I have a 98 Honda Accord EXL 5spd 4cyl VTEC. The Cat Converter has failed and I need it replaced. I have a 160,000 miles on it. Has anyone else experienced this and if yes, what have you paid to have it done. I am looking at buying the Cat from an Auto parts store and having a local mechanic fix it. Any thoughts?

Cat failure is common on all makes and models now, since they've been monitored. Years ago, as long as the car could get through a tailpipe test, if required was all that was needed.

Putting an aftermarket cat on the car won't shut off the MIL for long, if at all. They don't have the conversion efficiency as the original, and are not required to. They also don't have to last as long.

How much oil does your engine use? Excessive oil use will just kill a new cat.

It does not burn if any excessive oil that I have noted. I bring it in every 5,000 miles and have never noticed excessive burning.

How long is the emissions warranty?

My husband and I just had a similar problem with my 98 Accord at around 160 K. He ordered Catalytic Converter and Bosch sensors from Rockauto.com (they have some great prices on stuff but some things are hit or miss). Our mechanic had to cut the old one off and get new bolts. Total labor was a little over $100 for about 3-4 hrs. work + charging us for the new bolts. Our mechanic is also a close friend & just opened his shop so he prob went a little easy on us even though we told him not to. Nonetheless I wouldn't expect to pay more than $150 if that for labor elsewhere. I can't remember now what the Catalytic Converter and sensors cost but I really don't think we spent more than $250 for parts, labor and shipping.

Just replaced the cat on my civic; not because it failed; put new exhaust on and couldn't separate it from the old one because of the rust. I'm at 155,000 and change. Replacement cat was about $172 and we did the labor ourselves. If you aren't handy with a wrench the local mechanic would be the better call, but the job isn't that hard or time consuming once you get the old parts off.

My husband and I just had a similar problem with my 98 Accord at around 160 K. He ordered Catalytic Converter and Bosch sensors from Rockauto.com (they have some great prices on stuff but some things are hit or miss). Our mechanic had to cut the old one off and get new bolts. Total labor was a little over $100 for about 3-4 hrs. work + charging us for the new bolts. Our mechanic is also a close friend & just opened his shop so he prob went a little easy on us even though we told him not to. Nonetheless I wouldn't expect to pay more than $150 if that for labor elsewhere. I can't remember now what the Catalytic Converter and sensors cost but I really don't think we spent more than $250 for parts, labor and shipping.

My converter heat shields are rotting loose. The dealer says it would be $245 not sure if that is with labor. If it is then I guess the dealer is pretty competitive?

I had a P0420 Problem. It was a two part problem.
Ultimately, it was not a CAT problem. I'd recommend looking past the P0420 code...

Bottom line:
1) Bad "sticky" coolant thermostat. Was only running cold by 2-20F, never ran hot. Replace with OEM ONLY!!! Some aftermarket ones are as cold as 170F? ULEV CAT need extra heat to operate).
2) The REAR 02 sensor, was a little slow, and did not set any codes!!! (passed all std 02 test: WOT snap, look for rich, then lean (Or do I have that backwards?). Pull one spark plug wire, look for rich condition. Replace with OEM 02 sensor only (mail order is cheaper than aftermarket NTK (NGK) or Nippondenso).

TMI:
My systems. Just passed Cali SMOG (tail pipe emissions was good). CEL (MIL) engine light came on, several months later. Stored Code, P0420. Reset code several times, and it just come back. No other codes stored.
1) Found that (live data) LTFT/STFT Long/ Short Term Fuel Trim, was a little rich (was 1-5%). Fuel trim +/-1% normally at idle, or steady state cruising.
2) FWT (ECT), fuel (injection) water temperature sensor, showed the engine was running 150-180F. 182F is normal. Should stay 182F, unless idling or going up a steep hill, or a hot day. Should not go below ~180F (with more than ~50F outside temperature).
Goes up to 206-208F max, on a hot day, AC on.
My original P0420 problem:
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=30223
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=31007&highlight=p0420


Why the CAT is assumed as bad:
1) The factory manual is very clear. "Clear the code, if it comes back, it's a bad CAT." Nothing about any other test or checks...
2) Often the CAT and rear 02, is replace as a assembly, because you will likely damage an old 02, when removing it. Because, it usually is seized (stuck), in the CAT, and the torque necessary to remove it, exceeds the torque spec. of the part, and will damage it. Assuming you can get it out at all.

I hope this helps, good luck! As an ULEV CAT is $800 mail order, and $1500 at the dealer. And is not available aftermarket.

Less likely causes:
Exhaust leak between manifold and (or near) the CAT (or any were in between). Bad front A/F (02) sensor. Bad CAT. Needs a full Tune up. PVC Valve bad. Burning oil (rings bad), or too much gas (bad Injectors).