It seems like there's a few people getting ripped at the stealership for what I consider a simple job, so I decided to make a writeup.

**note- I'm not responsible for any damage you inflict on your car**

Make sure the engine is off and cool to the touch when performing this DIY or you increase the risk of damaging your cylinder heads!

What you'll need:

6mm allen wrench
Spark plug socket, extender (I recommend you have one that's ~5" for the rear plugs) and socket wrench.
Anti-seize
Flathead screwdriver or coin
6 Iridium spark plugs


Start with removing the plastic engine cover-
Use the screwdriver or coin to turn the screws left 90 degrees. Don't forget to unhook the o2 sensor wire.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/DemonPizzaboy/DSC00046.jpg

Remove the ignition coils-
First, detach all the connectors by pressing on the tab shown. Then use the 6mm allen to unscrew the coils. Then, simply lift them out of the engine.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/DemonPizzaboy/DSC00051.jpg

Remove the old plugs using the spark plug socket, extender and socket wrench.

To install the new plugs-
First, coat the threads with anti-seize. DO NOT GAP the plugs as the are pre-gapped, and you may damage the electrode.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/DemonPizzaboy/DSC00052.jpg

Hand tighten the plugs as shown. Then, tighten the plugs to specs (will post exact specs soon, with the little washers it should be 1/2 to 2/3 a turn).
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/DemonPizzaboy/DSC00053.jpg

Re-install the coil packs and connectors.

Re-install the plastic cover and o2 sensor wire.

Do you recommend Denso or NGK spark plugs?

I used NGK, but between Denso and NGK they seem identical in quality and performance. I would say go with whichever of the two you can find cheaper.

Actually, since it's aluminum head, I don't think you even need the grease.

However, for your own peace of mind, I guess it's OK.

cool, are the back plugs a bitch even with a .5 extension? thanks. and can i use something other than the iridium?

cool, are the back plugs a bitch even with a .5 extension? thanks. and can i use something other than the iridium?

Based on how long the change interval and how much work it is, stick with the NGK/Denso iridium plugs, no one has had any problems sticking with Honda's choice.

Just for the record that is about 10,000 times more anti seize than is needed.

Is this DIY for the front 3 spark plugs only? I don't see how to replace those at the back which is more difficult I think.

Is this DIY for the front 3 spark plugs only? I don't see how to replace those at the back which is more difficult I think.

Same question.....

No one really answered if the rear plugs are a bitch to deal with....It looks like they are.

Same question.....

No one really answered if the rear plugs are a bitch to deal with....It looks like they are.

They're really not, I'm average sized, and I have plenty of room for my hands. The only thing that makes the rears a tad tricky is getting the socket extension at the right angle to fit between the firewall. Make sure you tighten the plugs purely by hand at first so you can feel them going into the threads properly. Compared to some V6's and V8's, this is a fairly simple job.

cool, are the back plugs a bitch even with a .5 extension? thanks. and can i use something other than the iridium?

Yes the engine will run with different plugs, but I experimented with platinum plugs and for whatever reason I had such an ignition retard the loss in power was ridiculous. Trust me when I say to stick with iridium.

Just for the record that is about 10,000 times more anti seize than is needed.

And just for the record I use a huge container with a brush the size of the threads, so it's actually damn hard not to put that much on. Besides, it's one less worry about having them in for 100K miles

They're really not, I'm average sized, and I have plenty of room for my hands. The only thing that makes the rears a tad tricky is getting the socket extension at the right angle to fit between the firewall. Make sure you tighten the plugs purely by hand at first so you can feel them going into the threads properly. Compared to some V6's and V8's, this is a fairly simple job.

Is this mean that we don't have to remove any parts to access rear spark plugs? When I did this on my old Eclipse it was a lot of work due to the fact that I had to remove something on the top of the engine (Intake manifold ???).

I looked at my engine and it looks like I can easily access rear plugs. Can you confirm this? Can you take a pic of how you access rear plugs and positioned your extension?

Is this mean that we don't have to remove any parts to access rear spark plugs? When I did this on my old Eclipse it was a lot of work due to the fact that I had to remove something on the top of the engine (Intake manifold ???).

I looked at my engine and it looks like I can easily access rear plugs. Can you confirm this? Can you take a pic of how you access rear plugs and positioned your extension?
You don't have to remove anything, I should be able to take a picture here in the next week.

You don't have to remove anything, I should be able to take a picture here in the next week.

Thanks. I will be waiting for pictures.

I was looking into doing this soon. Glad i work at a Honda dealer and "the boys" are Going to help me.. But it seems like the back plugs are a bit of a pain. Nice thread help alot of us who are use to the older cars..

I used maybe 1/10th the amount of anti-seize that the OP used.

I'm curious, have you had any misfire problems considering how much anti-seize you used? :paranoid:

no worry about misfire, but with that much anti-seize on the threads past the aluminum head, the anti-seize will harden on the threads and it will be more difficult to remove the plugs later. you should only put a small dot about 1/2 way up from the electrode if any. Threading the spark plug in will coat the threads on the heads with anti-seize all around.

The rear plugs are a little harder than the fronts, but the process is the same. I ended up using two 3" extensions on the spark plug socket and a U-joint instead of just a 6" extension.

Great thread!

I have just put 6 spark plugs ( Ngk laser iridium izfr6k11 ) pre gaped at 0.044.
I have suspicion that spark plug is hitting piston . Is that possible ? I torued at 18-20 ftlbs .recommended is 13ftlbs

Please watch the video.

I use 5w20 max life high mileage volvoline synthetic blend oil.
Is it possible I just should shift to 5w30 and this voice will be normal?
Today temperature outside was 50 degree degree F. Is it possible the viscosity if oil I am using is not enough for the power new spark plugs are giving ?

If oil viscosity increase is the solution, what grade I should use 10w40 is good ?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HLbz56B_B_k

NGK all the way.. great write up. Did this a few months back - and happy I did.

Just got myself a Subaru with Horizontal 4 engine. I can't believe how much easier it is do it on the Accord's Inline 4 as all the spark plugs are accessible from the top.

I’D LIKE to see a picture of the rear 3 plugs. I have an ’06 V6 and I can’t see where they would be. I didn’t even get to take the cover off for the other 3 because I can’t unclip the sensor. The radiator tank is in my way. Maybe plyers will help press in the tab while I pull the plug with my hand? I have the shop manual and it shows nothing about replacing sparkplugs! I can’t believe that.

i think it's worth noting that NGK issued a bulletin cautioning against using anti-seize on their iridium plugs.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/TB-0630111antisieze.pdf

i can attest i just pulled NGK plugs out of a neglected 10 year old civic with 162k miles on them and they came right out.

I used Denso because that was what was in there already. The back ones were not that bad to get to and nothing but the plastic cover shown needed to be removed.

A few notes that may help newbies though:

These have been in place for 110k miles if you are on schedule. They creak on the way out making a sound unlike what I have experienced maintaining older cars. Probably just the aluminum of the heads but don't worry. Smooth motions and no slamming and nothing will break.

I find turning the extension by hand counter-clockwise until I hear a click before starting clockwise to install the plug install helps avoid cross threading.

The plugs go in like any others but the coils don't have any definitive snap as they go back in. They are spring loaded so this is normal. I expected there to be a click, no such luck. If they don't go all the way in easily, make sure the rubber ring inside the spark plug socket hasn't stayed on the plug.

The factory manual does recommend anti seize compound so that is what I do. I use a lot less that pictured here and am very careful not to let it near the end, only on the actual threads. Hopefully in another 110k miles they won't creak quite as badly.