I've finished all my engine mods, and want to go into the suspension portion of my car, i need help drastically. :]



What's the difference in these two? Is one better than the other??

4 cyl accord coupe 03

What is wrong with the stock sway bar??

you also need help learning how to search. this took me 3 mouse clicks. http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showpost.php?p=70008&postcount=6

then for some reason you can't read. stock is 14mm, go with 17mm if you're changing only the back, 20mm if you're chaning the front sway too

then for some reason you can't read. stock is 14mm, go with 17mm if you're changing only the back, 20mm if you're chaning the front sway too

That's it in a nutshell. (After reading all the threads!)

I just ordered both and waiting delivery. $105 delivered.

Cobra did you read what all it takes to do the front sway. Its a pretty hefty job because you have to drop the front part of the subframe which isnt the easiest thing to do on your garage floor. Also remember you are most likely going to want to get an alignment after doing so because of nmoving your subframe.

Hi,
I did read many of the instructions. It sounds like a little effort ... but do-able. Especially if it's only 2 hours (3 max?). I'm used to firm riding, performance oriented cars, so I don't think the ride will be too much. For the price of the bars, you can't complain!

I think the factory instructions recommended you punch (mark) the location of the subframe before you unbolt it; then you can re-install it to the marks and keep the alignment settings. But I may have the alignment checked just in case.:)

oooh I havent seen the factory instructions just going off what others have said that your prolly going to want to get an alignment just in case. If your comfortable with dropping your sub frame go for it. If you want to be a real peach (lol) you can take pics each step of the way and make a DIY.....that would be awesome.

if you're interested, here is the link on the subframe removal -found on this site.

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=6568

Here is a link to a thread with others' pics! :naughty:
http://www.v6performance.net/forums/showthread.php?t=80747

if you're interested, here is the link on the subframe removal -found on this site.

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=6568

Here is a link to a thread with others' pics! :naughty:
http://www.v6performance.net/forums/showthread.php?t=80747

Im not seeing pics for the front install. Maybe Im just dumb? lol

On that V6P thread it looks like someone put 20mm energy suspension polyurethane bushings

"OK. So that wasn't enough. I had to order the Energy Suspension 20mm Stabilizer Bushings. It's part #9.5124R. I got it through Summit Racing for $26.64 (incl S&H) which includes a new bracket & washers.....and they threw in a hat. You can basically delete these from your Acura order if you go this route:

93402-08016-08 Bolt w/ Washer - Qty: 4
52306-SEP-A11 Bushing (20mm) - Qty: 2
52308-S3M-A00 Holder (aka Bracket) - Qty: 2





I almost flipped my lid at first glance. The new bushings don't appear to be split so I thought I was going to have to disconnect the end links again. They are however split and they include "lube" for her pleasure....I mean so they don't squeak. Had I done this from the start my total cost (not counting extra parts) would have been $67.50.

I'm taking Friday off so I'll put these on and let you know if there's any appreciable difference. I don't drive from the back seat so I really don't care if it's a rough ride back there!"

I thought someone said that it wasnt possibly to use the energy bushings on our sways. Any vet willing to comment on this it would be appreciated.

OK after more research over on V6P I found out you CAN do polyurethane bushings from energy suspension.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Universal-Sway-Bar-Bushings-1-1-16-27mm-95162-9-5162_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33583QQihZ019QQite mZ7967220802QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

These are the bushings for the rear TL-S 20mm sway bar

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Universal-Sway-Bar-Bushings-20mm-95124-9-5124_W0QQitemZ7967220659QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_ Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?_trksid=p4506.m20.l111 6

After doing 3 hours of research each night for the past 2 nights Ive decided that if I can find a shop around me that will do the front for cheap Im going to go with F&R TL-S sway bars with energy suspension polyurethane bushings. From the research Ive done it seems like thats the best way to do it and you get a lot out of it. I will go with a strut tower bar as well even though that just may be overkill I dont rightly care right now because Im going to fall asleep hahah.

Sorry about all these posts Im just really geeking out and trying to find all the info I can....upon more investigation of the ES poly bushings the 27mm bushings are greasable but the 20mm isnt but they do have a 20.5mm greasable bushing.....would this work? I know that its bigger by.5mm but is that really all that bad? Also if its too big is a non greaseable not that right way to go or is it ok. Heres the charts that are on Energy Supensions website:

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/jvsviper/GreaseableChart.jpg



http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/jvsviper/NonGreasableChart.jpg

and after he even more research I found that we cant use the End Links from energy suspension... Ive heard you dont really need them but Im looking to see if you can get them for cheap just in case.

i would not recommend 20mm if you live in the snow-belt area.
Whenever there is snow VSA kicks in every turn even with the snow tires. It could be dangerous if you don't know how to properly handle oversteer (fish-tail).

Yeah Ive heard that but if you go with the TL-S FSB as well you lose that oversteer problem.

Here's how Neuspeed tells you to install their front swaybar.

http://www.neuspeed.com/data/installs/15.20.27.2.pdf