Hey guys,

I got my rear brake pads replaced, now I'm trying to put the caliper back on but it's too tight of a fit. Do you have to C clamp the piston deal that has the cross groove in it? Or how does that work? I can't get it to fit over the brake pad.

Large flat screw driver will work, turn the piece clockwise till it goes in. No C-clamp required.

Turn it clock wise to open the gap? There is some resistance when i turn it right, I just dont want to jack it up.

The proper way to work on Honda brake is to turn the piston. You won't be able to compress the piston even if you want to. Make sure it aligns.

http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/images/tools2003/LIS-28600.jpgThis is what I used and is available at most auto part store since its universal.

I got them on, I took of the brake fluid cap under the hood and it made it a little easier to turn. Thanks for info guys!

what pads u get?

http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/images/tools2003/LIS-28600.jpgThis is what I used and is available at most auto part store since its universal.

how do you use that? looks like i need to solve it more then use it

how do you use that? looks like i need to solve it more then use it

Just put it on your socket wrench....

Just put it on your socket wrench....

giggity

Shit looks like a rubiks cube, I just got the Duralast Gold Cmax.

I purchased a brake calipar clamp that you turn at harbor freight and it has the discs for the rear also with the notches to turn the rear pistons in..... It was only around 15 bucks...

OP - keep us updated with the rear pads. I'd be curious to hear if they start squeaking or not. If not, I might consider a preemptive rear pad swap.

Will do, the new pads probably had about 1/8" more padding on it. So i think tyell hold up nice.

I had a local shop swap mine for me for the grand total price of $20. Cheaper than a friggin' oil change. =)

They were pretty easy to change so it wasn't a big deal.

I just swapped my rear pads out at 20k with the duralast pads, and was thrown off on how to compress the piston as well. I finally figured it out, but I may of screwed one of the calipers up trying to compress it with a c clamp bc i can hear an ever so slight rubbing noise from the rear driver side. Very faint but I'm real picky with noises.

Also I am really f''ing pissed about the poor brake design by honda, and I almost had a stroke after ripping the guy from american honda a new one, but what I want to know
HAS ANYONE FIGURED OUT WHY THE PREMATURE WEARING IS HAPPENING. I've read every post imaginable on the issue, but nobody seems to give clear solutions. I'm no expert but my best guess would have to be related to the caliper compressing and decompressing like some have spoke of (poor lubrication of the slider pin) or the braking distribution which I have no clue about. I might switch to ceramic I've heard it may help.

the rear pads grip more than the front so the car doesnt tip to the front when you break. No dipping. The rear pads are so small for that car, if honda wanted to make the pads last longer...they would need bigger pads and bigger calipers and set up in the back so they can at least last 40-50k

its also heavier than the prev models.

Yea no need to compress rears or youll mess them up. Just hvae to clockwise turn them till they fit. Also take off the brake fluid cap, it'll release the pressure making it somewhat easier to turn.

I just swapped my rear pads out at 20k with the duralast pads, and was thrown off on how to compress the piston as well. I finally figured it out, but I may of screwed one of the calipers up trying to compress it with a c clamp bc i can hear an ever so slight rubbing noise from the rear driver side. Very faint but I'm real picky with noises.

Also I am really f''ing pissed about the poor brake design by honda, and I almost had a stroke after ripping the guy from american honda a new one, but what I want to know
HAS ANYONE FIGURED OUT WHY THE PREMATURE WEARING IS HAPPENING. I've read every post imaginable on the issue, but nobody seems to give clear solutions. I'm no expert but my best guess would have to be related to the caliper compressing and decompressing like some have spoke of (poor lubrication of the slider pin) or the braking distribution which I have no clue about. I might switch to ceramic I've heard it may help.

to hondaracer. or others. If you say that bigger calipers and pads would be a fix, then are there ones available and has anybody installed them.

OP - keep us updated with the rear pads. I'd be curious to hear if they start squeaking or not. If not, I might consider a preemptive rear pad swap.

I have the Cmax on the front and back for a few weeks now and just did a 500 mile trip. These brakes are good with a lot less dust then the stockers and a lot more quiet. I definitly recommend them. Plus they have a life time warranty.:thmsup:

http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/images/tools2003/LIS-28600.jpgThis is what I used and is available at most auto part store since its universal.

Yep, one of those things you just can't live without and will work with most rear brakes forever... sitting in my tool box right now.

I'm going to be changing to hawks in the front and ebc's in the rear soon...probably with drilled rotors.. :thmsup:

I agree, this made the whole brake job that much easier.

I have the Cmax on the front and back for a few weeks now and just did a 500 mile trip. These brakes are good with a lot less dust then the stockers and a lot more quiet. I definitly recommend them. Plus they have a life time warranty.:thmsup:

Hey when you put the cmax ones on, did you put that paste or whatever comes in the packet on? My uncle was like ah you don't need it, but the front ones make noise like when I ease on / off the brake really slowly. Could this be a reason why?

Hey when you put the cmax ones on, did you put that paste or whatever comes in the packet on? My uncle was like ah you don't need it, but the front ones make noise like when I ease on / off the brake really slowly. Could this be a reason why?

Yes.

Hey when you put the cmax ones on, did you put that paste or whatever comes in the packet on? My uncle was like ah you don't need it, but the front ones make noise like when I ease on / off the brake really slowly. Could this be a reason why?

Sure it could be the reason but I doubt it. No I didnt use it on the front or the back. Make sure your shims are on tight, I bet one of them are loose. I used the stock ones on the front and back. My car is dead silent. I also broke in the pads, I did 4- 60 mph runs then hit the brakes firmly to slow the car down to 10 mph. Adfter 4 times I jumped on the highway for 15 minutes to cool the pads down. Everything worked great, no noise at all.

OK, I am new to the fourm but have been following the brake problem threads. My question is after replacing the pad with a good quality set do they last longer or are they still wearing out between 20,000 to 30,000 miles? Does it help to replace them with a better quality pad or is it the poor design of the small brakes?

To the OP make sure you line up the groove of the piston with the pin on the pad otherwise you'll be changing them out very shortly. I can't believe I went over 5 years of changing pads and never got unlucky with this until 2nd to last change of pads.

Sure it could be the reason but I doubt it. No I didnt use it on the front or the back. Make sure your shims are on tight, I bet one of them are loose. I used the stock ones on the front and back. My car is dead silent. I also broke in the pads, I did 4- 60 mph runs then hit the brakes firmly to slow the car down to 10 mph. Adfter 4 times I jumped on the highway for 15 minutes to cool the pads down. Everything worked great, no noise at all.

You doubt it? the paste that comes with the pads is meant to go on the back of the pads between the shim. Its commonly refered to as "Anti-squeal" paste. I'm sure you can figure out why it is called that...

Honda recommends using Molykote M77, which is just a high molybdenum content paste. Other manufacturers use a copper based paste. I have recently been using a Permatex paste that is molybdenum disulfide...

Permatex also sells something called "Disc Brake Quiet" which works great for pads that dont have shims like some aftermarket pads.

:cool:

would it be weird to have cmax rears and hawk fronts? and is there anyway a dealership can void your warranty for doing this stuff?

I only ask b/c my friend took his SI in and he has new rotors and hawk pads and the dealer said they wouldn't touch his wheels or suspension b/c they didn't change the pads