I just installed my new speakers in my 2003 Accord EX-V6, upgraded with the Premium Audio System Navigation head unit. The Premium head unit gives me 180-watts instead of the standard 120-watts. Since my front speakers are wired based on the standard system, I am not using the dedicated crossover on the Premium head unit. So the doors are getting a full range signal from the head unit. I left the factory tweeters connected in the dash.

After doing lots of research about speaker choices, I went with the JL Audio TR600-CXi 6 1/2 two-way speakers for the doors and JL Audio TR690-TXi 6 x 9 three-way speakers for the rear deck. Since I am not using an amp, I wanted to find a set of speakers that had good sensitivity and a lower power range to work well with the head unit.

I got both sets on eBay. I got the 6 1/2's from SonicElectronix's eBay store for $79 with free shipping, and the 6 x 9's from a competitor on eBay for $107.95 with free shipping (Sonic is out of stock on the 6 x 9's). Also on eBay, I got the Metra Speaker Adapter Rings 82-7803 for $8.99 and two sets of Metra Speaker Harnesses 72-7800 for $7.12 each. For $210 total, this is an excellent upgrade and it didn't break the bank.

Both sets of speaker installations were a breeze. Using the adapter rings for the doors made it so much easier. The 6 x 9's are an exact drop in fit using the Honda hardware to secure them. The only hard part is working in the back of the coupe!

The factory door speaker. A strange contraption. The bracket is actually the speaker. The woofer is cheap plastic too. No magnet whatsoever on the back.
http://web.me.com/peter.hillman/Site/photos/door1.jpg
http://web.me.com/peter.hillman/Site/photos/door2.jpg

Driver door done, with adapter ring
http://web.me.com/peter.hillman/Site/photos/door3.jpg

Passenger door with adapter ring and speaker harness for easy connections
http://web.me.com/peter.hillman/Site/photos/door4.jpg

Passenger door done
http://web.me.com/peter.hillman/Site/photos/door5.jpg

Here are the factory rear speakers. At least the woofers are made of better materials compared to the front. However, they are just a full range speaker, no mids or tweeters.
http://web.me.com/peter.hillman/Site/photos/rear01.jpg

Here is the rear speaker installed. Perfect fit in the deck and factory grille covers them nicely.
http://web.me.com/peter.hillman/Site/photos/100_3123.jpg

I did take some from the trunk so you can see how large the magnets are compared to the stock speakers. Also, they do not interfere with anything inside the trunk. I do need to tuck those wires away though.
http://web.me.com/peter.hillman/Site/photos/rear1.jpg
http://web.me.com/peter.hillman/Site/photos/rear2.jpg

The sound is far better than the stock speakers. I did increase the bass to 5 (from 3) and treble remained at 2. I adjusted the fader just one degree to the front to compensate for the more powerful speakers in the rear. The vocals are much clearer with the two and three way speakers. The sound from the back with the stock speakers always sounded so muddy and dull. Now it is much brighter with the highs. The bass is much more defined and solid compared to the stock speakers. You don't always need an amp or subwoofer to get good sound, and you don't have to break the bank doing it either.

Hopefully this will help others achieve better sound in their Accord without worrying about how much money to spend.

Thanks for the write-up. What kind of music do you listen to?

No offense, but do you really want highs/mids coming strongly from behind your head? Bad imaging IMHO. I do like the upgrade of your front speakers though.

No offense, but do you really want highs/mids coming strongly from behind your head? Bad imaging IMHO. I do like the upgrade of your front speakers though.
With the front speakers being more powerful than the rear, the imaging is still front image. Even with a 50x4 amp, my fronts play louder than rears. I don't know how anyone thinks going halfassed on anything is better thanfinishing a project in full.

With the front speakers being more powerful than the rear, the imaging is still front image. Even with a 50x4 amp, my fronts play louder than rears. I don't know how anyone thinks going halfassed on anything is better thanfinishing a project in full.



Sorry, but I dont understand what you just said. :dunno:

Sorry, but I dont understand what you just said. :dunno:
If u are gonna do a project, you dont halfass it. meaning if you are gonna replace your speakers, replace them all since i ha to type to you like you were 4yo..lol.

No offense, but do you really want highs/mids coming strongly from behind your head? Bad imaging IMHO. I do like the upgrade of your front speakers though.

That is why I adjusted the fader slightly towards the front because I want the sound to be balanced evenly between the front and the rear.

Thanks for the write-up. What kind of music do you listen to?

Mostly 80's alternative, rock, and classic rock. But I have a wide range on my iPod including jazz, new age, hip-hop/rap, metal. For example, when an Eminem song played, the stock speakers were just so boomy, and not in a good way. Now the bass on the same song is much more solid and defined. All my music on the iPod is encoded at AAC 320, or AAC 256 (for the purchased songs). If I am not listening to the iPod, I am listening to a CD.

I would like to do the same TR600's in my wife's Element EX. Crutchfield says they are a fit in the rear door, but they said the tweeter hits the grille on the front door. So I might buy another pair and see how they fit on the front door, and if they work, then buy another pair for the rear doors.

Mostly 80's alternative, rock, and classic rock. But I have a wide range on my iPod including jazz, new age, hip-hop/rap, metal. For example, when an Eminem song played, the stock speakers were just so boomy, and not in a good way. Now the bass on the same song is much more solid and defined. All my music on the iPod is encoded at AAC 320, or AAC 256 (for the purchased songs). If I am not listening to the iPod, I am listening to a CD.

I would like to do the same TR600's in my wife's Element EX. Crutchfield says they are a fit in the rear door, but they said the tweeter hits the grille on the front door. So I might buy another pair and see how they fit on the front door, and if they work, then buy another pair for the rear doors.


Awesome! I listen to Eminem as well. He used to be my favorite rapper. I think I might do an upgrade like this because I don't want to sacrifice trunk space and the volume is already loud enough for me without an aftermarket amp. I just want to have solid defined bass!

Btw... do you think something like this would be good for the back?
http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Reference-6022i-6-5-Inch-Loudspeaker/dp/B000MV2CB2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1246636920&sr=1-3

Btw... do you think something like this would be good for the back?
http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Reference-6022i-6-5-Inch-Loudspeaker/dp/B000MV2CB2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1246636920&sr=1-3

Infinity makes a good speaker. Should be a nice replacement for your 6 1/2's on the rear deck.

I agree with replacing all speakers........but, 3 ways in the rear shelf? If anything.......I would have left the MID-BASS speakers that came in the Accords rear deck as rear fill (that speaker wasnt meant to produce highs)...............or add a two way speaker that doesnt have a seperate mid and tweeter.................and then add a sub and amp for bass. Keep the solid highs/mids up front where they belong. This is only my humble opinion. Have a great holiday everyone.

Oh, one more way to solve this problem is to add an amp to the front end now.........you can leave the 3 ways.......but make sure the front stage is getting more power.

I agree with replacing all speakers........but, 3 ways in the rear shelf? If anything.......I would have left the MID-BASS speakers that came in the Accords rear deck as rear fill (that speaker wasnt meant to produce highs)...............or add a two way speaker that doesnt have a seperate mid and tweeter.................and then add a sub and amp for bass. Keep the solid highs/mids up front where they belong. This is only my humble opinion. Have a great holiday everyone.

Oh, one more way to solve this problem is to add an amp to the front end now.........you can leave the 3 ways.......but make sure the front stage is getting more power.

Well, the JL Audio TR series doesn't include a two-way 6x9. The VR 6x9 is a two-way, but also higher in power. I wanted lower power speakers to work well with my factory Nav head unit. The purpose of my post was to point out that the Accord's stereo can be improved on a budget with new speakers only. I am not looking to add an amp and sub, as that can be excessive in cost, as well as wipe out my trunk space.

I appreciate your opinion, but I think you represent a small percentage of people that feel that highs should only come from the front. Most don't feel that way and will replace all their speakers. The sound should be balanced between the front and the rear, not more in either direction. A small tweak of the fader does a great job to balance out the vocals/highs to the middle of the car. I have a coupe, my head is in the middle of the passenger compartment, not the front like a sedan. If I had more money, then yes, I could do more with the system. But for $210, it is a great improvement. People can still get great sound without going over the top with amps and subs.

Well, the JL Audio TR series doesn't include a two-way 6x9. The VR 6x9 is a two-way, but also higher in power. I wanted lower power speakers to work well with my factory Nav head unit. The purpose of my post was to point out that the Accord's stereo can be improved on a budget with new speakers only. I am not looking to add an amp and sub, as that can be excessive in cost, as well as wipe out my trunk space.

I appreciate your opinion, but I think you represent a small percentage of people that feel that highs should only come from the front. Most don't feel that way and will replace all their speakers. The sound should be balanced between the front and the rear, not more in either direction. A small tweak of the fader does a great job to balance out the vocals/highs to the middle of the car. I have a coupe, my head is in the middle of the passenger compartment, not the front like a sedan. If I had more money, then yes, I could do more with the system. But for $210, it is a great improvement. People can still get great sound without going over the top with amps and subs.
What brands are you open too? could you i/m me on one of the s/n's ive listed? I'm online.

Well, the JL Audio TR series doesn't include a two-way 6x9. The VR 6x9 is a two-way, but also higher in power. I wanted lower power speakers to work well with my factory Nav head unit. The purpose of my post was to point out that the Accord's stereo can be improved on a budget with new speakers only. I am not looking to add an amp and sub, as that can be excessive in cost, as well as wipe out my trunk space.

I appreciate your opinion, but I think you represent a small percentage of people that feel that highs should only come from the front. Most don't feel that way and will replace all their speakers. The sound should be balanced between the front and the rear, not more in either direction. A small tweak of the fader does a great job to balance out the vocals/highs to the middle of the car. I have a coupe, my head is in the middle of the passenger compartment, not the front like a sedan. If I had more money, then yes, I could do more with the system. But for $210, it is a great improvement. People can still get great sound without going over the top with amps and subs.



Thats cool. I also appreciate what you have done, and respect that. Home theater, car audio, religion, politics, choice in women.......its all subjective. I just prefer my car audio to sound similar to a live performance....... music in front of you. Bass is more less non directional...........so a sub in the trunk is acceptable. I know more OEM car audio systems have 10 speaker set ups with speakers everywhere..........and that is cool as well. Hey, I dont have anything special as far as this Accord goes, but I have had some pretty nice systems in the past. Have a great 4th!!!

hillstones,

Nice write up. Question...Did you have any problems putting the door panels back on? I mean, with the speaker adapter on, did the inside of the door panel hit the new speaker? Any door panel rattles?

hillstones,

Nice write up. Question...Did you have any problems putting the door panels back on? I mean, with the speaker adapter on, did the inside of the door panel hit the new speaker? Any door panel rattles?

Thanks! No problems at all putting the door panels back on. Crutchfield confirmed those were a fit with the adapter rings. Some speakers have tweeters that protrude too far. No rattles at all, except for the existing ones that I have always had. I have always had a rattle that sounds like it comes from behind the passenger door handle, but I can never find it. The rings are tight against the door, and the speakers are tight against the rings, so the speakers themselves don't rattle.

What brands are you open too? could you i/m me on one of the s/n's ive listed? I'm online.

This is the first stereo upgrade I have done since 1990. From 1994 to 2004, I had a long series of company cars. Couldn't do anything with those. I have had the Accord since it was new in late 2002, and never upgraded the stereo until now (except for the OEM Nav conversion I did last summer).

The stereo upgrade I did in 1990 was in my 1987 Nissan 200SX SEV6 hatchback. I did a Sony cassette pullout stereo with a 10-CD Changer in the back. I had a 4-channel Sony amp driving 4 Polk Audio 6 1/2's. It was a great sounding system, but could have used a sub since it was a hatchback. But never got around to it, then sold the car.

I never heard of JL Audio until I started researching speakers, but they all had great reviews. I like JBL, Polk Audio, and now JL Audio. Most aftermarket head units these days look like crap in my opinion. Since I now have the OEM Nav, I would never consider replacing it. But I have never had any problems with Sony head units or their amps in the past.

This was the big technology back in 1990:
http://web.me.com/peter.hillman/Site/photos/SonyXR7070.jpg

I am going to date myself even further! This was my cool stereo upgrade back in high school! Clarion Cassette Deck, Clarion EQ Booster (do they even make those anymore???), and Pioneer 6x9's custom cut in the rear deck. I had some Pioneer 6 1/2's in the door, but never took pics of them.
http://web.me.com/peter.hillman/Site/photos/200sx1.jpg
http://web.me.com/peter.hillman/Site/photos/200sx2.jpg
http://web.me.com/peter.hillman/Site/photos/200sx3.jpg

If u are gonna do a project, you dont halfass it. meaning if you are gonna replace your speakers, replace them all since i ha to type to you like you were 4yo..lol.

halfass it? you wasted money on rear speakers...you should have left it or have disconnected them and put more money to a better frontstage

Infinity makes a good speaker. Should be a nice replacement for your 6 1/2's on the rear deck.

:paranoid::paranoid::paranoid:

halfass it? you wasted money on rear speakers...you should have left it or have disconnected them and put more money to a better frontstage



:paranoid::paranoid::paranoid:
I did good speaker all around and processor/amps sub. but telling this guy to do what i did is not the price he wants. As far as my soundstage, i have my lc7 set-up so the volume is a tad higher in the front. The fronts can handle 75watts rms compared to 50rms in the rear anyway so i did exactly what you said..lol. The reason why i say to replace rears too is because they are "muddy" sounding. U should want clarity to fill the whole car. A good system in your car should be similar to home stereo. The mids/highs are so good as to u dont know where the sub bass is coming from. Same with home theater. You hide the sub and people thing the bass is coming from the satillite drivers around the room. In this members case he wants as much volume/clarity/bass as he can get using the stock amp. So changing everything (6spkrs) yields him two more tweeters for a total of 8 skrs. I'll sound like he got a whole new system for 200 bux.

I digress... I was gonna mention if there is a memphis dealer in your area take a listen to Memphis' Power Refference line. 80/set. Always take a cd of music (a real cd no mp3/wma) with you listen to. that way you can hear 1st hand how the speakers sound with your style of music. Make sure they play them of deck power and not off an amp.

The reason why i say to replace rears too is because they are "muddy" sounding. U should want clarity to fill the whole car. A good system in your car should be similar to home stereo. The mids/highs are so good as to u dont know where the sub bass is coming from. Same with home theater. You hide the sub and people think the bass is coming from the satillite drivers around the room. In this members case he wants as much volume/clarity/bass as he can get using the stock amp. So changing everything (6spkrs) yields him two more tweeters for a total of 8 skrs. It'll sound like he got a whole new system for 200 bux.

Well said. For $210, the sound quality is a big improvement. I was going for the economical upgrade, not a complete overhaul. If we count actual speaker components, there are now 12 speakers instead of 6. The factory tweeters are 2, the two-way door speakers are 4, and the three-way rear speakers are 6. As far as actual speakers to replace, there are still just 4 (unless you do components up front, then you have 6 to replace).

I am glad everyone has enjoyed the post. It is always great to read about everyone's opinions on imaging, etc. Dropping in new speakers should always be the first step to improving your stereo.

looking good, where did you get your baffles? like everyone else said, my concern with your stereo is the imaging. but that's what the fader is for. any particular reason for not going component fronts and replacing the oem tweets ? IMO, they are complete trash and at the least you should disconnect them.

looking good, where did you get your baffles? like everyone else said, my concern with your stereo is the imaging. but that's what the fader is for. any particular reason for not going component fronts and replacing the oem tweets ? IMO, they are complete trash and at the least you should disconnect them.
Why disconnect? they add to his front stage. Disconnet them and it'll sound like everything is coming from the floor. You want it to sound like the band and singer are singing right from your dash board. Those oem tweeters (if you don't do components for less $$$), help the front stage since they are also angled toward the front/center to give the effect of a center channel. Hope that makes since.

Aside from the factory speakers being utter rubbish I think the placement of the speakers in the new coupes is decent. The tweeters in the sail panels is alright in my book since they do still end up out in front of you a little ways. I swore off building any kick panels or anything when I got my new coupe, and I do hope I stick to my guns on that one, so I just plan on sticking my Hertz HSK 165s in the stock front locations, ditching the rears, and swapping a nice little free air 8 into the back location and calling it a day. Small 4 channel amp connected to a nav unit and hopefully I'll never look back. I'm all for ditching the rear speakers though. Never have I run them before nor will I ever. Whatever money is spent on rears could be used to upgrade the fronts that much more.

-Ron

looking good, where did you get your baffles? like everyone else said, my concern with your stereo is the imaging. but that's what the fader is for. any particular reason for not going component fronts and replacing the oem tweets ? IMO, they are complete trash and at the least you should disconnect them.

Baffles? I don't have baffles. Are you referring to the speaker adapter rings? I got them off eBay. Look at the first post and I listed the Metra model numbers to look for. Made the speaker installation a breeze.

I did not want to do components because I am on a tight budget and didn't want to hassle with the re-wiring and placement of the separate crossovers. Leaving them connected doesn't degrade the sound at all, and provides some high end off the dash.

So I thought I would post this information for those fellow Accord owners that also own a Honda Element. I just got two pairs of Polk Audio db651s 6 1/2 two-way speakers for my Element EX and they are an exact drop-in fit with no drilling, cutting, etc.! Installing them could not be easier! Got them from SonicElectronix's eBay store for $72.95/pair, free shipping. They sound phenomenal too combined with the 270-watt factory amp, factory subwoofer, and tweeters in the A-pillar! Another great upgrade for only $150!

The Element Owners Club has a lame 8 picture requirement, so there are two posts.

http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=779704&postcount=250
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=779705&postcount=251

Something I don't quite understand about replacing door woofers with 2-ways. Aren't there factory crossovers in place that routes midrange to the woofers and highs to the tweets in your A-pillars? So aren't the Polk 2-ways only receiving midrange signals which makes the tweeters useless?

Something I don't quite understand about replacing door woofers with 2-ways. Aren't there factory crossovers in place that routes midrange to the woofers and highs to the tweets in your A-pillars? So aren't the Polk 2-ways only receiving midrange signals which makes the tweeters useless?
Not all models do. but your car... yes. but doing 2-ways is a lot cheaper route and u still get highs (less so with x-over) through them.

Something I don't quite understand about replacing door woofers with 2-ways. Aren't there factory crossovers in place that routes midrange to the woofers and highs to the tweets in your A-pillars? So aren't the Polk 2-ways only receiving midrange signals which makes the tweeters useless?

As Desmond said, the majority of Hondas don't use separate crossovers for the door speakers and tweeters. The tweeters are wired off the front speaker lines and they have their own crossover directly attached to the tweeter itself. Similar to the design of an actual two-way speaker. So the door speakers receive a full range signal from the stereo. You can leave the tweeters connected for added high imaging.

The only 7th Gen Accord that offered a separate crossover was the EX V6 6-Speed manual with the 180-watt Premium Audio System. The crossover is attached the back of the stereo and the speaker outputs go into the crossover from the stereo, and then go to the door speakers and tweeters separately. The 8th Gen Accord with Premium Audio also uses separate crossovers. All other Hondas don't, allowing you to replace the door speakers without loss of signal quality.

I see, thanks for the info.

dude great thread, i plan on just replacing the front door speakers on my accord coupe. will i notice a difference with these speakers?

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-PIONEER-TS-G1642R-CAR-6-5-2-WAY-SPEAKERS-6-1-2-PAIR_W0QQitemZ290331194950QQcategoryZ14936QQcmdZVi ewItem

A good system in your car should be similar to home stereo. The mids/highs are so good as to u dont know where the sub bass is coming from. Same with home theater.

uhh, no. To reproduce the sound correctly would be in 2channel, left and right, in front of you. When you go to a concert, do you turn your back to the stage? do the guitarists play from behind your seats or from in front of you?

Same with a car. Idealy, even the sub should be placed in front of you to minimize localization. Obviously not an option in 99% of installs, so you make due with phasing and time correction to try to achieve that.

Imo, the best option would be a good set of speakers in the front doors, in a well deadened door, with at least 50WPC going to them. set up properly, this will blow away any set of components thrown in with no deadening and some coaxials in the back.

hell, assuming the thread starters speakers werent blown, I'dhave rather seen a 2ch amp and some dynamat added to the stocks. cannot deny headroom.

dude great thread, i plan on just replacing the front door speakers on my accord coupe. will i notice a difference with these speakers?

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-PIONEER-TS-G1642R-CAR-6-5-2-WAY-SPEAKERS-6-1-2-PAIR_W0QQitemZ290331194950QQcategoryZ14936QQcmdZVi ewItem

you'll notice it will be brighter, but thats pretty much it.

try to budget for a small amp to power them, and some dynamat or equivalent to help isolate the front and rear wavelengths from canceling out.

uhh, no. To reproduce the sound correctly would be in 2channel, left and right, in front of you. When you go to a concert, do you turn your back to the stage? do the guitarists play from behind your seats or from in front of you?

Same with a car. Idealy, even the sub should be placed in front of you to minimize localization. Obviously not an option in 99% of installs, so you make due with phasing and time correction to try to achieve that.

Imo, the best option would be a good set of speakers in the front doors, in a well deadened door, with at least 50WPC going to them. set up properly, this will blow away any set of components thrown in with no deadening and some coaxials in the back.

hell, assuming the thread starters speakers werent blown, I'dhave rather seen a 2ch amp and some dynamat added to the stocks. cannot deny headroom.
Hold up. You do get fill-in at a concert. its called the sound bouncing off the wall behind you and back to your ears. If your logic was correct then wed only have simulated surround 2 channel home theaters. No now we not only have 5.1 but now 6.1 and 7.1. But thats my arguement but it you feel just hearing in front of you is superior to all over... hmmm lol.

Hold up. You do get fill-in at a concert. its called the sound bouncing off the wall behind you and back to your ears. If your logic was correct then wed only have simulated surround 2 channel home theaters. No now we not only have 5.1 but now 6.1 and 7.1. But thats my arguement but it you feel just hearing in front of you is superior to all over... hmmm lol.

umm, home theaters have dedicated center channel imaging and proper delayed processing for sirround channels.

if you are going to compare a car system to a home theater, you need to compare it to a 2ch home theater setup, which has 2 channels, which are both infront of you.

if you add a dsp processor and a center channel to your car then cool, have at it with your rear fill etc.

and for your fill in comment...what do you think happens when the 2 speakers in front of you play? that they stop at your ears? or does sound travel behind you, providing you with the fill that you are referring to...

umm, home theaters have dedicated center channel imaging and proper delayed processing for sirround channels.

if you are going to compare a car system to a home theater, you need to compare it to a 2ch home theater setup, which has 2 channels, which are both infront of you.

if you add a dsp processor and a center channel to your car then cool, have at it with your rear fill etc.

and for your fill in comment...what do you think happens when the 2 speakers in front of you play? that they stop at your ears? or does sound travel behind you, providing you with the fill that you are referring to...
Okay ill concede that point but let me also say this. I got the same brand speakers all around minus the fact that the front were components. That said because the rear 2-way only handle 50watts rms/ 100 max & the components 75watt rms/150 max, the play louder than the rears anyway with the fader centered. Also those speakers are further away and the front tweeters are aimed toward the center of the 2 front pax giving a faux center effect but. my point is if you only change the fronts and leave the sloppy sounding full-range rears (the dont even have weezer cones to help), it put a cheap pair of 2-ways at least in the back. It helps add more volumn in this guys case since no amp will be added at this time. May also my agrguement is biased to the music i listen to. As i said in another thread, i'm a rave/techno music feen but at the same time i love jazz/classical and i need those tweeters to enhance things like the crash of cymbles (sp?) and stuff like flute and stuff (im 29yo i promise..lol). But we all have our ways to make our commutes to work more enjoyable so pick what works for YOU... My .02 is just to give you food for thought. And i'm glad to give it.

dude great thread, i plan on just replacing the front door speakers on my accord coupe. will i notice a difference with these speakers?

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-PIONEER-TS-G1642R-CAR-6-5-2-WAY-SPEAKERS-6-1-2-PAIR_W0QQitemZ290331194950QQcategoryZ14936QQcmdZVi ewItem

Those should do nicely with the factory stereo since they are rated at 2-30 watts. You will notice more clarity in the vocals and better bass, as I did from the JL Audio's that I installed in my coupe. Are you going to replace the 6x9's in the rear deck? I noticed a great improvement when I replaced mine.

umm, home theaters have dedicated center channel imaging and proper delayed processing for surround channels.

That was back in the day of Dolby Pro Logic Surround. Dolby Digital 5.1 and DTS 5.1 have 5 dedicated channels, and the .1 is the subwoofer. Those 5 channels do NOT have delayed processing, they are each a discrete channel, just like the front and rear speakers in your vehicle.

I guess I am the only one that prefers to hear my car audio equally all around me. That is why they still put a speaker in each corner of the vehicle.

possibly I used the wrong wording. I tried to summarize that each channel is receiving its own information, and "delays" the sound to each speaker as the recording necessitates, instead of a normal car setup where the front and rear left channel get the same information.

You are not the only one is enjoys music from all corners.

Have you ever been to a live concert from an artist that you enjoy listening to?

Those should do nicely with the factory stereo since they are rated at 2-30 watts. You will notice more clarity in the vocals and better bass, as I did from the JL Audio's that I installed in my coupe. Are you going to replace the 6x9's in the rear deck? I noticed a great improvement when I replaced mine.

I might be changing all four speakers in my mothers 2005 accord. she has the stock radio. is it ahrd to change the tweeters in the dash? i dont have any audio experience thanks.

I might be changing all four speakers in my mothers 2005 accord. she has the stock radio. is it ahrd to change the tweeters in the dash? i dont have any audio experience thanks.
I would actually leave them and buy 2-ways for the doors and 2-ways for the rear. all those extra tweeters will heighten the imaging and youll get more mid-bass than stock from the after market speakers.

I would actually leave them and buy 2-ways for the doors and 2-ways for the rear. all those extra tweeters will heighten the imaging and youll get more mid-bass than stock from the after market speakers.

Any particular reason why you say to replace the "muddy" rear speakers but insist on leaving the garbage OEM tweeters in the dash/sails? If you really want extra tweeters why not recommend 2-ways for the doors and a decent set of aftermarket tweeters in the dash/sails?

personally, I would do a set of 2way components, and move the tweeter from the horrible factory location and put it in the sail panels. more work, but much better payoff imo.

and ditch the rears completely

I guess I am the only one that prefers to hear my car audio equally all around me. That is why they still put a speaker in each corner of the vehicle.


Have you ever been to a live concert from an artist that you enjoy listening to?

I enjoy music all around me if it is intended that way as in SACDs where rear channels are used for fill and envelop you in the music. Extra speakers in the rear outputting the same information as the fronts do not serve that purpose for me. The only reason they're there I believe is so rear passengers aren't too far to hear the music. Are there any 2-seater with speakers in the rear?

At a live concert the artist sings in front of me. There's no clone of him singing from behind.

Any particular reason why you say to replace the "muddy" rear speakers but insist on leaving the garbage OEM tweeters in the dash/sails? If you really want extra tweeters why not recommend 2-ways for the doors and a decent set of aftermarket tweeters in the dash/sails?
The muddy rear are because the send everything to a tweeterless full range speaker. At least those tweeters have caps on them so they actually only expell highs vs those rears. No need to twist my words and become a sophomoric smart ass in the process. I havent disparaged anything yu've said because i disagree. Lets act like the men and women that we were or weren raised as in this forum.

The muddy rear are because the send everything to a tweeterless full range speaker. At least those tweeters have caps on them so they actually only expell highs vs those rears. No need to twist my words and become a sophomoric smart ass in the process. I havent disparaged anything yu've said because i disagree. Lets act like the men and women that we were or weren raised as in this forum.

Chill out. I wasn't attacking you, twisting your words, or acting like a smart ass. Earlier in this thread you said that the stock rear speakers sound muddy but also suggested replacing the fronts with 2 way coaxs while leaving in the stock tweeter. In other threads you have said to always change the rear speakers and have said to leave the factory tweeter while replacing the front speakers with 2 way coaxs. You are a big proponent of using rear speakers with tweeters for rear fill. That's fine, it's not my car so I don't care what you or others do. In my car I like just having a good set of front components running off a good amp with the rear fill coming from the sound reflecting off the various interior surfaces of the car, with no rear speakers in use at all. To each his own.

I was simply asking why you recommend replacing the rear speakers but not the front tweeters when you can purchase separate tweeters for the front that will sound better than the factory ones.

Have you ever been to a live concert from an artist that you enjoy listening to?

Yes, and the speakers are positioned in a 360 degree fashion to bounce sound off the surrounding walls in the arena. Also, allows everyone in the arena to hear the music directly.

A live concert in person is different than listening to stereo sound at home or in the car. Pre-recorded music has much more stereo separation than a live performance. When I am in my car or at home, I prefer the pre-recorded stereo recording instead of a live recording (unless I am watching a concert DVD).

With Dolby 5.1 and DTS 5.1, there is no delay to the surround channels. That was only with Dolby Pro Logic. If it sounds like a delay, it is not generated from a surround processor, it is how the digital soundtrack was recorded and intended to be played back.

Are there any 2-seater with speakers in the rear?

At a live concert the artist sings in front of me. There's no clone of him singing from behind.

Yes, the Honda CRX had 4 speakers. If you get good seats, the artist will be in front of you! LOL. But the speakers are positioned throughout an arena, not only on the left and right side pointing in one direction.

Any particular reason why you say to replace the "muddy" rear speakers but insist on leaving the garbage OEM tweeters in the dash/sails? If you really want extra tweeters why not recommend 2-ways for the doors and a decent set of aftermarket tweeters in the dash/sails?

My stereo sounds a million times better with 4 new speakers, even with the factory tweeters left in the dash. That is why I replaced all of the "muddy" sounding full range speakers.

If you get good seats, the artist will be in front of you! LOL. But the speakers are positioned throughout an arena, not only on the left and right side pointing in one direction.

The speakers are still kept at the stage though and in front of the audience.

The speakers are still kept at the stage though and in front of the audience.

exactly. ive never been to a concert where there were speakers positioned throughout the venue UNLESS you were in the cheap seats or a large park type atmosphere where there were seats super far from the stage. and at that point sound quality is the last thing im worried about when i cant even see the stage..

Rear speakers...when will people learn? Multiple point sources for the same frequency unless it's below 150hZ=FAIL! Simply adding speakers to make it "louder" or "fuller" or so it's "all around me" is not a correct way of thinking as far as a quality audio system goes. Someone argued about the speaker arrangement at a concert...which is not what we should be thinking of. The BAND at the concert is the key here, not where the speakers, towers, or any other stuff is. The goal is to recreate the recording as if the band is playing in front of you and the music is originating from the instruments they're playing, not their equipment.

exactly. ive never been to a concert where there were speakers positioned throughout the venue UNLESS you were in the cheap seats or a large park type atmosphere where there were seats super far from the stage. and at that point sound quality is the last thing im worried about when i cant even see the stage..

Rear speakers...when will people learn? Multiple point sources for the same frequency unless it's below 150hZ=FAIL! Simply adding speakers to make it "louder" or "fuller" or so it's "all around me" is not a correct way of thinking as far as a quality audio system goes. Someone argued about the speaker arrangement at a concert...which is not what we should be thinking of. The BAND at the concert is the key here, not where the speakers, towers, or any other stuff is. The goal is to recreate the recording as if the band is playing in front of you and the music is originating from the instruments they're playing, not their equipment.

:thmsup:

so... after all this debating, can someone tell me which would be better for the sound in my car?

a) getting a cheap amp ~$120
b) getting a pair of front two way speakers ~$120


This is assuming I'm on a $120 dollar budget :thumbsup:

so... after all this debating, can someone tell me which would be better for the sound in my car?

a) getting a cheap amp ~$120
b) getting a pair of front two way speakers ~$120


This is assuming I'm on a $120 dollar budget :thumbsup:

Speakers. Adding speakers before amp yields better quality gain than getting amp before speakers. In fact if you get amp and use it on factory speakers you risk blowing them.

im on the fence personally. If the stock speakers are in good condition, you can improve alot by upping the wattage going to them 2 to 3 times over. Hell, I ran 80WPC to some stock silverado speakers in my truck without so much as a hiccup. Sounded great actually, all things considered. Its not the fact of 80W or whatever being used at all times, but moreso the headroom that is gained, allowing you to stay out of the dangerous clipping zone.

new speakers are going to give you more "highs" (I hate writing it like that but feel a simple description is best) as you will gain another tweeter, making things brighter for the most part.

but you are still plagued by the weak output of the stock deck and/or factory amp. In addition, any decent aftermarket amp is going to give you some crossover capabilites that will allow your new speakers, be them factory or aftermarket, to play more efficiently, and not waste off energy on frequencies they were never designed to properly play.

so... after all this debating, can someone tell me which would be better for the sound in my car?

a) getting a cheap amp ~$120
b) getting a pair of front two way speakers ~$120


This is assuming I'm on a $120 dollar budget :thumbsup:

If I might make a suggestion, buy used. For 120 bucks you can snag a fairly good set of components. Same with an amp. For what you would spend at a big box retailer or shop on new you can get better quality used. In all honesty if you look hard enough for 120 bucks you could find an amp AND a set of components, and not junk either.

If I might make a suggestion, buy used. For 120 bucks you can snag a fairly good set of components. Same with an amp. For what you would spend at a big box retailer or shop on new you can get better quality used. In all honesty if you look hard enough for 120 bucks you could find an amp AND a set of components, and not junk either.

personally i'm scared for my life when buying used speakers. an amplifier, headunit, enclosure all can't be secretly screwed up, they are either working or not working. a speaker can have tons of issues, water damage, slight coil rubbing. imo speakers just have too many variables where things can go wrong if they are in the wrong hands :dunno:

only place I would buy used is diyma, and even then, the person would have a ton of feedback.

otherwise, I support my local dealer.

personally i'm scared for my life when buying used speakers. an amplifier, headunit, enclosure all can't be secretly screwed up, they are either working or not working. a speaker can have tons of issues, water damage, slight coil rubbing. imo speakers just have too many variables where things can go wrong if they are in the wrong hands :dunno:

That's totally understandable but if you deal with someone from one of the audio forums, who has references, there's no reason to worry. I've bought, sold, and traded more audio equipment on a couple of the bigger forums and really can't remember a time I had an issue. I don;t know what the policy is on providing links to other forums here is but there's 2 audio forums I frequent and buy all my stuff from.

That's totally understandable but if you deal with someone from one of the audio forums, who has references, there's no reason to worry. I've bought, sold, and traded more audio equipment on a couple of the bigger forums and really can't remember a time I had an issue. I don;t know what the policy is on providing links to other forums here is but there's 2 audio forums I frequent and buy all my stuff from.

i'm a member of several audio forums and just because they are a forum member doesn't qualify them as intelligent, that's as bad as trusting someone because of their post count imo. yes references are important/sometimes a good indicator but really it's hit or miss. i have zero references but i'd be willing to bet, me selling vs someone who has a couple refs, i'd be a better seller in quality of a product. yes i agree with your post for the most part but it truly depends on the person :cig:

Used speakers actually aren't a bad idea if you buy from a reputable person as the speakers would be broken in already.

I just ordered a pair of these for my mothers accord http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1086022SI/Infinity-Reference-6022si.html?tp=95&tab=review&rvm=ShowAllt , cant wait to put them in! the stock speakers are sounding so muddy recently.

What do you guys reccomend i do after this? should i replace the rear 6x9s? should i get 2 ways for the rears?

thanks

I love how even the most minor audio upgrade turns into an all out audiophile arguement. There can be no weekend warriors in audio!!!

So now I have to throw in two cents. Put your money up front. Rears are a waste of money. They can aid a system a tad but to use them to image accurately would take a skilled installer or a killer sound processor. As far as the pros, Gary Biggs won 7 years in a row w/no rear stage. You can argue this and that, but like he says, "you can't argue w/results." A good set up front will fill the whole car up. Two gives me goose bumps. I could take anyones car and throw a better set up front and properly install them as someone mentioned, w/some sound deading material, and have them sound better than two lesser pairs front and rear. I wouldn't do that w/factories though. Not really 2cent, years of experience.

This is the first stereo upgrade I have done since 1990. From 1994 to 2004, I had a long series of company cars. Couldn't do anything with those. I have had the Accord since it was new in late 2002, and never upgraded the stereo until now (except for the OEM Nav conversion I did last summer).

The stereo upgrade I did in 1990 was in my 1987 Nissan 200SX SEV6 hatchback. I did a Sony cassette pullout stereo with a 10-CD Changer in the back. I had a 4-channel Sony amp driving 4 Polk Audio 6 1/2's. It was a great sounding system, but could have used a sub since it was a hatchback. But never got around to it, then sold the car.

I never heard of JL Audio until I started researching speakers, but they all had great reviews. I like JBL, Polk Audio, and now JL Audio. Most aftermarket head units these days look like crap in my opinion. Since I now have the OEM Nav, I would never consider replacing it. But I have never had any problems with Sony head units or their amps in the past.

This was the big technology back in 1990:
http://web.me.com/peter.hillman/Site/photos/SonyXR7070.jpg

I am going to date myself even further! This was my cool stereo upgrade back in high school! Clarion Cassette Deck, Clarion EQ Booster (do they even make those anymore???), and Pioneer 6x9's custom cut in the rear deck. I had some Pioneer 6 1/2's in the door, but never took pics of them.
http://web.me.com/peter.hillman/Site/photos/200sx1.jpg
http://web.me.com/peter.hillman/Site/photos/200sx2.jpg
http://web.me.com/peter.hillman/Site/photos/200sx3.jpg

Way old school! On the Clarion, yes. I had a CD player, cd changer and a digital processor... (on the Civic back in 2001)

I followed what Hillstones ordered and got the JL Audio TR600-CXi 6 1/2 two-way speakers from ebay. They were out and offered me the JL Audio TR650-CXi 6 1/2 two-way speakers.

Will the 650's fit an '03 Accord EX-L with Navigation (Auto)

Hey Hillstones, I am replacing my rerar speakers with JBL GTO927's out of my Dodge Intrepid...

I want to replace the fronts with the JBL GTO 607c component speakers as well... But here is the catch: The GTO 607c's dont have built in tweeters. How will this affect the sound in the front?

Also, the speaker adapter rings you got off ebay (which Ill get too)... Did you have to drill holes in the doors for the screws or something? Are there already holes for the screws in the doors? Because it looks like the factory speaks you took out had tabs not screws...

Thanks in advance

Hey Hillstones, I am replacing my rerar speakers with JBL GTO927's out of my Dodge Intrepid...

I want to replace the fronts with the JBL GTO 607c component speakers as well... But here is the catch: The GTO 607c's dont have built in tweeters. How will this affect the sound in the front?

Also, the speaker adapter rings you got off ebay (which Ill get too)... Did you have to drill holes in the doors for the screws or something? Are there already holes for the screws in the doors? Because it looks like the factory speaks you took out had tabs not screws...

Thanks in advance

When you install component speakers in the front, you must re-wire the speakers to include the crossover included with your JBL's. You need to disconnect the factory tweeters and replace them with your JBL tweeters and run new wire from the JBL crossover to the JBL tweeter. You will also run new wire from the JBL crossover to the JBL woofer in the door.

You cannot use the factory wiring because the standard audio system in your Accord does not use a dedicated crossover for the tweeters. Each tweeter has its own resister directly attached to the tweeter. The factory wiring is split to the tweeter and the door, sending a full range signal to both.

When you install new speakers in the doors, you must drill new holes. Yes, the factory speakers are installed with plastic tabs...probably the stupidest idea I have seen in speaker installation. The problem is the curvature of the metal in the door will make it difficult to use the metal tabs normally used to secure a screw for mounting. I placed them behind the door frame and tried not to over-tighten the screws. The aftermarket speakers will screw into the bracket, but don't over-tighten those screws either.

When you install component speakers in the front, you must re-wire the speakers to include the crossover included with your JBL's. You need to disconnect the factory tweeters and replace them with your JBL tweeters and run new wire from the JBL crossover to the JBL tweeter. You will also run new wire from the JBL crossover to the JBL woofer in the door.

You cannot use the factory wiring because the standard audio system in your Accord does not use a dedicated crossover for the tweeters. Each tweeter has its own resister directly attached to the tweeter. The factory wiring is split to the tweeter and the door, sending a full range signal to both.

When you install new speakers in the doors, you must drill new holes. Yes, the factory speakers are installed with plastic tabs...probably the stupidest idea I have seen in speaker installation. The problem is the curvature of the metal in the door will make it difficult to use the metal tabs normally used to secure a screw for mounting. I placed them behind the door frame and tried not to over-tighten the screws. The aftermarket speakers will screw into the bracket, but don't over-tighten those screws either.

Holy shit! I think Im just replacing my rears for now!

Holy shit! I think Im just replacing my rears for now!

That is why I took the easy route and installed a nice pair of two-way speakers in the doors and left the factory tweeters connected.

That is why I took the easy route and installed a nice pair of two-way speakers in the doors and left the factory tweeters connected.

The reason that I am thinking about just installing the rears for now is not because of all the rewiring I would have to do for the fronts, because I would just buy some JBL GTO 627 2-ways for the fronts and be done with it...

The hard part to me is when you said I would have to drill in the door!!! I mean is it like when you install the factory splash guards in the wheel well and there is those little dimples in the metal that you have to poke to make them actual holes? Or do you just have to drill from scratch? That is the part that has me reluctant to install speakers in the front.

The hard part to me is when you said I would have to drill in the door!!! I mean is it like when you install the factory splash guards in the wheel well and there is those little dimples in the metal that you have to poke to make them actual holes? Or do you just have to drill from scratch? That is the part that has me reluctant to install speakers in the front.

You just drill from scratch, after using the adapter ring to mark where you need new holes. Use a very small drill bit to drill some pilot holes first, then use a larger bit for the actual holes for your screws of choice. I assume you have a drill with the "throttle" so when you press the trigger gently, the drill spins slowly so you don't lose control of it (unlike very old drills that spin at high speed the moment you pull the trigger).

You just drill from scratch, after using the adapter ring to mark where you need new holes. Use a very small drill bit to drill some pilot holes first, then use a larger bit for the actual holes for your screws of choice. I assume you have a drill with the "throttle" so when you press the trigger gently, the drill spins slowly so you don't lose control of it (unlike very old drills that spin at high speed the moment you pull the trigger).

Well that doesnt sound sooo bad I guess... I actually dont own a drill so that is what will be stopping me from putting fronts in at the moment. But when I get one (hopefully cheap) or borrow one, it will be the throttle kind.

The only 7th Gen Accord that offered a separate crossover was the EX V6 6-Speed manual with the 180-watt Premium Audio System. The crossover is attached the back of the stereo and the speaker outputs go into the crossover from the stereo, and then go to the door speakers and tweeters separately.

If I swap the speakers, will a 2-way speaker will sound better than stock? Should I remove the dash tweeters?

Gary Biggs won 7 years in a row w/no rear stage.

A harder argument would be to find a SQ competitor who DOES run rear fill.

Used speakers actually aren't a bad idea if you buy from a reputable person as the speakers would be broken in already.

But where is the fun in that... :D

A harder argument would be to find a SQ competitor who DOES run rear fill.

So the truth is told! Front stage is where its at folks :thmsup:

If I swap the speakers, will a 2-way speaker will sound better than stock? Should I remove the dash tweeters?

Dash tweeters will give sweet high pitch sounds. Why to remove?!.. :D

I added 2 way's in the front and 3 way's in the rear it sounds great!!!

I added 2 way's in the front and 3 way's in the rear it sounds great!!!
That's exactly what id do and tell my friends who are on a budget.

That's exactly what id do and tell my friends who are on a budget.

I'd tell em not to bother with rears at all and just disconnect the stock ones. :D

When you install component speakers in the front, you must re-wire the speakers to include the crossover included with your JBL's. You need to disconnect the factory tweeters and replace them with your JBL tweeters and run new wire from the JBL crossover to the JBL tweeter. You will also run new wire from the JBL crossover to the JBL woofer in the door.

You cannot use the factory wiring because the standard audio system in your Accord does not use a dedicated crossover for the tweeters. Each tweeter has its own resister directly attached to the tweeter. The factory wiring is split to the tweeter and the door, sending a full range signal to both.

When you install new speakers in the doors, you must drill new holes. Yes, the factory speakers are installed with plastic tabs...probably the stupidest idea I have seen in speaker installation. The problem is the curvature of the metal in the door will make it difficult to use the metal tabs normally used to secure a screw for mounting. I placed them behind the door frame and tried not to over-tighten the screws. The aftermarket speakers will screw into the bracket, but don't over-tighten those screws either.

To install component speakers, do I need to run new wires from HU to cross over? Or is it just between crossover/tweeter and crossover/woofer?

If I don't need to run new wires from HU to crossover, how do I connect crossover to HU? Just hook up crossover to existing wire that goes into stock woofer?

Why did you choose 3 way speakers for the rear but not 2 ways???

Also, what is the benefit of installing component speakers over just replacing woofer and tweeter???? If I replace stock front speakers and tweeters quality aftermarket woofer and tweeters, will this be as good as component system?

I'd tell em not to bother with rears at all and just disconnect the stock ones. :D

:thmsup:

:thmsup:
I totally disagree with that.

I totally disagree with that.

Sorry you feel that way. Even the garbage stereo that comes in the Accords sounds better without the rear speakers. First thing I did when I got my new one home was unplugged the rear 6.5s. Rear speakers are simply ways to make a stereo louder, not necessarily better.

To install component speakers, do I need to run new wires from HU to cross over? Or is it just between crossover/tweeter and crossover/woofer?

If I don't need to run new wires from HU to crossover, how do I connect crossover to HU? Just hook up crossover to existing wire that goes into stock woofer?

Why did you choose 3 way speakers for the rear but not 2 ways???

Also, what is the benefit of installing component speakers over just replacing woofer and tweeter???? If I replace stock front speakers and tweeters quality aftermarket woofer and tweeters, will this be as good as component system?

You will need to run wires from your amplifier (your HU amp in this case) to the crossover amp inputs; then you will run dedicated wires to the tweeters and another set to your woofers.

The passive crossovers in a component system divide the full range signal into different frequency ranges for more efficiency and accuracy; also, often speaker manufactures make their components of higher quality and engineering.

An amplifier will bring out the best in speakers; not just loudness, but better detail and clarity, more oomphh, better kick-drum or whatever; even if it is at low volume. That being said, if you will run your speakers off the head unit look for something that has a better sensitivity ratting, and doesn't recommend 100watts RMS :lmao:

Sorry you feel that way. Even the garbage stereo that comes in the Accords sounds better without the rear speakers. First thing I did when I got my new one home was unplugged the rear 6.5s. Rear speakers are simply ways to make a stereo louder, not necessarily better.

You are in the extreme minority. If your theory was correct then all the top luxury cars with high end sound systems would not have rear speakers. Since they all do, then your choice of disconnecting the rears is your opinion.

Adding an amp and sub is how most make their stereo louder and not necessarily better. Most I have heard sound like crap because all they want is a loud stereo that thumps and all you really hear are the body panels rattling.

The purpose of this thread was for improving sound on a budget by simply replacing the stock speakers. By starting out small you'll be surprised on the sound quality improvement with new speakers and nothing else.

I guess you think Pioneer and Alpine make crappy stereos because those are the vendors used by Honda. Pioneer in the 8th Gen and Alpine in 7th Gen with Navi (Panasonic in non-navi). Speakers are the primary reason why stock stereos sound average.

You are in the extreme minority. If your theory was correct then all the top luxury cars with high end sound systems would not have rear speakers. Since they all do, then your choice of disconnecting the rears is your opinion.

Extreme minority of automobile owners? Maybe. Extreme minority of car audio enthusiasts who actually get into the hobby a little farther than just swapping speakers because it's louder and thus better? No sir. You sit in that seat my friend.

Adding an amp and sub is how most make their stereo louder and not necessarily better. Most I have heard sound like crap because all they want is a loud stereo that thumps and all you really hear are the body panels rattling.

LOL, but true.

The purpose of this thread was for improving sound on a budget by simply replacing the stock speakers. By starting out small you'll be surprised on the sound quality improvement with new speakers and nothing else.

And by saving the money on rears and using it towards better front speakers, a better amp, an amp instead of no amp, an EQ, some sound deadening, etc you can improve your sound much more than by slapping a set of whatever into the rear of the car. Period.

I guess you think Pioneer and Alpine make crappy stereos because those are the vendors used by Honda. Pioneer in the 8th Gen and Alpine in 7th Gen with Navi (Panasonic in non-navi). Speakers are the primary reason why stock stereos sound average.

If you honestly think the stereos they manufacture for OEM automotive applications is in ay way indicative of the quality that company puts out then I feel sorry for you. Do I think they make crappy decks and speakers? No. Do I think they make crappy decks and speakers for OEM automotive use? Yes!

OK, if disconnecting rear speaker makes it sounds better, why all the manufacturers put rear speakers in the car? That will be just a waste of money and space. I am no expert in this area, but my common sense tells me that they are there for a reason and I can't think of any other reason other than "to make it sounds better". Tell me if I am wrong.

You will need to run wires from your amplifier (your HU amp in this case) to the crossover amp inputs; then you will run dedicated wires to the tweeters and another set to your woofers.

The passive crossovers in a component system divide the full range signal into different frequency ranges for more efficiency and accuracy; also, often speaker manufactures make their components of higher quality and engineering.

An amplifier will bring out the best in speakers; not just loudness, but better detail and clarity, more oomphh, better kick-drum or whatever; even if it is at low volume. That being said, if you will run your speakers off the head unit look for something that has a better sensitivity ratting, and doesn't recommend 100watts RMS :lmao:

Mine is 2006 accord V6 LX. I hillstones somewhere said that the my front speakers gets full range signal from HU. So why can't I just hook up crossover to the front speaker wire???
I've never ran new speaker wires in my car so I want to avoid it if possible (not to mentioned that I don't want to tear up my car to do it)
I think I can manage to run new wire between speakers and crossover. So I am trying to see if I can do this without running new wires from HU.

Yes. I know that adding an amp is good. But I have no skill to install them. How much do they usually charge you to install an amp and component speakers?

To install component speakers, do I need to run new wires from HU to cross over? Or is it just between crossover/tweeter and crossover/woofer?

If I don't need to run new wires from HU to crossover, how do I connect crossover to HU? Just hook up crossover to existing wire that goes into stock woofer?

Why did you choose 3 way speakers for the rear but not 2 ways???

Also, what is the benefit of installing component speakers over just replacing woofer and tweeter???? If I replace stock front speakers and tweeters quality aftermarket woofer and tweeters, will this be as good as component system?

If you have the standard audio system in your 7th Gen Accord (any model that does not have the 6-speed manual transmission), the front speakers are wired differently than an aftermarket set of component speakers. The wiring for the front speakers split to the door and the tweeter. A separate crossover is not used to reduce the frequency to the tweeter. The tweeters have a resistor attached to them. So you cannot replace the tweeters with an aftermarket tweeter or you will blow them out if you plug them into the factory wiring. Aftermarket component speakers include a dedicated crossover. So you need to run new wire from the head unit to the new crossover. Then from the crossover to the door and to the tweeter.

The benefit of aftermarket component speakers is a better quality speaker and tweeter, and a dedicated crossover for better frequency distribution, resulting in better overall sound. However, they are typically more expensive than buying a two-way speaker for the door. Since the wiring is the way it is in the Accord, you can replace the door speakers with a two-way speaker and leave the factory tweeters plugged in with no harm done. The door speakers will receive a full range signal from the stereo. The factory tweeters have their own resister attached to still function like they normally would. It is much easier replacing the door speaker and not having to worry about re-wiring the speakers.

Why did I choose 3 way JL Audio 6x9's and not the 2 way JL Audio 6x9's? Blame it on JL Audio. Their two-way model has a tweeter that sits too high and will not fit properly because the factory grille won't fit over the top of them. So I had to go with the 3 way model. They are rated equivalently with their two-way model.

If you have the standard audio system in your 7th Gen Accord (any model that does not have the 6-speed manual transmission), the front speakers are wired differently than an aftermarket set of component speakers. The wiring for the front speakers split to the door and the tweeter. A separate crossover is not used to reduce the frequency to the tweeter. The tweeters have a resistor attached to them. So you cannot replace the tweeters with an aftermarket tweeter or you will blow them out if you plug them into the factory wiring. Aftermarket component speakers include a dedicated crossover. So you need to run new wire from the head unit to the new crossover. Then from the crossover to the door and to the tweeter.

The benefit of aftermarket component speakers is a better quality speaker and tweeter, and a dedicated crossover for better frequency distribution, resulting in better overall sound. However, they are typically more expensive than buying a two-way speaker for the door. Since the wiring is the way it is in the Accord, you can replace the door speakers with a two-way speaker and leave the factory tweeters plugged in with no harm done. The door speakers will receive a full range signal from the stereo. The factory tweeters have their own resister attached to still function like they normally would. It is much easier replacing the door speaker and not having to worry about re-wiring the speakers.

Why did I choose 3 way JL Audio 6x9's and not the 2 way JL Audio 6x9's? Blame it on JL Audio. Their two-way model has a tweeter that sits too high and will not fit properly because the factory grille won't fit over the top of them. So I had to go with the 3 way model. They are rated equivalently with their two-way model.

OK, I think I need to clarify.

Here are the options I am thinking about.

Option A. Upgrading front speaker (like you did) + upgrading tweeter (I think most aftermarket tweeters comes with some type of high pass filters. So as long as I use them it should be ok, isn't it?).

Option B. Upgrading with a component system.

I am wondering what's the difference between these two options in terms of sound quality. Will option B gives me better sound? If so, why?

I still don't understand why I need to run a new wire from crossover to HU if I go with component system.
Because the door speakers gets full range signal from HU and all the filtering are done at the crossover, what is wrong with take out wires from existing door speaker and hook them up to crossover then run new wires from there to tweeter and woofers? AS long as I don't use stock tweeter (disconnect it or put component tweeter in place), won't this be OK?

Were you looking at JL Audio VR690-CXi which is 2 way 6x9? Crutchfield says it fits in 7th gen accord. Were you looking at another one?

Extreme minority of automobile owners? Maybe. Extreme minority of car audio enthusiasts who actually get into the hobby a little farther than just swapping speakers because it's louder and thus better? No sir. You sit in that seat my friend.


Guess again. I have never heard of any audio enthusiast only recommend two speakers in the front door and claim to have great sound. I subscribed to Car Stereo Review back in the day (no longer in print) and none of the audio enthusiasts ever recommended front speakers only. If that were the case, then the cars with JBL, Infinity, Bose, Rockford Fosgate, and Nakamichi would all have two speaker stereos and claim to have audiophile quality sound. Instead they have the opposite, speakers throughout the cabin to properly fill the area with sound. But hey, it is your opinion to have front speakers only, and that's cool, that's what you like. You are in the minority because if you go to a car audio show, they don't show off their two speaker sound systems.

You also agreed that most car stereos you hear with the amps and subs sound like crap because loud doesn't always mean better.

If you think an aftermarket Pioneer sounds better than an OEM Pioneer, it is all in your head. If you hook up the same amp and speakers to both units, you will have the same sound. If you keep the OEM speakers and replace the head unit, you will have the same lousy sound. Of course it would be ideal if OEM head units featured pre-amp outputs for easy connection to an amp.

But everyone's preference is different. The majority like to have speakers in front and back, and they know how to use the fader to adjust the sound properly so it doesn't sound louder up front or in back.

I have done the aftermarket stereos, amps, etc. When someone breaks into your car and steals it all (while I was in college), I decided to never waste my money on that again. Also, I would never replace the OEM Navigation system with an aftermarket stereo. I have the peace of mind of never worrying about the stereo getting stolen or the car thrashed by a thief.

I have to agree with all of those that stated that a pair of really great front speakers and no rears is the way to go, IF a sub is used. If not, then the rears can be used for the missing bass. Music is intended to be listened to in a 2.0 (two speakers) or 2.1 (two speakers and a sub) environment. Someone asked if this were true why wouldn't car manufacturer's just install two speakers. Well most people assume more is better. "I can't believe I'm paying all this money for this car and it doesn't even come with rear speakers!". That would be the majority's sentiment.

Guess again. I have never heard of any audio enthusiast only recommend two speakers in the front door and claim to have great sound. I subscribed to Car Stereo Review back in the day (no longer in print) and none of the audio enthusiasts ever recommended front speakers only. If that were the case, then the cars with JBL, Infinity, Bose, Rockford Fosgate, and Nakamichi would all have two speaker stereos and claim to have audiophile quality sound. Instead they have the opposite, speakers throughout the cabin to properly fill the area with sound. But hey, it is your opinion to have front speakers only, and that's cool, that's what you like. You are in the minority because if you go to a car audio show, they don't show off their two speaker sound systems.

Less is more. Have you ever heard a properly done front stage? Ever been to an IASCA, USAC, or MECA SQ event? Show me how many SQ cars run rear fill. Ever been to a live acoustic performance? "Properly fill the area with sound" is a made up term for an argument and has no basis. Neither does using what an automotive manufacturer does with speakers to base your argument on.

If you think an aftermarket Pioneer sounds better than an OEM Pioneer, it is all in your head. If you hook up the same amp and speakers to both units, you will have the same sound.

So you're saying every head unit in production is and sounds exactly the same?!?! Seriously?!?! I hope I misunderstood what you just said here.


If you keep the OEM speakers and replace the head unit, you will have the same lousy sound.

The OEM speakers suck. Absolutely. That I am not arguing. However, if comparing decks the speakers, whether garbage or not, are the constant in the equation so you just again stated that all head units sound the same. Really?

But everyone's preference is different. The majority like to have speakers in front and back, and they know how to use the fader to adjust the sound properly so it doesn't sound louder up front or in back.

Properly adjust a fader? LOL

I could have sworn that this thread was about speaker replacement without breaking the bank.

There are some emotive statements been thrown around that are all technically incorrect in some way but also correct in others. This is confusing to someone new to audio systems and car audio in particular who may be trying to follow this thread.

The debate between aftermarket brand and same brand OEM CD-Amplifier sound is also right and wrong, depending on how much money you are spending.

Which I think is what hillstones was getting at.

Any quality Car audio OEM manufacture who cannot supply a CD-AMP combination that has a +- 1dB frequency response from 20hz to 30khz, a THD of less than 0.02% at a power output of 30w RMS per channel (120w RMS total) should be burned at the altar of audio crap.

NO, they are not High end audiophile specifications but neither are car speakers that won’t break the bank and in that context, even an amplifier that exceeds this spec will sound the same on these speakers. Unless you are deaf and substitute a LOUDER amp which has nothing to do with sound quality – Note, once again talking about four channels.

I said around 120w RMS total because we’re talking about the average aftermarket sound systems NOT a high end system (which can break the bank for a lot of people) hence the title of the thread.

This being the case there should be NO difference between the aftermarket Name brand and the fitted same brand OEM unit.

If there is a difference then please POST here the technical specifications of the average priced aftermarket unit that allows it to reproduce a NOTICIBILITY improved sound in a car fitted with slightly better than average factory speakers when compared to the same brand OEM Audio–CD unit.

Now if you want to talk HIGH end replacements then that is another ball game altogether.

A question though, if the idea of a high quality CAR audio system is the faithful acoustic reproduction of a recorded sound and not shear volume, then why are so many sub’s ported/vented and inactive instead of employing a form of active motional feedback? You do realise that any ported speaker enclosure running much below 30Hz will have a distortion figure above 1%, even more if you can hear it instead of only feeling through your body, even at low power.

Of course we can pick holes in each other’s arguments and go around in circles all day. I have tried to ONLY generalise here, if this were to get into a “real” technical argument then every word we type can be pulled apart and found wanting.

And for the record, I also agree with only front speakers and a SUB but with some important caveats that make it harder to achieve in a budget system.

Guess again. I have never heard of any audio enthusiast only recommend two speakers in the front door and claim to have great sound. I subscribed to Car Stereo Review back in the day (no longer in print) and none of the audio enthusiasts ever recommended front speakers only.

Those magazines are there to get people to buy stuff, you're not going to find anyone in it saying don't bother with rear speakers.

I have done the aftermarket stereos, amps, etc. When someone breaks into your car and steals it all (while I was in college), I decided to never waste my money on that again. Also, I would never replace the OEM Navigation system with an aftermarket stereo. I have the peace of mind of never worrying about the stereo getting stolen or the car thrashed by a thief.

This is why I'm not replacing the stock headunit even though a deck with better DAC's will sound much better and interact more seamlessly with an iPod. Looking in from the side windows everything appears stock.

Again, I am no expert in car audio.
But I did some test this morning while I was driving to work because I've never heard this idea of "better with front speakers only".
I installed the same JL Audio front speakers as hillstone recommended. The rear speaker is OEM (I am still waiting on it)

I set the fade 0 to rear and listened. (Not sure if 0 rear fade kills rear speaker completely though).

It was NOT better at all simply because there was no bass.

Looks like the rear speakers primary purpose is to provide low frequency sound. Without it, I was listening to music with no bass guitar, no bass drum etc...

So my conclusion is that, auto manufacturers put rear speakers for a reason. It's not to make it looked better with more speakers. It's to make it sounds better.

But that does not probably mean that "front speakers only" is wrong.
I don't know but it could sound better if you put some nice sub at the front along with mid and tweeter at the front too.

But is that possible? No. There is no space to put these big speakers at front when it's already filled with other parts.
Then the rear deck is next good choice (or better due to the trunk space) to put these speakers to reproduce low frequency sound. Because the hollow trunk in the back helps speakers to produce good low sound.

There is no tweeters at the rear. The factory rear speakers have only woofers which tells me that it is intended as a mini-SUB.

So disconnecting rear speakers without proper modification is not a good idea.

Maybe it could be better to put everything at front. But a car is not built to serve as a listening room primarily. It is built to be used as a transportation tool. So listening music comes after it.
It is a stupid idea if you have to sacrifice efficient driving control of the car to make it sound better by putting every speakers at front. Hence SUB goes to rear and you NEED it for better sound.

So putting every speakers COULD BE better if it does not degrade the primary purpose of a car.
Putting tweeters and mid-range speakers (like 3 way speaker hillstone put in his rear) may be redundant or may degrade overall sound quality.

To me it looks like that the optimal setting is to put high and mid (small speakers) at front and put some good sub at the rear.

...because I've never heard this idea of "better with front speakers only".

Let's clarify one thing. When making a remark about not using "rear fill" I'm referring to multiple point sources and by that I mean drivers playing the same frequencies like you get with most factory systems where the rear speakers play the same frequencies as the fronts. The newer Accord coupes in some cases have tweeter/mid up front and then mids/sub in back. I'm speaking about those rear mids. Leave the sub by all means. The rear mids though would serve you better if left out and the money used towards your front speakers or one of the other factors like amplification, equalization, sound deadening, etc.

It was NOT better at all simply because there was no bass. This goes along with what I said above and if your car is like mine, in that it's equipped with the rear sub and 2 rear speakers then you also faded the sub out. If you unplug the left and right speakers and leave the sub hooked up you'll get the effect I'm talking about. [/quote]

Looks like the rear speakers primary purpose is to provide low frequency sound. Without it, I was listening to music with no bass guitar, no bass drum etc...

In the case of the sub, yes. In the case of the rear left/right mids they throw in it is not as they are typically playing the same frequencies as your front speakers. In that case what other function could there be other than simply making it louder?

Maybe I didn't word myself clearly and some of you missed the point I'm trying to make. Multiple point sources are bad. There is, and can be, no argument for that. Now if Honda, or whoever, was clever enough to do your tweeter+midrange/midbass up front and then added a midBASS with proper xover settings or inline resistors in place of the more or less full range drivers in the rear deck then I'd be less against this. However they don't.

I'm not proposing some quasi logic of car audio here and I know some guys on here like to jump on my case and try and trounce my theories but if you really sit down and think about it, or better yet go listen to a car done right, you'd begin seeing my point. What I'm proposing is also less complicated and cheaper than replacing the rear speakers so there's another cause to actually give this a try before labeling me as some jackass who doesn't have a clue what he's talking about. The 100 bucks spent on rear speakers could be spent on sound deadening to use on the doors and floor up front that would improve your sound and in addition to that your ride quality as well due to the reduced noise floor in the car.

Now without being a pompous asshole here I spent a ton of money through the years on various equipment for each install. I've never run rear speakers (aside from a sub) in any of the installs. I recently spent a lot of time and money locating and importing a rare deck/processor from Japan for my next system. I won't run rear speakers this time either. If I spend this much time/money/hours working on the stereo to achieve the best sound I personally can why would I commit such blasphemy like removing rears? Seriously guys if you get the chance to try it or hear it, do it! You'll appreciate what you hear. :thmsup:

Now that were sort of on the same page I would like to add a couple of comments if I may. The problem with giving answers for the best system is really difficult because there are so many variations in expectations, personal situations and the desired end use and/or result.

It was NOT better at all simply because there was no bass. Looks like the rear speakers primary purpose is to provide low frequency sound. Without it, I was listening to music with no bass guitar, no bass drum etc…… So disconnecting rear speakers without proper modification is not a good idea.

Absolutely correct. This is why it’s hard to do the front speaker only without a pair of really good quality front speakers and/ or a SUB with a quality amplifier/equaliser system to drive them. In most cars this will entail special mounting and reinforcing/sealing in and around the door to help eliminate panel flexing and vibration which will lead to standing wave resonances and colouration of the sound, chamber volume (internal door volume) should also be adjusted to match the speaker.

This lack of matched enclosure around most OEM rear parcel shelf speaker installations is why they sound so coloured, peaky and tiring to listen to in most cars.

Maybe I didn't word myself clearly and some of you missed the point I'm trying to make. Multiple point sources are bad. There is, and can be, no argument for that. Now if Honda, or whoever, was clever enough to do your tweeter+midrange/midbass up front and then added a midBASS with proper xover settings or inline resistors in place of the more or less full range drivers in the rear deck then I'd be less against this. However they don't.

Absolutely correct. This is why a sub works so well up the back. As the audio frequencies get lower the directivity of the sound changes and lower frequencies are not perceived as a directional sound source by the ear. The most important frequency range for High quality reproduction (sound definition and clarity) is between 200Hz and 6kHz, and No, I am not saying that is the only part of the audio spectrum that you have to get right.

As RSobkowz said “Multiple point sources are bad” and herein lies the difficulty with the end purpose of the audio system. It places some limitations on/and trade off’s between what is ideal and what is realistic for your daily drive and end use.

When someone is in the back of a car listening to music then the front only with rear SUB is not ideal. I think Quality front and rear door speakers with a SUB would be ideal, allowing the rear door speakers to be switched off if desired. I haven’t forgotten tweeters but they need another long winded description (I’ve waffled on enough already) with choices to be made on a cost effective verses quality, placement and complete system design with passive or electronic xover, bi-amp, tri-amp, digital v analog processing with phase equalisation/compensation/delay etc.

This is such a complex, passionate and subjective topic and like everything with cars, at least for most of us, it usually has to be made on a cost/compromise and end use basis.


If I spend this much time/money/hours working on the stereo to achieve the best sound I personally can why would I commit such blasphemy like removing rears? Seriously guys if you get the chance to try it or hear it, do it! You'll appreciate what you hear.


I'm with you, I have and when implemented correctly it really does sound sweet. :thmsup:

I wonder if the original OP is sorry he asked that first innocent question :biggrin:

If the car I'm driving were newer I'd run separates in the front with the tweeters flush mounted at the top of the door panel and linear the the woofers. I would have no rears, and I'd have a sub in the trunk. My car is a 2000 Accord with 100k miles on it though so I won't be doing that. I have replaced the HU and will replace the fronts with coaxials for highs and mids and use the rears to simulate a sub. I will probably disconnect the stock tweeters. This is not my ideal setup, just a cost effective upgrade similar to what the OP has done.

I have just finished with upgrading my speakers.

I put JL AUDIO TR600-CXI 6" 2-WAY in the front doors ($80) and 2 NEW JL AUDIO VR690-CXi 6"X9" 2 WAY in the rear deck ($150). They sounds better than expected. I did not have to spend a lot of dollars like I did with my previous car. (Infinity component speakers with AMP and a small sub in the trunk.) but it gives me quality sound just as much as I need.

I did all the install myself so I did not spend any on installation labor. For the just a fraction of the cost of full audio upgrade, I believe that this is a very good bang for the buck. Also, this is a lot easier than full audio upgrade. You don't have to run new wires all over your car so it saves a lot of labor.

In the end, I think my money is well spent.

By the way, can someone recommend what I should do with stock tweeter? It's still connected. Should I disconnect it? Or should I upgrade it with some quality aftermarket tweeter???

Couple points

1) OEM speakers use neodymium magnets, very powerful. Size does not matter in this case. ;)

2) I can attest to the fact that most if not all competition cars at IASCA use front stage only. Rear fills are only there to entertain the back passengers. Put the speakers where you want the sound to come from. Very simple concept.

3) Do keep in mind aftermarket speakers are far less efficient than OEM speakers. That means you actually get less power going into the speakers.

Couple points

1) OEM speakers use neodymium magnets, very powerful. Size does not matter in this case. ;)

2) I can attest to the fact that most if not all competition cars at IASCA use front stage only. Rear fills are only there to entertain the back passengers. Put the speakers where you want the sound to come from. Very simple concept.

3) Do keep in mind aftermarket speakers are far less efficient than OEM speakers. That means you actually get less power going into the speakers.
Most dont change therir speakers from stock using the stock deck for more power. They do it to get better clarity. Being that the rear speakers are full range, you benefit from added clarity when switching to 2/3-way drivers.

I have just finished with upgrading my speakers.

I put JL AUDIO TR600-CXI 6" 2-WAY in the front doors ($80) and 2 NEW JL AUDIO VR690-CXi 6"X9" 2 WAY in the rear deck ($150). They sounds better than expected. I did not have to spend a lot of dollars like I did with my previous car. (Infinity component speakers with AMP and a small sub in the trunk.) but it gives me quality sound just as much as I need.

I did all the install myself so I did not spend any on installation labor. For the just a fraction of the cost of full audio upgrade, I believe that this is a very good bang for the buck. Also, this is a lot easier than full audio upgrade. You don't have to run new wires all over your car so it saves a lot of labor.

In the end, I think my money is well spent.

By the way, can someone recommend what I should do with stock tweeter? It's still connected. Should I disconnect it? Or should I upgrade it with some quality aftermarket tweeter???
Keep the stock tweeters. the do nothing but heighten the soundstage which is a good thing. Hearing sound only coming from your legs wont benefit. The stock tweeters are up high at almost face level giving you the perception that the sound is right in front of you. You did great swaps. You did the right thing in my book. I hope you're loving the new sounds.

High Frequency drivers (tweeters) are usually (not always) very directional some by design and all because of the nature of sound in that hi range. I mention this because that is one reason why the HF drivers are placed on the top of the dash; this also reflects the sound off the wind screen and back into the cabin.

HF sound is absorbed by plush fittings, people, clothes and upholstery. It reflects of hard surfaces. So, one thing to watch when installing Tweeters is the dispersion pattern of any HF driver mounted low in the door.

Jamesflames idea of high door mounting and attempting to get the alignment plane of the tweeters referenced to the Low/Mid unit is a good idea. Of course trying to get phase alignment by this means alone may or may not yield the desired result, still a great idea though.

thelinix and others have also gone the road most of us go when trying to keep cost low and get a better sound that the OEM stuff.

In a high end "front speaker only" system "if a sub is used” it would usually be in the rear, there is no need to move a bulky item to the front, as I said before “sub bass” is not really a directional sound source.

With respect to size though, a small 10” active, motional feedback sub in an enclosure about 1” or 2” bigger than the speaker, has a frequency response ruler flat from 20Hz to 90Hz. But you need over 400 watts RMS to reproduce 20Hz at a moderately painful level.

Also on the boot providing a resonant partly sealed enclosure for the 6x9 rear deck speakers. This is of course why they are put there by manufactures, however this is also the main reason why they can sound muddy or floppy when reproducing music and why an equaliser is needed to tame this “from a technical standpoint” badly designed speaker / enclosure combination.

Have I got this setup? Yes. Why? Because I don’t have the time or spare funds to do it correctly at this time. The sound is ok, it’s not HI-FI but my wife loves the music and she’s happy, therefore, I must be happy!!!!. Sigh! :thmsup:

There is room for all levels of sound enjoyment and trying different things is all part of the fun. It is useful though to see how the high end sound systems are built and designed.

Just remember to try and separate the boom, boom (loud as you can get) sounds systems from the real quality car installations like RSobkowz, which can also be very loud though. :D

Adding my own few cents to the pile o' pennies:

I've been involved in sound mixing in the film & TV industry for over a decade, as a sound recordist and occasionally rerecording mixer.

The original purpose of sound reproduction systems is to reproduce the recording faithfully - that means, as close as possible to the way its creator intended it to sound. The vast majority of recorded music (practically everything except SA-CD or Audio DVD) is mixed in stereo. From what I've learned, the engineers and producers who create the sound (the stereo mix) listen to it mainly on 2 speakers. Stereo means 2 speakers, and that's what home sound systems had for decades.

More speakers are called for when there are more audio channels to reproduce. Home theater systems have 6-8 speakers to play back surround mixes, not stereo. Engineers take care to create two completely different mixes for stereo and surround, because the listening environments are so different.

When you're playing back a stereo mix with more than a 2.1 setup, your system is doing its own interpolation (or interpretation) of the mix. When you're playing music in your car with rear-mounted speakers, it's your interpretation. With all that said, we can do whatever we want with the music - I like some rear speakers because I conciously want to be surrounded by the music, not just in front of it - just be aware that you're not accurately reproducing it the way it was made to be heard.

IMHO the vast majority people don't give a damn about the sound in their cars (how many of your relatives do?). We're discussing speaker elements and amplification paths, while people drive with busted speakers or torn paper cones. The rear speakers might have well been introduced to cars because mommy and daddy wanted some peace while the kids listened to their Sesamee Street tape in the back.

Every time there is a post about improving the stereo while on a budget, it always turns into adding amps and subs and that is NOT working on a budget. You can't add an amp, sub and new speakers for $200.

Nothing wrong with a good debate about what different preferences are, but the point of the thread was to show that when you are on a tight budget, you can improve the sound with a speaker replacement. Even that is better than sticking with the OEM full range speakers.

I think you all could agree that if all you can do is replace the speakers, that is better than doing nothing. My stereo sounds a lot better with 4 new speakers.

Most dont change therir speakers from stock using the stock deck for more power. They do it to get better clarity. Being that the rear speakers are full range, you benefit from added clarity when switching to 2/3-way drivers.


Exactly. That is the primary reason I don't need to listen to the music loud. As I am getting older, my ears can't take too loud or too harsh sound.

I just want better sound rather than louder sound. I don't want to turn up the volume but still I want to listen all the details of the sound. So I needed better speaker. Yes, as someone said, adding an amp will get me better sound at low volume too.

But you can't have everything you want. So I settled with speaker upgrade only.

Keep the stock tweeters. the do nothing but heighten the soundstage which is a good thing. Hearing sound only coming from your legs wont benefit. The stock tweeters are up high at almost face level giving you the perception that the sound is right in front of you. You did great swaps. You did the right thing in my book. I hope you're loving the new sounds.

Thanks. How about replacing stock tweeters with good aftermarket tweeters? Will it give me better sound? Will it be worth the money??

Maybe I don't need new tweeters as I already added 4 new tweeters all around???

Every time there is a post about improving the stereo while on a budget, it always turns into adding amps and subs and that is NOT working on a budget. You can't add an amp, sub and new speakers for $200.

Nothing wrong with a good debate about what different preferences are, but the point of the thread was to show that when you are on a tight budget, you can improve the sound with a speaker replacement. Even that is better than sticking with the OEM full range speakers.

I think you all could agree that if all you can do is replace the speakers, that is better than doing nothing. My stereo sounds a lot better with 4 new speakers.

I absolutely agree.

The best sound improvement you can get with a tight budget and time, is just replacing speakers. Cheap, easy to do and you don't need expert knowledge in car stereo. Besides, you can keep your car's look stock, if that's what you want.

Might be a stupid question but how did you get the speakers out of the front doors with those plastic rings? I took a quick peek at them when i was replacing my window motor because i was planning on replacing speakers much like you did at some point but i couldn't figure out how to pull the whole shebang out. do you have to turn/pull them in a certain direction to get them out? Also, i don't pretend to know about 90% of what people are saying in this thread because i don't know anything about wiring sound systems but is just replacing speakers like you did basically plug-n-play or is there wiring you have to set up?

Might be a stupid question but how did you get the speakers out of the front doors with those plastic rings? I took a quick peek at them when i was replacing my window motor because i was planning on replacing speakers much like you did at some point but i couldn't figure out how to pull the whole shebang out. do you have to turn/pull them in a certain direction to get them out? Also, i don't pretend to know about 90% of what people are saying in this thread because i don't know anything about wiring sound systems but is just replacing speakers like you did basically plug-n-play or is there wiring you have to set up?

The tab on the top of the speaker pushes down, then the speaker angles out towards you from the top. The bottoms are just hooked into the door frame. You need to buy the adapter rings and re-drill holes. I bought the speaker harnesses to make them plug and play. It is really easy.

The tab on the top of the speaker pushes down, then the speaker angles out towards you from the top. The bottoms are just hooked into the door frame. You need to buy the adapter rings and re-drill holes. I bought the speaker harnesses to make them plug and play. It is really easy.

Let me add one more tip.
Once you loosen the top clip like hillstones told, to un-loose bottom two clips, you pull the whole thing up. Don't bend it toward you. Because I did not know how it was hooked to the door I just pulled down toward myself and broke two bottom clips.

Remember, it's PULL UP (90 degree from ground) for bottom tabs.

Also, to drill a hole on the door, get some tapping screw for metal (Not for wood) from home depot. These screw works as a drill bit also works as a screw at the same time. It's very convenient. You just use it like regular screw with power drill. It will easily drill a hole on the metal.

That is what I meant, slightly angle them towards you, and lift out. Since the speakers are such crap, I don't think any harm would be done if you broke a clip on the speaker itself. The top clip can snap just trying to get it released anyway.

I went to a local audio place and they said to get my factory fronts out they would have to rivet them out...

Sound plausible at all?

thanks for the heads up. like i said i just took a quick look at the trying to use foresight for when i replace my speakers but seeing as i had bigger fish to fry at the time i just kind of pulled at them a little bit but this will save me oodles of time just oodles!

I went to a local audio place and they said to get my factory fronts out they would have to rivet them out...

Sound plausible at all?

That is an audio place that has never worked on an Accord before. So run like hell out of that place. What a bunch of dumbasses. The factory door speakers are held in by a single metal clip at the top of the speaker! Push the clip down with a flathead screwdriver, tilt the speaker out, and lift out of the door. Look at my pics on the first post, especially the second pic. Metal clip on the top, and two plastic tabs at the bottom. That is an audio shop trying to screw you on labor!

That is an audio place that has never worked on an Accord before. So run like hell out of that place. What a bunch of dumbasses. The factory door speakers are held in by a single metal clip at the top of the speaker! Push the clip down with a flathead screwdriver, tilt the speaker out, and lift out of the door. Look at my pics on the first post, especially the second pic. Metal clip on the top, and two plastic tabs at the bottom. That is an audio shop trying to screw you on labor!

Ok I guess I will be trying an install on my own... Fwiw they only wanted to charge my $40 for a complete install (labor)

that's why I started doing my own stuff like 30 years ago, I was poor and the only installers worth a crap were too expensive. Now I only have them do stuff that I am just not capable of doing.

what tools did you use to take off the door panels?

what tools did you use to take off the door panels?

I borrowed a folk from my wife and wrapped it with some cloth. You just need to take off only 1 or 2 clips then you will have enough space to put your fingers under the panel. From then you just pull it with your hand.

I borrowed a folk from my wife

Was it like a kin-folk ?

Was it like a kin-folk ?

sorry. a fork from IKEA. A knife should work too.

Hey all, so I'm looking to replace my blown stock speakers and am looking to purchase these speakers for all four speakers on my 2003 Accord EX coupe.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16492_Pioneer+TS-A6963R.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_13978_Pioneer+TS-A1372R.html

What I was wondering was,

1) Would these all fit in my car? Sonic says yes but I'm not too sure about the dimensions

2) Also, would I need to buy additional components to support these speakers like an amp and a new head unit (cuz i'm looking to keep the headunit, but maybe open to buying an amp)?

Any help you guys can provide would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Hey all, so I'm looking to replace my blown stock speakers and am looking to purchase these speakers for all four speakers on my 2003 Accord EX coupe.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16492_Pioneer+TS-A6963R.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_13978_Pioneer+TS-A1372R.html

What I was wondering was,

1) Would these all fit in my car? Sonic says yes but I'm not too sure about the dimensions

2) Also, would I need to buy additional components to support these speakers like an amp and a new head unit (cuz i'm looking to keep the headunit, but maybe open to buying an amp)?

Any help you guys can provide would be much appreciated. Thanks.
These will sound very good on stock deck. The sensetivity is very good (above 90db). The will play louder/clearer than the stock speakers did. You can also add an amp later. If you choose to, a 50x4 amp would work perfect. But not needed. Take a listen w/o amp then you decide after. Do dyna-mat too to get the most bass you can from them.

Des,

Thanks A&F, just wondering, do you think I'll be able to install the speakers myself even if i have no real experience in dealing with car audio? I have limited tools also...

Thanks A&F, just wondering, do you think I'll be able to install the speakers myself even if i have no real experience in dealing with car audio? I have limited tools also...
Should be able to but i'd def follow the DIY threads for installing your speakers so youll know what tools you need. Most likely a phillips and a small flathead to seperate the door panel from the door as they are help by reusable plugs.

BTW, Not being an ass but My name is in my sig. for a reason...lol. You can use it...

Thanks A&F, just wondering, do you think I'll be able to install the speakers myself even if i have no real experience in dealing with car audio? I have limited tools also...

Door panel removal: Philips head and small flat head screw driver for removing screws, trim plate behind handle and window/door lock button assembly. Go to Kragen and get a Trim Panel Removal tool. You can break clips using a screwdriver when trying to release the clips to remove the door panel. In the main forum, go to the bottom and you will find instructions per model year. In the appropriate folder, you should find door panel removal instructions.

Speakers: Follow my first post and get the adapter rings and speaker harnesses. Self-tapping metal screws also help with the adapter rings. If you can plug in a harness and operate a power drill, you can install the speakers yourself. (The rear deck does not require any drilling). Or, check eBay and you will find speaker adapter rings that are designed to use the factory clips. Wish I had those! Rear speakers: remove factory grille (held by four clips, inside trunk, squeeze them with your finger and push up at the same time to release them). Remove rear speaker, plug in new speaker, use existing hardware to bolt them down, replace factory grille.

I found an oem look indash gps for accord 2003-2007, anyone wonna try it

http://www.autosoul.cn/procuctview.a...758&classid=51

I found an oem look indash gps for accord 2003-2007, anyone wonna try it

http://www.autosoul.cn/procuctview.a...758&classid=51

The link doesn't exist, and it has nothing to do with the thread topic.

The only 7th Gen Accord that offered a separate crossover was the EX V6 6-Speed manual with the 180-watt Premium Audio System.

The crossover is attached the back of the stereo and the speaker outputs go into the crossover from the stereo, and then go to the door speakers and tweeters separately...All other Hondas don't, allowing you to replace the door speakers without loss of signal quality.

Sorry to bring it back up, but I've read the thread and am still a little confused.

I have the 6 speed with the 'premium' audio. If I am trying to replace my fronts, am I better off just getting a mid-woofer or woofer since the high signal won't be going to it anyway?

Does anyone know the impedence?

I am just browsing partsexpress.com for mids/woofers but I don't want to puy the wrong thing.

The rears I assume are exactly the same as the 'non-premium' and any correctly sized speaker should work, correct?

Sorry to bring it back up, but I've read the thread and am still a little confused.

I have the 6 speed with the 'premium' audio. If I am trying to replace my fronts, am I better off just getting a mid-woofer or woofer since the high signal won't be going to it anyway?

Does anyone know the impedence?

I am just browsing partsexpress.com for mids/woofers but I don't want to puy the wrong thing.

The rears I assume are exactly the same as the 'non-premium' and any correctly sized speaker should work, correct?
Okay if you want to go an easier route just get the seperates you like and just install. use the stock x-overs if you want. If u want to use the stock x-over, just wire the woofer in an put in tweeters. save the x-over than came with the speakers in the box.

The rear speakers are full range speakers, no crossovers no tweeters.

Sorry guys, I must be slow this morning.

I now realize I can buy separates/components and mount the tweeter any where I'd like using either the stock or included crossover (and it sounds like the crossover is near the factory speaker.)

But, if I want to retain the stock tweeter & stock x-over, and only replace the woofer, would the woofer/mid out of a component speaker set work?

I know in the home audio world the crossovers can send your signal/power with the desired # of ohms based on crossover design.

What I don't want is the stock crossover sending 4(?) ohms to tweeter & 4 to woofer, and the JBL crossover designed to send 6 to the woofer and 4 to the tweeter.

Its a long shot, but does anyone know?

I'm thinking it may be easier to stick with stock or buy a component set & mount a new tweeter in a pod....

The crossover on the premium head unit is attached to the back of the head unit. It is an unmarked black box. So you have to pull your stereo to re-wire. If you want components in the front, re-wire your front speakers, ditch the factory crossover, use the crossovers that come with the new speakers, and install your new components...both woofer and tweeter in the factory locations.

^ Yikes...

Okay, since I don't see myself doing that, I'm going to try and see if I can measure the impedance of the still-functional door speaker so I know what to replace it with & keep it the factory tweeter.

^ Yikes...

Okay, since I don't see myself doing that, I'm going to try and see if I can measure the impedance of the still-functional door speaker so I know what to replace it with & keep it the factory tweeter.
4/8 ohm speakers are fine bro... 4ohm will give you more volume that 8ohm from the stock deck. OEM speakers are 4ohm so it's best to stay with that.

HELLLLLOOOOO, need help my screen on my radio got smashed dont ask!!! question is does anyone know a way of repair for the lcd... dual climate factory deck.... question 2.... the whole NAVI install that is done there.. where and how much did u spend on the unit... and is it china manufactured?? tried to search that exact one but having trouble finding it... any help regarding this will be much appreciated.. thanks...


PS: anyone wanna sell their old factory dual climate OEM unit.. the whole radio please post back...

05 accord EX-R

Any better working systems? idk anything about systems =\

I love the Bose system in Infiniti

HELLLLLOOOOO, need help my screen on my radio got smashed dont ask!!! question is does anyone know a way of repair for the lcd... dual climate factory deck.... question 2.... the whole NAVI install that is done there.. where and how much did u spend on the unit... and is it china manufactured?? tried to search that exact one but having trouble finding it... any help regarding this will be much appreciated.. thanks...


PS: anyone wanna sell their old factory dual climate OEM unit.. the whole radio please post back...

05 accord EX-R


could you make the font a little bigger, I couldn't quite see it :D

The cost of having the unit repaired will probably be as much or more than a used one from somewhere. Accords are popular cars, checks the classieds and junk yards in your area.

HELLLLLOOOOO, need help my screen on my radio got smashed dont ask!!!





:dunno:

HELLLLLOOOOO, need help my screen on my radio got smashed dont ask!!! question is does anyone know a way of repair for the lcd... dual climate factory deck.... question 2.... the whole NAVI install that is done there.. where and how much did u spend on the unit... and is it china manufactured?? tried to search that exact one but having trouble finding it... any help regarding this will be much appreciated.. thanks...


PS: anyone wanna sell their old factory dual climate OEM unit.. the whole radio please post back...

05 accord EX-R

Your question has nothing to do with this topic. Perhaps you should create a new topic or use the search function. Have you ever used eBay before? You can find a replacement stereo on eBay. The seller OEMCarAudio is a great source and some of his units are new.

^ Yikes...

Okay, since I don't see myself doing that, I'm going to try and see if I can measure the impedance of the still-functional door speaker so I know what to replace it with & keep it the factory tweeter.

Did you do this install? I also have the 6on6 man. w/ premium, and would like to change out the speakers (I never owned a car where a cross over was built in stock). I guess I could buy the separates and just disconnect the crossover behind the stock deck while installing the ipod adapter. Or, I could just go your route and replace the door speaker. I just wanted to see if you did this and like the sound.

If I decided to change out the fronts completely, where do you think the best place for cross overs to be? The rears would also be changed out to some two-ways correct? This is my wife's daily drive, so anything would make her happy.

Any other ideas throw them out. I don't wanna spend more than $300-$400 on the whole upgrade.