I'm going to the dealership this Friday to get my oil changed. They're charging $31 but I'm planning to take my own oil (Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20) so I want to see how much they drop the price. I'll ask them to put on a new OEM oil filter. I don't even know where I'm going to get my oil yet, since I don't have a lot of time to go out and buy it. Will probably just find it somewhere Friday right before I go.

I wanted to ask, I want them to check all the other fluids including ATF, etc. Would they charge me extra just to check them?

Also, I want them to check one of my visors since the lights don't seem to light up properly if I want to use the mirror on the passenger side. Would they charge me to get this just looked at? If it's too much too fix, I'll leave it as is.

It's my first dealership visit and after all I've read I don't want to have to fight with these people when I get there. But if I have to, I want to be prepared and know what I'm getting into.

Well, I can't claim to be much of an expert on dealers since I've had little occasion to use mine. Have you checked to see if your dealer has a web page? Many do, and they periodically have discounts and promotions.
Many Walmarts have 5 qt jugs of Penzoil for about $20. If you one nearby you might want to check it out. Don't forget there's a $15 rebate on Penzoil for 5qts (good till 10-31) if you didn't already see it the Fluid Dynamics section. Good luck.

Well, I can't claim to be much of an expert on dealers since I've had little occasion to use mine. Have you checked to see if your dealer has a web page? Many do, and they periodically have discounts and promotions.
Many Walmarts have 5 qt jugs of Penzoil for about $20. If you one nearby you might want to check it out. Don't forget there's a $15 rebate on Penzoil for 5qts (good till 10-31) if you didn't already see it the Fluid Dynamics section. Good luck.

They charge $31 for an oil change and checking all the fluids according to the site. Wondering if they'd drop it to $20 or so if I bring my own oil. I don't live near a WalMart but there is one about 15 miles away that I wouldn't mind driving to for that price and with the rebate.

CYANiDE:

Like everything else in life, there are good dealers and bad dealers. Here's hoping you can deal with a good dealer.

Many dealers purchase oil, in bulk, for maintenance services. Brand can differ, from dealer to dealer. My dealer uses Castrol, which is a pretty good oil. Just that they charge too much, and I prefer using mine.

I buy my own oil (five-quart jug of Mobil One) at Wal*Mart. I also buy a filter from my dealer's parts department. For an oil change, I typically do it myself. Total cost: ~$32.

At your dealer, tell the SA (Service Advisor) EXACTLY what you want done, up front, requesting a total price. Be pleasant, but be firm. You want to save money, but the dealer wants to get as much as they can out of your wallet. Don't get taken for a "ride."

Yup. I already had that in mind. I want a price before they take it in and I'm planning to go to AutZone tomorrow to pick up a few quarts of Mobil-1 or Pennzoil, which ever they have.

CYANiDE:

Per your stated location, you reside in one of the major "boroughs" in NYC. On a business trip to NYC (March 1979), I found Queens a BIG and rather interesting place! Wish I had had the time to tour your entire city! :)

(Editor's Note: New Yorkers, they tend to be so brash, so rude, and always in a hurry. But they place a very high priority on their time. The Cabbies drive like "Kamikaze Pilots." They can easily get you two (2) blocks, when they stomp it to the floor, soon as the traffic light changes! :D The street vendors, they are simply marvelous and very personable. Ya gotta LOVE their Wieners and Bagels! :yes:)

AutoZone now has 4,200 locations, nationwide. Wasn't aware they (Malone & Hyde, Inc.) had expanded to New York. While an overall great chain parts store to shop with, I'd still recommend you price compare with Wal*Mart. I like to keep all the savings in my pocket. How 'bout yourself? :dunno:

As far as "Quick Stick" (Quaker State) and "Piss Oil" (Pennzoil)? While vastly improved, I still wouldn't touch either one. :thumbsdow Sure hope they are not still parafin-based oils. (WHY would I want essentially candle wax in my engine? :scratch:) What I once cleaned out of my old "Slant-Six" Dodge Dart's valve cover, rocker shaft assembly, and oil pan would instantly make you lose your lunch.

I had my oil changed at the dealership on Tuesday, and I've got the invoice next to me. The "Synthetic Blend" was $2.18 per unit, with 5 units charged, so a total of $10.90 in just the oil.

So, if you bring your own oil you should save $10.90.

-GT

What is preventing you from checking your own fluids?

CYANiDE:

Per your stated location, you reside in one of the major "boroughs" in NYC. On a business trip to NYC (March 1979), I found Queens a BIG and rather interesting place! Wish I had had the time to tour your entire city! :)

(Editor's Note: New Yorkers, they tend to be so brash, so rude, and always in a hurry. But they place a very high priority on their time. The Cabbies drive like "Kamikaze Pilots." They can easily get you two (2) blocks, when they stomp it to the floor, soon as the traffic light changes! :D The street vendors, they are simply marvelous and very personable. Ya gotta LOVE their Wieners and Bagels! :yes:)

AutoZone now has 4,200 locations, nationwide. Wasn't aware they (Malone & Hyde, Inc.) had expanded to New York. While an overall great chain parts store to shop with, I'd still recommend you price compare with Wal*Mart. I like to keep all the savings in my pocket. How 'bout yourself? :dunno:

As far as "Quick Stick" (Quaker State) and "Piss Oil" (Pennzoil)? While vastly improved, I still wouldn't touch either one. :thumbsdow Sure hope they are not still parafin-based oils. (WHY would I want essentially candle wax in my engine? :scratch:) What I once cleaned out of my old "Slant-Six" Dodge Dart's valve cover, rocker shaft assembly, and oil pan would instantly make you lose your lunch.

Yup. I love my neighborhood, plenty of different sides to Queens!

I had my oil changed at the dealership on Tuesday, and I've got the invoice next to me. The "Synthetic Blend" was $2.18 per unit, with 5 units charged, so a total of $10.90 in just the oil.

So, if you bring your own oil you should save $10.90.

-GT

Thanks for letting me know. Might be slightly different depending on area but I now have a general idea.

What is preventing you from checking your own fluids?

I do check my engine oil, ATF, etc, just haven't done it recently. So I might as well have them do it Friday. I've checked it a few times before I know ATF turn on the car let it warm up then shut off and check it. Motor oil is basically the same except for turning it off. (I hope I'm right LOL).

Just check the atf when returning home after driving it instead of starting it(and letting it warm up) just for the sake of checking the atf.

I had my oil changed at the dealership on Tuesday, and I've got the invoice next to me. The "Synthetic Blend" was $2.18 per unit, with 5 units charged, so a total of $10.90 in just the oil.

So, if you bring your own oil you should save $10.90.

-GT

So - I've gotta question this - they only charged you $2.18 per quart for a real synthetic blend? Even at WalMart, the cheapest syn blends are higher than that - and buying the Motorcraft Syn Blend 5-gal bottles equate for about $2.30 per quart. That amound sounds real cheap - unless you had a coupon or some other discount and this is how they referenced it in the invoice. If you're REALLY getting syn blend for that price without any discounting, then count your lucky stars!

andy

I decided against getting it done at the dealership. I bought myself 5 quarts of Valvoliine Full Synthetic so I won't have to change it for a while. Just went and bought the filter at the dealer too. Going to have my oil changed tomorrow and then check all my fluids.

To All:

I simply can NOT justify the "Rip Off" process, involved with a dealer or any OC outfit (e.g. "Jiffy Lube," "Express Oil Change.") Ham-fisted IDIOTS at many quick-change shops are so terribly prone to strip out the oil pan and/or drain plug. And they charge way the Hell too much. Spare me the GRIEF, Okay? :D

Nope. Going to the mechanic my father uses who has been very reliable for the past couple of years. Very clean shop and looks like he does good work. I went in originally for the change and they still wanted to charge me $30 with me bringing in my own oil. I bought some Full Synth so I won't have to change it again for a long time. Is 8,000 miles a good change interval for full synth? will be about 90% city driving 10% highway. I will hit 8000 in less than a year, but if I don't I know I have to change it by then.

CYANiDE:

Let me correctly understand your question. Do I consider a $30 labor charge too much, if you furnish your own oil and filter? You got that part right, Mister. :yes:

CYANiDE:

Let me correctly understand your question. Do I consider a $30 labor charge too much, if you furnish your own oil and filter? You got that part right, Mister. :yes:

Indeed. That's what I thought. I had to ask the service consultant guy like three times. He said it doesn't make a difference if I bring or don't bring my own supplies. I just walked away when he said that.

CYANiDE:

If you get someone else to do the work, I'd say $15-to-$20 would be a reasonable labor charge. In the air (on a rack), the job takes about 15 (fifteen) to 20 (twenty) minutes. And (roughly) a dollar per minute (or 60 dollars per hour) is quite handsome compensation.

If you've got (or have accesss to) a floor jack, safety stands, an oil filter wrench, and a 17MM wrench, along with a concrete driveway, then DIY (Do It Yourself). There are threads elsewhere within the Forum to explain the procedure, step by step. While kind of messy, changing oil + filter ain't "Rocket Science," either. If I can do it, ANYBODY can do it. Including Y-O-U! :yes:

CYANiDE:

If you get someone else to do the work, I'd say $15-to-$20 would be a reasonable labor charge. In the air (on a rack), the job takes about 15 (fifteen) to 20 (twenty) minutes. And (roughly) a dollar per minute (or 60 dollars per hour) is quite handsome compensation.

If you've got (or have accesss to) a floor jack, safety stands, an oil filter wrench, and a 17MM wrench, along with a concrete driveway, then DIY (Do It Yourself). There are threads elsewhere within the Forum to explain the procedure, step by step. While kind of messy, changing oil + filter ain't "Rocket Science," either. If I can do it, ANYBODY can do it. Including Y-O-U! :yes:

Sadly, my entire driveway and block are sloped, doesn't work to well. But for next time it will be DIY and the ATF fluid at 60k will be drain and flush 3 times DIY! Those are all the tools I need? I'm a noob when it comes to tools.

CYANiDE:

Unfortunately, NONE of us arrive in this world equipped with all we need and want to know. Acquiring education and experience, about ANYTHING, involves deliberate, diligent effort, patience, and a lot of time.

Do NOT take my suggestions/advice ALONE. I do NOT proclaim myself as an "expert" of any kind. I suggest you consult with others, such as FredSVT. A very experienced mechanic and DA Moderator, the guy is a GENIOUS and a Gentleman. I think he will go out of his way to help you.

Aside from proper training/education, a mechanic with the wrong tools or no tools at all, is worthless. I suggest you spend some time at Sears-Roebuck, in their tool department, looking at their selection. Run down a Snap-On or a Mac Tool truck, to talk to their Sales Rep. And spend time talking to some mechanics, who work on automobiles for a living.

A tranny drain-and-refill on your (I4) car involves removing the drain bolt, which requires only the head of a 3/8" ratchet (or pull bar). Rather tightly-torqued (at the factory, to about 35-36 lbs./ft.), you will likely find it a "beast" to break it loose. With you being an admitted "Noob," I strongly suggest you get a "Gearhead" friend or a mechanic, to assist you.

The majority of the work I do to my (exclusively-Honda) cars involves the following tools: A (Sears Craftsman, 22-piece #34789) Metric socket wrench set, combination (open-end + box-end) wrenches, #1 and #2 Phillips-head screwdrivers, many various-width flatblade screwdrivers, and a BIG-a$$ (ball-peen) hammer. Also a great idea to own a torque wrench, especially useful for correctly torqueing wheel lugs. You will find that the most common nut/bolt head sizes are 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, and 19MM. Most screw fasteners will require a #2 Phillips-head driver. While most professional mechanics routinely invest over $100,000 in tools, I have less than ~$500(?) in my entire tool set. I prefer Craftsman and Snap-On, given how well they work, along with their lifetime guarantee. Use cheap tools, at your own risk...and ultimate disappointment.

FredSVT: From my distant, (Honda) motorcycle "mechanic-ing" days (1971), I still have both "long" and "short" Snap-On 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, and 21MM combo wrenches. I paid good money for them, way back then. And not a damn one of them has ever rounded off the head of a fastener, or ever broke on me. Great tools don't COST. They PAY! :thmsup: :yes: