I updated my sound system today and need some serious help.

First of all, I have an EX-L SEDAN WITH Nav...

I took it to the audio shop. They changed all 4 interiors and put a 4 chan amp. They added 2 subs and added a 2 chan amp for that.. and a Kinetik battery for xtra juice. The system sounds great. HOWEVER, when I hit about 10 mph i hear a louuuuud noise coming from what sounds like under the hod but goes away after about 2 seconds...then when I get to about 30 mph the same thing happens..

I unplugged BOTH ANC mics (one in the front by the HFL and the one in the back directly behind the drivers seat) and I thought this would have done the trick based on what I read on this site. I need some serious help ASAP THANKS TO ALL..

btw i kept the stock head unit

I got the issue fixed..brought it back to the guy and they said some RCA's were loose...

but now that thats done I have another slight issue...

Theres a "white noise" that comes out of my speakers, even if the stereo is off. It sounds kind of like if you have your television on max volume but your cable box volume isnt too loud..like a hissing kind of noise...anyone experience that?? the isntall guy said to buy a cleansweep and it would fix the prob..any 1 else w this kind of issie or know a way around it or is cleansweep the way 2 go??

Why is the white noise your problem to solve? You paid good money to have a custom audio system installed, it's the shop that should solve this problem for you.

That said there should be ZERO sound from the speakers when the stereo is off, and I assume you mean the stock head unit is off, which in turn should turn-off the amps, so why would there be ANY sound coming out of the speakers at that point?

Ask this question of the installation shop and see what kind of intelligent answer/excuse they come up with! Sheesh.......

I agree w you 100%. I took it to the shop they told me a JL cleansweep is what my system needs to correct that issue. Im just curious if anyone else has had that issue and if anyone else with cleansweep experience knows if this will do the trick?

in my setup i have the rockford fosgate 360.2 and with that i can balance the white noise that comes out. but then its a game of tuning from that point. takes time but it will work. but i dont have experice with the JL cleansweep. i like the bluetooth programing thru my laptop. makes adjustments easier. i still have issues trying to balance my subs with the full range. or my sub is just too bigg.

I don't have a CleanSweep but have read enough about them to understand & believe its' sole purpose is to balance out the wacky EQ curve from the factory sound system.

So I am very curious how your installation shop can justify to you that the CleanSweep can fix a white noise problem when the amps should have been turned off from lack of audio signal when the head-unit is off?! :paranoid: :dunno:

Major of the owner's of 08's the ex and ex-l's have white noise due the DRL (daytime running lights). The daytime running light fuse is under the driverside fuse box. Try disabling the DRL first.

Major of the owner's of 08's the ex and ex-l's have white noise due the DRL (daytime running lights). The daytime running light fuse is under the driverside fuse box. Try disabling the DRL first.

I cant seem to get to the fuse lol. How do you pop it out?? it seems to have a cover holding it in...

I hope I didnt waste my money on the cleansweep that should be arriving tomorrow lol. Cleansweep would be good to have anyway.

needle nose pliers

damm guys i need help..i pulled the wrong fuse..it was a big thick one that when it popped out the car wouldnt start. but i popped it back in and the car came right back on but not the check engine light is on lol..help!!!!!

sounds like you pulled one of the main fuse. when you turned the ign, half the car didnt work and may have put codes in the ecu. may have to go to honda just to have them clear the codes. i cant remember if auto zone and those kind of auto parts shops still check/clear codes.. its under warranty.

Major of the owner's of 08's the ex and ex-l's have white noise due the DRL (daytime running lights). The daytime running light fuse is under the driverside fuse box. Try disabling the DRL first.

makes sense! after i put down the hand brake on my 08 ex-l navi 5 speed the noise gets louder..... so you guys have been disabling the DRL?

damm guys i need help..i pulled the wrong fuse..it was a big thick one that when it popped out the car wouldnt start. but i popped it back in and the car came right back on but not the check engine light is on lol..help!!!!!


DAMN! dude.............dont touch anything! Take that car in..........before you pull the computer out and your whole car is screwed. :lmao:

Anyhow.........I have a 12" sub and amp powering it.....everything else stock, and everything is silent with the volume down or if the H/U is turned off. So, I have no idea what your issue could be :dunno:

OK!!!! Ready? HERE WE GOOOOOOOO!!!! The reason you have white noise is for several reasons, Number one the amp is turned up too high... turn the gains down.. have the shop level match your voltage inputs on the amps from the processor all your amps are doing is transmitting white noise. Secondly you have premium Audio, Did they use the pre amped balanced lines or did they use the speaker line level? using the speaker line level will create white noise hence, the wrong way to do it.... Also, these wire should be soldered not butt connected.. and the final part is You have NAVI! the amps will always be on or at least should be cause your nav system and bluetooth are always active and you have independent volume control of the bluetooth volume, even when the radio is off.... Hence, when the car is on, so are your amps processors and speakers..... Hope this helps Ifg you have questions as to the wiring scheme look up my wiring post in the audio/electronics secion about audio nav and security wires for the 8th gen :)

for the record you all mention different things regarding the shops mentioning buy a clean sweep HELLO!!!! The shops are in a down economy and need the sales... I dont have the cleansweep I actually have the LC6i from Audio Control, I had the buzz from the drl's killed that fuse and problem solved. now in my previous post I mentioned the rest.... because the amps stay on and the gains are all the way up on the amp its amplifying a less clean lower voltage signal hence noise.... boost your voltage drop down the amp gain save yourself 300.00 and trust me the rest of the way... you wont be disappointed... but DONT FORGET, double check to make sure the shop used the low level balanced lines that come from the head unit, to the amp not the speaker line levels.. the speaker line levels cast dirty signal with lots of noise... OH BTW Bad / shotty/ connections with butt connectores as opposed to soldering will cause white noise issues as well..... :) Hope this helps!

^ so using the low presignal before the factory amp is the way to tap the signals? No issues there im assuming also?

^ so using the low presignal before the factory amp is the way to tap the signals? No issues there im assuming also?

absolutely! and best way!

OK!!!! Ready? HERE WE GOOOOOOOO!!!! The reason you have white noise is for several reasons, Number one the amp is turned up too high... turn the gains down.. have the shop level match your voltage inputs on the amps from the processor all your amps are doing is transmitting white noise. Secondly you have premium Audio, Did they use the pre amped balanced lines or did they use the speaker line level? using the speaker line level will create white noise hence, the wrong way to do it.... Also, these wire should be soldered not butt connected.. and the final part is You have NAVI! the amps will always be on or at least should be cause your nav system and bluetooth are always active and you have independent volume control of the bluetooth volume, even when the radio is off.... Hence, when the car is on, so are your amps processors and speakers..... Hope this helps Ifg you have questions as to the wiring scheme look up my wiring post in the audio/electronics secion about audio nav and security wires for the 8th gen :)

thanks for your help and advice great stuff...

i reset the maintenance light that was on my dashboard and that's gone...but the white noise is still an issue that i will continue to work on..

jamie Jam thanks for your advice and help. I already have my cleensweep in the mail (only paid $200 so it wasnt too bad) and im sure it will only help and wont do any harm. But I will print out everything you said and bring it to my audio guy when I bring him the cleen sweep and hopefully all the noise will be gone. I tried to pull out the fuse for the DRL and couldnt get to it. Was it hard for you to get to as well? I hate being oblivious to mechanics and electronics...but put me in front of a computer and a calculater and Im your man (hence why my work field is finance lol)

jamie Jam thanks for your advice and help. I already have my cleensweep in the mail (only paid $200 so it wasnt too bad) and im sure it will only help and wont do any harm. But I will print out everything you said and bring it to my audio guy when I bring him the cleen sweep and hopefully all the noise will be gone. I tried to pull out the fuse for the DRL and couldnt get to it. Was it hard for you to get to as well? I hate being oblivious to mechanics and electronics...but put me in front of a computer and a calculater and Im your man (hence why my work field is finance lol)

try pulling it with a pair of needle nose pliers or Nippers.. It will come out, but the little stubborn bastards are tinght to the fuse box... IMO It was an assanine design on honda's part with these small a$$ fuses

try pulling it with a pair of needle nose pliers or Nippers.. It will come out, but the little stubborn bastards are tinght to the fuse box... IMO It was an assanine design on honda's part with these small a$$ fuses


i still cant get the top popped off...if i dont get to it ill tell my audio guy to get it out for me and hopefully they canget to it... thanks again for your help. what area are you from?????

absolutely! and best way!


The stock head unit has pre-amp cables running to a seperate amp? I thought the recent generation accords have the power unit built into the head unit....

I currently have a 2003 EX-L V6 w/o navigation. I have a ipod connector that I bought from Crutchfield and paid Best Buy to install. It works and sounds great. I did install aftermarket 6x9s in the rear, Boston Accoustics I think.....made a pretty noticeable (positive) difference.

I am thinking of buying a new 09 Accord, but it looks like the aux input has been changed to a silly little 3.5 mm headphone plug, which is not even close to the sound quality that a direct connection from the bottom plug of an ipod.....

Such noise in an aftermarket system is totally unacceptable. Here's the reason they told you to get the CleanSweep:

They need to go through your install and figure out where the noise is coming from. This takes time, and time = money. By making you pay for the CleanSweep install, they get to fix their mistake at your expense, rather than owning up to it and covering the labor to have it fixed. Your car should never have left their shop with this problem, whether your install was $10 or $10k, period end of story. They also save face. When they fix their sloppy install problem, you'll attribute the "improvement" to the CleanSweep rather than the band-aid they'll put over their initial incompetence. Instead of telling your friends to avoid this shop, you'll tell them what a great job they did and how wonderful the CleanSweep is. The shop owner's wife gets a new Coach handbag at your expense, and everyone's happy.

If, on the other hand, you don't want to finance the shop owner's wife's seventh Coach handbag, you have the right to demand that they fix your system for free. It's their responsibility and they really should be ashamed for letting it leave the shop like this.

No offense Jvin But in the case of the EXL's with premium sound and in some cases the Navi, you are wrong... A cleansweep or lc6 , 7 or the 360, is a must have in these cars.. the way they apparently wired the system for the OP, was post amp which kills any and all acoustic headroom AS WELL AS GOOD CLEAN SIGNAL in the system.. the OEM amp ( EX EXL's Only) have a high Noise ratio which is compensated by the crossover network and a 18-24 DB Slope WHICH IS WHY THERE IN SOME CASES MAY BE ACOUSTICAL GAPS..... I agree it is unacceptable from the factory, but after all its OEM not rocket science for Audiophiles.. In order to process the system appropriately Active summing of the signals is a must... You can use the little Hi Low converters from PAC ( Http://www.pac.com ) but you will seriously lose a large amount of the headroom and to be honest, the signal voltage at 75% volume is approximately .25V AC before the amp in a balanced low voltage level. The processor will at least take the
Lower voltage ( But clean balanced signal, and add to it (up to 4 volts per channel) summ the signal, and allow you to attenuate more signal to the amps, without having to tweak the gains, and end up with the unaceptable floor noise.... The problem remains that most shops havent seen this car yet let alone figured out the inner workings of the wiring... We here have a leg up on it, cause a few of us here have experimented with it and dealt directly with the product engineers from, the audio and honda manufaturers to find a working medium... If the shops took the time to figure things out, sell the right product at the right time, integrate it properly and learn the car ( even IF in the forums) they would produce a better end product.... ( In this case, they are fixing something that should have been done to begin with, its not a band-aid, its a "fix the shortcut, WITH THE PROPER PROCEEDURE ( HINDSIGHT))" (IT Breaks down to they they dont know the car.... )

No offense JamieJam but this just a textbook amp bypass... like any other car with differential balanced outputs like Acuras, BMWs, G35s, etc. The OEM system is FINE. In fact, having factory differential full range outputs with very little eq and outboard crossovers is downright FANTASTIC. I guess we'll just have to agree to disagree there.

I'm not sure why you're even discussing post-amp signals, let alone post-crossover signals, since those should never have been touched in the first place. I feel like you're telling me about the complications of leg and arm surgery, when the patient just needed heart medication in the first place. Operating on all the legs and arms instead, re-routing all the patients veins and arteries, and then "discovering" that this was just a typical case of needing blood pressure medicine, is obviously just grossly negligent and dumb to begin.

We all love our cars, but really, let's face it, this is a HONDA ACCORD not a NASA space shuttle. Even if the shop didn't realize at first that the new generation has Acura type head unit outputs, they either should have known (its just basic due diligence to do research on a vehicle you haven't worked on before -- this info is readily available with a phone call to their favorite dealer or Honda corporate) or they should own up to the fact that it became their responsibility and they need to pay for this valuable lesson on how to do the new Accord, not force OP to pay for it.

In any case, OP, my advice to you would be: it's not too late to tell their shop that they made a mistake in wiring your system the way they did (even if it was just in "hindsight") and that they should bite the bullet and fix it rather than making you pay for it. Print this thread and give it to them: (http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=19987). Have them remove whatever amp(s) they installed and replace them with amp(s) that accept balanced differential inputs. A good low cost example is the JL A-series.

Such noise in an aftermarket system is totally unacceptable. Here's the reason they told you to get the CleanSweep:

They need to go through your install and figure out where the noise is coming from. This takes time, and time = money. By making you pay for the CleanSweep install, they get to fix their mistake at your expense, rather than owning up to it and covering the labor to have it fixed. Your car should never have left their shop with this problem, whether your install was $10 or $10k, period end of story. They also save face. When they fix their sloppy install problem, you'll attribute the "improvement" to the CleanSweep rather than the band-aid they'll put over their initial incompetence. Instead of telling your friends to avoid this shop, you'll tell them what a great job they did and how wonderful the CleanSweep is. The shop owner's wife gets a new Coach handbag at your expense, and everyone's happy.

If, on the other hand, you don't want to finance the shop owner's wife's seventh Coach handbag, you have the right to demand that they fix your system for free. It's their responsibility and they really should be ashamed for letting it leave the shop like this.

They actually told me they could order me the cleansweep or I could find it online for cheaper and they would install for free :dunno:

No offense JamieJam but this just a textbook amp bypass... like any other car with differential balanced outputs like Acuras, BMWs, G35s, etc. The OEM system is FINE. In fact, having factory differential full range outputs with very little eq and outboard crossovers is downright FANTASTIC. I guess we'll just have to agree to disagree there.

I'm not sure why you're even discussing post-amp signals, let alone post-crossover signals, since those should never have been touched in the first place. I feel like you're telling me about the complications of leg and arm surgery, when the patient just needed heart medication in the first place. Operating on all the legs and arms instead, re-routing all the patients veins and arteries, and then "discovering" that this was just a typical case of needing blood pressure medicine, is obviously just grossly negligent and dumb to begin.

We all love our cars, but really, let's face it, this is a HONDA ACCORD not a NASA space shuttle. Even if the shop didn't realize at first that the new generation has Acura type head unit outputs, they either should have known (its just basic due diligence to do research on a vehicle you haven't worked on before -- this info is readily available with a phone call to their favorite dealer or Honda corporate) or they should own up to the fact that it became their responsibility and they need to pay for this valuable lesson on how to do the new Accord, not force OP to pay for it.

In any case, OP, my advice to you would be: it's not too late to tell their shop that they made a mistake in wiring your system the way they did (even if it was just in "hindsight") and that they should bite the bullet and fix it rather than making you pay for it. Print this thread and give it to them: (http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=19987). Have them remove whatever amp(s) they installed and replace them with amp(s) that accept balanced differential inputs. A good low cost example is the JL A-series.

Now, Why are we discussing post amp signals? How do you think they installed the amp without a processor? MAGIC?
There are no RCA's in that car... It needs a processor.. to bring in the low signal 99.9999999% of the time... hence they went post amp.......


CASE IN POINT:



Posts: 43
I got the issue fixed..brought it back to the guy and they said some RCA's were loose...

but now that thats done I have another slight issue...

Theres a "white noise" that comes out of my speakers, even if the stereo is off. It sounds kind of like if you have your television on max volume but your cable box volume isnt too loud..like a hissing kind of noise...anyone experience that?? the isntall guy said to buy a cleansweep and it would fix the prob..any 1 else w this kind of issie or know a way around it or is cleansweep the way 2 go??


You seriously need to re-read what I said in EVERY Post ive written here... Cause you Obviously skimmed it .. I never bashed the OEM Head unit BY ANY MEANS...... Im using mine in my install and to be honest Ive taken the system beyond any point of anyone else in the 8th gen forum ( No offense to those of you who have done the DIY's) Ive Banked over 1000 hours into research design, redesign Integration Install tuning time alignment, retuning, refabrication wiring Dash Pods 3 way dash mounted mids and highs finish work ( A year now in the works) With IASCA Spring Break Nationals 3 weeks away.... Ive had it to the point of having the whole dash out and gone through every nook and cranny.and dremel'd things we really shouldnt dremel..
With that in Mind...
What I was saying to " re explain" is that the Installer should never use the POST AMP wires cause the signal gets dirty and MUDDY cause post amp is UNCLEAN..... Instead The Installer should have used the Balanced low level line Inputs from the OEM head unit that go TO the OEM Amp to eliminate the floor noise... the best way to transfer from the low to the low without hacking wires is to solder to the OEM Low level lines BEFORE the amp and run it to a processor so that you can take the LOW LEVEL signal even it out, boost the LOW LEVEL voltage from the .35 volts that it puts out... and Yes I have put it on a volt meter, Oscillisope and the Audio Control 3055 RTA, and have a good strong clean signal up to 6 volts AC without having to tweak the amp's gain therefore adding floor noise, ( Hiss) and disortion over driven signal..... any shop who ran high level to an amps high level input did themselves and their customer a disservice.... Plain and simple.....

I have spent many hours discussing this issue with the lead engineers from Victory, the three big boys at audio control, Grizz Archer at soundstream, & steve Brown From Alpine, ( Keep in mind that steve Brown was the original Installer for the alpine civic in 2003 ( He knows that chassis better than anyone nand knew exactly where we were ging with this since the civic of late, and the accord seem to face to same ground issues.... . and all are of the same opinion and consensus..... This way hands down is the best way to do it...

Now, Why are we discussing post amp signals? How do you think they installed the amp without a processor? MAGIC?
There are no RCA's in that car... It needs a processor.. to bring in the low signal 99.9999999% of the time... hence they went post amp.......


CASE IN POINT:



Posts: 43
I got the issue fixed..brought it back to the guy and they said some RCA's were loose...

but now that thats done I have another slight issue...

Theres a "white noise" that comes out of my speakers, even if the stereo is off. It sounds kind of like if you have your television on max volume but your cable box volume isnt too loud..like a hissing kind of noise...anyone experience that?? the isntall guy said to buy a cleansweep and it would fix the prob..any 1 else w this kind of issie or know a way around it or is cleansweep the way 2 go??


You seriously need to re-read what I said in EVERY Post ive written here... Cause you Obviously skimmed it .. I never bashed the OEM Head unit BY ANY MEANS...... Im using mine in my install and to be honest Ive taken the system beyond any point of anyone else in the 8th gen forum ( No offense to those of you who have done the DIY's) Ive Banked over 1000 hours into research design, redesign Integration Install tuning time alignment, retuning, refabrication wiring Dash Pods 3 way dash mounted mids and highs finish work ( A year now in the works) With IASCA Spring Break Nationals 3 weeks away.... Ive had it to the point of having the whole dash out and gone through every nook and cranny.and dremel'd things we really shouldnt dremel..
With that in Mind...
What I was saying to " re explain" is that the Installer should never use the POST AMP wires cause the signal gets dirty and MUDDY cause post amp is UNCLEAN..... Instead The Installer should have used the Balanced low level line Inputs from the OEM head unit that go TO the OEM Amp to eliminate the floor noise... the best way to transfer from the low to the low without hacking wires is to solder to the OEM Low level lines BEFORE the amp and run it to a processor so that you can take the LOW LEVEL signal even it out, boost the LOW LEVEL voltage from the .35 volts that it puts out... and Yes I have put it on a volt meter, Oscillisope and the Audio Control 3055 RTA, and have a good strong clean signal up to 6 volts AC without having to tweak the amp's gain therefore adding floor noise, ( Hiss) and disortion over driven signal..... any shop who ran high level to an amps high level input did themselves and their customer a disservice.... Plain and simple.....

I have spent many hours discussing this issue with the lead engineers from Victory, the three big boys at audio control, Grizz Archer at soundstream, & steve Brown From Alpine, ( Keep in mind that steve Brown was the original Installer for the alpine civic in 2003 ( He knows that chassis better than anyone nand knew exactly where we were ging with this since the civic of late, and the accord seem to face to same ground issues.... . and all are of the same opinion and consensus..... This way hands down is the best way to do it...

i am going back to my installer tomorrow with the cleansweep and i printed out everything you said for him to go over and fix my hissing noise..i will let you know how it goes .. i also pulled my DRL fuse and it killed the majority of the white noise but there is still a little hissing that needs some attention..thanks again jamiejam any last words? lol

i am going back to my installer tomorrow with the cleansweep and i printed out everything you said for him to go over and fix my hissing noise..i will let you know how it goes .. i also pulled my DRL fuse and it killed the majority of the white noise but there is still a little hissing that needs some attention..thanks again jamiejam any last words? lol
Make sure they solder the pre amp red and green wires.. NOT BUTT CONNECTORS!!! ( They allow for Noise!!!) once all connected
Tell them to Drop the gains on all of the amps to zero...
turn the factory Head deck up to Vol 36 or 90 % volume
look at the Voltage coming from the OEM harness each pair should dump about .4 to .7 Volts AC after the CS tell them to measure the voltage going to the amp Adjust it as high as they can Preferably around3 to 4 volts for each wire / channel
Connect the amps,leave the amp gains at absolute 0 and play it see what volume you get.. The lower the gains are on the amp the better The higher the clean voltage you can attenuate from the RCA's The better.. now its a matter of testing and tuning to find the right mix for your equipment... Let us Know what happens~! :)
PRAY That they are Competent to resolve the issue! :) LOL:

:notworthy:notworthy:notworthy

im back from the shop...the issue was a bad rca lmao...also i was having issues because the hi-lo were right next to the passanger speaker (magnet0 which caused some noise issues so we moved them...

hey jamie...my tweeters (when i put my system loud) crack sometimes..(they have noise filters installed) should i upgrade?? have you upgraded them???

I guess we had a miscommunication then JamieJam as I think we're both basically saying the same thing. My point was merely that his problems were due to a bad installation, which turned out to be the case. In most of these situations involving an install problem, the shop covers its ass by having the customer shell out more of his hard earned money on unnecessary equipment (such as the CleanSweep, in this case). In other words, they make sure the customer walks out saying to his friends "man these guys are great, my system just needed a CleanSweep and they figured out right away what the problem was" instead of "those guys are idiots, don't go there, they delivered my car to me with an install problem." His car should never have left the shop with that kind of issue. I was simply trying to save this guy from spending another $200 so the shop could prevent looking incompetent.