whats a normal oil pressure reading for my 95 accord?

A general minimum operating oil pressure for most engines is 10 psi per 1000 revs.

A VTEC Honda will have higher, a minimum of 70 psi at specified RPM is needed to operate the system.

FredSVT:

I tend to agree with you. However...

Bear in mind that pressure (and volume) are a function of either "absolute" or "relative" viscosity, depending upon temperature.

Assuming new oil, you won't get the same readings with 0W-20, 5W-20, 10W-30, 10W-40, 20W-50, and so forth. Ingredients added to "stretch" viscosity range (i.e., the long-chain polymers) make each oil behave rather differently.

I might add that, conventional petroleum (pure hydrocarbon based) and fully-synthetic oils (involving aromatic ester composition) do NOT behave the same way. While fully-synthetic oils will tend to be very stable, the "Dinosaur" oils will typically fluctuate. The "Dino" oils will decompose at a much faster rate than any fully-synthetic oil, thus directly affecting system pressure.

Bearing clearances (rod and crank) also directly influence overall system pressure. "Loose" motors (with greater bearing clearances) generally "rev" better. But they also require a heavier-weight oil, involving a higher VOLUME, to pull heat away, faster. Conversely "tight" motors generally require a "thin" baseline viscosity. Ergo, IF I wanted to destroy my 02's "J30," on a cold January day, I'd fill the crankcase with (for example) Castrol 20W-50. :eek:

Also, WHERE you take pressure readings. At the oil filter? Or at the oil pump, itself? :scratch:

The "ideal" situation is NO contact between rod bearings and the crank. (Given angular dynamics, generated by piston force, rods take the biggest load.) And NO contact between the crank jounals and (block) main bearings. In "theory," every part should "float" on a thin film of oil. But, of course, in the real world, we KNOW that, in practice, it doesn't work this way. I rightfully suspect you and I have had enough engines apart to realize this basic, simple TRUTH...about system lubrication. :yes:

Robert,
The general rule of thumb is a minimum of 10 psi per 1000 revs. HOT. (176F) Many newer STREET engines run even lower, or have variable oil pumps, they run nearly no oil pressure at low revs/low load, to save fuel, and pump more/higher pressure when load is increased. Many cars I've tested for oil light issues have only 4-6 psi at hot idle. The oil lights are set to go off at 4 psi.

Certain racing engine, like F1 cars, don't even have bearings, they use DLC coated cranks/rods, to eliminate the need, and some use nearly NO oil pressure fed to the rod bearings. I'd bet you'd find all the F1 race engine tech magazines I have very interesting. I have so many race engine tech stuff and street engine tech stuff now, I can read just about till I die.

Oil pressure readings are taken where the sender for the gauge or light would be, this is after the regulator in the pump and usually after the filter. Direct pump pressure can be MUCH higher than what's read at the sender port.

I didn't want to get the OP confused by stating all of what you did, as I already know much of what you've stated.

There is also a second place to test oil pressure on a Honda with VTEC, at the VTEC pressure switch, it's a necessary step to check, as if you don't have the 70psi there, the system may not operate. This may have changed now, but I'm going by my old B18C engine in my Integra. (I can remember that spec)

If he's got low oil pressure, then it's time to go into what you've posted, as to where the pressure might be going.