...on certain roads, most notably ones with a lot of patch paving, the ride on my new Accord EX-L can become a bit annoying (it's basically noticed when I'm driving alone with no music or radio on, so I'm paying more attention to this minor annoyance) out on the highway at speed the ride is fine, it only seems rough when going slower over c**ppy paving jobs. Is there a remedy for this? I have to say that I'm not impressed with the Michelin MXV4 s8 tires that come as OEM factory standard, so I've ordered a set of Goodyear Comfortreds for the Accord...I'm hoping the great raves I've read about how much quieter and smoother this tire is will make some difference in taming the somewhat rough tendencies the Accord displays on the aforementioned road surfaces...
...what have the rest of you noticed with regards to this topic? Have any of you tried to 'soften' the ride?

Lorne Miller Victoria BC

05 Accord EX-L deep green pearl with ivory
96 Odyssey taffeta white with sage green

have you checked your tire psi? maybe too much pressure? Should be @ 30psi cold... The original Michelin tires are really not forgiving when it comes to noise and ride.

I swapped mine out already with only 2000 miles on it for the New Goodyear Comfort-tread tires. Like night and day. MUCH more comfortable and quiet! :thmsup:

Tires and pressure.

Make sure your COLD tire pressure is what is read on the doors. Sometimes even the dealer will blow up your tires and your car will ride HARD.

Short of changing the springs (the 4 cylinder is notoriously stiffer riding than the 6 cyl by the way), tires are the easiest way to soften the ride.

Is your car still fairly new (less than 10,000 miles or so)? If so the ride will get softer as your springs and shocks get broken in.

by the way, there are no springs that will SOFTEN the ride. all aftermarket springs are made to enhance performance, which sacrifices ride quality to some extent. so, most after market springs will be just as stiff if not stiffer than stock (not to mention they also lower the ride height).

Just be careful with the pressure if you adjust it for comfort. Too high can be uncomfortable, but too low can be fatal.

have you checked your tire psi? maybe too much pressure? Should be @ 30psi cold...
FYI: On my 04 EX-L I4 5MT, it states 32psi for the front, & 30psi for the rear.

I swapped mine out already with only 2000 miles on it for the New Goodyear Comfort-tread tires. Like night and day. MUCH more comfortable and quiet! :thmsup:

taffeta - if you haven't already done it, could you provide a detailed review of the new tires? many of us are considering the ComforTreds for replacement in the near future.

Include your observations on comfort, ride, handling, traction (wet and dry), and of course price.

Thanks!

(Maybe even include in a separate thread in the "Wheels & Tires" section???)

by the way, there are no springs that will SOFTEN the ride. all aftermarket springs are made to enhance performance, which sacrifices ride quality to some extent. so, most after market springs will be just as stiff if not stiffer than stock (not to mention they also lower the ride height).

Not true. "There are no springs" is an absolute. Honda Coupe M/T 4 Cyl does indeed have springs with a lower spring rate but same ride height, and should be a direct swap into the sedan 4cyl. Whether this is worth the time, money, or effort has yet to be determined.

taffeta - if you haven't already done it, could you provide a detailed review of the new tires? many of us are considering the ComforTreds for replacement in the near future.

Include your observations on comfort, ride, handling, traction (wet and dry), and of course price.

Thanks!

(Maybe even include in a separate thread in the "Wheels & Tires" section???)

IN comparison to the OE Michelin's: These tires give a superior all around ride. Comfort comes from the 20% added "comfort zone" in the tread itself. This zone also reduces road noise significantly. In combination with the computer designed tread pattern, it is REMARKABLY quieter in the cabin. CAUTION: you'll tend to hear more "rattles" in the car because of this.
Traction is great: wet weather intermittently here, but when it does rain, no pbms with traction; even off hard accelleration(s). dry traction is superb.
These tires are not cheap, but are competitively priced vs the Michelins. You get what you pay for. PLUS this comes with an 80k warranty. Goodyear has "Spike Sales" normally every month at some point in time; great time to get them. (Can you tell I work for Goodyear? :dunno: )
I also put them on my mom's ES300. It rides like new again! and it's a 1992!
If you live on Oahu, come by the Mililani Store; I'll hook you up!

If you live on Oahu, come by the Mililani Store; I'll hook you up!

Oh, to dream...................... :blah:

I noticed a post on another site where someone had put ComforTreds on their 7th gen and they were going to go back and have them taken off. Said they had no road feel at all, and they had a tendency to wander on highways. Notice anything like that?

Nope. I would tell them to check their tire pressure 1st. These tires do come with a 30day ride guarantee, so if you're not satisfied then it's a full refund that you could apply to another type of tire; or if you buy from somewhere else just take back the tires and they'll refund you...

This is hands-down the best tires out there. Nothing matches it in comfort and durability in combination with it's quietness...

:thmsup:

oops almost forgot. get the alignment checked too! road wander can be a symptom of a bad alignment..

I have an 05 with only 3500 miles on it: I had my alignment checked and my pass frt tire was at a -.15 for the TOE angle. That's out of specs!

Better safe than sorry!

...
I have an 05 with only 3500 miles on it: I had my alignment checked and my pass frt tire was at a -.15 for the TOE angle. That's out of specs!

Better safe than sorry!

toe angle is a function of both front wheels , not singly.

kind of like this: /------\ The way it's measured is with the steering wheel straight.

If one wheel's toe is different from the other's, all that usually means is the steering wheel is not set straight, which can be fixed, of course.

Not enough toe-in can cause wandering, but is better for mileage and tire wear.

Yes this is a problem on new 7th gen accords. Ride is too firm for most people's tastes. The ride is too firm for me. Ride is fine on a smooth pavement, but horrible over broken pavement. This is a family car trying to act like a BMW but fails at that.

I learned to live with it. But not a day goes by without me thinking of selling it. I might sell this and get a passat.

Yes this is a problem on new 7th gen accords. Ride is too firm for most people's tastes. The ride is too firm for me. Ride is fine on a smooth pavement, but horrible over broken pavement. This is a family car trying to act like a BMW but fails at that.

I learned to live with it. But not a day goes by without me thinking of selling it. I might sell this and get a passat.

I hear the V6 doesn't have this problem... that the I4 is much stiffer.
As far as the Passat, VWs ride nice and have great fit and finish, but even hyundai has a better reputation for reliability.

Yes this is a problem on new 7th gen accords. Ride is too firm for most people's tastes. The ride is too firm for me....
Most people in this forum seem to be enthusiastic about the 7th gen ride, whereas you are among a minority. :yes:

I learned to live with it. But not a day goes by without me thinking of selling it. I might sell this and get a passat.
No way! 6 months from now, you'll still have your Accord bc/ you like griping about it so much. :D
Just think... another 6 months of hard-tail commuting, another 6 months of griping, another 6 months of "thinking of selling" every day. . . man, you are living the good life! :nuts:

Yes this is a problem on new 7th gen accords. Ride is too firm for most people's tastes. The ride is too firm for me. Ride is fine on a smooth pavement, but horrible over broken pavement. This is a family car trying to act like a BMW but fails at that.

I learned to live with it. But not a day goes by without me thinking of selling it. I might sell this and get a passat.

You may be happier with the ride, but I suspect that famous :thumbsdow VW quality and less than stellar re-sale values will hit you harder down the road.

"Total Toe" is the combination of both wheels, whether it be front or rear. Toe can be measured individually. If you look at any alignment printout you'll see what I meant. The toe angle on that specific wheel was out of the specified range.

My steering wheel was set, and is still set dead center..both before and after the adjustment.

Nonetheless, the angle was corrected and it's good to go. :D

"Total Toe" is the combination of both wheels, whether it be front or rear. Toe can be measured individually. If you look at any alignment printout you'll see what I meant. The toe angle on that specific wheel was out of the specified range.

My steering wheel was set, and is still set dead center..both before and after the adjustment.

Nonetheless, the angle was corrected and it's good to go. :D

Thanks, but not quite. The only important "toe" measurement at the front is total toe, as the toe of a single wheel will obviously change depending on the position of the steering wheel.

If one wheel's toe is different from the other, that just means either the steering wheel is not centered on the column, or wasn't locked at zero to do the alignment. Not applicable if you have bent tie rods, or some other crash damage.

I guess you can think of changing the toe of one front wheel alone, but all that does is change the total toe.

This only applies to the front wheels, of course.

Thanks, but not quite. The only important "toe" measurement at the front is total toe, as the toe of a single wheel will obviously change depending on the position of the steering wheel.

If one wheel's toe is different from the other, that just means either the steering wheel is not centered on the column, or wasn't locked at zero to do the alignment. Not applicable if you have bent tie rods, or some other crash damage.

I guess you can think of changing the toe of one front wheel alone, but all that does is change the total toe.

This only applies to the front wheels, of course.
he was talking about the measurement before alignment. the wheels pretty much never go out of alignment symmetrically unless its coincidence because each wheel is adjusted independently with its own set of adjustable control arms. also, alignment is done using adjustment bolts and the vehicle's chassis and does not involve the steering wheel.

Yep, I am "scared" of VW reliability (or lack of it) and I am also concerned about all the complaints of horrible VW dealer service. These are the only reasons why I have yet to purchase a new passat (05 Passat GL auto you can buy these days for 18k before T&L). I may just keep my Accord and just live with that "near buckboard" ride.

I got me some new tires (Bridgestone) and ride is little better now.

I love my Accord's reliability. But I am somewhat disappointed about workmanship (creaks and rattles, etc). I guess that comes with it when the car costs less than 20k.

he was talking about the measurement before alignment. the wheels pretty much never go out of alignment symmetrically unless its coincidence because each wheel is adjusted independently with its own set of adjustable control arms. also, alignment is done using adjustment bolts and the vehicle's chassis and does not involve the steering wheel.


"Who's on first" "Yep"

As one who has actually taken wrench to tie-rod ends, and done alignments, among other major suspension work, myself, I think I have a grasp of the concepts. Or maybe not.

If the steering wheel was at Zero deg when the car was going dead straight, there should not be a significant difference in toe side-to-side on the rack, absent crash damage or other major abnormalities.

One last time (I'm a glutton): When the car is rolling straight, The front wheels must be centered (the toe the same on both sides) making the "EFFECTIVE" TOE EQUAL on both sides no matter what the alignment results said beforehand. It does this by turning the steering wheel however much needed to center the wheels when rolling. That's why it is important to CENTER the steering wheel before starting the measurements. Otherwise you end up with an off-center steering wheel when you're done. That's also why the total toe is the only really significant toe measurement since that is the state of the wheels when the car is actually moving.

Conversely, if the wheel was put in the center position, and the toe readings are different from side to side, changing the adjustment of just one wheel significantly will result in the steering wheel being off-center when the car is being driven down the road. It will go straight, without pulling, if there are no other alignment problems, but the steering wheel will be off (if not noticeably).

I probably don't know what I'm talking about.

Now, you want to talk about actual "pulling" to the sides??? Ha! Caster? What's that, you say? What's a king-pin? :blah:

What was the original topic now?

ok I had thought that you were saying there was no way that one side's toe could be different from the other side's. my misunderstanding. :thmsup:

You should try some OEM LX I4 Coupe 4cyl 5 speed springs and see how it rides... I suspect it'd be noticeably cushier. The i4 coupe is lighter by itself, plus the M/T is also noticeably lighter (at least it is in most cars)... that combo should work well.


Yep, I am "scared" of VW reliability (or lack of it) and I am also concerned about all the complaints of horrible VW dealer service. These are the only reasons why I have yet to purchase a new passat (05 Passat GL auto you can buy these days for 18k before T&L). I may just keep my Accord and just live with that "near buckboard" ride.

I got me some new tires (Bridgestone) and ride is little better now.

I love my Accord's reliability. But I am somewhat disappointed about workmanship (creaks and rattles, etc). I guess that comes with it when the car costs less than 20k.

BUMP!!
...now that I've had opportunity to drive this car for a month and a bit I've noticed a few more things about 'the ride'...yes, tire pressure can have a major effect on the 'feel' but I think this has as much to do with the VERY stiff MXV4's as it does with the suspension set-up...and another thing I've really noticed when I made a side by side comparison between my Accord and my Acura and my Odyssey - is the fact that the seats in the Accord have an incredible amount of 'springyness', my wife was actually the first one in our family to comment on this, pointing out that the seats actually bounce a bit over certain road irregularities. So I wonder how much of what is thought to be a stiff ride may be a result of the actual 'suspension' in the front seats...what have you guys and gals noticed in regards to that? :jumping:


cheers,

Lorne Miller
05 Accord EX-L deep green pearl
96 Odyssey taffeta white

Honda tends to tune the seat's "springyness" to compensate for the overall ride stiffness. For instance, the seats in the Integra Type-R are softer than the seats in the regular Integra due to the stiffer suspension of the ITR... I'm not surprised to hear that the seat in your Accord is 'springier" than the Odyssey or the Acura. The suspension is slightly softer on those two cars. You car will feel slightly softer as the seats and the shocks get more broken in, but it's still not going to be Laz-e-boy sofa soft...... :)