I'm due to replace the cabin A/C filter...
Should I spray Lysol into the recirculate inlet?
Or into the housing, once I get it open, and the old filters out?

I didn't Bruce but it couldn't hurt. Is this your first filter change? RTV55

Bruce are you putting Lysol so it will smell better? If so Try febreze. I tried spaying Axe body colonge on the filter. It didn't last very long but it worked...

The only time I've used Lysol was when my Passat's HVAC system was smelling moldy. I don't think it would hurt it otherwise but if there's nothing offending your olfactory senses, it's probably not necessary. If you do it, use unscented. :yes:

Bruce Hawkins:

Cabin filter replacement on Gen Six can be/is a real BIOTCH. A big-time PITA. But also quite necessary, depending on your particular environmental circumstances. Awhile back, I posted to another thread regarding your concerns.

Long and short is, get a copy of the TSB, then read it thoroughly, before you begin.

Tricky part is removing the passenger's side lower dash panel, below the glovebox. You will need to remove the upper "filler" panel, inside the console (just below the ashtray/storage compartment), to gain access to a concealed, Phillips-head screw attaching it. Then, the glovebox, itself. Two (2) caps/covers conceal the two (2) Phillips-head screws retaining the glovebox, at the top. Remove the metal brace, supporting the bottom of the glovebox, BEFORE you try to remove the glovebox. Otherwise, you will likely break one or both of the screw "bosses" which are part of the dashboard unit.

Ham-fisted dealer-mechanic IDIOT, who "Honda Certified" my car, in 2006, broke the left-hand screw "boss," necessitating an Epoxy repair, to re-attach it. Thank God he (at least) left me the part!

Be sure to use a flat-tipped attachment, on a shop vac, to clean debris (insects, leaves, dirt, etc.) out of the evaporator core, once you remove the two (2) filter elements.

In conclusion, BIG-A$$ chore. But necessary to maintain proper HVAC functioning, along with being conducive to a nice smell, inside your car.

I am prone to add a few drops of "Nil-Odor" at various locations inside my cars. Typically, to the floormats and carpet, near the seats.

this seems complicated for me to do and thus big jobs like these is why i would prefer to take it into somebody else to do it for me and just pay them to do it, even if i do have to pay with my body appendages, lol.

Yes, it is a pain. Its been more than 30K. I only get a musty smell after, I turn off the AC.
It appear to not drain properly, on our cars because, it drips on to a cross member, that is heated by the engine and exhaust, and evaporates, before it can drip onto the ground...

i didn't know that. so, it's not like other cars where the condensation of the A/C drips down to the ground? i haven't paid any attention to that so i haven't noticed it before.

and idk how long it's been since the cabin filter has been replaced on my car...that is if it's been replaced. since i got my car used at 108k miles a little over 2 years ago, i don't know if the previous 2 or 3 (i can't remember which) owners of the car had this replaced before me. regardless, it's been 2 years and nearly 70k miles since i purchased my car. so, i should get it....or take it in somewhere....to get it done anyways.

but, it's not smelling musty or anything. my only complaint is the humidity in the car stays for a while after the A/C is turned off. particularly at night.

It appear to not drain properly, on our cars because, it drips on to a cross member, that is heated by the engine and exhaust, and evaporates, before it can drip onto the ground...

Mine has always left a small puddle of water on the ground (parked, after A/C was on).

To All:

As Cajun points out, you SHOULD see a puddle of condensation appearing on the ground, as a result of A/C operation. If not, then the (plastic) drain tube connected to the evaporator core housing is likely clogged. If clogged, this is conducive to mildew/mold buildup inside the unit, and can cause unpleasant interior odors. My dealer mechanics typically blow out the tube with compressed air.

Mine drips on to the rear cross member, and evaporates? It could be slightly plugged. It dose steam up the windshield at night, once turned off. Smells OK most of the time...

Bruce Hawkins:

Bear in mind another factor: HOW do you have your HVAC contols set? On "Ventilate?" Or "Recirculate?" :dunno:

Bruce Hawkins:

Bear in mind another factor: HOW do you have your HVAC controls set? On "Ventilate?" Or "Recirculate?" :dunno:

I use, Vent, not Recerc (AKA; MAX-AC) which is harder on the system, as it's on 100% of the time (beside using inside air). I only use Recerc, if I'm being gassed by a diesel truck, or whatever, or if it's really hot, but just for a few minutes.

Once the engine is off, more water comes out then. Otherwise, most of it, just drips onto the cross-member, and evaporates...

I found the drain!
Look at the firewall, left side, (near the fuse box) for a round canister (It's the, receiver-drier, I think). Reach down past it (directly below), it's near the seam in the firewall. It's a small round pipe with a slanted cut across the end of the pipe. I used a small wire about 16-GA (AWM), and about 1 foot long. I poked it, in there, about 6 inches, and nothing came out (no, green, blue, or black, allege or mold was there). The water smelled fresh.

My idea of using Lysol was more preventive, than to solve a particular problem.

I plan on using a, Charcoal type filter, ether a Bosch C3600:
http://www.boschautoparts.com/filters/Pages/ActivatedCharcoalFilters.aspx
Kragen Auto, $46 (package has two filters, as needed, to replace the filter(s): http://www.cskauto.com/
http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductList.aspx?parttype=10&ptset=A&searchfor=Cabin+Air+Filter
or (Amazon, Auto Barn? $37): http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-C3600-Cabin-Air-Filter/dp/B000BZJPM8
or (Rock Auto) $38: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=23&partnum=C3600&a=FR23-C3600

Or maybe, a MicronAir (the price is too much, if it takes two. One filter $36, or $72??? The real price is TBD (vinder did not know if the package held two or one, as stated on there web page):
http://www.micronair.us/how-they-work.php
http://www.filters-now.com/selector_multi.php?pid=Auto&group=Honda_Accord_2001#products

I'm sensitive to partially burnt diesel, otherwise the std one, a Bosch P3600, would be fine (this is what I used last time ~$15)...

I found the drain!
Look at the firewall, left side, (near the fuse box) for a round canister (It's the, receiver-drier, I think).

Thanks for the location of the drain. Could be good to know someday. :paranoid:

The receiver drier is actually in front of the radiator on the passenger side. The canister you mention on the firewall has something to do with cruise control (I believe). Follow the hoses on it to verify. As far as cabin filters I've always just grabbed whatever they had at Advance Auto. It's been a few years, but I think it was <$20 for a box with 2 filters.

Bruce Hawkins:

As Cajun points out, the receiver-dryer is in front of radiator, on the passenger side. This part is not involved with your water "puddling" concerns.

The A/C condensation drain is actually connected to the bottom of the Evaporator core housing inside the car. The tube runs from the housing through the firewall to carry condensation outside to the ground.

OEM cabin filters (made by either FilTech or Micron) are kinda pricey. My dealer charged me $17 each. But I considered $34 a reasonable price...since I plan to change them only around every three-to-four years. Spending about two (2) hours removing and reinstalling the passenger's side of the dash is NOT my idea of having fun.

OK, what do i no, the drain is there...
I'm saving up for a new filter...

Bruce Hawkins:

As Cajun points out, the receiver-dryer is in front of radiator, on the passenger side. This part is not involved with your water "puddling" concerns.

The A/C condensation drain is actually connected to the bottom of the Evaporator core housing inside the car. The tube runs from the housing through the firewall to carry condensation outside to the ground.

OEM cabin filters (made by either FilTech or Micron) are kinda pricey. My dealer charged me $17 each. But I considered $34 a reasonable price...since I plan to change them only around every three-to-four years. Spending about two (2) hours removing and reinstalling the passenger's side of the dash is NOT my idea of having fun.

Was that an installed price, or did you do it yourself?

Effin Ponderous:

I replaced my cabin filters by myself. Why, you ask? Because my dealer would have hit me for about $75 in labor charges.

Glad I did the work, as I found and repaired minor damage to the dash, caused by some ham-fisted idiot technician, when replacing the filters several years ago.

Was that an installed price, or did you do it yourself?

Effin Ponderous:

Because my dealer would have hit me for about $75 in labor charges.

Glad I did the work, as I found and repaired minor damage to the dash, caused by some ham-fisted idiot technician, when replacing the filters several years ago.

6th gen cabin filters are a PITA to change while the 7th and 8th gens are a breeze. :thmsup:

Satin Silver:

Gen Seven Accord (and most later Hondas) are a "drop-in" breeze, when it comes to cabin filter replacement. As you point out...and from my own, personal experience...Gen Six cabin filter service is a real PITA.

6th gen cabin filters are a PITA to change while the 7th and 8th gens are a breeze. :thmsup:

My Sienna takes about 1 min and zero tools. The Accord takes a good 30-40 mins and some cursing, but I'll still do it again vs. paying $75.

Cajun:

Being old(er) and "physically-challenged," I think I can pull the cabin filter "trick" in about one (1) hour...when I change mine again...about three (3)-to-four (4) years from now. Practice makes perfect. :yes:

As of this-coming Friday (September 25th), I have owned my '02 exactly one (1) year. Seems that I learn something new about it, every day. And so far, good car! :thmsup: :yes:

Update: 12/29/2009...

All for not...
I bought two AC Cabin Air filters (MicronAir AMHN98104C) from, Filters-Now. These are the, Supper Premium filters ($45), not the ($12-15) cheap ones. I have a problems with Diesel soot, dust from the farm fields and such...

Bad news. Apparently, MicronAir has decided to cut corners (literally).
The filter should look boxed-in at the ends, not open (see below).
The Honda plastic holder has a slot for this end piece (or a filter pleat) to go into it, to make an air tight seal. The filter I got looks like it's the correct filter, but once you try to place the filter into the holder, it becomes somewhat obvious, that it was cut short, not allowing the filter to seal agents the plastic housing (at the ends). If a Mechanic was not paying close attention, he/she would just place the filter into the holder, and assume its good (It looks close enough). But there is a visible air gap, allowing unfiltered air to leak past.
Also, one filter was shorter than the other (in total length)?

The filters I got last time from Bosch, are labeled MicronAir, but are made correctly. They have the same root part number HN98104. The older ones have HN98104P, and the new ones have HN98104C. The Filters-Now ones, are thicker, and made differently (beside incorrectly)...

Below is Pics of the filters (note; the darkness is because they use charcoal for added filtering):
Pic 1, See the differences in length of the pleats?
Pic 2, Vs 3; see the gap in the bottom (on pic 2)...
Pic 4, Plastic holder for the filter, see the slot (the filters end piece or end pleat should go in hear).
Pic 5, Shows the filter is in the correct direction...

Continued in Post part 2...
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showpost.php?p=567791&postcount=24

Post Part 2:

I have a call into Filters-Now (and an email into MicronAir). I will return (if possible - opened) the new filters, and Purchase the Bosch Premium (what I used last time, and fit), once my credit goes through. Unless MicronAir can fix this problem...
I cleaned the old filters, the best I could, and reinstalled them.

Pic 1, is showing the air gap.
Pic 2, is showing the length differences (left is the new ones, and on the right is the older ones).
Pic 3, is shows the matching part numbers.
Pic 4, is showing how the filter pleat, fits into the plastic holder slot.

2 hours?

20 minutes tops to pull the trim pieces, glove box and dash support. And reassemble. On a bad day.

Then I take the shop vac and place it at the bottom of the housing and use compressed air to loosen any crap in there.

We have rodent issues around here, so we get under hood insulation and other detritus in there.

I had a similar issue with the filters supplied by our local Honda dealership. They started getting "offshore" filters, that were actually too big for the carriers. I had to bitch at them to get OEM filters (same price to us, but NOT for them) that fit properly.

2 hours?

20 minutes tops to pull the trim pieces, glove box and dash support. And reassemble. On a bad day.

Then I take the shop vac and place it at the bottom of the housing and use compressed air to loosen any crap in there.

We have rodent issues around here, so we get under hood insulation and other detritus in there.

I had a similar issue with the filters supplied by our local Honda dealership. They started getting "offshore" filters, that were actually too big for the carriers. I had to bitch at them to get OEM filters (same price to us, but NOT for them) that fit properly.
I didn't say two hours, but that's about right. Found mostly leaves and such. The Filters were amazingly dirty after 2 years and more than 60K miles...

Sorry, I saw Robert's post, I was trying to bust his stones a bit! ;)

I can't count the number of gen 6 cabin filters I've done.

You should see them when people who never knew their car had filters. These are people who come in with complaints of no air from the vents. Usually in mid summer at 90+ with 95% humidity, or in dead cold like today was 25 tops and wind blowing at 50 mph.

Dealers have some kind of biocide they put in the ducts to kill the bad actors. Usually requires you to drive on recirc for a while. My son had it done to his CPO TL under warranty and it really worked.

You should see them when people who never knew their car had filters.

Like the people I bought my car from? Smelled of gravel whenever the vents were on (they live on a gravel road). New filter on the left. :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v715/alaina615/011108_21271.jpg

Sorry, I saw Robert's post, I was trying to bust his stones a bit! ;)

I can't count the number of gen 6 cabin filters I've done.

You should see them when people who never knew their car had filters. These are people who come in with complaints of no air from the vents. Usually in mid summer at 90+ with 95% humidity, or in dead cold like today was 25 tops and wind blowing at 50 mph.

FredSVT:

Shortly after I bought my car (Sept. 2008), I changed the cabin filters. It actually took me about two (2) days. Why? A) my having no prior experience, B) my being in constant, severe pain, C) slight dashboard damage.

Hamfisted idiot tech who "Honda Certified" my car (in 2006) broke the upper-left screw boss attaching the glovebox and the plastic lower rail in front of metal support bracket. At least the jerk left me the blasted parts...to reattach with super-strength Dupont epoxy. Next time around, I expect the job to take me about an hour or so...my being so meticulously detail-oriented and careful...as always.

That left upper screw boss where the glove box light passes on install is a pain not to break off.

It's really hard to break off that lower center screw boss off the box, he must've been one of a real rusher.

If they only located that light about a half inch lower on the box, it probably would never hit.

I'm very happy they went to what the gen 7s have.

The earlier Pilot/Ody is just as bad, removing the glovebox with two screws that are a pain to access (esp the outer one) and then cutting out the plastic dash support on the first change. Then having to gently peel back the center of the dash to access a hidden bolt on the metal support brace, just have to loosen it to let it hang down enough to get the cover off.

2 hours ? All I can say is you better not get into installing car stereo stuff. I have taken off that plastic trim piece so many times I think I can do it im my sleep now.

Well in my case, I was taking my time. And I was trying to figure out how to install the filters, that were made wrong anyway (ultimately, I could not). I took many pics of the ill-fitting filters, and took time to clean, and reuse the old filters, and reassembled the dash = 2 Hours...