and everything is still fine. I recently did a drain/fill with Maxlife again. I guess I'm effectively ATF-Z1 free now, since my last 5 changes have been Maxlife.
I probably would have continued using Honda's fluid, but it got stupid expensive. I checked my records and I used the Z1 exclusively on the 1st trans (~113K) and for the next 45K on the replacement with 10-15K intervals since I drove it off the lot in Dec 2000. Truth be told, I haven't noticed any change with the Maxlife. I hope the 2nd auto trans is a long-lifer.

Who's using non-Honda fluids in their factory remans and how's it working for you?

Mine went at 94.5k, and the fluid was changed at the interval honda recommends for this car, 90k miles. (I know, it's nuts).

I wonder if that fluid change is what killed it! :lmao:

Anyways, since that, Honda replaced the transmission, and I now have 138.7k miles and its still going strong. The 1-2, 2-1 shift can be a little weird though. Seems to just come and go.

I am using the Honda fluid, and changing at 30k intervals. The 1st change since the trans was replaced looked ok, but not as good as it could've been. I'm far to scared to use anything else but the honda fluid... :dunno:

[QUOTE=I am using the Honda fluid, and changing at 30k intervals. The 1st change since the trans was replaced looked ok, but not as good as it could've been. I'm far to scared to use anything else but the honda fluid... :dunno:[/QUOTE]

That's how I used to feel on my first trans and Honda did help on the replacement, but I've broken free since there's no longer a warranty or customer assistance in my future.

Earlier in this cars past, there were no Z1 "recommended" fluids and knowing this was a weak transmission, it made sense to stay with Honda's fluid. Now there are several ATFs with Z1 verbage (Amsoil, Maxlife, Castrol import, M1, maybe others).

Most of these fluids are less expensive than Honda fluid (at the dealer) and are readily available at retail outlets from $4-$7/qt. The exception is Amsoil, which is a good fluid from all accounts, but must be bought from a distributor
at premium prices.

Since I'm continuing my 10K intervals, I'm going with the $4 Maxlife.

If, however, I were to get a newer Honda with a warranty, I'd probably fall back to the Z1. But at present, I'm a free agent :>)

That's how I used to feel on my first trans and Honda did help on the replacement, but I've broken free since there's no longer a warranty or customer assistance in my future.

Since I'm continuing my 10K intervals, I'm going with the $4 Maxlife.


For now I'm sticking with Honda's ATF. Yup, it costs more, but if Maxlife is $4 we're talking ~$10 extra for one drain/refill.

Glad to hear that Honda helped with your replacement. Did you have to fight since you were past the extended trans warranty? My bro-in-law recently went round and round with Honda Corp and eventually got them to cover most of his 01 Civic's AT replacement.

My Trany was replaced at ~100K Miles, and my reman has now 57K on it.
I changed the fluid every 15K. At the third change (45K), I switched to AMSOIL ATF (I drain/ refiled it, 3 times over the next 5K miles, to insure a grater AMSOIL to Z1 ratio.)
It dose shift a little stiffer, I do notice AT OD Lockup and such, Not objectionably...
I was thinking that now that I've gone synthetic, that I'd extend out to 20K mile...

The new Honda OEM re-manufactured transmition.
-- The trany whine it had, has reduced considerably.
-- The Clunks and bang noises, were reduced by upping the idle (I run at min of 725 RPM, fan, lights, etc off (was at 700 RPM). Although, the noises are still there. Whatever this is, I can reproduce, when the cars on jack stands, if I rotate (by hand) the driver side wheel no noise, except worling sound, On the passengers side, matalic clunking, as you turn the wheel forward then backwards...
-- Delay into reverse and drive (related to above idem).
-- I still dont like how it stays in 3 gear, sometimes way too long. This usually after matting the throttle, on a uphill freeway on ramp, Im told this is normal? It dose eventually ends up in 4th-OD, just take longer than I like. The weird thing is, its intermittent???

only been using Z1 wanted to change to something else but everyone else recommends to stay with OEM.

-- I still dont like how it stays in 3 gear, sometimes way too long. This usually after mating the throttle on a uphill freeway on ramp, Im told this is normal? It dose eventually ends up in 4th-OD, just take longer than I like.

Car will not upshift to OD until coolant is up to a specific temperature, that could be why.

Cajun...No threats were necessary, I just made it clear I expected some assistance and had all my documented Z1 purchase invoices with the dates and mileages that I drained/filled when I visited the local dealer at their request. They knew they had issues, in fact they mailed me a 100k warranty extension letter before I had any problems. Soon there after, because of their odometer issue, they extended everyones warranty to 109K, so I wasn't that far out of the warranty.

Bruce... I guess I got lucky with mine. No banging or other noise issues, no shift issues, no noticable drivability demons. In fact, if I wasn't aware of the change, I'd think it was my original when new.

Hondaracer... are both your '98 and 2000 accords on their original trans?

Im still on the original transmission at 109k with my 2000 SE. No issues other than the drivers side axle seems rather loose at the transmission. Dealer says as long as it doesnt leak, its tight enough?? Maybe it has always been that way since I just recently started checking it when I change engine oil. Honda service manual doesnt have a spec for that so maybe the dealer is right. The sons 98 5-speed axles have practically no play when I checked it. Anybody else routinely shake the inner CV joints to test for carrier bearing wear?

I Bought the 2000 SE at 60k and changed the ATF twice at that time. Since then Ive been changing it about every 10 to 15k with Z1. I will have to compare ATF prices next time its due for a trany oil change.

Car will not upshift to OD until coolant is up to a specific temperature, that could be why.

Dose seem to mater the out-side temperature, as it dose it more cold/ night time. Each time it was at 100% normal op. temp.

....
Bruce... I guess I got lucky with mine. No banging or other noise issues, no shift issues, no noticable drivability demons. In fact, if I wasn't aware of the change, I'd think it was my original when new...


The original one was over all much much quieter. It problem was 1-2 shift slippage (what that word they use, it like a code word. Its what???)

Im still on the original transmission at 109k with my 2000 SE. No issues other than the drivers side axle seems rather loose at the transmission. Dealer says as long as it doesnt leak, its tight enough?? Maybe it has always been that way since I just recently started checking it when I change engine oil. Honda service manual doesnt have a spec for that so maybe the dealer is right. The sons 98 5-speed axles have practically no play when I checked it. Anybody else routinely shake the inner CV joints to test for carrier bearing wear?

I Bought the 2000 SE at 60k and changed the ATF twice at that time. Since then Ive been changing it about every 10 to 15k with Z1. I will have to compare ATF prices next time its due for a trany oil change.

My 99 had loose axles and I replaced them. I felt it was a safety concern.

My 99 had loose axles and I replaced them. I felt it was a safety concern.

You missed the point.

I check the axles in the Ody as well. Both trannies had a tiny bit of play, which I originally mistook as worn bearings. Turns out the new one has a bit too. O well :dunno:

You missed the point.

I check the axles in the Ody as well. Both trannies had a tiny bit of play, which I originally mistook as worn bearings. Turns out the new one has a bit too. O well :dunno:

Mine shook almost an inch and they made quite a bit of noise.

Mine shook almost an inch and they made quite a bit of noise.

If they shook an inch, you would have dumped 7 quarts of ATF-Z1 on I-35. There is no way your diff carrier bearings shook an inch.

If they shook an inch, you would have dumped 7 quarts of ATF-Z1 on I-35. There is no way your diff carrier bearings shook an inch.

The underside of the transmission did have fluid on it; Honda tried to sell me on a rear main (not true - VTEC solenoid leak which seeps straight down to that area). The axle rocked back and fourth far too excessively. I know it did because the new ones don't do it at all.

A2me,

I filled mine with Maxlife when we installed the reman. have been doing 15K w/filter change on trans. Nothing but Max-life.

I put almost 90K on the original with a full load of A/zone DexII + Lube guard friction modifier.

Once I go over 230K and warranty is up on reman I'll switch back to the mix.

I1:)

Once I go over 230K and warranty is up on reman I'll switch back to the mix.

I1:)

Wow, that's some long warranty, I thought the Honda reman warranty was 12/12k?

Was the filter added at the time of replacement, I didn't think our 6th Gens had servicable autotrans filters.

It's nice to know I'm not alone in using Non-Honda fluid in the remans.

My driving has changed radically in the past several years. It used to be I'd start the car, get up to Interstate speeds, set the cruise and go a minimum of 75 miles before stopping. Most times it was ~100 miles between stops, I was averaging 1200-1500 miles a week. Now I average 12-15 miles a week with the occasional interstate jaunt. With all this stop and go city driving, it'll be interesting to see if this setup lasts. I'll probably stay with my 10K drain/fill intervals with Maxlife onwards.

Have any insights to share about the differences in the steering/handling feel between your Hydraulic power steering 6th Gen and your electric power steering 8th Gen?

It's a Jasper reman and not Honda. Jasper warranty is 3yr 75K.

Jasper supplies an in line magnetic filter that they recommend changing after the 1st 500 miles and the supply a hose to take it out after the 500 mile break in period. I changed after the 1st 500 but continue to install a new mag filter every 15K($10). The filter is in the return line. The only problem is I have to pull the battery and tray assembly to change(20min).
The steering is a bit different, the biggest thing I notice is the turning radius, I also think it turns in a lot quicker.

I1:)

There's no reason to use the "mix," inspector. The Lubegard products are fairly old technology and will not perform as well as the new generation of multi-vehicle additives. While your practice may have worked for you in the past, the new multi-vehicle fluids such as Maxlife will do a better job for the same amount of money.

Here's some information on the multi-vehicle additive packs that are on the market. Lubrizol thinks that they will be able to cover more than 30 ATFs on the market with one additive package by 2010. Lubrizol is currently the main proponent of multi-vehicle transmission fluids. They supply the additive package for Amsoil's ATF and very likely, the majority of the "multi-vehicle" ATFs that you see on the market. Here's some info:

http://assets.2tmedia.com/pr/pdfs/17/lubrizol_driveline_news_issue_1_2008.pdf
http://www.lubrizol.com/products/ATF/ATFproductspotlights.asp

It's a Jasper reman and not Honda. Jasper warranty is 3yr 75K.

Jasper supplies an in line magnetic filter that they recommend changing after the 1st 500 miles and the supply a hose to take it out after the 500 mile break in period. I changed after the 1st 500 but continue to install a new mag filter every 15K($10). The filter is in the return line. The only problem is I have to pull the battery and tray assembly to change(20min).
The steering is a bit different, the biggest thing I notice is the turning radius, I also think it turns in a lot quicker.

I1:)

Will you please provide a picture showing which line gets the filter (and its flow direction), or photo copy the installation direction, please?
I was thinking about adding an external cooler and filter...

Will you please provide a picture showing which line gets the filter (and its flow direction), or photo copy the installation direction, please?
I was thinking about adding an external cooler and filter...

Bruce,

The filter needs to be installed in the return line from cooler. I would post a picture but it may confuse since mine is a V6 and trans is on the left side and yours is an I-4 and transmission is on the right.. I'll try and find out more info for you:thmsup:

I1:yes:

Bruce,

Maybe Jasper would be willing to explain the I4 trans configuration and/or provide pics - www.jasperengines.com.

The original one was over all much much quieter. It problem was 1-2 shift slippage (what that word they use, it like a code word. Its what???)


I think the word is flare (or is it flair). I'm not sure of the spelling.

im at 123000 on my original tranny for my 02 v6 auto:paranoid:

no issues yet...knocks on wood