.

You should be fine. I found a set of all season tires that are better for winter driving than the oem tires. Plus I got a tip on some protective wax that you can put on your rims for the winter. There is a guy on here that said he's driven on painted finish honda rims for a couple of winters and has had no problems at all.

fusion,

where are you located? reason i ask is, you may be able to get away with an all-season tire versus a dedicated snow tire...

for me personally tho, i always go with snow tires in the winter time. the hills in PA are enough to where if you don't have snow tires, you're going to struggle for grip.

... don't forget about snow-chains (actually rubber/plastic-strips, now)! :D

not a good idea... change the rim/tires... or get a winter beater.... I am buying another winter beater since my old one died (1998 Lumina)... something for under 500 bucks that will last me the cold winter seasons... I will just end up keeping my 08 accord in the garage... away from the salt...

Nope.....you won't find a decent all season tire on a 19. Get a set of winter rims for the car......don't try to go cheap and live with 19s through the winter.

Nope.....you won't find a decent all season tire on a 19. Get a set of winter rims for the car......don't try to go cheap and live with 19s through the winter.

You're wrong. Have you even looked?

Yes I have. I lived in CO for 4 years. A decent 18 inch tire that could go through a Colorado winter is hard to find and super expensive.

I went with a separate set of 17s with some nice winter tires and I still ended up cheaper than a good set of all seasons on the 18s. Remember, the big reason for the 18s was for better handling.

A cheap set of smaller rims wrapped with winter tires is always the better option in snow pack. I would not recommend 19s......especially where you get enough snow that you cannot see where the curbs are.

So...short answer...yes...been there done that and have the T-shirt.

Yes I have. I lived in CO for 4 years. A decent 18 inch tire that could go through a Colorado winter is hard to find and super expensive.

I went with a separate set of 17s with some nice winter tires and I still ended up cheaper than a good set of all seasons on the 18s. Remember, the big reason for the 18s was for better handling.

A cheap set of smaller rims wrapped with winter tires is always the better option in snow pack. I would not recommend 19s......especially where you get enough snow that you cannot see where the curbs are.

So...short answer...yes...been there done that and have the T-shirt.

I agree that smaller rims and tires are a better option, but his question was whether or not he could drive through the winter on 19's. The answer is yes, and you CAN find decent tires if that is truly what you want to do. It is a decision that I have weighed recently myself and because I know people who have done this, I can tell you that it is not impossible.

So believe it or not, others have a T-shirt similar to yours.

I will be darned if there is such thing as a good 19" (or 18") all season tire. You would have very little sidewall and not only would the ride quality be poor, but with inadequate traction, you could realistically spin out of control, hit a curb and bend a rim. There might be some some good 19" winter rims -- if you are putting them on a truck maybe, but not on an Accord.

An all season tire does not have the capabilities of providing the safety necessary to adequately stop in icy or snowy conditions. There have been countless number of studies comparing AS vs winter. For the cost of rims and winter tires, I am of the opinion that a set of steel rims and winter tires is cheap insurance.

"All-Season" = "No-Season", it would be a compromize between summer tires and winter tires.

All-seasons may be good enough for the area the OP is in *IF* there are only the odd snow showers that melt on contact to the ground, however, dedicated winter tires in areas that see significant accumulation of snow will ALWAYS be noticeably better than the No-Season tires.

In any case, can the OP drive on 19" wheels in the winter? Probably.

Is it a smart move? Probably not.

BUT, we don't even know where OP lives!

And lastly, I am not sure at all what 19" tires got to do with how many miles can OP get out of them? :confused: :confused:

I think you also have to consider what the needs of the driver are. The OP is very vague about this. I live 3 miles from my job so I'm not too worried about winter driving. I've lived in Chicago my entire life, have had many cars and I have never chaged to "Winter tires". Hell, I've even driven a rear wheel drive Firebird in the snow. Was it tricky? Yes, but you also have to change the way you drive. Most everyday people that I know don't switch tires every season. You simply drive slower, and more deliberately. If the weather is extremely bad, you just don't go anywhere. You can have winter tires, FWD, AWD and whatever else, but if you don't know how to F-------- drive you're still gonna have problems. I see trucks/cars with all of the aforementioned in dtches every winter.

Again, I agree that driving on 19's in the winter is probably not the best option, I'm just saying that it's not an open and shut case. There are other things that need to be considered. People here in the midwest drive Camaros, Mustangs, G35s, etc. in the winter all the time and they aren't all driving to their doom.

And lastly, I am not sure at all what 19" tires got to do with how many miles can OP get out of them? :confused: :confused:I'm *assuming* that most 19" offerings are sport/performance related, generally not renowned A/S or dedicated winter/seasonal offerings. Also, 19" tires go on obviously 19" wheels which on regularly setup/OEM-tuned suspensions causes negative camber in the tire/wheel spatial orientation/alignment. This then causes extra 'scrub resulting in premature & uneven tread-wear.

And, because 19" tires have to maintain the relatively same sized outer-diameter relative to the OEM setup (as to exhibit speedo' error, VSA dysfunction, and rubbing/etc'), the sidewalls are of a lower-profile & firmer/more-rigid. The compounds often used in such tires are selected for grip/handling-prowess over long(er) tread-life & cold-temp'/frozen-surface capability. The UTQG rating on such tires often are much lower than smaller-diameter, larger-profile All-Season offerings.

Long-story-short... if someone w/ 19" wheels wants a long tread-life out of their tires:

- find something w/ a very high UTGQ rating (relative to other tires from the same company: apples-to-apples!), remember that higher the UTGQ, the less the grip/performance-capability of the tire

- get their vehicle aligned as close to OEM specs' as possible (in particular, the camber)

- get a camber-reducing kit

- keep the tires 'slightly' over-inflated for even tread-wear across both the inner & outer areas of the contact patch

- rotate and/or flip their tires periodically (most 19" offerings will be uni-directional, so total 4-wheel rotation isn't possible w/o dismounting & remounting/rebalancing, only side-specific swapping is the protocol: Front-left <-> Rear-left & Front-right <-> Rear-right; and even this doesn't lengthen tread-life much as one would assume as the same portion of the tire (inner part of the contact-patch) will be getting notable wear even after swapping; hence dismounting & remounting/rebalancing when swapping side-to-side will perhaps nearly double tread-life: Front-left <-> Front-right & Rear-left <-> Rear-right, will give inner/outer parts of the contact patch even wear over time). However, at ~$20-$25/tire to dismount & remount/rebalance, it can get pricey over time (only way to justify it is if the tires are very expensive to begin w/ as-in $200+/each or there's a hookup through someone for the dismount & remount/rebalance. I hope this makes sense, difficult to put into words, but it's logic/rationale' is proven/effective.. . .

I'm *assuming* that most 19" offerings are sport/performance related, generally not renowned A/S or dedicated winter/seasonal offerings. Also, 19" tires go on obviously 19" wheels which on regularly setup/OEM-tuned suspensions causes negative camber in the tire/wheel spatial orientation/alignment. This then causes extra 'scrub resulting in premature & uneven tread-wear.

And, because 19" tires have to maintain the relatively same sized outer-diameter relative to the OEM setup (as to exhibit speedo' error, VSA dysfunction, and rubbing/etc'), the sidewalls are of a lower-profile & firmer/more-rigid. The compounds often used in such tires are selected for grip/handling-prowess over long(er) tread-life & cold-temp'/frozen-surface capability. The UTQG rating on such tires often are much lower than smaller-diameter, larger-profile All-Season offerings.

Long-story-short... if someone w/ 19" wheels wants a long tread-life out of their tires:

- they need to find something w/ a high UTGQ rating

- get their vehicle aligned as close to OEM specs' as possible (in particular, the camber)

- get a camber-reducing kit

- keep the tires 'slightly' over-inflated for even tread-wear across both the inner & outer areas of the contact patch

- rotate and/or flip their tires periodically (most 19" offerings will be uni-direction, so total 4-wheel rotation isn't possible, only side-specific swapping is the protocol: Front-left <-> Rear-left & Front-right <-> Rear-right; and even this doesn't lengthen tread-life much as one would assume as the same portion of the tire (inner part of the contact-patch) will be getting notable wear even after swapping; hence dismounting/remounting when swapping side-to-side will perhaps nearly double tread-life: Front-left <-> Front-right & Rear-left <-> Rear-right, will give inner/outer parts of the contact patch even wear over time) I hope this makes sense, difficult to put into words, but it's logic/rationale' is proven/effective.. . .

Osiris_x11,

I do not disagree with anything you stated, however I highly doubt OP had sufficient comprehension of this subject to understand the nuances of what you described.

Else that question of "how many miles can 19" tires last" would never have been asked.

Besides, everything else being equal, how one drives likely has a far greater impact to the tire wear than the diameter of the rims! :)

Besides, everything else being equal, how one drives likely has a far greater impact to the tire wear than the diameter of the rims! :)True indeed, to a certain degree! But, some tires w/ a low UTGQ rating will wear-out prematurely regardless of the driving-style. If a tire w/ an UTGQ rating of 140 is driven like Mr. Sweetchuck from Police Academy (ie. timidly, conservatively, and very gently), it'll still wear-out a lot sooner than a 280 rated tire that's been throttled day-in/day-out by a Mario Andretti'esque driver. . .

I've done, both the former & the latter dozens of times over the years, all within a single brand/manufacturer.

There are some rubber-compounds on A/S touring tires that literally never ever wears out, but their dry-grip & cornering is pathetic... natural trade-off to anticipate, obviously!

True indeed, to a certain degree! But, some tires w/ a low UTGQ rating will wear-out prematurely regardless of the driving-style. If a tire w/ an UTGQ rating of 140 is driven like Mr. Sweetchuck from Police Academy (ie. timidly, conservatively, and very gently), it'll still wear-out a lot sooner than a 280 rated tire that's been throttled day-in/day-out by a Mario Andretti'esque driver. . .

I've done, both the former & the latter dozens of times over the years, all within a single brand/manufacturer.

There are some rubber-compounds on A/S touring tires that literally never ever wears out, but their dry-grip & cornering is pathetic... natural trade-off to anticipate, obviously!

I will add another degree to tire wear - The vehicle weight and suspension setup as well as Front, rear or AWD. Case in point... My 6th Gen came with Michelin MXV4 factory as well as my 98 Volvo V70 AWD wagon..
6th Gen 48K 5/32 tread left > Volvo 24K 5/32 tread. And the Honda was driven a lot harder than the Volvo.

I see post in the forum about people going 70-80K on OE Michelin's but they never post what the remaining tread is. 2/32" is the legal limit but 4/32" is a much safer time to replace..... Check out this from Tire Rack .. very interesting:yes:http://www.tirerack.com/videos/index.jsp?video=5&quality=medium

I1:wave:

^ Great real-time experience/comparison on actual vehicles you owned/drove yourself, thanks!

I so often see some loco' tread-life feedback/review on Tirerack, it leaves me even more confused than I was to begin w/, whenever researching a particular tire model.

Oh yea, MXV4 was my tire of choice on my past Accord's in the '90s. Got a bit pricey eventually, but there were no negative attributes or compromises... :cool:

I've never purchased any other Michelin tires, as I always found them to be priced significantly higher than adequate substitutes; though they offer a great line-up of tires. Must be a sub-conscious French-bias on my part?!? :D

Years ago I had two sets of Yokohama A008R DOT legal R-compound competition tires(the very original ones) for Solo 2 use, they were rated something like 160 if I recall correctly, I used them as summer tires from late April to end of Oct. (I have dedicated winter tires)

While each set "lasted" two years on the 1990 Integra (2,700 lbs curb weight) even with about a dozen Solo 2 events per season and quite a bit of daily driving, they were obviously not very safe towards the end with minimal tread left, and the cold weather performance at the end of the second fall was darn right scary when the tires have been heat-cycled so many times.

I'm now looking (hoping?) to replace the OEM Michelin tires next summer, these tires were made at end of 2004, so they would be almost 4.5 years old come next summer, I'd like to replace them by then.

Perhaps I should take the Accord out for a couple of end-of-season Solo 2 events just to use them up! :)

Pricey Michelins:yes: That is there marketing program. They contract cheap to manufacturer and stick it to the end user on replacement. I would guesstimate that more than 25% of vehicle owners will replace with OE tires.
If memory serves me correct Michelin is also the only tire manufacturer that will go to Vehicle manufacturers and sell them a complete package(wheel and tire)then the end user really gets slammed. Ford had TRX setup on late 70's early 80's Mustangs. The only tire that fit the wheel was Michelin and now they have the PAX w/Honda.:nuts: O' those sly Frenchmen:lmao:...

Another thing about OE tires..They are usually missing 1/32 to 2/32 of tread compared to tires available to the aftermarket. 1/32" does not seem like much until you figure it is on over a million tires, that's a lot of rubber!

Vehicle manufacturers are aware of this also, they like less tread and even have been known to shave tires to do their test for MPG ratings.(Less rolling resistance).

I1:)

Oh, as a public service announcement: don't ever use Wanli's... :D

(unless you have a death-wish)