I drive a 99 4cyl 2Dr, my mechanical abilities so far lie in oil changes, spark plugs and brake replacement (rotors and calipers). Since I am up to 94K in my car, I was wondering if I should get the proper tools and guides and attempt on replacing the timing belt, water pump etc. Or should I let the pros handle it ? Main reason I want to do it because I want to learn and save some money at the same time. ;)
Any noob out there who has successfully done this?

I drive a 99 4cyl 2Dr, my mechanical abilities so far lie in oil changes, spark plugs and brake replacement (rotors and calipers). Since I am up to 94K in my car, I was wondering if I should get the proper tools and guides and attempt on replacing the timing belt, water pump etc. Or should I let the pros handle it ? Main reason I want to do it because I want to learn and save some money at the same time. ;)
Any noob out there who has successfully done this?

I don't see why not, just make sure you have a weekend or so to do it just in case. Also make sure you have as many resources as you can get your hands on, such as:
Service manual, ALL appropriate tools, etc.

Another car in case you need to make a parts run.

If you have friends who have done it before, or better yet if they're certified mechanics bring them along so they can give you tips and an extra hand.

Also, stay organized. There's more bolts and such to keep track of than doing plugs and calipers.

there's a decent vid on youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EmasxgJdXJ8
the guy is kind of rough on things but you get an idea of what to expect

Thanks guys. It doesn't look that hard. I am definitely thinking about it.
Will let you know if I do it or chicken out :D

I've done most of the basic stuff before - fluid changes, plugs/rotor/cap, brakes, etc., but when mine is due I will have no problem paying my dealer $500 for the job.

My neighbor had an "expert" friend do his 01's timing belt in his garage a few months ago. He just had to provide beer and the parts. It didn't work out too well.

My neighbor had an "expert" friend do his 01's timing belt in his garage a few months ago. He just had to provide beer and the parts. It didn't work out too well.

Not a good sign when the friend starts drinking the beer right away at 11am and before starting the job. :D

What you never got drunk before 11am before?! lol

If you're not wasted by 11am the day is!!!!!!!

I wouldn't underestimate the work involved.

I consider myself very handy when it comes to cars, and have done timing belt changes on two of my Integra 3 times, I had the belt miss one tooth on one of the cam shaft the very first time I did it, so basically had to almost re-do the whole thing over again to re-align the belt/cam shaft.

And getting the crankshaft pully nut loosened the very first time is likely going to be a major advanture by itself, you would need a hefty 4-500 ft-lb 1/2" pnuematic impact wrench as a minimum, some people have had problem even when using 750 ft-lb 3/4" drive impact wrench.

It still took me 5 hours the 3rd time around, and I had a good floor jack and 1/2" 500 ft-lb impact wrench.

So think about this very carefully before you get started on your own.

Thanks for all the replies. After watching a video of the guy on youtube changing belts, I decided NOT to try it on my own. If i had a 2nd car, I still would think about it. I still need to work my way up and not mess with my primary vehicle. I think my radiator has a small leak in it, might tackle that instead. :banana:

Replace the entire radiator, it's not worth repairing. Also check the hoses but you probably have a crack along the top. Some people diagnose this as a radiator cap, but they're wrong. These radiators crack.

i dont know if you did it already but the 4cyl is easier than the 6. not to say that either is overly simple

i dont know if you did it already but the 4cyl is easier than the 6. not to say that either is overly simple

He decided not to, I'm changing mine right now though on a v6, it's not too bad if you have enough torque for the crankshaft pulley bolt :P

true im a noob so i wouldnt even attempt that project lol

Me and my brother will be trying this in late march or early April. on the 2000 accord we have. it has over 207k on the car with the same timing belt but it still doesnt look bad. We owned it with 42k so i know it hasnt been changed yet. My dads 98 accord v6 is next once it hits 200k as well. It currently has 196k had that since 62k...(SAME tranny!)

how about the drive belts (Serpentine belts)... mine are due. but i've tried searching many forums and googling till the 30th page, but still can't find a DIY instruction for it.
if it had a tensioner, i don't even think i need any instructions... but it doesn't, so i am worried about how to get the new belt tight in place.
could someone please briefly explain about this? :)



i also saw the video DonutLimo posted earlier.... that guy has a lot of fun and helpful/useful videos too btw :D

it doesn't seem that difficult if you are careful and patient, but i guess i don't want to get into some trouble which i'll panic to find a solution when something goes wrong if i DIY this.
so, i kinda hesitate doing the t-belt on my 01 Accord 4 cyl.

however, i opened the cover recently to check and it still seems to be in a good shape, my car has only 66k miles on it.
i guess i don't need to worry about it for the moment...
but when i tried to unscrew the screw of the cover (the one closer to the front of the car), the part of the lower plastic cover which holds the nut for this screw cracked, and the nut got stuck there... i finally got it out by breaking that piece of plastic apart from the cover... now, only one center screw secures the t-belt cover, but it looks ok
i guess when i have my t-belt replaced, i'll get a brand new lower cover as well.

To All:

Changing a timing belt is NOT for the "faint of heart" and certainly NOT for a novice.

I've changed the timing belt on my '86 several times, and it is so NOT fun! :thumbsdow

Point blank: It is a difficult, time-consuming, and messy job. :puke:

The crank pulley bolt is torqued to about 83 ft./lbs. You will need an impact driver (else a LONG breaker bar, and possibly a "cheater" bar slipped over the breaker bar) to remove it. The engine has to be supported (under the oil pan) to remove the left (driver's side) motor support to get the belt off/on. You will need a floor jack and a couple of jack stands, since the front of the car has to be raised. I typically have to move the belt tensioner back with a large prybar/screwdriver, then lock it down, so I can install the new belt, because of the extremely-tight fit. If you install the belt even ONE tooth off, you are in trouble; with cam timing off, the distributor timing is also wrong. (Cam gear has to be at EXACTLY "12 o'clock," with both side marks aligned parallel with the head, and the crank has to be EXACTLY at TDC, with the white mark on the flywheel aligned with the pointer on the block) Replace the water pump, since you are already "there." To skip replacing the water pump (IMO) is ridiculous. Replace the drive/serpentine belts while you are "there."

If you don't know what you're doing, and/or you don't have the proper tools, I strongly recommend you let someone with the proper training, experience and equipment perform the work. You will save yourself a LOT of grief! :)

Given the unpleasantry involved, along with my deteriorating health, next time I need a belt replaced? I will GLADLY let my Honda dealer do it! :yes:

To All:

A few additional thoughts...about timing belts...specifically, a little technical information regarding the valve configuration - "interference" versus "non-interference" engines.

In an interference engine, the valves and piston share the same air space. They never touch, unless your timing belt breaks or skips, and this is a catastrophic failure in that it requires removing the head and replacing bent/broken valves. In the case the head of the valve breaks completely off, with the piston trying to compress it into the top of the combustion chamber, you WILL hear a LOT of very "expensive noises." Given vertical (inertial) loading forces, the severity of damage tends to increase with higher rpm. Depending upon the nature of the failure event, you may have to replace the cylinder head. Count yourself extremely fortunate if you don't crack a piston and/or bend a connecting rod. Honda's crankshafts, most of which are forged steel, are (Thank God!) not terribly prone to failure.

Conversely, non-interference engines do not risk this contact if the timing belt fails. This is the case in, for example, many Toyota (and various other) engines.

Out there, in the "Hinterlands," are a LOT of timing belts for sale. I will NOT comment on the quality/durability/performance of aftermarket timing belts, as I have ZERO experience with them. Having used ONLY OEM HONDA belts, with 100-percent success/satisfaction, I have NO incentive to use an alternative.

But whatever YOU may decide, please change your timing belt within specified mileage/years in service. To do otherwise, in the case of an "interference" engine? You are a little child, playing with matches....else dynamite!

To All:

A few additional thoughts...about timing belts...specifically, a little technical information regarding the valve configuration - "interference" versus "non-interference" engines.

In an interference engine, the valves and piston share the same air space. They never touch, unless your timing belt breaks or skips, and this is a catastrophic failure in that it requires removing the head and replacing bent/broken valves. In the case the head of the valve breaks completely off, with the piston trying to compress it into the top of the combustion chamber, you WILL hear a LOT of very "expensive noises." Given vertical (inertial) loading forces, the severity of damage tends to increase with higher rpm. Depending upon the nature of the failure event, you may have to replace the cylinder head. Count yourself extremely fortunate if you don't crack a piston and/or bend a connecting rod. Honda's crankshafts, most of which are forged steel, are (Thank God!) not terribly prone to failure.

Conversely, non-interference engines do not risk this contact if the timing belt fails. This is the case in, for example, many Toyota (and various other) engines.

Out there, in the "Hinterlands," are a LOT of timing belts for sale. I will NOT comment on the quality/durability/performance of aftermarket timing belts, as I have ZERO experience with them. Having used ONLY OEM HONDA belts, with 100-percent success/satisfaction, I have NO incentive to use an alternative.

But whatever YOU may decide, please change your timing belt within specified mileage/years in service. To do otherwise, in the case of an "interference" engine? You are a little child, playing with matches....else dynamite!

Since this is important, I post a cliff notes version:

Interference engines such as the J series run the risk of destroying valve train components and possibly damaging pistons if the timing belt breaks

Non-interference engines do not.

Accordriver and All:

MOST (if not all) of Honda's engines are "interference" type.

If YOU don't properly service the timing belt, then YOU deserve EXACTLY what you (eventually) get: A big, EXPENSIVE HEADACHE! :thumbsdow

From the famous John Wayne movie, "True Grit," I always love his wonderful line, as he speaks to a young "cow poke:" "Son, life is hard. And it's even harder...if you are STUPID!" :lmao:

Of ALL the available "teaching mechanisms" and "behavior-modification techniques," PAIN is the most effective. Especially PAIN IN THE POCKET BOOK! PAIN WORKS, every single time, without exception! :yes:

Link for a timing belt replacement for Honda Odyssey with the 3.5 V6 VTEC but pretty is much same for the Accord -

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=42884

I did this in my former 94 accord, my best advice is, watch someone else do it first, and ask many question as you can. After that you sure can do it.