Hello all. First post here.

I took delivery on a 2009 Accord EX-L Sedan last week. It's the polished metal color. I totaled my 2006 Ford F150 and decided to get something more sensible since I'm coming up on my third wedding anniversary.

Anyway... love this car so far. It's a really nice ride. I've owned all sorts of other cars from an 84 Monte Carlo SS (and also a 2001 SS) to a 2004 VW GTI to the pickup. The Accord is a decent ride.

I know there's discussion of rattles in this car. I have one somewhere. I can hear it out of my left ear and it sort of sounds like a light rattle, like a loose part somewhere. I almost want to say it's on the B Pillar. I thought the adjustable seat belt mount might be the culprit, but I can't confirm it.

I went around the other night and banged on the B pillar, driver's side passenger door panel and parcel shelf and I seemed to get rid of the rattle temporarily, although that could just be coincidence. Who knows.

The rattle occurs just driving down the freeway - not a rough road, but a super slab interstate. It also occurs when listening to talk radio and hearing a male voice boom just a bit. So, there's got to be something loose somewhere.

Any ideas? It's not the glove box for sure. It really does sound like something on the driver's side.

Tempted to have my wife drive and let me hunt around in the car to see if I can isolate it.

My brakes squeal with 400 miles on the car already.

And yesterday I left the sunroof in the vent position to dissipate the Florida heat. When I got in the car to go home the sunroof wouldn't go back down. I had to hit the close button about 15 times before it actually closed. It's like it got stuck on something somehow.

Anyone have clues to the rattle and sunroof issue?

Brakes I can solve.

My headlights dim too, but I'm gonna drop an Optima yellow in there anyway and I figure that'll take care of that.

Thanks crew!

~ Big D

Hello all. First post here.

I took delivery on a 2009 Accord EX-L Sedan last week. It's the polished metal color. I totaled my 2006 Ford F150 and decided to get something more sensible since I'm coming up on my third wedding anniversary.

Anyway... love this car so far. It's a really nice ride. I've owned all sorts of other cars from an 84 Monte Carlo SS (and also a 2001 SS) to a 2004 VW GTI to the pickup. The Accord is a decent ride.

I know there's discussion of rattles in this car. I have one somewhere. I can hear it out of my left ear and it sort of sounds like a light rattle, like a loose part somewhere. I almost want to say it's on the B Pillar. I thought the adjustable seat belt mount might be the culprit, but I can't confirm it.

I went around the other night and banged on the B pillar, driver's side passenger door panel and parcel shelf and I seemed to get rid of the rattle temporarily, although that could just be coincidence. Who knows.

The rattle occurs just driving down the freeway - not a rough road, but a super slab interstate. It also occurs when listening to talk radio and hearing a male voice boom just a bit. So, there's got to be something loose somewhere.

Any ideas? It's not the glove box for sure. It really does sound like something on the driver's side.

Tempted to have my wife drive and let me hunt around in the car to see if I can isolate it.

My brakes squeal with 400 miles on the car already.

And yesterday I left the sunroof in the vent position to dissipate the Florida heat. When I got in the car to go home the sunroof wouldn't go back down. I had to hit the close button about 15 times before it actually closed. It's like it got stuck on something somehow.

Anyone have clues to the rattle and sunroof issue?

Brakes I can solve.

My headlights dim too, but I'm gonna drop an Optima yellow in there anyway and I figure that'll take care of that.

Thanks crew!

~ Big D

the only issue i have with the sunroof is the rattle, with sunroof closed but shade open.

i have some tiny rattles sometimes.. cant quite pin point it.. it started around 1200 miles.. sometimes the rear shelf rattles but most often it doesnt.. i do have a rattle coming from the B pillar somewhere too . its very faint and does sound like somethign is just loose. .
No sunroof issues with mine.. Also my brakes squeal too.. started at 1000 miles.. SIGH..

volts are volts a bigger battery will not help.

volts are volts a bigger battery will not help.

Very aware of your issues and buy back.

You may well be right, but my experience with many other vehicles often proves that wrong, regardless of the physics involved.

I suspect an aftermarket alternator is likely in my future anyway based on the accessories I plan to add. If the battery doesn't do it, the alternator will.

I've got a nice custom electrical auto shop that will build whatever I need. I'm not much concerned with the flickering headlights at this point. I can isolate that issue easily. I can't isolate the rattle without a whole lot of work.

i have the same rattle. it is from where the seatbelt shoulder holder meets the B pillar. I put dynamat on the bolt, and the rattle stopped, but since the holder moves everytime you pull on the seatbelt, the dynamat has lost its effectivness and the rattle returned. i dont know a permanent fix, but would love to hear from someone else who solved the rattle problem.

Very aware of your issues and buy back.

You may well be right, but my experience with many other vehicles often proves that wrong, regardless of the physics involved.

I suspect an aftermarket alternator is likely in my future anyway based on the accessories I plan to add. If the battery doesn't do it, the alternator will.

I've got a nice custom electrical auto shop that will build whatever I need. I'm not much concerned with the flickering headlights at this point. I can isolate that issue easily. I can't isolate the rattle without a whole lot of work.

Now you may be the first person on to something..an aftermarket alternator..that could just solve the problem..just be careful you dont void the warranty...if it does fix the headlight problem your a genius...call honda and offer them the idea. I'm really serious thats a great idea if its possble. good work

Now you may be the first person on to something..an aftermarket alternator..that could just solve the problem..just be careful you dont void the warranty...if it does fix the headlight problem your a genius...call honda and offer them the idea. I'm really serious thats a great idea if its possble. good work

I'm not sure if you're being serious or facetious, but an alternator would probably solve the problem. It's a voltage drop and it's either the alternator, a relay or a harness somewhere. Probably a cheap alternator if I had to guess.

I'm sure I'd void the warranty as it related to the alternator and possibly the entire electrical system. In fact, I'm positive that I would. But you probably do that hardwiring a GPS and radar detector like lots of folks do (if you want to get right technical about it anyway). The place down the street can do amazing things with alternators. They could take the stock alternator, strip it out and rebuild it to any spec (within reason) that I ask for. I had them do it for a 74 Jeep I had. I'll have to do it eventually on the Accord because of the way I run accessories. So stock alternator housing, rebuilt guts, bolts right back on. The stock electrical isn't going to work for me. I'm a little particular about my electrical systems.

But let them try to void my powertrain warranty on account of an aftermarket alternator.

Ask Volkswagen of America how that turned out for them when they tried that crap with my GTI. Know your statutes as it relates to warranty. A common misconception is that voiding a "part" of the warranty voids "all" of the warranty. That's not true. Putting an aftermarket suspension kit voids that portion of your warranty but it doesn't have anything to do with your transmission going bad at 5,000 miles. You just have to not be bullied. They'll tell you you voided your warranty, but that's not true. Again, ask VWoA how that worked for them.

It's all a matter of perspective I suppose. Electrical is the least of my worries because I'm going to overtax the stock garbage anyway. I can deal with that with my eyes closed.

The integrity of the motor is something I won't be messing with, at least not on this car anyway.

The rattle is just driving me INSANE right now...

Believe me I am absolutely serious I am not being a wise guy...that is really a great idea if you can do it.

I'm not sure if you're being serious or facetious, but an alternator would probably solve the problem. It's a voltage drop and it's either the alternator, a relay or a harness somewhere. Probably a cheap alternator if I had to guess.

I'm sure I'd void the warranty as it related to the alternator and possibly the entire electrical system. In fact, I'm positive that I would. But you probably do that hardwiring a GPS and radar detector like lots of folks do (if you want to get right technical about it anyway). The place down the street can do amazing things with alternators. They could take the stock alternator, strip it out and rebuild it to any spec (within reason) that I ask for. I had them do it for a 74 Jeep I had. I'll have to do it eventually on the Accord because of the way I run accessories. So stock alternator housing, rebuilt guts, bolts right back on. The stock electrical isn't going to work for me. I'm a little particular about my electrical systems.

But let them try to void my powertrain warranty on account of an aftermarket alternator.

Ask Volkswagen of America how that turned out for them when they tried that crap with my GTI. Know your statutes as it relates to warranty. A common misconception is that voiding a "part" of the warranty voids "all" of the warranty. That's not true. Putting an aftermarket suspension kit voids that portion of your warranty but it doesn't have anything to do with your transmission going bad at 5,000 miles. You just have to not be bullied. They'll tell you you voided your warranty, but that's not true. Again, ask VWoA how that worked for them.

It's all a matter of perspective I suppose. Electrical is the least of my worries because I'm going to overtax the stock garbage anyway. I can deal with that with my eyes closed.

The integrity of the motor is something I won't be messing with, at least not on this car anyway.

The rattle is just driving me INSANE right now...

There is NOTHING wrong with the alternator. If the alternator could not handle the load (amps) the voltage would never return to normal (14.8 V+-) after the condenser fans kick on (yes I know the inrush or starting current is higher than the running current). The problem is the alternator is set to low output much of the time by the engine computer and the ELD. I believe this is done primarily for the minor fuel savings and the CAFE standards - since Honda sells more Accords than anything else and more 4 cylinders than the V6, the savings add up even if it's only 0.5 mpg savings. The issue is the wiring and how the alternator is signaled from the computer. Disconnect the ELD and the problem will likely disappear, but you'll void your warranty. I don't believe an Optima Yellow Top or a battery for a Peterbilt will make a lick of difference.

But what do I know. I don't even have an Accord anymore.:)

Hello all. First post here.

I took delivery on a 2009 Accord EX-L Sedan last week. It's the polished metal color. I totaled my 2006 Ford F150 and decided to get something more sensible since I'm coming up on my third wedding anniversary.

Anyway... love this car so far. It's a really nice ride. I've owned all sorts of other cars from an 84 Monte Carlo SS (and also a 2001 SS) to a 2004 VW GTI to the pickup. The Accord is a decent ride.

I know there's discussion of rattles in this car. I have one somewhere. I can hear it out of my left ear and it sort of sounds like a light rattle, like a loose part somewhere. I almost want to say it's on the B Pillar. I thought the adjustable seat belt mount might be the culprit, but I can't confirm it.

I went around the other night and banged on the B pillar, driver's side passenger door panel and parcel shelf and I seemed to get rid of the rattle temporarily, although that could just be coincidence. Who knows.

The rattle occurs just driving down the freeway - not a rough road, but a super slab interstate. It also occurs when listening to talk radio and hearing a male voice boom just a bit. So, there's got to be something loose somewhere.

Any ideas? It's not the glove box for sure. It really does sound like something on the driver's side.

Tempted to have my wife drive and let me hunt around in the car to see if I can isolate it.

My brakes squeal with 400 miles on the car already.

And yesterday I left the sunroof in the vent position to dissipate the Florida heat. When I got in the car to go home the sunroof wouldn't go back down. I had to hit the close button about 15 times before it actually closed. It's like it got stuck on something somehow.

Anyone have clues to the rattle and sunroof issue?

Brakes I can solve.

My headlights dim too, but I'm gonna drop an Optima yellow in there anyway and I figure that'll take care of that.

Thanks crew!

~ Big D

I hear that rattle too and i think its coming from the window. I only hear it when the window is open, even just a little. but when i leave it closed its fine and makes no rattle. can anyone verify this? cuz it does sound like a lose screw hitting metal.:dunno:

There is NOTHING wrong with the alternator. If the alternator could not handle the load (amps) the voltage would never return to normal (14.8 V+-) after the condenser fans kick on (yes I know the inrush or starting current is higher than the running current). The problem is the alternator is set to low output much of the time by the engine computer and the ELD. I believe this is done primarily for the minor fuel savings and the CAFE standards - since Honda sells more Accords than anything else and more 4 cylinders than the V6, the savings add up even if it's only 0.5 mpg savings. The issue is the wiring and how the alternator is signaled from the computer. Disconnect the ELD and the problem will likely disappear, but you'll void your warranty. I don't believe an Optima Yellow Top or a battery for a Peterbilt will make a lick of difference.

But what do I know. I don't even have an Accord anymore.:)

I'm also aware that you were involved in a buy back.

You may well be right. I really don't know. This is my first Accord and my first Japanese car in many years. I'm not terribly familiar with the computer controls since I've only had it a week.

However I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest that you didn't replace your alternator, right? While the stock alternator may not be "broken" and technically there is nothing wrong with it, I'd also bet dollars to doughnuts that a beefier alternator would solve the problem. Only one way to find out.

I'm not concerned with the perceived electrical problem. I do understand your issue with regards to the safety of yourself, your family and other drivers. I will, however, qualify this by saying you were likely unhappy with your purchase for more than just the lighting issue.

To me, I can fix the electrical problem on an other wise fine automobile and it's something I would have done as a matter of course anyway. To each his own though. I've owned BMWs and if I wanted another, I'd have bought one. It's a Honda, not a Bimmer and not a Benz. Completely different class of car.

I'm more concerned with the rattle that I can't find anywhere.

Ok, pretty sure I located the rattle area.

Definitely in the moveable shoulder belt area on the B Pillar.

Now to tear down and isolate.

Oftentimes dim lights are caused by a bad ground, especially if the problem is intermittent. . Just a thought.

so i tried placing a piece of 'velvet foam' tape in between the bolt and the pice of the seatbelt that rattles. i havnt driven enough to know if it solved the problem, but here is a pic of what i did

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d132/ufmike316/003-7.jpg

Rattle could be coming from passenger seat itself. There are numerous reports that there are defective passenger seats going around. Honda even posted TSB for passenger seat rattle. I went in for a passenger seat rattle and rear rattle. Dealer promised to replace the whole seat. (Part is on order) and get the rear rattle diagnosed while the car is there for seat replacement.

My rattle was in the steering wheel colum, sounded just like the way most of you kats discribed. The Tech replaced some kind of bracket in the steering area, sound is gone now.