00 EX V6, 101K...

I need to replace the belt tensioner pulley becasue the bearing is going out. The area is pretty tight and I can only get in with limited space to operate. Is it as simple as taking the pressure off the tensioner by removing the belt and removing the pulley. BTW available separately from Honda~$60.

The alternator is making a high pitch wining noise audible inside the car and under the hood. I checked out the voltage, still chatging the battery >13V. Is alternator replacement fairly straight forward? I have replaced alternators before just not on this engine. Should I go with the Honda alternator or have the current one rebuilt. I do not care for Autozone and Advance junk lifetime replacements you have to install 3 of to find one that works.

Any words of wisdom? Anyone have repair manual instructions to post?

thanks

You'll have to pull the underbody splash shield off to access the bolts for the tensioner. There is a hidden bolt in the center of the tensioner. The pulley won't come off in chassis without raising the engine excessively and damaging the fragile front (radiator side) mount. BTW, the tensioner pulley bolt is probably left hand thread, I can't recall at the moment.

The alternator is fairly easy, remove the passenger side fan from the rad to give yourself room. Be VERY careful with both mounting bolts as they thread into the aluminum block. Get the torque specs for them and follow them exactly.

The whine, almost like a moan? Is the Delphi alternator's way of telling you a diode has popped inside it. It should be getting really hot.

Make sure your battery isn't acting like a giant resistor and not accepting a charge, it seems that many of these alternators can't take that and pop diodes. You'll know if you install the new alternator and you can't get the charging amperage to reach 105A at the battery. It will be severely reduced.

you have the right idea, get the Honda reman, in the long run it's just easier, rather than finding out it won't work or does work but the check engine light comes on for the ELD or the battery light stays on due to a pos chinese regulator.

You'll have to pull the underbody splash shield off to access the bolts for the tensioner. There is a hidden bolt in the center of the tensioner. The pulley won't come off in chassis without raising the engine excessively and damaging the fragile front (radiator side) mount. BTW, the tensioner pulley bolt is probably left hand thread, I can't recall at the moment.

The above refers to removing the entire tensioner? I'm hopeful to only have to R&R the pulley and not have to remove tensioner to do so.

Alt noise is like a moan w/ a whine. Alternator isn't hot to the touch, no more than anything else in the engine compartment after engine is running.

Fred said it with the pulley being hand thread. I changed mine and I think I loosened the tensioner so I could move the pulley far enough away from the fender to get its bolt out. The dipstick should come out too. Hope you have little hands..

Hope your alternator noise goes away, I'm dealing with rebuild #2 for noise and i'm getting frustrated.

tensioner (x3 bolts) 9 lbft
pulley 28

long alt bolt 33
short atl bolt 16
radiator fan (x3) 7

The above refers to removing the entire tensioner? I'm hopeful to only have to R&R the pulley and not have to remove tensioner to do so.

Alt noise is like a moan w/ a whine. Alternator isn't hot to the touch, no more than anything else in the engine compartment after engine is running.

I'd wait to do the alternator until you replace the pulley, it's noise could be reaching the cabin. Delphi alternators do give off a high pitch whine/whistle when charging.

You will need to either loosen or remove the tensioner from the engine to get the pulley off. There's not enough clearance to get the bolt all the way out.