has anyone ordered this for an Injen intake and had to cut or modify to fit the intake properly?

kaitlin has it

The installation of the AEM bypass valve requires cutting out I think about an inch of the pipe itself in order for it to be installed correctly and still fit in the same place. This is something that can cause problems for some people, and also sway others from even trying to buy and install it.

The installation of the AEM bypass valve requires cutting out I think about an inch of the pipe itself in order for it to be installed correctly and still fit in the same place. This is something that can cause problems for some people, and also sway others from even trying to buy and install it.

+1 I have it. You have to cut about an inch of the pipe.

which pipe did you cut 1 inch off of? the one connected to the sensor or the pipe going down to the filter

The pipe going down to the filter. If you already have the CAI then what I would suggest is take the bottom pipe off and convert it to an SRI, while a shop/professional cuts it down. That way you can test out the SRI as well.

i don't mean to jack the thread (sorry op,) but i too am in this same boat..

how do you guys feel about those filter covers from ptuning.com? useful or useless?

sorry again! just didn't think i should start a new thread about this..

i don't mean to jack the thread (sorry op,) but i too am in this same boat..

how do you guys feel about those filter covers from ptuning.com? useful or useless?

sorry again! just didn't think i should start a new thread about this..

huh?

huh?

lol.. i saw on ptuning.com some filter covers for the intakes.. it's supposed to help keep water from being sucked into the engine like the by-pass..

so my question is how do you guys feel about those?

:yes:

lol.. i saw on ptuning.com some filter covers for the intakes.. it's supposed to help keep water from being sucked into the engine like the by-pass..

so my question is how do you guys feel about those?

:yes:

u talking about these? i dont understand how that can stop water from being sucked in

http://www.ptuning.com/graphics/injen/hydroshield.jpg

might as well use pantyhose

u talking about these? i dont understand how that can stop water from being sucked in

http://www.ptuning.com/graphics/injen/hydroshield.jpg

hahaha.. yeah that and ok i guess i have my answer on that.. :notworthy

thanks!

THATS what the hydroshield is. LOL. Wtf.

What is everyone's opinion about using something like this to deflect water?

http://www.clubrsx.com/graphics/00000001/INJ-HS3500.jpg

What is everyone's opinion about using something like this to deflect water?

http://www.clubrsx.com/graphics/00000001/INJ-HS3500.jpg

okay first off water sprinkling to the filter is not gonna mess up ur car, its when the filter dips into a puddle and slurps it up. that defector is gonna do nothing when the front of ur car hits a puddle and the water just travels around that thing.

okay first off water sprinkling to the filter is not gonna mess up ur car, its when the filter dips into a puddle and slurps it up. that defector is gonna do nothing when the front of ur car hits a puddle and the water just travels around that thing.

You still believe it takes filter submersion to mess up the car?

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=29915

There's one thread and I know I've seen others where a little splash is causing some close calls. Car washes too. I was thinking this shield could be positioned to block any water that could splash up from the bottom. On the V6, the filter is in the bumper next to the fog light. Maybe it's different for the 4 bangers.

yea prolly, ive driven my car in pouring rain with major puddles and no problem. But i do cruise thru the puddles

The funny thing is, you guys talk about all these problems with CAI's and hydrolock, yet I've driven my TL-S with a filter in the exact same position as the Accord's have it through water running over the curbs here in Plano, and been completely fine. Everyone has their own story to it.

What I will also throw out to you guys is the fact that I have also had friends install AEM bypass valves, and 2 years down the road, when the filter dries out and starts to crumble, on many occasions have had the cars suck in the dried filter material and cause just as much damage as hydrolocking their car.

There's not a fool-proof solution if you are scared of the risks, besides getting a SRI or keeping your stock intake on there.

eh it never rains over here anyways so im not bothered about it and when raining season comes ill just switch it to ram air, no biggie

Must be the layout of the splash guards and inside of the bumper are different on the TL :dunno:. I've heard many stories of people driving for years with a particular car and CAI with no problems. Driving conditions remaining the same, they get a new car and install a CAI and have issues going through puddles. I agree, there's no fool proof solution.

From what I can see, there's just as much cover from the bottom of the front end of the car as on my TL. I used to check how wet my filter was by sticking my fingers up a hole on the underbody of my TL.
I also ran it plenty of times with my fogs out (same idea as taking out the OEM fogs or fog light fillers on our cars) without any problems.

Bypass valves are a good option, but with every addition there are risks.

Hey Kaitlin, where did u purchase your bypass valve, size, and how much does it cost to cut an inch off the pipe. Thanks

The funny thing is, you guys talk about all these problems with CAI's and hydrolock, yet I've driven my TL-S with a filter in the exact same position as the Accord's have it through water running over the curbs here in Plano, and been completely fine. Everyone has their own story to it.

What I will also throw out to you guys is the fact that I have also had friends install AEM bypass valves, and 2 years down the road, when the filter dries out and starts to crumble, on many occasions have had the cars suck in the dried filter material and cause just as much damage as hydrolocking their car.

There's not a fool-proof solution if you are scared of the risks, besides getting a SRI or keeping your stock intake on there.

Why would you leave the same filter for 2 years? You are supposed to change the stock one every year. If anything you should change it more often since it is more exposed. Seems like having a dried filter sucked in your engine is user error...

You still believe it takes filter submersion to mess up the car?

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=29915

There's one thread and I know I've seen others where a little splash is causing some close calls. Car washes too. I was thinking this shield could be positioned to block any water that could splash up from the bottom. On the V6, the filter is in the bumper next to the fog light. Maybe it's different for the 4 bangers.

It's impossible for a carwash to cause problems with a cold air in regards to sucking up air. Air can only be sucked up with it is accelerating, which would be when the car is on. I don't know what you do in car washes but my car is always off :dunno:




What I will also throw out to you guys is the fact that I have also had friends install AEM bypass valves, and 2 years down the road, when the filter dries out and starts to crumble, on many occasions have had the cars suck in the dried filter material and cause just as much damage as hydrolocking their car. .

Well that's your friends fault for leaving a filter in for 2 years!! You're supposed to change it every year, I would say year and a half at the most.


Hey Kaitlin, where did u purchase your bypass valve, size, and how much does it cost to cut an inch off the pipe. Thanks

I bought it from www.autoanything.com
Get the piping that is 3 inches in diameter.
My friend at Honda cut it for me for free. If you find someone that has some kind of saw cutter then you can just use that.

okkkkk a lotta nonsense here.

dry filters don't dry out, so no crumbling there. you know, the stock filter is dry too! anyone who claims there filter crumbled obviously didnt know what they were talking about. perhaps they installed it poorly and something got in. i changed the air filter on my father's car a year ago for the first time since he bought the car in 2001. funny, his lasted 7 years...

i never once treated my filter on my mustang either, and that lasted forever.

as far as hydrolocking, the car would HAVE to be submerged. i've had my car through many automatic car washes. i live in south florida and my car has stood up to hurricane like weather. ive been through massively deep puddles several times (just rolled through reallly slow, one foot on the brake, less than idle speed). i did that in my mustang as well, many times.

filters don't need to be changed, aftermarket ones are designed to last many years. they just need to be cleaned occasionally. stock filters get replaced because they are not washable, and the ruffles get bent.

okkkkk a lotta nonsense here.

dry filters don't dry out, so no crumbling there. you know, the stock filter is dry too! anyone who claims there filter crumbled obviously didnt know what they were talking about. perhaps they installed it poorly and something got in. i changed the air filter on my father's car a year ago for the first time since he bought the car in 2001. funny, his lasted 7 years...

i never once treated my filter on my mustang either, and that lasted forever.

as far as hydrolocking, the car would HAVE to be submerged. i've had my car through many automatic car washes. i live in south florida and my car has stood up to hurricane like weather. ive been through massively deep puddles several times (just rolled through reallly slow, one foot on the brake, less than idle speed). i did that in my mustang as well, many times.

filters don't need to be changed, aftermarket ones are designed to last many years. they just need to be cleaned occasionally. stock filters get replaced because they are not washable, and the ruffles get bent.

He was probably referring to an oil filter.. which i would think needs to be replaced or re-oiled.

So you guys are saying that those of you who have/plan to install a bypass valve, you are going to change the filter on the end of the intake as well as the bypass filter every year? $40 bypass valve + $50 filter = $90/year? That's ridiculous.

Kait's right, oil-ed filters can be recleaned and re-oiled, but dry flow filters cannot be simply cleaned and reused since they use a different type of material that usually doesn't respond well to water.

Kait's right, oil-ed filters can be recleaned and re-oiled, but dry flow filters cannot be simply cleaned and reused since they use a different type of material that usually doesn't respond well to water.

they can be cleaned with a mild soap and warm water, it's recommended ever 20K miles i think.

http://www.aemintakes.com/air_filter_cleaning_instructions.htm

though, i don't think it's terribly important to use their product.

more on the dry filter:
http://www.aemintakes.com/dryflow_air_filters.htm