Does anyone know of a good write up for replacing motor mounts on a 2000 V6 Accord? Took my car into the dealer the other day and they told me all three were broken.. They wanted 1200 to do it.. I would like to see what exactly is involved ans maybe do it myself.

id be interested as well because it may be my motor mount not the power steering after all. anyone know ball park prices for them

If you're just talking parts prices for the mounts - http://www.tasauto.com/Product/Browse.aspx?d=1207&p=1.

So...looks like joel's dealer wants ~$900 in labor for 3 mounts? I don't know what's involved, but that sounds pretty freakin high.

The mounts aren't that hard to change. I did the front and side on mine in under an hour. You will need a jack or a block of wood under the engine to raise it up a little so the mounts can be removed. I am not sure about the rear one but it should be the same as the others.

thankfully its not looking like motor mount yet they are still trying to determine what went wrong with my powersteering

The mounts aren't that hard to change. I did the front and side on mine in under an hour. You will need a jack or a block of wood under the engine to raise it up a little so the mounts can be removed. I am not sure about the rear one but it should be the same as the others.

The trans is dropped to do the rear one, I'm rather positive.

My dealer is charging 140 to do my front mount. I will need to do the rear soon, I imagine.

how you able to tell/notice the mounts fail?

Engine vibration. Or have someone put the car in gear or press the gas and you will see the engine try to climb out of there.

Thanks...
If a person look at mounts directly, is he able to tell the mounts are bad?

I am in the same boat. Visually, all the mounts look fine. Car vibrates in 1st and reverse and shifting has gotten rougher, also vibrates at idle more with A/C on. I ordered a front mount that should be here anyday now.

With my wife's Cavalier several years ago, the rear collapsed and it was very obvious. Accords are harder to tell.

Thanks...
If a person look at mounts directly, is he able to tell the mounts are bad?

I think on mine there are rubber boots over them so it was harder to tell. I was able to move the boot to the side (with the engine cold) and I saw the cracked rubber. The front one is liquid filled so I saw the mess.

A performance shop here in town told me that they never see the rear mounts go bad. That the front hydraulic one goes out and as a result the side one goes out too. I just got the front and rear mounts for my 2003 EX V6 and will be doing the job on Monday. 03LXV6 had better be right that all I need is a block of wood, a jack and less than an hours worth of time..... I read elsewhere that radiator fans had to come out and all kinds of stuff.

I changed all three engine mounts and the two transaxle mounts with factory Honda parts from the local dealer. The Columbia SC dealership knocked off a good bit and this was the first time I had been there. They have been looking out for me ever since.
The transaxle mounts looked OK but while I had the car jacked up I just did them all. I still had fluid in both front and back mounts but the diaphragm was torn on both. It took me three hours to do the job with hand tools. Most of the time was spent on mounting hardware and trying to figure out how to get my hand behind the engine to line up the rear mount. I have the V6 supplement manual and one from Haynes (use the Haynes). Straight forward job just don’t forget to hook the pneumatic line to the bottom of the mounts before you bolt them down, I know.

So the front and side one by the timing belt should be a piece of cake, right? Any pneumatic lines?

Compared to the back, yes.

Just one line under the front mount. The side is just rubber with a metal sleeve. Use the jack with a piece of wood under the engine to line them up.

To All:

I need to be taking copious notes on this thread. The V6 cars (such as my own) tend to be problematic, respective to motor/tranny mount failures.

So the front and side one by the timing belt should be a piece of cake, right? Any pneumatic lines?

The front does have the vacuum line. I don't remember reading that the rear have a vacuum line. The side one by the timing belt doesn't.

You may need to remove the radiator fans to get more clearance. I have small hands so I was able to get the mount out by bending the coolant hose out of the way.

For the side mount, I needed a long breaker bar for 2 of the bolts because they are long and had some rust on the thread.

You should also check the upper mount on the transmission side. I had to remove the intake to check it. The battery and battery plate will need to go if you do change it.