All,

I need to replace the timing belt on my 2001, 4 cylinder Accord within the next 5,000 miles and I'm wondering what brand of belt to use? Should I stay with the Honda brand or would one like Goodyear be as good? Thanks in advance!!

Don't go aftermarket, get a Honda belt.
I've had no luck with aftermarket timing belts, they don't seem to last. Just like aftermarket accessory belts don't seem to last as long as any oem belt, save Hyundai.

If you get a Honda one, you're either going to get a Japanese belt or a Gates sourced belt made for Honda, with a Honda name on it. You really can't specify which one to get.

I'm unconvinced that the Gates "Honda" belts last as long, they do seem to go slack in service. However, the Gates timing belt you'd get from the parts store will be dry rotted and cracked in less than 4 years, guaranteed.

All the balancer belts I've gotten have all been from Japan.

You should also be doing a water pump, oem only, Honda Type 2 coolant. I'd be doing a valve adjustment if it's never been done. you'll need a cam cover gasket and spark plug tube seals.

From things I've read, Goodyear (Gatorback?) belts are noisy. No personal experience however.

From things I've read, Goodyear (Gatorback?) belts are noisy. No personal experience however.

I used one in a timing belt job I did on my friends 90' Accord. No noiser than stock...

yes, the Gatorback accessory belts make a loud whine due to their goofy groove design.

Timing belts are another matter, they can only be made the same was what's on the car, looks wise.

Honda only...

I used one in a timing belt job I did on my friends 90' Accord. No noiser than stock...

To be safe, I'd inspect that timing belt at half the recommended replacement interval to make sure it's not cracked or loose.

It is interesting that when a company like Gates makes a belt for an OEM vs their over the counter belts, the OEM belt is of much higher quality.

Texasaccord:

Respective to timing belt replacement, my views concur perfectly with FredSVT. Pay strict attention to his advice; Fred is speaking the "Gospel Truth." GO with a genuine (OEM) Honda belt. Saves you (potential) headaches and heartaches, and you'll sleep a lot better at night.

Replace the water pump and all of the accessory drive belts, and have the valves adjusted; with that portion of the engine disassembled, you're already "there."

Unlike (say, for example) a Toyota engine, most Hondas do not "free wheel" when the timing belt breaks. If you "cheap out," what you will eventually hear is a LOT of very "expensive noises." One more time, Sir: Pay STRICT attention to what Fred said!

Also, per what FredSVT says, stick with OEM Honda/Acura engine coolant. Prestone, amongst other brands, is notorious for eating radiators (and worse) heater cores. Replacing a heater core in most Hondas is an onerous (read EXPENSIVE) chore.

Do NOT mix different brands of engine coolant! Given differences in their chemical composition, you are potentially setting yourself up for a disaster! (I MAY decide to get into this subject later, in a separate forum post.)

While we are on the topic of "OEM" hardware, I also recommend the use of genuine Honda brake parts. While aftermarket hardware tempts you with "lifetime warranty," they are far noisier, do NOT (IMO) provide equivalent stopping power, and do NOT last as long as Honda's rotors and brake pads/shoes.

While I've replaced the front pads and rotors on my '86 Accord Hatchback LX-i several times, along with rear brake shoes (twice), would you believe that the rear drums are ORIGINAL....and have NEVER been turned? That is REAL QUALITY, Baby!!!

Robert Warden
BSME

**********************************
1986 Accord Hatchback, LX-i, 5-speed, Misty Beige Metallic over Silky Red (216K miles)
VIN: 1HGBA5348GA167648
2002 Accord Coupe, LX, V6, Satin Silver over Charcoal (81K miles)
VIN: 1HGCG224X2A011655

I'm not sure, but I think ya'll are saying go with the Honda parts for everthing. Makes sense to me. I hadn't heard the comment about the Prestone anti-freeze before. I'll remember that. Thanks for all the help and info, I really do appreciate it!!! :banana:

Don't forget the cabin filter if it hasn't been done lately. Also not a bad idea changing out the atf fluid. Three drain and fills with honda atf. An oem pcv valve is another easy item to replace also.

While we are on the topic of "OEM" hardware, I also recommend the use of genuine Honda brake parts. While aftermarket hardware tempts you with "lifetime warranty," they are far noisier, do NOT (IMO) provide equivalent stopping power, and do NOT last as long as Honda's rotors and brake pads/shoes.>>>>>

That may have been true in the past... but I'm not sure that I still believe it to be the case today. I just had to replace the pads on my 07 Accord (they were pretty darned worn down) at 42k mostly highway miles. My 06 Accord was in need of rear pads when I traded it in with 33k miles. I didn't have to replace the original pads on my 96 Accord until after 80,000 miles... and the car was 8 years old. Furthermore, the OEM rotors on both my 06 and 07 Accords were garbage. Both cars developed a severe vibration/shake when the brakes were applied (especially when traveling at highway speeds) as early as 15,000 miles. I had the rotors resurfaced on the 07 via goodwill from Honda, but the problem returned 10k miles later. I now have 'cheap' rotors and pads on there from Pep Boys and so far, so good. The 96 Accord still has the original rotors with over 230,000 miles. I'm usually always pro-OEM Honda, but I've never had as much hassle with brakes as I have with the Honda brakes on not one, but two 7th gen Accords.

As far as brakes go, the Honda pads are alright if you were happy with the car stops and how long they lasted. They are usually very quiet. That's what I use at work. We've began trying the newer Napa pads, for the life of me I can't remember the name of them now. Senior moment I guess. Time will tell. One thing I can say, they do cost MORE than Honda or Toyota OEM.

If you're looking for consistent high speed braking and brakes that won't fade, the Honda pads aren't really the greatest.

I had Hawks, they were ok, but cold performance was awful.

I've put on EBC Yellows, what an impressive set of pads so far. I'm not so concerned with really long life or dusting. Consistency and the ability to stop the car repeatedly from 80+ mph is. They were noisy as heck on bed in, but have been silent ever since.

SatinSilver:

Excellent points made, respective to changing the cabin filters and ATF. Changing the cabin filters is (to me, anyway) a chore. Doing this myself, shortly after I purchased my '02, I found where some ham-fisted idiot broke off the left side "screw boss" on the dash, where the glovebox mounts. At least they left me with the part...which I reattached with fiberglass (epoxy) resin.

FredSVT and I have had this lengthy, ongoing discussion about Honda auto trannies. This Spring, I will install a CompTech (P/N: 560-025) tranny cooler, an inline filter, and switch to Red Line D4 ATF. FredSVT recommends Red Line ATF, and I am going with his endorsement. Furthermore, I will change ATF at least once a year, regardless of mileage driven. (BTW, I use (pure synthetic) Mobil One 5W-20 in the motor, year round.) Changing fluids/filters is simple, cheap insurance, in my book!

ItsaHonda:

You make a very fair point about aftermarket brake hardware. Example Given: AutoZone sells their "C-Max" (ceramic) brake pads for about half of what Honda charges for OEM. Their "C-Max" pads have a lifetime warranty, to the original purchaser. And apparently, from what I hear, while they MIGHT be a bit noisier, they DO work extremely well.

But let's also bear in mind that it depends on what kind of driving you do (City vs. Highway), and that you can get a defective "anything," be it OEM Honda or some aftermarket supplier.

I just so happen to be extremely satisfied with, and loyal to, OEM Honda components. I have no incentive to change any component and/or system process, unless and until I am CONVINCED of a bona fide, superior result.

(Thank GOD I no longer have to contend with damned cost accountants breathing down my neck. They would likely direct me to a local salvage yard...insisting that I incorporate "used" parts on my vehicles. To them, the "bottom line" RULES!)

"Cheaping out," IMO, in critical safety areas (such as brakes, tires, and lights), is "penny wise" but "pound foolish." How much is your machine and your A-Double-S worth to YOU? Your spouse and children? And the property and lives of others? With no Calculus required, it's a "no brainer" within my own mind. Being a retired (manufacturing) engineer, aside from component/system functionality, SAFETY has always been my abiding concern.

I recently replaced (all) the pads on my '02, and had the (front) rotors turned. OEM Honda pads cost me $93.74, out the door. Brake labor was $40.00, done "on the side," by one of my "Buds" at my local Honda dealer. HOW can you beat that?


Robert Warden
BSME

**********************************
1986 Accord Hatchback, LX-i, 5-speed, Misty Beige Metallic over Silky Red (216K miles)
VIN: 1HGBA5348GA167648
2002 Accord Coupe, LX, V6, Satin Silver over Charcoal (81K miles)
VIN: 1HGCG224X2A011655

(BTW, I use (pure synthetic) Mobil One 5W-20 in the motor, year round.)

Another good oil option is MotorCraft Syn-blend 5w20 at about half the price of M1. Esp if you have a shorter oci like 3-5k. If your oci is closer to 10k then the Mobil 1 is prob better. Many people on DA use it and it has good uoa's. Fredsvt uses it in his fleet and he knows alot about oil.