when i brake my 09 6-6 i hear this "noiseeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee eee" A LOT and its effecting my sleep because it really bothers me. also when the car is all clean and washed and basically new ITS REALLY EMBARESSING. whats even worse is people riding and hearing eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee again. and again and again.


I will donate $0.50 to every one that answers my questions with a logical answer.


If this was your accord and you have around $200-300 dollars, excluding install. What exactly would you get? EBC or Brembo or Hawk? Ceramic? what kind? I don't want squeeking anymore. Would you recommend to change the rotors? just incase they are glazed?

for that kind of money i think all you could do is the brake pads, which is what is causing the eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.... go for some hawk ceramics, since i know they sell front and rear rotors for our cars.

new rotors, and hawk ceramics on front and rear. The rear ceramics are just coming in now.

front hb366z.681
rear HB626Z.577

yes i would get new rotors not like they are that pricey, just make sure you get the right size to fit your trim. rotor size is diff between lx and ex in sedans.

doing my best to prove edmnunds tco correct by dropping 20k :)

so let me ask this....

is it fair to say that changing to hawk ceramic pads/or similar will improve braking by about 50% or so? while getting rotors and pads together might result in a much larger improvement? say 80%? I basically want value at around 200-300. what do you think

new rotors, and hawk ceramics on front and rear. The rear ceramics are just coming in now.

front hb366z.681
rear HB626Z.577

yes i would get new rotors not like they are that pricey, just make sure you get the right size to fit your trim. rotor size is diff between lx and ex in sedans.

doing my best to prove edmnunds tco correct by dropping 20k :)

what is the right rotor size for a v6...i think i will get those hawk pads? any links for rotors you guys would recommend?

sedan
front: 11.8
rear 11.1

coupe:
same as above

current prices 20x2=~40 rear rotors
front 33x2= ~66
thats at rock auto

so let me ask this....

is it fair to say that changing to hawk ceramic pads/or similar will improve braking by about 50% or so? while getting rotors and pads together might result in a much larger improvement? say 80%? I basically want value at around 200-300. what do you think

50%-80%?? Sorry bud, but pads aren't going to make your stopping distance go from 135 to 27 feet. If you want a dramatic improvement you're going to have to shell out several grand for a BBK.

Also, replacing stock-for stock rotors when they're not out of spec won't give you anything besides a lighter wallet; you're better off resurfacing if you're going to do that. If you want a change there you'll want drilled/slotted rotors which cost about $100.

Here is the link aeoporta was referring to for the Hawk Ceramic Pads. I will be getting them as soon as they are available for the rears, which should be this week or the next.

http://www.buybrakes.com/hawk/apps-Honda.html

if the screeching just started why would he need to change his rotors? especially OEM for near OEM wouldn't make a difference i would think no?!? just swap your pads for ceramic and you should be good to go?!? i don't have any break noise yet, but as soon as i do i'm getting switched out to ceramic so i don't have to dish out for rotors!

if the screeching just started why would he need to change his rotors? especially OEM for near OEM wouldn't make a difference i would think no?!? just swap your pads for ceramic and you should be good to go?!? i don't have any break noise yet, but as soon as i do i'm getting switched out to ceramic so i don't have to dish out for rotors!

oem break pads are harsh on the rotors and may also have warped them also pads will wear away rotors as all pads do. Based on how many miles he has on the car and the shape of rotors that will determine whether or not they can be cut or etc.. Best bet would be to just change rotors at same time your are changing pads for optimal results.

oem break pads are harsh on the rotors and may also have warped them also pads will wear away rotors as all pads do. Based on how many miles he has on the car and the shape of rotors that will determine whether or not they can be cut or etc.. Best bet would be to just change rotors at same time your are changing pads for optimal results.
:lmao:
Did somebody at Just Brakes tell you that?

Get a digital caliper and measure the sucker. I'm on my 3rd set of pads with the same rotors, and the rotors are still in spec. Changing the rotors because you think it's a good idea, or because you're worried the pads are too harsh is like saying you need new tires because you drive on gravel a lot.

If you're rotors aren't warped, and the thickness is up to spec, there's no reason to drop $100 on them, plain and simple. If you're worried, get a caliper and check the thickness, but pad material is designed to wear away before the rotors, plain and simple. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

notice the part that says "optimal results". If you do not wish to change rotors you do not have to as i stated it all matters as to the condition of the rotors and so forth. the 08 brakes also tend to leave residue on the rotors so make sure they are in proper shape before you put on the new pads. I am simply advocating that it might be more prudent to change the rotors also but this i leave for the person spending their hard earned money. :)

Here is a pretty good write up on the subject: http://www.ehow.com/way_5471860_do-turn-rotors-changing-pads.html

consider all options then make an informed decision.

Bendix Ceramic brake pads & Permatex Ultra Brake Rotor lube. Replace existing pads with Bendix. During install, lube up the back plates and anywhere the is sliding motion in the caliper (i.e. Pins, the notches where the brake pad goes, the back of the brake pad, the caliper pistons). No more noise, well, atleast for me and my 6-6 for about 4-5 months now, i would guess.

Bendix Ceramic brake pads & Permatex Ultra Brake Rotor lube. Replace existing pads with Bendix. During install, lube up the back plates and anywhere the is sliding motion in the caliper (i.e. Pins, the notches where the brake pad goes, the back of the brake pad, the caliper pistons). No more noise, well, atleast for me and my 6-6 for about 4-5 months now, i would guess.

Completed a complete rear brake change on my 08 Accord V6 Sedan a couple of weeks ago. Total cost for parts was $210 for both sides rear. I bought OEM V6 Rotors and Autozone Duralast Ceramic C-Max pads.

I used all the grease I had and greased up the back of the pads, as well as the parts where they slide back and forth on the rails of the metal clips. I also greased up the rubber boot on the caliper piston. It's important to clean the caliper piston liberally with brake cleaner and apply fresh grease on the boot to avoid pinching it as you turn the caliper piston clockwise to retract. Otherwise you end up pinching it, then you have to back it out and try again. The whole thing took me about 1 hour for one side. and 30 minutes for the other. I could do it in half the time now that i've done it. The hardest part was removing the Caliper bracket bolts. The lisle caliper piston tool worked well to retract the piston. I opened up the brake fluid resovoir cover when I retracted the piston.

The brakes are whisper quiet and bite like they are new again. All in all it was a fairly straight forward job. I hope the front is the same if not, easier.

Oh and my brake rotors were cut once by the dealer maybe 3-5 months ago, and it didn't last for more than 30 days before it started to vibrate again. I hate warped rotors!

Completed a complete rear brake change on my 08 Accord V6 Sedan a couple of weeks ago. Total cost for parts was $210 for both sides rear. I bought OEM V6 Rotors and Autozone Duralast Ceramic C-Max pads.

I used all the grease I had and greased up the back of the pads, as well as the parts where they slide back and forth on the rails of the metal clips. I also greased up the rubber boot on the caliper piston. It's important to clean the caliper piston liberally with brake cleaner and apply fresh grease on the boot to avoid pinching it as you turn the caliper piston clockwise to retract. Otherwise you end up pinching it, then you have to back it out and try again. The whole thing took me about 1 hour for one side. and 30 minutes for the other. I could do it in half the time now that i've done it. The hardest part was removing the Caliper bracket bolts. The lisle caliper piston tool worked well to retract the piston. I opened up the brake fluid resovoir cover when I retracted the piston.

The brakes are whisper quiet and bite like they are new again. All in all it was a fairly straight forward job. I hope the front is the same if not, easier.

Oh and my brake rotors were cut once by the dealer maybe 3-5 months ago, and it didn't last for more than 30 days before it started to vibrate again. I hate warped rotors!
The fronts will be a lot easier, no hand brake in the way and no need to screw piston in. Just push it in carefully with whatever you have (I normally push them in with old brake pads still in there an a pry bar between old pad an rotor).
Just make sure master cylinder is not to full and cap is off, if full it will spill over when you push in all front pistons.

My dealer replaced all 4 discs and pads about 4 weeks and 4000km ago under warranty (car was 14 months and 21000km old). All new parts were OEM. I don't know how much friction material was left on the original pads. Brakes are still quiet and very very smooth and have much more "bite" than they ever did. My squealing from was from only the front brakes. My pulsations when braking were from the rear brakes.